Two of my jets, plus the main return, became unplugged at some point during the last 6 weeks. The water level came up to the level of the plugs and then above it. The layer of ice at the top was pretty solid (at least 1-2 inches) and it seems to have push off the rubber plugs, which fell to the bottom. I drained the level back down earlier today but I am wondering what to do next? Should I just insert new plugs of should I be concerned about a need to blow the lines again (which will not be easy as its an ice mess out there). I do have extra plugs. On the good side, the lines were blown bone dry to start the winter. Some water may have gotten in, but not a lot. I can post photos tomorrow if helpful.

Good Morning fellow concrete swimmin' hole enthusiasts! My dear old frankenfilter has finally bit the dust and needs replacing. I went to Leslie's yesterday and an adorable child with no experience indeed could not help me find the appropriate replacement. He said I should call a technician but I am not a quitter and am here seeking advice because the wait time is 1+ weeks and my pool is turning greener every second.

The weathered piece of paper on the side of the tank says TA 60 - 60 D with an ambiguous punch between letters of the model. It's a top mount sand filter that I believe is a Pentair Tagelus 60 60d sand filter. I have an 18k gallon in ground pool in central Texas. I have the Pentair 2.2 VST pump. I only have one skimmer and one main drain.

Any suggestions on replacement models would be lovely. I really don't want to switch to a cartridge because of the maintenance frequency - I am cool with backwashing and setting/forgetting and just regular old sand has worked extremely well for my water quality.

Your advice would be much, much appreciated. Thank you so much!

When I received the TF-100 (salt) test kit it seemed a bit overwhelming with the various chems so wanted to share my experience and thoughts, having used it for the first time today. It all really does make sense. In my opinion the instructions can be written a little differently, but I am a linear thinker which I know is not everyone's style. Either way, I compiled a chart that made sense to me and wanted to share it in the event it would benefit other first time TF-100 users. I seem to be unable to upload the Excel version so people could modify it to serve their needs. Sorry about that.

• Before starting the testing I found it helpful to have a towel (to dry my hands after getting the pool samples), a paper towel (upon which to set all the test containers after rinsing them) and a pen/pencil. And reading glasses if you are of a certain age! I also grouped the chemicals into the tests for which they were needed.
• To take a sample from a foot below the surface keep the test container upside down when dunking it in the pool and then turn it right side up at about the foot under water mark, which will fill the container. Shake it to splash out the water down to the necessary level.
• Before getting started on the CYA test, the top of the mixing bottle dropper needs to be cut off with a sharp knife. Also, the R-0013 solution has a seal on the top which must be removed by unscrewing the cap.
• Mixing the chemicals is not quite like swirling a wine glass. I found swirling it while on a table worked best.
• It helped me to think about how many potential drops of chemicals I would estimate to be needed on the FC, TA, CH & Salt tests as the final result calculation is based on the number of drops to have the solution change color. For example, my FC was unusually high and used 32 drops. We aren't talking one or two, but would normally expect about 10. Be patient though when you believe you are getting close to the solution turning the necessary color. Swirl a little extra before adding the next drop.

It took me about an hour the first time going through the testing, taking my time to understand everything and ensure I was doing the tests correctly. I expect when I am more comfortable it will all take under 10 minutes from taking out the test kit to putting it away.

I hope this is in some way helpful to people getting started with the TF-100 test kit.

View attachment 491520

Hi all,
I have started to get the pool going due to increasing temps in SW OH and wanting to avoid mosquito problems.
It's a cartridge Voyager SwimPro with 175sq ft and a 1.5hp single speed Hayward/AO Smith pump. 115V available only.

Pump still runs, but it's a single speed. Wiring looks sketchy at this point and frame very rusted. Not really comfortable doing another season with it.
It's unfortunately a thru bolt 48. I would like to get a VS pump for the efficiency and noise aspects.

For above ground with thru bolt, virtually no replacement motors exist (the pump wet end is in great shape).
I think I'm stuck going with whole new pump. For above ground, the 2 seemingly (under $900) options are the Black&Decker and Doheny's.

B&D:

Doheny's

Which would you recommend?
Which sand filter size should I get (given that I want to ditch the cartridge due to PITA in cleaning)?

