There’s no date on my Hayward S220T tag. I do see this on the bottom while I’m cleaning it. Is this a manufacture date? We’ve only lived here 3 years. Thank you.

Scrolling through the manual today looking for the part number to order new filters I noticed they have a different style device on the intake side. After further researching it prevents DE from settling to the bottom of the filter housing. Pentair Quad DE Pool Filter Diverter Assembly Retro Kit | 196024S that link has pictures showing the old vs the new just a couple scrolls down.

Wondering if this is worthwhile since I haven't been able to find any discussions on here about it. My filter still runs great, no complaints, just had not seen this before.

P/N 196024S

Well, I've been pretty happy with my Pureline SWG until this week...it has just started shutting down on Low Salt (after running for a few minutes once switched on and presumably generating chlorine, based on the appearance of bubbles at the pool jets prior to shutdown).

I checked salt levels with the TFLPool Kits salt kit and with the AquaChek strips that came with the SWG - both were in agreement at ~2900-3000ppm.

I added 120 lbs of pool salt and ran the pump overnight, now I'm getting ~4000ppm with the AquaChek strips. But the SWG behavior is unchanged - still shuts down on Low Salt after a few minutes. Cycling through the menu, I see it's reading 2000ppm instantaneous salt and a very high water temperature of around 120 degrees (vs actual of 80 degrees per Aqualink). In the past, the cell temperature readings were in line with the Aqualink readings. Amps and volts are normal. I checked resistance across the temperature sensor pins and got 3750 ohms (in line with 120 degrees).

The cell only has 1000-1500 hours on it ("check cell" light flashes every 500 hours and has only flashed twice). I've never observed any scale or build-up on the plates, and have never cleaned them with muriatic acid or vinegar. I tried scraping them off with zip ties this morning but nothing came off. My calcium hardness has always tested in the 250-300ppm range.

I'll be calling InyoPools today to see what they suggest, but thought I'd check with the TFP community as well. Unfortunately the system is about 1 month out of warranty, but if my cell has failed prematurely I hope they'd at least offer a discount on a replacement.

Hi. I will be re-sealing my pool patio soon. I know it will be slippery after the reseal. Was thinking of using an additive. There are a lot of different types in the market. However, I have heard from many that the anti slip usually wears off after a year. Also, some said they could see it on their patio. Wondering if anyone has experience and opinions about this subject.

Thanks
Rich

I opened my pool 4 days ago. I have vacuumed it 3 times. The next morning there is always dirt on the bottom. Not as much as I took out the day before but I feel like it is too much. Is this a filter problem? I have a Pentair fns36 De filter.

Has anyone had their fiberglass pool steps refinished or resurfaced with rebound? If so, where are you located and what were you charged? I was quoted $3500 in long island

My union broke and while trying to get it off pipe started to crack from my salt gen. What’s best corse to fix this? I was thinking curing pipe and using a 2.5 inch coupler.

Happy Spring!

I’m a returning pool owner. I’ll try to make it short and sweet. I just want to make sure I’m on the right track because it’s been about 4 years.

New build in ground pool finished build and closed right away before Thanksgiving.

Before closing a put in enough cya to raise to 17, and some bleach, and said a Hail Mary.

My safety cover wasn’t ready when closing, so sometime in January they swapped the tarp cover with the safety and all the gunk on top of the tarp cover went in (I wasn’t home).

So now I’ve opened early in attempt to get a start on balancing and cleaning and omg I was not expecting this. It looks and smells like the Chesapeake bay. Can’t see the bottom. My pool was PRISTINE at my previous house and I never had to deal with anything like this. I only ever read other people’s stories on here; but at least I feel somewhere prepared because of that.

So the pool is open and running. I backwashed to lower water to where the skimmers are doing something. We had a ton of rain this winter so when I checked water chem, 0 chlorine, and cya so low it appears to be zero. But I know I poured that gallon in before closing so there should be SOME… maybe like 8? Should I guess 8 or assume 0?

I’m typing this in between added liquid cya. Next I’ll check pH, alk, and then raise my chlorine but I’m wondering what cya level to use? I’m pouring in enough to take another 17ppm… so I guess my main question is should I assume 17 or assume 23ish (assuming there is some left from the fall).

Thanks! I’ll post pics. Not much to see though. The liner is almost black and so is the water.

I have an older Hayward AquaRite SWCG and have been frustrated that there seems to be no way to add wifi to it- or if there is, I cannot seem to find it.

So my question is - are there good SWCG controllers out there that can automatically monitor chlorine levels and adjust, or at least be controlled remotely via wifi? I have spent hours on the Hayward site and it seems pretty useless- so many models, no idea what I need. Not many reviews out there. I am sure there are other models also outside of Hayward....

