Hey all!

**Intro - My wife and I bought a house this past winter, and it has a 30ft round above ground pool. It supposedly works, per the previous owner. The cover that was on it had a lot of rips, and long story short, when we got that drained and the cover pulled, the water under is pretty green. My understanding is I can shock it, without draining the entire thing. So, we filled the pool to the skimmer. I had to order a new pump/filter screw cap because that was missing. We have all of the chemicals, a lot were left, some we've had to purchase.**

I found TFP by posting the above on Reddit. I got great advice. I installed the app on my phone and looked at what chemicals I needed to SLAM. I have the Taylor test kit. We also have a hot tub that came with the house so I have some familiarity with the chemicals. Admittedly, the hot tub took me a couple of weeks to get right, but now I can pretty much eye ball it and know what I need to do, though I do still test the water to verify.

Anyways, after installing the app and looking at what we needed, my wife and I went to Menards to snag the remainder of the chemicals we didn't have after looking at the app. Here comes the overwhelming part where I messed up. I was googling the chemicals needed, followed by Menards. I think we bought some stuff that isn't technically what we needed.
We bought the following:

• Pool Shock
• 20 Mule Team Borax
• Utikem® AlkaPlus Pool Treatment
• Utikem® Pool Chlorine Stabilizer & Conditioner
• A&H Baking Soda

So here is the problem, (and forgive me, I should have wrote down more, but I am at work. I am going to WFH the remainder of the day here shortly and can answer any direct questions with better information) I added too much of the AlkaPlus, and the pool went from smelling like a disgusting pond and looking nasty and green to smelling like a pool but being white and milky/cloudy. Is this fixable, or did I ruin the water. I really really really don't want to have to drain the pool as that is such a waste of water. If it's fixable, fantastic. If not, it is what it is.

I think per the SLAM on the app we added six gallons of shock, two of the little boxes of baking soda, and then I added two whole bags of the AlkaPlus before realizing the chemical listed on that, isn't the same chemical listed in the app, even though when I googled it w/ Menards, that's what came up.

Another thing I am tempted to do is to grab a sample and bring it to a pool company to have them test.

I appreciate you all taking the time to read this.
Hvstle

Test came back
Chl-5-6 ppm
Ph 7.2
Alk-40
Hard-30
Cya is 30-40ppm after 50% water change

Pool is green and cloudy, pump is operating flawlessly and is double the size for the pool

Intex 24’x52”

Sand filter 16 inch
8500 gph 2 hp pump
Skimmer added

I had pool store help, and problem got worse, i did the 50% water change and this is where im at , im scared to do anything lol. I own a complete test kit for home use. Please advise, alabama supposed ti get hot hot this coming week and my kids are looking at me like i am lost haha

Anybody have a solution for grackle birds? Im in MN, they migrate in to nest and love to drop their hatchling "Poop sack" away from the nest and their favorite place is water. They love to drop on the pool cover and it is a long process to properly clean up before we can open the pool cover. They generally fly over and "bombing run" the cover. I've tried the big balloon predator eyes & streamers. It only last about a month, but very messy and frustrating during that process. I'm at the point where I put a separate tarp over the pool b/c that's easier to haul off and rinse over in the grass than trying to clean the pool cover so much,

Curious if anyone else has come across this or has any solid solutions for these aggressive birds.
Thanks

I have the Jandy pro series Aqualink remote for my pool and every day the program for our filter pump is deleted and it defaults the date on the remote back to January 6, 2009. I have replaced the battery at the control panel I was told I might need a new control panel. What are your thoughts?
Aqualink R0687300

Ok, ok, I read through pool school and several threads and I see that this system is trash. Opening the 24' round pool this year was yucko...green and slick. We did the whole prime and shock and ended up with cloudy white. And here is where I've dumped so much $$$ thanks to pool store before I found you. Could you look over my process and see if there is something I'm missing and need to do? I do not have the Taylor yet (I know, everything else is rubbish). But testing at two different pool stores and my strips yielded the same results. I'm ordering my own today, also so I can stop running around all day.
After the initial shock, we found we had almost no CYA and calcium was extremely low, high ph, and no ph.
Now, after spending $$$$$$ on various products on powdered shock it's still cloudy but numbers are better....
Two days ago i had
FC 2.4
CC .35
Ph 7.6
CYA 42
Calcium 186
Yesterday morning
FC 1.4
CC .21
Everything else the same
So I found you and read a ton and decided I need to Slam. Last night I jumped in and scrub scrubbed and have been running the vacuum.
This morning, I haven't had a chance to go to pool store, but I'm reading basically no chlorine, so I added what the app said for liquid chlorine (12.5% 1 gallon, 3 quarts, 1 cup). I'll test again around noon, same process, 2 stores plus strips. I'll overnight the Taylor if that's available. I'll add in what the app tells me to at that point. So, do I just keep adding chlorine to slam levels until it's clear?