Thanks!

Hey all,

I became a pool owner last year and have quickly turned into a full-blown pool nerd — and a TFP evangelist.

With the size of our pool, I couldn’t help but feel like the flow was just too dang low.

I wanted to share my experience doing some pad-side plumbing upgrades this past week, since it was something I contemplated over and over.

Background:

• Pool size: 44×22 ft, 50,000+ gallons, 11.5-12 ft deep
• Pool age: Built in the ’60s or ’70s (hybrid pool: gunite/plaster floor with fiberglass walls — still hanging in there!)
• Underground plumbing:
  • 1.5” skimmer line — One skimmer for the whole pool. It's rough with how many trees we have. Betta SE has been helpful.
  • 1.5” main drain line
  • 1.5" return line going to two returns
  • (Now previously) unused 1.5" line that was a pressure-side vacuum with booster.
• Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo3 1.5 HP (2” union slip fit, 1.5" inside fit)
• Filter: Triton sand filter (not sure what the model is, the sticker is wearing off)
• Heater: Pentair MasterTemp 400
• Starting flow: ~35 GPM at 99% RPM. 39 GPM on a really, really good day.

What I Changed:​

• Suction side:
  • Installed Jandy 4715 3-way valve to combine the skimmer and main drain into a 2” trunk (previously 1.5"). This replaced two seized up, basic ball valves that I'm sure restricted flow.
• Return side:
  • Converted unused pressure-side vacuum line into a new dedicated 1.5” return
  • Added a second Jandy 4715 3-way to split the 2” return trunk into two 1.5” returns (existing and converted vacuum line)
  • Installed full-port Jandy BVSU015 1.5” ball valves on each return line (no room on suction).
• Other:
  • Re-plumbed all pad piping to 2” PVC (pump ➔ filter ➔ heater ➔ returns)
  • Installed a flow meter (H2Flow) on the return trunk

Preliminary Results:​

• Flow
  • 65–72 GPM at 99% RPM (60-70% improvement)
  • 35 GPM at 65% RPM
• Filter pressure dropped:
  • From ~20-22 psi ➔ ~14–15 psi at the same RPM
• Turnover time:
  • I'd be lucky if I could get the pool to turnover once in 24 hours. Now, I can turn it over almost twice in a day if running full-blast.
• Usability:
  • I can now control the flow of both suction and returns much more easily.

----

At this point, I'm still dialing in the new return port's eyeball and the return Jandy BVSU015's to try to get a nice circulation pattern.

Since I’m still a pool novice, I’m not here to blindly recommend this — just wanted to share my numbers and experience as a bit of a “science experiment.”

Please feel free to pick this apart and tell me where I went wrong or what I could improve. In the future, I would love to add a SWG and go cartridge to save some space and make future plumbing projects easier.

Hey folks,

I am opening the pool for the first time and obviously the topic of algae is something I keep seeing and it's various forms (Green, Yellow, Black, etc.). It made me wonder, how does one algae bloom over the other? Are the colour/types of algae different stages of the same organism? Why would a pool have green algae instead of black? Does black require certain environmental conditions different than green? If left alone, does green algae become black algae?

Hey all, I wanted to document detailed steps for ordering items from TFTestkits.net into Canada using Shippsy to handle the cross-border stuff. This is a follow-up to these instructions so big thanks to @MostlyCanuck (I had never heard of Shippsy)!

For cost, my TFTestkits.net order came to $200 USD ($ 254.00 CAD). The tax and Shippsy handling fee came to $41.00 CAD (so $295.00 CAD all said and done). No duty as it is manufactured in the US. This all took about 2 weeks from when I ordered, to when I picked up.

1. Create a Shippsy account and note the US address (and your "SHP#")
2. Place your order on TFTestkits.net:

• For shipping address, use the US address from Shippsy. The SHP# is very important. I put it in the "Company" field but I was advised "Address 2" would also work.
• For payment, I used PayPal because, as @MostlyCanuck noted, the website doesn't accept non-us credit cards.

