I'm trying to redo the waste line off of my multi-valve. My tubing is pretty heavy PCV (I think) 2" layflat. I've tried several different barb fittings but they all leak. I even when to the tractor supply store that used to sell the layflat. They had a fitting that felt right and had two barbs, one at the end and one halfway up. I've tried building up the barb with vinyl tape and used some decent claps too but they all leak past the barbs.
I messed up what I had working, trying to make it better. It's a thick wall piece of PVC that fits in the layflat, but now it's leaking when I put it back together.

I'll learn one day to leave well enough alone, but for now is there a specific type/model/brand of fitting that for a hose end for layflat?

So I kicked the Pool Store to the curb and took everything over mid last year. Just opened pool 2 days ago, water was Green as it is every year, could not see the bottom. Water Temp 56. I put in 2 bottles of Algae 60, 1 bottle Pool Magnet, 1 bottle Scale Inhibitor. Seems like I always have to put a lot of Liquid Shock in at start of season, so I put in 16 Gallons. Tested it 24 Hours later and Chlorine was down to basically zero, PH below 6 (lowest my test kit goes), and CYA which was at about 75 at end of last year is below 30 (lowest on my test kit). Had 13 Gallons of Liquid shock left so I put those in last night. This morning chlorine is zero again. Should I first be putting in some Borax to raise PH instead of trying to get a chlorine residual? And what about my CYA being that low. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Had some slightly cloudy water and our pool service wasn't able to resolve it and stumbled upon TFP! Has been great to dive into the details and learn a ton from all of the resources here. Going through my first SLAM currently, started about 2 days ago. At the beginning measured pH: 7.3, CYA: 70 which gave me a SLAM level of 28. Been maintaining that and water cleared up pretty quick with pump running 24/7, brushing a couple times a day and maintaining SLAM levels.

One piece that's confusing is when it's good to swim again. The SLAM post says "Our SLAM FC levels are designed to break down contaminants quickly while posing no risk to the pool or anyone swimming in it" and "though your free chlorine levels may seem high, you can safely swim in your pool so long as you can see the bottom." Where I've read in some other threads statements like FC levels too high to swim...

So if following the SLAM process for CYA of 70, and the pool has now cleared up, should I wait until FC drops back down to normal levels?

I have a brand new SW pool- unfortunately the SWG initially installed was a dud and pool builder will not be able to install a new one until Monday. In the meantime he seems to have shocked it last week when it was fileld, and stuck a couple of chlorine pucks in the baskets that are there now but it's not going to bring the pool to the correct levels obviously.

Here are my current Taylor kit results:

FC- .5
CC- .5
TA- 90
Calcium- 200ppm
CYA- 0
PH- looked to be 7.6 on color test

My plan is
remove pucks from filter baskets
add HDX bleach - TFP app says 1qt, 3cups, 3oz
add CYA with stocking in filter baskets- app says 11 pounds to target level of 70



I'm most worried about the CYA- I see the preferred method is a sock in the basket or in front of the returns, but it seems like once this level is changed it's a no going back sort of thing so I want to make sure I'm on the right track

The pool will be heated starting Monday and I'm unclear on how much temperature will affect what I'm doing and if the addition of the CYA and bleach will throw the TA and PH out of whack and I'll need to plan for that if it's a wait and retest later situation?

After adding CYA how long do I wait to retest levels? How long do I need to wait before using the pool robot after adding chemicals?

I'm in no way affiliated with the brand, just wanted to share my experience. I just got my dolphin E30 back from warranty service. They fixed the issue, replaced the power cord, gave me new rollers, and filter screens. This cleaner has been in my pool and run almost everyday for 2 years.

I don't know what the issue was, but the machine would not pass its startup tests and would shut down before actually cleaning anything. I tried the at home troubleshooting and nothing would fix it. The warranty process was easy, but I did have to pay for shipping the robot to them.

I hope it lasts another 2 years, and I wouldn't hesitate to to buy another Maytronics machine. I did order this machine from home Depot originally.

Happy summer everyone.