Large cartridge filter has been running 24/7 since the start, with me cleaning the cartridge every 2 days, though the psi was still fine.

Things on my to do list:
Order Taylor (No need to tell me how important it is)
Switch to a SWG (advice on one of those would be awesome, too)

I know this was lengthy, and I appreciate any help.

Hi folks - I’m adding a steel rail by the in-water steps of my 16K gallon inground that is surrounded by pavers. I’m sinking two brass anchors on 8” centers into cement I’ll pour to a level just below the bottom of the pavers, so I can add a layer of sand and the pavers will still be replaceable some day.

I prefer to have the brass anchor cups also to the top of the cement (not rising up toward paver level), so the top of the anchors again will be just below the bottom of the pavers. Holes in the pavers will be, of course, large enough to access the anchor bolts (after perhaps scraping a bit of sand away). It seems to me, in addition to making paver replacement easier some day by not having to chip away cement, the anchors are better off with the full cement surrounding them, not rising out of the cement by the paver thickness of 2”. I checked the height and the rail will not be too low.

Does anyone see a problem with that plan?

By digging I already lucked out and found a #8 bonding wire tied to the rebar, otherwise I would have threaded the bonding wire under a bunch more pavers over to the equipment pad. For the anchor footing I had thought a 12x12”x12” cube of footing with rebar and a few 2” holes sinking farther out and deeper would be enough, but after reading a comment by jimmythegreek (thank you) in an old thread about an 18”x24”x10” footing, I may go deeper and wider. My rail will extend 50” from the back of the rail post, so leverage is a factor indeed.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Hi All,

I recently open my pool for the first time ( I usually hire a company, but, decided to do it myself. I have likely missed some steps so, please don’t go too hard on me!

My pool was green after running my filter and I didn’t properly vacuum.

- I shocked the pool on Saturday and Sunday and was still greenish and cloudy.

- On Monday I bought HTH green to blue and followed the process. Added the shock, then added the floc to the skimmer and recirculated for 2 hours. And I let it settle overnight.

- on Tuesday morning the floc is still floating but, a lot settle with the algae at the bottom. Later that day, the floc hadn’t settled so, I chatted with HTH help desk and they said to wait or I could disrupt it by spraying water. I decided to wait.

- Wednesday - this morning the floc still didn’t settle. So, I sprayed if with water and waited for particles to settle (2 hours). I then vacuumed to waste and got most of it out and it looks much clearer.




I plan to vacuum to waste again this afternoon.

Question: Can I add Chlorine to the pool turn on the filter? I read that floc is bad for my sand filter. Do you see a problem with turning on the filter if there is some Floc in the pool?

Thanks for your help!

SW pool (first time use after last fall new build) has been fine for the first month, very clear. Then several days ago started to get a little cloudy although I could still see dirt flakes on the bottom. I have the Taylor test kit results

FC 4
CC 0.5
PH 7.5
CYA 50
TA 200
Salt is 5000, very high, the pool builder over salted last fall before we closed, so I've been periodically draining and refilling, but slow going with a garden hose

I added a couple of cups of liquid stabilizer yesterday to get CYA up a little. and had the grandkids and 4 adults going hard in the pool most of the afternoon.

This morning FC was more like 2 so I upped the SW gen to 80 %. It was at 50% for the last several days. PH was still 7.5

How to get rid of the slightly cloudy?? Seems like SLAM might be overkill to me, but I'm new to pool chemistry.

Anything to add? Get the FC up into the higher numbers??

Hello, having a problem with raccoons using our pool as a toilet, and struggling with the best way to cover it and still be able to use it. The pool is small enough that I could essentially just place two foldable spa covers on top of it each night, which I think would work, but my (admittedly ignorant) question is if there are any problems with covering the pool with an impermeable barrier overnight is ok? Specifically, will putting that type of cover on top encourage bacteria or algae to grow? I guess I could leave cracks open on each side for a little air. Apologies for the stupid question, but this seems like our best cover option given the space, so just want to make sure it will work safely.
Thanks very much for any feedback.