3. Once your package is received at the US Shippsy warehouse (in Niagara Falls, NY). You'll get an email and need to fill in some tax/duty-related information:

• For Description, I used "Pool Test Kit"
• Select that it was manufactured in the US, you'll need to attach proof. I downloaded the SDS PDF for one of the reagents included in my kit from Taylor's website. I was advised by Shippsy this would be sufficient as it shows the US factory address. Attached to this post is the one I used.
• For Product Category, I chose Category: "Other", Sub-Category: "Other". NOTE: doing this almost gave me a heart attack as it shows the "estimated duty and tax" to be ~$6000! I was told by Shippsy, for "Other", they show the maximum. As you can see above, there was no duty and the tax ended up being ~$33 CAD.
• For the Invoice, upload the PDF version of the invoice from TFTestkits.net
• For Pickup Location, you can choose either Mississauga or Markham (there might have been a location in BC but I can't remember). I chose Mississauga (I live about an hour away).
• Submit!

4. Once your item arrives at the warehouse in Canada, you'll get a notification. You can either go pick it up yourself or have it mailed to your house. For my kit, it was going to cost ~$15 CAD to mail. I opted to pickup but with the price of gas, I likely spent more than that... Not to mention the headache of driving in the GTA. Next time I'll have it mailed.

That's it! Hopefully this helps someone. Feel free to hit me up with any questions/clarifications.

--Kevin

My first post here, I'm happy to have found this forum. I'm not exactly sure what is going on here so any help would be appreciated. I have pool lights and spa lights that trip the GFCI when the Jandy aqualink RS is in auto mode and the lights are scheduled to come on each night. The controller panel makes clicking sounds and the pool light and Spa light indicators on the controller panel flashes about 3 to 4 times then it trips the GFCI. When I put controller in Service Mode the lights turn on and off without issue from the controller panel, additionally they stay on without fault. Additionally, the lights when on, do not trip the GFCI in Service mode. The lights are less than 3 years old, they are LED Intellibrite 5G color.

️Any thoughts on trouble shooting?

️Does this have anything to with the relays/contactors?

️Do I possibly need a new Aqualink RS Controller panel?

️If I need a new Controller panel, are all the replacement RS controllers the same?

Comments, questions, appreciated. Thank you!

Hello everyone.

I won't pretend to know anything about fluid dynamics or whatever, so I figured I'd ask here.

My pump is currently plumbed like this:

In order to get enough suction to my Hayward The PoolCleaner to get to ~11rpm, I need to turn the 3 way valve to like 4:30-5:00, blocking off most of the flow to the skimmer and main drain. What happens when I do this though, is it appears that the negative pressure actually seems to cause the water to start degassing. It gets loud and I see a lot of bubbles forming in the pump basket cover.

I'm wondering if 1.5" pipe is just too small for the way it's plumbed here, and if perhaps setting it up like this would may any difference at all:


Like I said, I know nothing about this kind of stuff, but I feel like logically this just makes sense to me.

Thank You!

TL;DR
I can't for the life of me keep my FC up in my 12,000 gallon. Used to use tablets causing skyrocketing CYA. Just balanced everything best I could, and installed a SWCG rated for 25,000g, still waking up with 0 FC in the morning.

Hello TFP.

This is my first time here, but I probably should have joined a long time ago, and maybe saved myself a lot of headaches.

It's going to take a decent amount of history and details to fully describe my issues, so please bear with me.

My family and I moved into our house near Datyona, FL, with a 12,000 gallon inground plaster pool, in late 2019. The pool is screened in, but has two very large trees directly above the screen, which certainly contribute to my issues. We have well water, so I assume the original fill(s) were from the well, and the 2 subsequent refills since I've had it were also from the well, more on that later. The filter is a 36sqft Hayward DE filter. The pump used to be an older 1.0HP Hayward, but I upgraded to a 1.5HP Super II.

For the first ~3 years everything was fine. I would throw 2 tablets a week into the inline dispenser, test regularly with a Taylor K-2005, and balance as necessary.

Now, to when the issues started...