I don't need to control fancy lights, just the chlorine generator (ideally) and I also have a VSP that I could control but not really a necessity.

I have a 36000 gal in ground pool and like the salt water life, just looking to be able to monitor it while away for extended periods and NOT break the bank. Any advice appreciated!

Hi there,
I’m a new pool owner (moved into a home with a ~10 year old pool). I had a pool service open it a couple weeks ago, but would like to maintain it over the summer myself. I’ve read through the pool water chemistry literature here and elsewhere, but would love some advice to make sure the water is properly balanced. It is a 35000 gal plaster pool/spa with a SWG. It has a cover that we keep closed, so the water is not exposed to a lot of direct sunlight. The water is clear. I tested with a Taylor kit this morning and got the following, my question is, should I mess with anything to try and get a CYA reading or make adjustments e.g. add acid, or just leave everything alone for now and test a few more times to see how the water changes over the next couple of weeks.
TA - 100 (TFP app recommends 60-80)
PH - >8 (TFP app recommends 7.6-7.8)
CH - 200 (TFP app recommends 350-550 - but the site also said with a spa keep levels to 100-150 to reduce foaming)
CYA - did not turn cloudy
FAC - 10
Salinity is measuring at 3.0 from the SWG which is within range based on the equipment manual. The SWG was previously set to 70% but I turned it down to 50% this morning since the chlorine level seemed high.
Thank you for your advice!

I accidentally drained the pool too low, and when we got our first big snow, it did some damage. It appears some of the legs of the pool were dragged, and in 1 section the sheet metal side popped out of the track.

Check out these pictures.

#1:

#2:

#3 & #4:

#5 & #6:

#7:

Note: the #4 photo is me pushing on the bulge in the #3 photo with my leg, to show how it's slipped the track.

What would you do? Can I salvage this for another season of swimming? Should I call my local pool company and see if they can fix it?

Thank you for your expertise!

Hi. New here. I’ve been trying to find photos of pools finished with StoneScapes Kenai Grey micro pebbles? My pool is 9ft deep and I’m concerned it might be too dark in the deep end. Debating between Kenai or French grey. Thank

Background - new liner and water 4/26/24. Followed TFP instructions as suggested. Readings as of yesterday:

FC 2.5 (added more chlorine per pool math)
pH 7.2 (added Borax per pool math - need to raise a little more)
CYA 60 (need to increase to 80 - water temp 62 so taking a few days)
TA 50 (have not adjusted)
Salt: 2800 (per pool math) - tested with new Taylor K-1766

Turned on SWG (replaced with aftermarket T-15 in May 2021. AQL-PLUS shows Check system very low salt Set chlorinator to 10%
Tried all the tricks - cleaned sensor, cell looks fine, turned system off completely and restarted - all to no avail.

Diagnostics:

+29.46V
69 Degrees
+1.87A
500 ppm

-28.19V
69 degrees
-3.51A
1300 ppm

I read to try resetting the system since all the water was replaced. The only info I can find anywhere speaks to turning off the "physical switch" which we do not have. Called Hayward for help to reset (manual does not address this) and then want me to have a dealer diagnose. Told them I don't want to spend $150 for a service call. I called Salt Solutions and guy said based on readings, the cell has gone bad. Said I should have gotten 4 years out of it, but ... proper balancing, etc. There are no error messages at all on the AQL indicating any issues with the cell.

Is there a way to reset or do I just bite the bullet and buy another T-15? Thanks in advance - meanwhile I'll use liquid chlorine and continue to get my CYA and other chemicals balanced.

Many thanks!

UPDATE 1: SEE POST #14 FOR FILTER PAD AND PLUMBING

Hello all,

I am embarking on the pool building process. Excavation started and finished today just before some rain hit. Pool kit and installation comes next week. I will be asking tons of questions during this process. Appreciate everyones help and I hope this thread will help future pool owners. Will update thread as progress is made.

40' x 32' x 16' true-L vinyl liner pool with steel walls.

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Hello all -
I'm a new pool owner. Just noticed today taht my Hayward salt water generator's power LED is OFF; however, its display is working.

The diagnostic readings are - 2200, 71, 6.3, 0.0, 23P, 0, AL-0, r-1.58, t-15.

4-5 days ago, I noticed the pool turning green, and saw the reading 2200 (didn't pay attention to the power LED that time). So I dumped 1.5 bags of salt. The TF test salt reading today was 2800. I wanted to check how this test result compares with the SWG reading in the panel; and that's when I noticed the power LED not On.

