Hello all! New to pool ownership here. Tested water this morning with my new TF Pro kit and am confident in my results. I need to make an adjustment to my Chlorine levels. In the Pool Math app when I click on Free Chlorine in the overview to get my recommendation I change the Ch % to 10.5% from 6.0% that the app defaults to, when I do that the recommended amount changes accordingly as expected. When I log the addition, it seems like the app defaults back to the 6.0% concentration as the amount shown has increased to what the 6.0% amount was before I changed it. Does anyone else experience the same?

Hi Everyone,
I am new here but have owned an above ground pool for approx. 12yrs, it is an 18' round W/54'' wall approx. 8,500 gal. I am on my second pool in that time frame, my original pool had a Frog system and the new pool I was talked into an oxygen pools system. I wish I would have seen this forum before I made that decision. I have a few questions regarding the TFP method, first how does it work? Two what equipment is needed? Is there a chemical feeder or is it just the pump, filter and pour chemicals in the pool weekly or daily? I am a little confused on how this works coming from a frog system and going into this oxygen system which I am regretting. Appreciate any all help on this.

I have a Jandy Jxi heater at a home that will be used as an occasional short term rental. If the pool needs to be heated, the management company will utilize Aqualink (or physical access if required).

I'd like to prevent guests from accessing the physical heater controls. Has anyone seen a physical lock solution to lock the heater control panel?


I see Hayward has one for their heaters, but I haven't been able to find anything similar for Jandy.

Hey everyone, just saying hi from Canada. I've had the bestway aboveground pool over the last couple years but had a maybe not so smart idea. I had my house for sale but couldn't find anything that really was worth the move. So I decided to take it off the market and instead of pay $30,000 in realtor/lawyer fees I'd put that towards an inground heated pool. I plan on installing it close to my house and getting a gazebo built at the back of the house over the pool so I can eventually insulate it and have a pool year round.

I am going to do what work I can and then hire help for what I can't. All electrical and gas will be done by the pros And cleared by my municipality, so don't think I am taking short cuts that way.

So here I am, I have already had the "check before you dig" people clear it so I can dig. I have a guy available to come dig once I have the pool available to start. I'm planning on a 14x28 lined pool from poolsuppliescanada.

The main project I plan on trying to tackle myself is the pool installation, which is why I will depend on the instructions and possibly this forum. I'm just thinking out loud here but the nost daunting part of that for me is the concrete part, i mean i dont want to make it not deep enough and have wrinkles, or obviously dont want it too deep, but i might be getting ahead of myself. And I know this will be a summer long project likely even into the fall.

Talk me out of it if you think this isn't smart. Keep in mind winters can hit -35C here so it would have to be well insulated.

New member Northeastern PA.

I set up an 18' vinyl AGP in March and have been taking care of it with the help of pool school and the calculator. It's been pretty easy so far. Problem is, I get an itchy rash whenever I swim. Mostly on my face/neck/chest.
I did a shock and level a few days ago, just in case I had some funk growing, and brushed and scrubbed everything real good.

After swimming today... itchy again.
FC: 5
CC: 0
pH: 7.4
TA: 140
CYA: 50

I do rinse when I get out. I do not react this way to my tap water/shower (3-4ppm monochloramine!). It has to be something with the pool... or maybe it's just a heat/sun rash? Water is about 90 right now. I wear a big brimmed hat and a rash guard though. Thoughts?

Another newbie question
I had my pavers power washed and sanded sealed witj
polymetric sand And there is sand in the bottom of the pool that my robot can't pick up.

Does that sand get sucked into the main drain and into the filter?

I have a Jandy RS system (I think it’s a 4 but I can’t tell). I want to add a stenner pump. I have 2 relays which aren’t in use but I believe those two relays are only controllable via the filter or AUX1 pump (today the filter and aux1 are unused because I have variable speed pumps). The third and fourth relays are for the lights and blower fan.