The first time the pool went totally green was a combination of equipment failure, and neglect. Around winter time, probably 2022, can't remember exactly, the old Hayward pump broke down. Now, my wife, bless her soul, told me not to worry about it right away, that her grandfather used to let their pool turn completely green over the winter, and always got it back up for summer. Unfortunately... that's exactly what I did. I put off replacing the pump right away, and let it turn into a swamp. Come spring time, I bought and plumbed in the Super II pump, and began the process of trying to get the pool back to swimmable conditions. That went about as good as you'd expect, so eventually I just drained it and refilled it, everything was "normal" again for several months.

Fast forward to fall 2023. I was hospitalized, had surgery, and was out of commission for a few months. The pool turned into a swamp once more, and when I was back on my feet, I drained and refilled it... again...

As before, things were "ok" for a couple months, but then the real problems seemed to start. I was using more and more chlorine tablets, eventually getting up to 5 a week, but I always seemed to have 0 free chlorine. I would shock with liquid chlorine, and every other type of shock you can imagine, and even with 5 tablets in the dispenser, I'd have 0 FC a couple days later. It was about this time that I learned that tablets contained CYA, which I did not know. After refilling, I added enough CYA to get to ~40ppm, and having put 5 tablets in per week, my CYA was off the charts. I'm assuming this was causing it to have extremely low effectiveness.

Fast forward once more to October 2024. We're on vacation in Nashville when hurricane Milton hits. Thankfully we didn't have much damage, but upon returning, the pool was pretty green, especially from all the rain filtering down through the trees and debris on the screen. I realized the next day that the filter wasn't turning on, and found that the breaker had tripped. I visually inspected the pump, which looked fine, turned the breaker on, and the motor immediately exploded, shooting sparks 10 feet in every direction. I thought, not that big of a deal, stuff happens, and ordered a new motor.

It took over a week to get the new motor, so I was just pouring liquid chlorine and algaecide in as much as possible and stirring it up, but it stayed pretty green. Once I installed the motor, I shocked it with like 10 gal of LC, used drop-out flocculant, let it sit another week, then vacuumed all the sludge to waste. I started running the DE filter again, changing DE several times over the course of the day, and was making progress, until... I looked out the window and noticed the water level had dropped a foot. Three of the brass lugs where the motor connects to the pump housing had pulled out, and water was just spraying everywhere. Admittedly, this was my fault, I probably overtightened them and weakened the bond. So now I had to wait for a new pump housing. I also didn't have enough room to work with the pipes glued into the select-a-flow valve, so had to order a new one of those too. Of course, between waiting for all these parts and having the time to do the work, it got green again. I shocked, flocc'd, vacc'd, and got everything back to "normal" once more. This time though, I was dosing LC instead of tablets.

After replacing ALL of this equipment, and doing all this work, I decided that I wanted to convert to saltwater, in hopes that it would be easier, and I ordered a CircuPool Edge 25. I balanced everything to the manufacturer's specs, with the exception of TA which was at 160, and installed the SWCG on Friday, 4/25.

Before turning on the SWG my levels were as follows:
FC 3
CC No discernable difference
pH 7.6
TA 160
CH 380
Salt 3500
CYA 40
Borate 25

I set the chlorine level right in the middle to see how that would go, and ran it all day Saturday, 8 hrs. Unfortunately, I was unable to test Saturday evening, but on Sunday morning, my FC was 0, and CC was barely any different. I am pretty sure it is generating chlorine, because the cell is clear and I can see gasses coming off the titanium plates. Yesterday, I ran it on boost mode for the entire 8 hours, and in the evening FC was 0, and CC again was different, but barely.

Absolutely flabbergasted as to how this was happening, I thought it HAD to be something that required super chlorination. I threw in a bag of cal-hypo AND a gallon of 10% LC last night. That should have been enough to bring the FC to at least 20+. I also wanted to bring down my TA and raise my CYA, so I added 32oz of muriatic acid and 1.5lb of CYA granules.

This morning, less than 8 hours after adding all that chlorine, my levels were:
FC 3
CC 5
pH 7.2
TA 150
CYA still ~40 but ofc it dissolves slow
others same as above.

I should also mention that I took a sample to Leslie's and, per their test, I have no phosphates, 0.1ppm iron, and 0.2ppm copper. I got one of those CuLator metal absorbing packets and stuck it in my skimmer basket.