Hi Friends,

My AGP is still standing after its first winter. I'm getting ready to open it either this weekend or next. I am assuming the first steps are:

1. Drain water off the top of the cover
2. Untie and roll back the cover to remove it
3. Hook up plumbing
4. Fill
5. Run it for 24 hours
6. Check chemicals and start balancing them

Is that correct? First time reopener so I appreciate any words of advice.

Thanks!

I have had my inground pool with SWG For 3 years. Have the intellichlor brand. We only use our pool 4-5 months per year.
Year 1-2 no problem. Last year and this year, the “check cell” light blinks often. When the trouble started last year, I realized the cell needed to be cleaned every 3 months. (I had no idea.)As you can imagine, it was loaded with white crusty stuff. I have cleaned the cell with muriatic acid twice already this year. The pool has only been open for 2 months. Both times it definitely needed cleaning. Cleaned it yesterday, the light went off. Today the light to check cell is back on. How do I know if it’s time to replace the SWG? Side note- I’m having a heck of a time maintaining a free chlorine level. Related??

I have notes (from when we bought the house, before I had the automation installed)
from left to right
Jets -Poor man spa -bottom jets
cleaner - main drain - skimmer

We also got a new cleaner robot vs the suction cleaner that came with the pool, and I think we are supposed to remove that vacuum gauge and plug the hole?

We are doing some landscaping, hence the dug up pipes. But in the process we have touched things we probably should not have and I don't know for sure what position all of these handles should be in (both the valves and the little brown ones)
I just know the water flow is wonky and there are way too many combinations for me to do it by trial and error. Help, please?

Hi, so I have an older pool setup, with flexible PVC pipes that were here when we purchased the house with pool three years ago. This season it's been open for three weeks and I've noticed about a one inch water loss (based on skimmers) over the course of 1-1.5 weeks. I also have been seeing air bubbles from return jets, and everytime I open the the Dr filter air release valve, I see air come out, then water, but if I reopen, air again. I noticed today that the inlet to the pump seems to have some loose spaces around it, almost as if the pool guy who set it up didn't tighten the clamp or seal it. Attached below are pictures, I tried my best with the angles. Could this be a potential source? I have already relaxed pump lid o ring

My total alkalinity is high, free chlorine is 15, combined is .5, water is clearing up but when I feel my liner on the walls it feels gritty like sand paper, I can scratch it off but it’s everywhere. What is the cause and is there a solution other than scrubbing. In ground 40X20, 33,000 gallons.

So last year i had emergany surgery that put me out for a few months... i had a company come and close the pool. Not good they didnt fully clean anything i had dry earth in shed and all.... anyway..

I Cleaned and got everything no leaks... except for my gauge. I dont think my gauge is leaking though.. i think they leveraged the black housing that my gauge sort of sets inside. My question is does it come off? Is it pressed or threaded... i want to replace it with some sort of fitting.

Hate to be posting again. At the end of the season last year I was getting what I assumed was a algae dusting on the floor. I performed a SLAM before closing and passed OCLT and had clear water for several days before settling on a FC of 11 and CC of Zero with no dust. From there I put the cover on. Opened up yesterday after 3 months to a sparkling clean pool with no dust, 10FC and still zero CC. Just added salt and tested all other levels. Today just one day later I have the dust on the floor again! I guess I need to SLAM but for how long?? I was passing OCLT and water is crystal clear. How long should I run a SLAM to make sure this is gone? As soon as I SLAM the dust will be gone but I do not want it back this time. CYA is 80 now unfortutnally.