Another problem I see is that that breaker sub panel is fully populated and used (a few of the circuits are connected to my outdoor kitchen). Any suggestions on how to set this up? The unfortunate thing there is no breaker or outlets near the equipment so anything would have to be branched off the circuits.

The other challenge I see is finding a place to inject the chlorine off the filter pump. They left no room to add a T anywhere in the layout. On the Aux pump I could add a 2.5” T and then a 1” to 1/4 reducer to inject.

Thoughts on all of this?

Hello

Hello so shocked the Pool And it immediately turned brown which means I have iron in water so we rigged up a 5 gal bucket with polyfil to filter it out but after 2 days it’s still brown. Should I add iron out to it?

Greetings from coastal NC, everyone!

Good morning all,
I believe I have a small to medium sized suction-side leak that is drawing air into the pump and filter (Jacuzzi cartridge style). It has already destroyed 1 older style pump that did not have an auto-shutoff feature, when it ran dry overnight and burned out. I have leak tested all of the above-ground plumbing (bubbles and also radiator dye) and there is no evidence of leak.

If I left the purge/vent at the top of the filter open to continuously leak a small amount of air, would this be a reasonable temporary solution until I can locate and repair the suction-side leak? Or is this insane?

Thank you in advance for any guidance you can provide.

Hi all,

after (too) many SLAMs over the past 1.5 years I think I have established that the SLVS that's installed on my pool is the culprit...
(previous post on the topic, just as background: Pipe in my yard - no idea what it's for)

As I'm again going through a SLAM, I've looked again at this SLVS and I have established that the water in that pipe is most definitely stagnant - I took some of it from the open pipe (about 24 inches down) and tested it for chlorine (FAS-DPD): there was absolutely none in it. The water was dirty as well, like soil got into it...

So, I switched off the pump, opened the filter (cartridge), drained all the water and put everything back together. I then watched the content of that pipe while I remotely (from the app on my phone) switched the pump back on and saw that while the pump was priming it basically sucked out all the water from the pipe. Once it was primed and started running at normal speed, the water returned to the pipe. I repeated this exact thing a few times more, this time also closing the valves of the robot and the skimmer and could see the dirty water ending up in my pump.

So I believe that every time the pump has to prime or a vacuum-like event happens (like I had recently when the hose for the suction vacuum robot was disconnected and that suction port closed quite abruptly) it's pulling in that and may very well be causing the cloudy-ness of my pool once it gets mixed back in with the main pool water... It's not impossible that my variable speed pump is much more powerful than the pump that was originally there and the change in the valve layout (the original pool didn't have a suction valve for the robot), is making this SLVS inadequate.

So, to my question: as I have 2 main drains, I don't see the need for this SLVS (they don't put them in new pools anymore in FL) so I want to suppress / disable this thing all together. Now, as I'm not an expert, I was hoping if anybody here could give me a pointer as to how to do this? I mean, I know I'll need to cement a PVC cap on the pipe but is there anything else I need to think of? Can I do it just below ground level or should I try to go deeper (though it may cause the pipe to overflow if I go below the pool water level)?

Thanks,
B.

Pulled the cover off to a mess for the first time in a very long time. Pool floor was visible all the way to the deep end but after adding "shock" (Sams club Dichlor) pool has gone to zero visibility with the pump running for over 36 hours at this point.. The basic test kit I have shows a high level of chlorine and lower ph 6.8-7.0 for what that is worth. Can't test for CYA until I get my new TF-Pro kit hopefully Thursday or Friday. My question is what should I do at this point while awaiting test kit? I'm familiar with SLAM but asking for help so I don't just dump more money into chemicals. I have 16 gallons of LC ready to start but thought I should wait until I have further results. Thanks

Opened pool 3 weeks ago and can't get numbers to stabilize. This is our first full year with pool so we're also still learning. Since opening we've only had 3 days when pH was normal, the other days it's been at a minimum or low. Our calcium has been very low (18) but we've been able to raise it. Now the FC is .5. Yesterday we added 7 cups of liquid chlorine. It's still .5. We added another 9 cups today and it's still .5. Pool math says to add another 6 cups.