What could possibly be going on to make the chlorine disappear so fast. The water is clear, there's no visible algae, no excess debris. How can I be sure the SWCG is working properly?

I'm really lost here.

I don't know what to try next.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, and I'm sorry for rambling for so long.

After searching the forums, could not find what I was looking for that was current.

My Jandy SWG got the dreaded 125/194 codes. Performed the acid wash, unit looks clean but sill throws errors. Guess I need to replace it. I looked on Amazon and see a direct replacement for $985. I was wondering if anyone else has had luck finding it at a lower price point.

Appreciate the help from this awesome group.

Got the pool up and running for season and all looked good when running. Held pressure and initially saw a leak at the fittings for the SWG but that was tightened and all good.

This morning before pump kicked on the reservoir was empty so I know there has to be a leak somewhere. Took about 15 seconds to fill the pump and run then I started to see water dripping from underneath motor and reservoir in the picture here. After it’s running it dries up and there is no active leak. So is this a seal inside with the motor? Is it a simple fix or should I just have a pool guy address it (I don’t want to make a bigger problem)?

I’m using version 510 of the app on an iPhone iOS 18.4.1

I renewed my subscription yesterday—App was working fine. Today, I went to log test results, entered the numbers, hit “done”. But when I hit the in the upper right corner, I get this error message

I “tried again in a bit” but got the same error. Also logged out and logged back in but, again, same error.
Any suggestions?

Opened a pool two weeks ago. The pool is fiberglass with a sand filter its only two years old and holds 20k gallons. The pool water was extremely green when I opened the pool, dark green. I have shocked the pool twice with cal-hypo which got rid of algae and green color, but now the water is cloudy and there is white dust on the shallow end steps. You can see shallow end bottom but not the deep end. Please help

Members frequently ask "Where is the best place to buy liquid chlorine where I live?"

This thread is an attempt to consolidate all of the places you know of in your town so others can share in your good deal.

If you know a place that has a good deal on liquid chlorine, whether it is a pool store, janitorial supplier or whatever, reply to this thread with the name of the business, the details including price, concentration and quantity, and we'll add it to this list.

US Wide:

Walmart: $2.94 for 121oz of 8.25%. 29.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.
Sams Club: $9.47 for 3 count 121oz of 8.25%. 31.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.
Aldi's: ????

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Alabama

Mobile: Pinch-A-Penny 2.5 gal refillable (10.5%) $8.99 initial, $6.08 refill ... 18.1 cents/oz of sodium hypochlorite

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Alaska

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Arizona

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Tucson: E-Konomy Pool, 4912 E 22nd St, Refillable 4 gallons of 12% for $13.96 = 22.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.

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Arkansas

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California

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

San Rafael/Petaluma: Herb's Pool Service Refillable 4 gallons of 12.5% for $17.32. 27.1 cents/oz. of sodium hypochlorite

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Colorado

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Connecticut

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Delaware

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Florida

Orlando: Pinch a Penny and Leslie's refillable 2.5 gallons of 10% for $5 after tax. 15.6 cents/oz. of sodium hypochlorite

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Georgia

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Hawaii

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Idaho

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Idaho: Fred Meyer has their 8.25% 121 oz jugs on sale for $2.69. 26.9 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.

---

Illinois

Rural King stores: $9.99 for 4 gallons of 10%. Frequently on sale for $7.99 and even $6.99 around Memorial Day. 19.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $9.99. 15.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $7.99. 13.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $6.99.

---

Indiana

Rural King stores: $9.99 for 4 gallons of 10%. Frequently on sale for $7.99 and even $6.99 around Memorial Day. 19.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $9.99. 15.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $7.99. 13.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $6.99.

Menards: $3.99 for one gallon of 12%. 26 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite. On sale around Memorial Day as BOGO making it 13 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.

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Iowa

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Kansas

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Kentucky

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Louisiana

---

Maine

---

Maryland

---

Massachusetts

---

Michigan

---

Minnesota

---

Mississippi

---

Missouri

---

Montana

---

Nebraska

---

Nevada

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New Hampshire

---

New Jersey

---

New Mexico

---

New York

---

North Carolina

Raleigh: MVP Services, 5813 Triangle Dr $13.50 for 5 gallons. of 12%. 17.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.