I did some research in this forum and saw two possible reasons - fuse or thermistor. How do I narrow it down? or am I missing something? Please help.

Thanks
Jag

We started opening the pool this past weekend and I removed the bulkhead fittings on our Hayward 200 sand filter to clean around them and those openings. When I tightened the the bottom one (where the longer elbow of the variflow valve goes) on the last turn I heard a CRACK and the fitting "slipped" and got a little looser, one or two turns tightened it back up and stayed tight.
Once I turned the pool on, a small trickle of water started coming from that area.
So, did I crack my fitting or my bulkhead?
Thanks in advance!

Hi! I'm new to owning a pool and I'm looking for recommendations for things/ chemicals I should always have on hand and the best place to buy them. Like pool shock and chlorine tablets.

Thanks!

The other day I got curious. I know there are three houses with pools right in a row up the street from me. So I started looking around google earth satellite views to see whose pools were good (couple I can see the main drain) and whose were cloudy and green! I could tell the images were from sometime last summer based on the shade sail that is put up over our pool area.

Just thought that was entertaining, wondered if anyone else has done this?

I’ve had high Chlorine (Cl that shows in a simple Leslie’s test kit) for quite awhile. Had Leslie’s test a few times and we’ve added a few things to either de-Chlorinate or bring pH up. Haven’t shocked in a long time. Took tab floater out of the pool. pH has been in range. Yesterday I tested and pH doesn’t even register. Water in test kit is completely clear. Added about 5lbs of soda ash in steps and still no reading.

Frankly, none of the chemicals seem to do the job anymore. Is my water done? Do we need to drain and start over? I haven’t done that in forever so I’ll probably need to get a more comprehensive testing kit to track more water characteristics. Just want to know if I’m on the right track?

Hello TFPers,

Not long ago I had a new Pentair VSF pump and intellicenter automation system installed. The installer setup the schedule to run at a very high speed (3400 rpm) for 12 hours a day. After doing some research here I realized that wasn't necessary from a filtering/chlorine production standpoint so I bumped it down significantly to 1800 rpm to save some money on electricity. The pool is clear and balanced and seems to be generating/maintaining chlorine fine, however I did notice something that I wasn't sure if should be a cause for concern or not.

It looks like more air is getting introduced to the system than before. Previously I had gone through and found some plumbing leaks and thought I had them all addressed. When it was running at high speed I had no issues with air getting introduced after these fixes. The pump primed quickly and there was very little to no air showing through the pump lid. However, running at lower speed there is quite a bit of air showing in the pump lid and if I turn it up to full speed it blows a lot of large bubbles out of the jets for several minutes. After putting it back down to low speed the air will eventually come back.

Is this a problem or just an expected effect of running at a lower speed? The pump seems to be operating fine (not cavitating) but the GPM reading does go down over time. I understand this is not really important (and maybe not an accurate reading due to the extra air?) but my worry is that the flow rate could get low enough to have a negative effect on my salt cell producing chlorine.

Any thoughts?

While I have you here: Also, I have a booster pump that runs a Polaris pressure side cleaner. Should I be running my main pump at high(er) speed while this is on or can/should I leave it at 1800 rpm? Not sure if that will effect performance or not.

Thanks,
Will

My pool is full of mud and silt from major storm. Deck area drain got clogged and the storm water overflowed into the pool, along with mud, silt, leaves and mulch.

Anyway, I am wondering if I should just drain the pool at this point and clean it. I can't see much further down than 12" or so and has a deep end. Pics are right after taking cover off.

Advice/suggestions appreciated.

I’ve been considering the idea of installing a SWG. I'm looking at the Circupool RJ60+ (based on the recommendation from @Newdude ). At the moment, I’m scoping out my pad for a DIY installation.

For power, I’d plan to get 240V from the "Aux Relay 1" on my Jandy VS pump (same plan as this thread). But somehow I don’t love the idea of running the SWG power cable unexposed over my pool pad. It seems that it might be better to protect the line in some Liquid-tight nonmetallic conduit (which is used for the other electrical connections on my pad).

But here I have a few questions:

1) Is this overkill? Do most Circupool users just run the power cable unexposed and call it a day?

2) Does the Control Module on the RJ60+ have a knockout that would accommodate a connection to the flexible conduit?

3) Would it be better to sheath the original SWG power cable within that conduit, or instead to cut it off and run some THWN between the pump and the control module?

Thanks!

Sampo

P.S. I’m still not 100% committed to the SWG idea. My hesitation remains needing the corresponding salt levels in my pool. I’ve been SLOWLY raising the salinity. But just as I feared, I started to be able to taste the salt at about 1,500 ppm. I’m now at 2,000 ppm, and still have a bit to go to get to the 3,500 ppm target.