Hi all. I just opened my pool after installing a new Hayward Tristar 900 VS pump, which is running well. When I turned on the auxiliary pump to run my Polaris 280 there is a loud noise, but even stranger is that the flow coming out into the pool from the Polaris line decreases, and the flow of water from the rest of the returns increases. It is almost like the Polaris is pumping water in the wrong direction. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hello all. Thank you for the opportunity to join this forum. We have had an inground 20,000 gallon vinyl liner pool for 20 years. We’ve been going to Leslies for all that time and have had mixed results. Last year our pool was pond green and we spent a lot of money trying to get it clear. We unable to get it clear. We hired a pool company and they were able to clear it up after several weeks and hundreds of dollars. This year Pool is still green and we want to learn how to maintain our pool ourselves. I purchased the TF 100 test kit, have reviewed how to use, but I’m still in the dark on how to add chemicals based on the readings. It appears I need to shock the pool first to kill the algae as the pool is pretty bad looking. from what I’ve read liquid chlorine is the preferred shock. I have 18 1 pound bags of power powder plus from Leslie’s that I would use to shock or SLAM. I have read and viewed the videos and information and I’m really ready to get going. i’ve never tested our pool or any pool so really want to do things correctly and take the right steps in order to get our pool ready to swim in ASAP. Any suggestions on how to start on the right foot or where in trouble free pool resources to go to? Again, I’ve never used a test kit and I have a very green pool. i’ve thrown so much money into the pool, especially last year and I’m hoping to become proficient at getting and keeping the pool maintained well for the short period of time we will be able to actually use it. Thank you for any replies.

I hope someone can help me with this. Until 3 weeks ago my Hayward Aquarite had been working great in my 10,000 gallon plaster pool. At a duty cycle of 24% the FC would climb. At a duty cycle of 22% the FC generally held steady to a slow decline. Now it seems to barely work.

Recent history:
- 23 days ago: FC was 7.5 at a 22% setting. I lowered the setting to 20% (as measured by going through the diagnostics because the printed knob settings are not accurate).
- 15 days ago: FC was 4.0 at the 20% setting. I raised the setting to 23%.
- 8 days ago: FC was 2.0. I raised the SWG to 35% and added .2 gal 10.5% Chlorine.
- 6 days ago: FC was 1.5 and CC was 0. I added .4 to .5 gal 10.5% Chlorine to get the FC back to a comfortable level and put the SWG to SUPERCHLORINATE for the afternoon. FC came up to 5.0.
- 5 days ago (about 24 hours later) the FC measured 5.0.
- 2 days ago: FC was 4.0. Taylor salt test showed 3600. I adjusted SWG hours from 7 to 9 per day and raised it to 70% duty cycle.
- Today, after 2.5 inches of rain and 2 cloudy days: FC at 3.0. The SWG appears to be producing because I observe bubbles coming from the return jets when the SWG shows current (no bubbles if current is 0). I took a water sample from one of the returns and measured 6.0 FC so I know the SWG is generating. I just don't know if the production has fallen off a cliff from this test.

SWG info: New OEM control board about 1.5 years ago and new (late Sep 2023 install as my Hayward t-9 only lasted about 2 years) Circupool DIR-GEN15 Aftermarket T-15 replacement cell.

SWG diagnostics:
30.1 volts when not outputing chlorine
25.1 volts and 6.86A when outputing chlorine (had been 7.01A a week or so ago when I tested the salt level at 3600. Note: I fired the pool guy about 2 months ago when he dumped salt in on 2 successive weeks causing the SWG to read 3800 and temporarily shutting the SWG down and driving the FC to 12, and regularly letting the ph to go to 8.4.)

Chemistry today (Taylor K2006 kit plus Taylor salt test and recently calibrated digital pH meter. Added 20oz acid two days ago):
FC: 3.0
CC: 0
pH: 7.5
CYA: tested at 70 two days ago (typically kept between 50 and 70)
Salt: 3400 (was 3600 before the rain) (Instant salt test at the SWG reads 2900 or 3000)
TA: 70 two days ago
CH: 3 months ago: 600 (Rarely tested. I've seen it as high as 650 at the end of the dry season and as low as 325 at the end of the wet season.)

Thanks

Very frustrating that Aqualink is not supporting traditional wired RS connection to control pool. Bought new RS controller a few years ago and told no longer supported. Forcing users to use a phone app to control pool & scheduling is way too complex. Have made it work for years and now trouble shooting takes days and forces non technical pool companies to understand your home wifi network which is a liability. Jandy should get back to basics and offer a dependable wired solution to an extended control system.

My subscription renewed on 6/1 so I am assuming it’s a beta issue. Is there anything I can provide to assist?