Also the last 3 days we've put 2 lbs. per day of pool shock in. Suggestions please. Thank you!

15,000 gal chlorine fiberglass. Tested with Taylor TF-Pro kit. Use chlorine pucks. Auto cover.
CL .5
FC .5
pH 7.2
Calcium 200
Alk 120
CYA 40

Help,
I have a pool that i cleared in April looked perfect. The pool owner pool a pol RX in the filter. The copper started to sky rocket ro over 1ppm. I have dosed the pool 3 times with metal out. The pool water started to have a green tinge. Not algae bit the copper and chlorine started reacting to make the pool have a green tint. It kept getting worse and worse to over 1.7 on copper. More metal out and then it started clouding. I added floc let is sit 48 hours it looks like milk. More floc milk again. I added clarifier and started trying to run through fliter to hopefully clear the flock and cloudyness. Nothing is working it’s still milky white and i am at a loss. Any help will be appreciated. I have adjust PH from 7.2 to 7.7 nothing chlorine from 5.5 down to .5. Alkalinity from 80 to 160 and back down. Hardness is low at 150. CYA is 20. Please give me a plan.

11 volts at the cord. Also has a 121 code. It’s a 3 port. How do I test this thing? Continuity through the cell? Seems like 11 volts is low. Suggestions before I spend a grand?

Hi everyone - Needing some wisdom from the group. At the end of last season our Intellichlor 40 somehow got stuck on 100% output and the flow sensor died. This Spring I replaced the flow sensor, now the diagnostic mode on the the 40 shows all green but I can't adjust the output using the +/- or Boost buttons. I searched the forum for similar situations but they all tie back to a malfunction with an automation system, which we don't have. Equipment pics attached

Is it possible my control center suddenly thinks an automation system is connected and thus the +/- lockout? And if so, anyway to bypass or deactivate that mode? I've checked the manuals for the 40 and the power center but I'm not seeing any obvious solutions. Any other scenarios or solutions i should consider? Thanks in advance!!!

Not sure if it matters but diagnostic shows the chlor40 is at 60% of it's lifespan.

Currently it's a juggling act of connecting and disconnecting the chlorinator every day so i don't over-chlorinate while keeping the pump/filter running.

Thanks!

Just learned about this site today. I found the responses to be thoughtful and informed, so I thought I would ask for help. Opened pool over weekend. Above-ground, 28 foot round pool. Sta-Rite motor, Raypack heater, and Pentair filter. (I put specs at bottom).Thought everything was a go for last week’s after-school visit with 2 of my 10-year-old daughter’s friends. She was so excited. Telling me how to arrange deck furniture; reminded me to start heating the pool early, so it was not freezing; helped me clean deck.

It did not go well.As you can guess, the pool was freezing. Motor keeps going on and off and heater seems to be working but water not getting hot. My other 2 kids want to have friends over. We moved here to have a pool. It’s been frustrating. Appreciate any advice and apologies for long post.

Background: Moved into house 3 years ago. Experience with pool companies opening and closing have been terrible. HEATER: First year, company broke heater…on and on. So, I’m learning on the fly. Spent all day last week thoroughly cleaning 3 year-old heater; disassembled it including cleaning heat exchanger. It’s rusting — don’t know if normal. Last year, had to have part replaced(I can’t recall) on heater; but I remember the technician saying it’s not a great heater. Pool company paid for some of it since they broke it. MOTOR: Inherited motor. Last year, motor started cycling on and off but eventually seemed to work at end of summer. Tech looked at it and did something with reset mechanism inside. It gets really hot. My electric bill tripled in the summer. FILTER: Got a new filter cartridge 2 years ago. Pool company said that filter system is old but I can’t trust what they say given the experience I have had with them.