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North Dakota

---

Ohio

---

Oklahoma

---

Oregon

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

---

Pennsylvania

---

Rhode Island

---

South Carolina

---

South Dakota

---

Tennessee

---

Texas

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Dallas: Riviera Pools 12.6% HASA Chlorine for $22 for 4 gallons. 34.1 cents per gallon of sodium hypochlorite.

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Utah

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Vermont

---

Virginia

---

Washington

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

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West Virginia

---

Wisconsin

---

Wyoming

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Anybody have a good source for a deal on an IC40? Mine appears to be dead, shows 80% life, but the service cell light is blinking. I did the acid cleaning but that did not seem to do anything. The unit is 6 years old, so unless anyone knows any tricks, Im hunting for a replacement. Ebay has the older/original model for about $1100 and mine always worked great, so upgrading to the new model doesn't really solve anything for me and Id rather save the $$.

My wife wants me to open the pool early so she has something nice to look at while sitting on the pool deck. Usually I open end of April (based on water temp). Thinking of doing it next weekend. I think the freezing temps are over and even if not, it will barely get to 32. Freeze protect will handle it. No heater just open the pool and get the water circulating for aesthetics.

Open or no?

I have an IC40 that seems to only operate at 100%. Even when output is adjusted it continues to produce the most chlorine possible. As a result the salt is running out quickly as well. Any ideas on how to handle this? It is controlled by an easytouch.

Last week I tested my calcium hardness and the result was 307. I could be mistaken, but I think the Pool Math app told me that level was fine when I entered it. Now it’s a week later and I’ve added some other updated results (TA went down by 20), and the app is telling me the calcium hardness is too low. It is recommending 450 (ideal range 350-550 and safe range up to 650!)

The app recommendation seems quite high when I see other places online recommend for it to be between 200 and 400 for a plaster pool.

What is causing this high CH recommendation and can I trust it?

My pool pump took a dump and I am need of a replacement. I am needing some help trying to figure out what pump to get. I am not trying to break the bank with a $1000 pump. Here is my current setup:

-40,000 galloon saltwater pool

-Hayward SwimPure Plus SWP15 salt chlorinator

-Hayward Pro Series 30" sand filter Model S310S

-Current pump is Hayward SS 1.1HP 230V HST110 motor

I was looking at these pumps from Aquastrong, either the SS:

Amazon.com

or the VS: Amazon.com

However, after doing a bit a research, I think they may have too high of a flow rate. I am calculating that I can max at 98GPM due to the filter, and then 73GPM since I have 2" pipes. Am I correct on this? Looking for some tips!

as the title says my FC is 30 (started out high when I closed and still 30 when I opened a few days ago) and water temp is cold, 65-70F how valid are other tests?

My Ph is 7.2 to 6.8 after a few days of testing. High FC mean Ph test is not valid?
CYA is 50
TA is off the charts. last fall was in 80's now 300. Is the test valid?

I'm leaving the auto cover open for our 70's sunny days trying to burn off the FC and the SWG has not been turned on yet.
I assume without pool use and cool cloudy days it will take some time to get the FC back down below 10?

Having some issues on intex above ground pool buckling/bowling in. What's probably the cause

Greetings!
Last Fall (2024), I received a used SX2800 Sand Filter and Pump from a friend who was moving. She hadn't used it since Fall 2023.

I want to test the pump before purchasing sand and filling the sand filter. My question...can I bypass the sand filter and directly connect the pump to the pool using the corresponding outlet and inlet connections to the pool. Will that damage the pump in any way?

Pool water is clean and balanced. Pool is covered with solar cover, so minimal debris.
Thanks!!

I would like to use this as a pool-safe perimeter fence and am wondering what I'm up against. This would allow me to tear down a smaller wrought iron fence that is closer to the pool.

Reading city codes, I'm not seeing anything to rule this out, but I think I need to:

1. Raise the latches to 60" off the ground
2. Install springs to make them self-closing

Does that sound right? First priority is safety, but secondary I would like it to be able to pass inspection if we sell the home someday.