Hi all. My pool builder will not install a standalone slide, so we plan to add one later, most likely the SR smith Typoon water slide. I asked the pool builder to set up the plumbing for it, which he will with what is listed at a 2 inch pipe size (called “future water feature” on the official plan). I was reading the Typoon instruction manual and it states it is capable with a 1 inch line. Could I just get a 2 inch to 1 inch pipe reducer at the point of the slide hookup or should I tell him to switch it to a 1 inch pipe the whole way?

Thanks in advance for any help.

The original setup is I'm guessing about 10-15 years old. About a year ago I switched over to a salt cell, adding it to the Pro Logic pl-p-4. Perhaps it was bumping it up to 60% or maybe it's done it all along but the other day I was near the box and smelled an electronics burning smell coming from it. The transformer appears very hot and I believe that is what is making the smell. I lowered the % and chose to just run the pump longer hoping that helps with the load/heat. My question is, is this normal? Chlorine generation appears fine. Should I replace the transformer preemptively to avoid any issues? Thoughts? Thanks!

Located in an area with a lot of sharp stones (shale) in the soil, looking for help on my plan

What is my best base option;
1" Fomular XPS rigid insulation Est cost $445
Harbor freight 25x25 locking mats Est cost $325
Also considered 5 ton of sand spread 2" thick for a base. Would also make leveling much easier. Est cost $300.
I know Intex says not to setup on sand, but I am assuming they are referring to 100% sand, not just using sand to level a base.

Am ordering a gorilla pad (amazon version) for over top of whatever I end up for as a base.

Then for support under the legs;
Treated 2x8s cut 15" long and set side by side Est cost $85
4" thick 8X16 solid concrete blocks set side by side Est cost $85
Really not sure on this one, Intex says 15"x15" so it will need to be something stacked side by side that can handle the weight. I doubt 2" pavers would withstand the pressure without cracking.

Other thoughts;
I opted for the Salt system, will be filling with a local clean stream and treating accordingly. Gonna get it setup and fine tune later. Recommendations for other accessories? (Skimmer, vacuum?) should I look into solid PVC piping in the future?

Thanks all!

Sorry it is an old post, but need help!
I have these "ants" in the pool (full of them see the big ones and small winged) and can't find from where they came from. Not from the deck, so I wonder could they be inground or in the pipes? Need help!!! Thanks!

My pump isn’t pumping. It was working fine. Then the pool got drained accidentally and the pump ran all day without water. The motor comes on. The impeller turn’s but no suction. I tried putting the inlet hose in a bucket to see if I could get it to work. After a couple of times trying it sucked once. And not for long. Now nothing. Please help.

Hi all! I'm very glad to have found this place. Seems like exactly what I need.
I'm a new homeowner and, along with that, a new pool owner. I've never had a pool before. I'm learning as fast as I can so that we can use it this summer!
The details of my pool should be in my signature, but just in case: it's a 7,500-gallon, round, vinyl, above-ground pool.

A week ago, I took off the cover and started reckoning with the pool. I filled the sand filter and started pumping.
The early measurements (with strips; didn't have TF-Pro yet) showed zero FC/TC, about 7.4 pH, and about 180 TA.
It was a bit greenish and a bit cloudy.

I did some research and decided that I should get the TA under control before fiddling with pH.
So, three days ago, I added 52oz (6.5 cups) 14.5% HCl, which brought the pH down to around 7.0.
Yesterday, I built a PVC fountain and have been aerating through that on and off since then for a total of about 8 hours.

Today, I got my TF-Pro and did a full suite of tests: 0 FC, 0 CC, 7.2 pH, 120 TA, 100 CH, <30 CYA. So it seems my acid & aeration is having the intended effect!
I plan to continue aerating it when I can and testing pH twice a day until the pH comes back to around 7.6, then confirm that the TA hasn't fallen too far.

My questions:

• Once my pH is back up (and the TA has come down), should I SLAM to try and clear up the pool? It has zero FC, zero CC, and less than 30ppm CYA. It's still a bit greenish and a bit cloudy.
• Despite some vacuuming and skimming, there's still some crud at the bottom. I think it's mostly leaves and such. Can I wait to polish that off until the pool is chemically ready to go? Or is there a reason to prioritize that?

I've attached photos of the pool, including my homemade fountain and the plumbing.

I'm brand new to all this and hoping I haven't screwed it up too much yet.

My sand filter isn't filtering well. When I run the filter and only when I run the filter, I get a lot of debris in the bottom of the pool. Mostly in the center. It's been recommended I try Zeosand. It sounds good, and could be a good path.