Is the Pentair EC-160353 the exact same filter as the Sta-Rite PXCRP200? The specs are all the same. The only difference appears to be the color and the warranty on the Pentair EC SKU being 1 year. I'm assuming the cartridge is the same pleatco cartridge but not sure. It's $150 more for the Pentair.

I have a Jandy LXi400 heater that gives me a "FAULT - CHECK IGN CONTROL" when I turn on the heat.
I've read a few threads and followed the troubleshooting guide (https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/Troubleshooting/LXiTS.pdf) which led me straight to Step13.

Rather than getting 24VAC at the air pressure switch; I'm getting about 8VAC. As such; I replaced the air pressure switch. No difference. Still only getting 8VAC.
Any ideas what to try next?

The exact symptom is; I turn on heat remotely (using my PDA). The blower comes on and I hear the ignition module click 3 or 4 times (or more likely it's the gas valve that's clicking open) before the fault appears and the blower shuts off.
One thing that I'm doing slightly differently is where it says "24 VAC between Orange (NO) wire at the Air Pressure Switch and Yellow (1) wire on the Transformer?" ; I'm actually testing against the grounding screw on the front panel instead of the wire directly on the transformer.
The transformer seems to be hard to reach and I figure the Yellow (1) wire on it goes to ground anyway. I guess I should test as instructed but I don't see an easy way to reach the transformer.

Any and all advice, berating, bbq sauce recipes accepted. Thanks!

Hi. I am adding 100% granular (clorox) to my pool and and still not registering anything in my sight glass. Start is 0 ppm and pool math says to add about 5 to 6 pounds to bring levels into 50s. I need to get to 70ppm for SWG eventually. After 2 days and 90% of 4 pounds dissolved....I am still at 0 ppm or I can still see the dot with tube full.

I also noticed last night in the pool light fine granular sand in the light beam, which I assume is cya.

I have about 1 pound in a floater and 3 pounds in a panty hose sock. I took a water hose and started blasting the sock after 24 house and it looks like a BUNCH of material was released. Pool had a milky look for a few minutes.

I know it takes time, but I am completing my SLAM and want to start the SWG. I have no idea what FC to target with the CYA so low.

I've looked and searched, and cannot find anything on this.
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So I'm using Hayward ProLogic with AquaConnect. Look....this app "works" to a degree. It's pretty painful and plain, but it "works".

I saw this video when looking at Hayward Automation, and this is talking about Omni PL Upgrade Kit ....and I cannot find anything on the Hayward site directly about this product coming out or is out?
This video looks legit, and it looks like it's planned to flat out pull the ProLogic panel, and would put in this, and then "Bam" you get the Omni app and capabilities. That's my wishful, and I'm really wanting to know if this is what I'm thinking. Is anyone familiar with this?

Thanks,
Jason

For a :

Hayward S230T 23" Sand Filter System 1.5-HP 2-Speed Matrix Pump​

This will be coming soon from pool factory . Wondering though which is best type of sand for it ? I currently am between HTH, Mystic white, or another option local pool shop has Rollo sand … Not really sure on the rollo but it’s super cheap . I was recommended to this site I’m new here so thank you guys so much for helping me out . Anyone that has a Hayward sand filter maybe can help me out .

We are in the process of meeting pool builders and collecting bids. I can not seem to find many vinyl pool builders in the area. Grateful for any vinyl pool builder recommendations in the Atlanta metro- northern suburbs area. Thank you.

Just received delivery of my Jacuzzi J315 and waiting for electrical hook up. I have been doing my reading and so far here are my plans once I fill it.
1. Purge with Ahh-some as directed, drain.
2. Purchase K2006 test kit for testing
3. Balance and sanitize water (Calcium>TA>Ph>chlorine)

Two questions:
1. Am I missing anything I should be doing?
2. All I read says to remove the pillows for any purge but this model has the 'Hydrosooth Pillows' which do not look to be removable by myself. Is this an issue?

Thanks

Hi everyone, we just finished building our pool and I noticed that on our new AquaCal Heater/Chiller on Cooling Mode it puts out hot water and cold air from the fan, identical to Heating Mode. I've gone through the settings on the unit and didn't find anything obvious and haven't been able to really find anyone with a similar problem online. I am not getting any fault codes on the unit and after the compressor kicks in on cooling mode, the blue light comes on that says it is cooling. Any guesses as to what the issue could be? Only things I can think of are low refrigerant (should've come pre-charged and no fault code so idk) or a bad controller. Still waiting on the pool builder to come and take a look at it...