Here are my results while opening the pool.

The pool company came to open it. They put some CalHypo in it (shock).



These are my results after testing with the Taylor kit.

I decided to treat the pool by myself (pool company was saying never put liquid chlorine) but I trust TFP most.

I was thinking of balancing pH before and putting a bit of CYA (no clue what the actual CYA is, water is a bit cloudy once the water is at the 30 mark on the taylor kit, it was 30 before closing).

I guess putting the pH down will take care of the TA.

So once pH and CYA are in line, I would slam the pool because it is cloudy.

The pH was 8 or over (can't know exactly) and the acid demand tests was 7 drops (so for my 5000 gallons Taylor says 1qt (1L) of 20 baume muriatic acid)

here are photos of the pool yesterday (before opening) and today


I have scrubed, vacuumed and cleaned the filters.

Recent test results:

FC - .4 CC - .2 PH - 6.8 TA - 250 CH - 270 CYA - 40

That was about 4pm yesterday. I aerated the pool and brought the pH up to 7.6 when I checked it at 9pm. I poured the recommended amount of muriatic acid before bed, then aerated again early in the morning. pH was 7.4 this morning. This afternoon it had dropped to below 7 again.

I’m trying to get my TA down but I don’t understand why the pH would be dropping over time instead of raising.

The chlorine is another issue. I’m going through gallons of the stuff weekly. I guess it’s fighting algae and I plan on doing the SLAM soon, I just haven’t had a chance yet. I think I need to bring my CYA up as well because the pool gets a lot of direct sunlight.

Any pointers?

Trouble Free Pool Method Only! IS THIS CORRECT!
Starting the Slam Process on a 16x36ft. 3-8 ft depth with 5ft average. Approx 22,000 gallons correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Taylor K2006C test kit.
FC-0
CYA-0
PH-8+(unknown how high shooting for 7.2)
TA 120(shooting for 80)
CH-0
Ready to start the SLAM.
STEPS
1.Lower PH to 7.2(which will lower TA also)
2.CYA to 40-50
3.SLAM WITH 10% POOL BLEACH.

Getting ready for the 30 day mark after our plaster install last month. I will be adding salt the first week of May to our new pool I just built

Couple questions below regarding the first step of adding salt and maintenance to Pentair IC-15….

-The IC-15 should be set on a timer to correspond with the pump timer. Essentially, the IC-15 should only be powered on and “running” when the pump is running? Correct? I have a separate timer for the IC-15 that is on the same schedule as the built in pump timer

-How frequently should I be dissembling this thing and cleaning it out for maintenance? Is that a fairly easy task?

-Is there any specific math or calculation to know how much exact salt I should be adding to my 3,000 gallon pool? Are you essentially adding more every season/multiple times a season? Or is a once and done per year

-Will the PH level become sporadic again after adding salt? My plaster is 3 weeks cured right now and it seems that the PH level is just starting to become level and even day to day with minimal acid need

Hey all,

I have a cabin in the woods. Off grid. very wooded and shaded.

Would love to have a stock pool but it is a little tricky since no power or water. 6ft poly round. Let me know if this will work -

Since I am only there every other weekend I will need to set this to work while I am gone: I will set it to catch rain run off my metal roof (I do this for my non drinking water for 15 years). I'll have it go through a filter and I will put a chlorine tab in it to make sure it comes into the stock tank clean and chloroinzed. I will keep the tank completely covered so nothing can get in and no light can enter as well. I will set up a solar powered pond pump to create some water movement in the tank during day time to prevent stagnation. Only during day time will it move the water.

Next when I come there, and assuming it will be full, I will run a sand filter and UV filter as well as adjust the chlorine level of the water

I will let this run for 3 hours or so. I then think I can use it. Right? I will run it every day while I am there for 3 hours on the sand filter and uv filter.

Then before leaving I will raise the chlorine level to be on the higher side, put in a chlorine floater, and set up the solar pump again. I won't let any rain run off to go in again and keep it covered really well to prevent anything falling in or light getting in there.

When I get back a week or so later I will repeat the process of the sand filter and uv.

I will empty it before winter.

Please let me know if this should work.

Uri