ELECTRICAL: I am wondering if electrical is good. I tested GCFI receptacle, where heater is plugged into, and it’s good. I have a 3-prong outlet for motor. I have a dedicated double 20amp GCFI circuit breaker. Motor bonded via wire going into the soil that’s presumably connected to grounding rod or running underground to house’s ground. Heater not bonded nor any parts of pool; handrails of steps are metal (aluminum.) I had an electrician upgrade house electrical main and sub panel when we moved in but I am questioning competency as I learn more about electrical. The GFCI breaker for pool seems loose in panel. And it tripped last week when I was cleaning heater. Has not tripped in last several days but motor goes on and off randomly. It gets really hot. Maybe motor is somehow connected to timer for lights in front of house (I don’t think so but don’t want to leave any detail out). Previous owners did not mention any safety problems.

Where to start? Is the pool safe? I was told to make sure GFCI works? Yes, it does. It concerns me that metal around pool not bonded. No overhead power lines, lights - nothing. To my knowledge, no underground wiring under pool nor close to pool other motor ask spun With new motor, maybe heater will work? Filter is old but seems to work, and therefore last priority? Of course, calling a professional is warranted but I have not had good experiences and have spent thousands so far with limited results. So, I am trying to educate myself before calling anyone. Thanks for your patience and any advice.

SOLAR COVER: And the solar cover we inherited ripped apart 2 days ago. I am looking at this one but do not know anything about covers. https://www.amazon.com/Dohenys-Micr...6b9-83b7-70d75d3c468c&pd_rd_i=B086679GCW&th=1








Raypak®


POOL HEATER
Model P-R156A-EN-C
A Rheem Company
Serial 200125739
Model P-R156A-EN-C
BTU/HR. INPUT/0-1999
MIN: THERMAL EFFICIENCY
ANS: 221.56*CSA 4.7-2014
82 PERCENT
BTU/HR. OUTPUT/150,000
-OFIFICE DIMS/123,000











Sta-Rite Motor # CA8M2A24BY
Pump Model MoJWPS5YG7L-A®
HP 2
SPL - .16
5450/1725RPM 8.F.1:0


MaxAmps 16.0/3.8


115V


8042 1PH 1.51.12kN































Filter


Pentair


Pool


S5YG7L - A1


JR 3PL2SP HD


4016109070070M


20170351


Serial 02211007805RK

Redoing the whole pool system. Pentair Intelliflow3, Pentair IC40 and Intelliflow PH. Keeping Stay-rite DE48 filter. I see mention of prefilters. I'm located in Fl and my DE filter is a good size for my small pool. Just wondering if this is worth it to reduce maint. on the DE.

Good Morning! I have a inground 16x32 rectangle pool built on a piece of flat land with an adjacent slope. There is a puddle of water that started about 5 weeks ago on the down slope of the yard. The pool water level decreases at pump rpm at 1500 to around the second screw on the skimmer plate. When the pump rpm increases to 3000, the pool water level increases in between the second and third screw on the skimmer. When I turned off the pump, the water level dropped below the second screw on the skimmer plate and stayed at that point overnight. A leak specialist came out and added a cutoff valve in the french drain/skimmer valve line because he stated the original valve was leaking through. He did isolate all the plumbing and nothing leaked down. The yard still has water standing and the water level is still dropping. Help?