I bought a SlimeBag and I can run the filter all day and the pool is clear. Rinse out the slime bag, do it again. But then, why has a filter at all? I'm hoping if I swap out the sand for Zeosand it'll give me the same results and the slimebag can be shelved and used when I open the pool or after a storm, etc.

Ive been through the entire filter system. The multiport valve had a new spider gasket replaced. Didn't help. I replaced the multiport valve, no difference. Replaced the sand, no change. I've checked the fingers twice, and even brought them to the pool store figuring if they thought there was an issue they would happily sell me replacements, nothing. I've added DE to the system over and over with minimal at best results. If I run the filter and don't clean up the dirt and debris that collects, it never grows, it doesn't spread, and I can go a week without adding anything and the pool won't turn green or anything, nothing really changes.

This has been an ongoing problem every year, I have slammed multiple times, and the dirt doesn't change. I've collected samples, I've dumped liquid chlorine on them and left them, thinking if it's something organic it would change, it doesn't. It just gets a tiny bit darker when it's wet. It's almost clay like in texture when it's wet.

When I opened the pool I had discovered the cover was ripped and it was green. There was some green sludge at the bottom which was Algea. I took samples of that and put liquid chlorine on it and it changed, turned white and almost flakey. Just as a sanity check. Running the filter and a series of skimmer basket bags cleared up the green pool rather quickly.

Now my water is clear but at night if I shine a 1000+ lumen flashlight across the top of the water I can see little specs. When I run the slimebag there are significantly less of them. Which tells me when the filter is running I'm turning over these "floating" specs and they are ended up on the pool floor.

Sorry for the long post, I wanted to give all the information in case there is something I've assumed incorrectly or something I might have missed. It's either upgrade the sand to ZeoSand or I have to upgrade my filter to a cartridge style filter. I'm tired of the filter not catching anything smaller than a golf ball.

I have an 18x40 vinyl lined inground SWG pool. It has 2 skimmers, a return at one end, a 2 seat bump out that has 2 returns against the backrest, and wide no liner white stairs with returns at the sides. I have had a leak for a few years, tested with the bucket test. It was bad enough last year that I had a diver who said the lining looks great and we never had wet spots or drips in the pump area. It was losing 1-2 inches every other day by August when the rain slowed down and it was costing me too much in water and adding salt for the use we got from it. I shut some returns to try to diagnose, but nothing systematic and was sick of the issue so closed it early. When I opened it again this summer, I was determined to find the issue. I believe the issue is one of the returns going to the side of the stairs. It had putty on it because a 5 or so years ago I had a service open the pool because I could not deal with the cover myself, and I recall someone saying they were taking the return plugs out and it was stuck and a piece of PCV connector? piece came out of the wall. They claimed to screw it back in and I forgot about it for a few years until the leak got annoying.

For the purposes of my plumbing question, let's assume there is a break in the return underground shortly after the stairs. There are cracks there in the concrete too, so it makes sense. What doesn't make sense to me is that I have that one side stair return plugged, but the return on the other side open. Both returns are on the same line from the filter, and split near the stairs to get to each side. There is a shut off for each of the return lines - end, bump out seats, and stairs. All returns are open, but the one that I think is in error is plugged. The pool seems like it is not leaking now with that return plugged (been 3 weeks and water near same level), but it may be leaking slowly - haven't bucket tested and a lot of rain.

So from a plumbing standpoint, would water still try to push thru that return and leak? Or does the plug change pressure and water flow so it isn't an issue. Or something entirely different.

I want to understand it before I have someone dig.

Hello,
Our pool wasn't kept up or used at all last year due to health problems.
We'd like to open it and I've been trying to get the chemicals balanced for a while now and was lucky to have found this forum. I ordered the test kit recommended and have been running the filter and backwashing daily along with brushing and putting some chlorine every day until the kit arrived. Here are my numbers:
Free Chlorine = 0
Total chlorine = .5 (I believe this is the correct term)
pH = 7.8
CYA = 55
Alkalinity = 230

I'm reading that I need to see how much chlorine to put in and buy double that amount.
Our pool is 22,000 gallons and from what I can tell on the Pool Math site I need 28 gallons of liquid bleach which means purchasing 56 gallons for the SLAM process. That seems like an awful lot. Is that correct?

Thanks for any help or advice you can give me!
Laura