Hi, I have a 4 year old Diamondbrite Quartz Plaster gunite pool that I was preparing to open for the season in the Northeast (PA). I dont have the exact numbers, but I know the water chemistry was good when I closed the pool last October. When I peeled back the solid cover yesterday however I noticed the entire pool (walls and floor) were covered in these calcium growths... crystals, or scale. I did alot of research on this forum and just wanted some help and confirmation on the path forward here.
Attached are a couple pics.
Once I fully open the pool later this week I will get exact water chemistry results, but the quick test I did last night revealed a high PH (8.5 or higher) and low calcium (around 100). Which makes me think the plaster was leaching calcium vs the water being oversaturated with calcium.
I had some diamond scrubbing pads and was able to scratch off the calcium in a couple test spots, but was hoping there was a chemical way to remove the calcium as well, or at least soften it up. I'm hoping it won't come to a drain and grinder. Do I have hope here.. balance the water, add a descaler, and brush and brush?
Thanks for any help in advance.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53690352953_4fc5ec00af_n.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53690490154_f703d6bd37_n.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53690352958_ee86fe531b_n.jpg


Craig

Seems to be the best price I could find on the internet for calcium hardness increaser. If no red flags, I'll order it and report back.

I have been unable to purchase "Diamond Crystal Solar Naturals" locally. I was burned several years ago using Clorox Pool Salt as it stained my liner. Several years ago I switched to Diamond Crystal in the blue bag and have been very happy using it. I don't want problems by trying another brand. Lowe's and Home Depot both carry SureSoft. Has anyone had any problems using it?
Many thanks, Christine

Not sure which forum area this would fall into. I have been dealing with a lot of issues this year. Anyway, I have been using filter socks to try and help catch stuff before DE filter. Anyway changing out the skimmer sock today I noticed these white like rice bugs? Any help on what they are and how to get rid of them would be greatly appreciated.

Or more accurately a problem with the drain cover installed when we put in a new liner last year. The Dolphin Premier cleaner I bought a year and a half ago gets stuck when trying to traverse the drain. Solution anyone?

My pool plaster is about 8 weeks old now, see my other thread on 28 day startup I followed. About 10 days back I introduced the Polaris cleaner. Now I'm seeing some plaster specks in the deep end and robot is picking them up in every run (I can see blue stonescape tiny pebbles in it). Is that normal during initial months or am I doing something wrong?
PoolMath logs has full history since day 1, CSI has stayed mostly around 0 or slightly positive.

Hi, I had a large pine tree that fell over this winter and the very top of it fell into my pool. We were able to get it out but a few small branches stayed in there. The only damage was a cap on one of the uprights. we also had a return line that was leaking a bit (before we even closed it last year)So I’ve been waiting to get this fixed. Of course in two days the heat turned the green water to brown. Should I drain the pool or should I use chemicals to try to fix it. It is a 21‘54 inch above ground currently the water level is about two level 2 inches below the return.

Hi all! This is my first post on TFP, I was referred by a few friends.

The wife and I purchased a home over the winter with a pool, so now I'm delving into the world of pool maintenance! I'm pretty proud of myself for getting this once green and leaf infested pool to where it is today, but it seems there's still some work to do. I did purchase the TFT-Pro test kit so without further ado, here are my latest test results:

• pH: 8.2
• TA: 120
• CH: 700
• FC: 1
• CC: 0.5
• TC: 1.5
• CYA: maybe 10?

I'm working with a 24' round above ground pool, so it's vinyl. I'd guesstimate that the total volume is roughly 13,500 gallons. I've been running the pump a lot recently, which uses a 150 sq ft cartridge filter. Have had to do fairly frequent changes as it was filtering a lot of the finer debris out of the water, but at this point it can be run for days on end without affecting the PSI and the water is looking just about crystal clear.

I'm excited to continue learning and ditch any reliance on the local pool store.. Though they don't seem too bad, but still, who doesn't like saving some money!

One other thing I'm curious about, and been advised by said pool store, that CYA never leaves the water. Does it 'reactivate' as the gentleman at the pool store said? If that were the case, I'd be hesitant to add stabilizer.. but I'm not so sure, it didn't seem right when I initially heard that.

Thanks all for your time/help!! This has been a great resource thus far and I hope I can contribute in the future.

I just bought this index orange / gray sandfilter last year,This year plastic broke under the turning handle!! now the label is not the correct information for that setting.How do I figure out which is what???? Pleaseee