Recently had my IntelliCenter installed and they set it up for the pump to run 24/7 with a higher speed during the day. I have been running my swg 24/7 and relearning how to keep it dialed in because of the swings in FC at night. However I have found it easier to just run in at a higher % during the day and have the swg off at night. It is more predictable. I would like for my pump to stay running 24/7 though and then run the swg at 40% for 10 hours during the day. Is there a way to program that then have the percentage go to 0% at night?

Hello everyone!

Purchased a home with an inground pool two years ago so I'm still new to some of the maintenance and products.

The pool is equiped with an Hayward Aquarite "low salt" chlorinator. I am in Canada where this version is sold.

The cell is now 7 years old and just wanted to get ready for when it dies. I am currently running on an "old" t-cell-ls9-cul which is the equivalent of a Turbo cell 9 but for the low salt version of the Aquarite panel. At least, that is my understanding.

My question is : can I replace the low salt cell with a regular turbo cell 9? The dedicated low salt version of the cell is 300-400 more expensive than the "regular" one.

I'm thinking the regular cell would work fine as it is probably the board that makes it low salt, not the cell. Am I wrong? Would appreciate any other input


Thank you!

@Jimrahbe
Hi Jim, we lost power last night and generator kicked on. Now no power to pentair panel. Can you help troubleshoot?

I need to redo some plumbing between the filter and the pool. Where can I buy the unions that thread into the filter and salt cell (see photos circled in red). Its a Pentair Clean and Clear filter and a Intellichlor.

I have a very old Tiger River Spa. It has a Watkins Jet pump and Watkins No-Fault heater. It has been running with no issues for years. The other night we went to use it and water was lukewarm. I realized the breaker had tripped. When I tried resetting the breaker it keeps tripping. Doing a search online yielded the most plausible theory was a bad heating element. So I disconnected the hot from the heating element and still trips breaker. Then I reconnected the heating element and disconnected the Water circulating pump and breaker stays on. Then confusion set in because I plugged that back in and disconnect my Jet pump and breaker also stays on. Is it possible BOTH are bad at once or does one rely on the other or something? How can I isolate which part I need to replace?

Hi all,
I received an alert on my Hayward OmniHub app last night that a new firmware update is available. I've been running the latest firmware R4.8.1 since installing the OmniHub controller last Summer. The new firmware version number was not listed on the app or Hayward's Firmware website. I managed to find the new version number (R5.0.0) on the controller itself, under the download OTA menu.

I've been trying to find any reference or release-notes about the new firmware, without much luck. The controller firmware version is mentioned in this new Hayward "Smart Power Transformer" PDF doc, so maybe it's just some kind of "lighting" update for the controller?

Appreciate any info or release-notes someone may find.

Maybe I am missing something here but I purchased one of these from Marina Pool Spa and Patio last May just to now be told by Pentair I only had a 60 day parts warranty. Robot only worked for 4 months last season and now is an expensive anchor.

Machine starts with tracks going in one direction, stops then goes in the same direction, stops and that's it. Doesn't even test the impeller. Impeller cover has been removed, zero debris. Tracks have been inspected and no blockage. Never used an extension cord.

I'm a little mad obviously. Wish I would've known buying from a recommended vendor came with such poor warranty.

I apologize if this has been addressed somewhere and I couldn't find it. My pool has multiple 3/4" threaded returns and cannot seem to find any good options to add eyeball or other fittings to help direct circulation. The pool does have two standard sized 1.5" returns so I have idea why the smaller returns were installed too. The pool was built about 1987 if that helps at all.
Thanks in advance!

Hi There, We just opened our pool and our aquarite SWG is not working (no lights/display). We have been trouble shooting using the info provided through this forum (the Hayward Aquarite SWG Further Reading page and related threads). We seem to have the same problem a a thread from Aug 13 2021 posted by GPCMommy. We also had one of the yellow wires that looked burnt at the end. We have cut/crimped the wire, replaced both bridge rectifiers and also replaced the fuse. We have power coming out of one yellow wire (the one that looked burnt) but not the other one. No power in either of the black or red wires connected to the bridge rectifiers. Visually everything looks good. Any ideas what we should try next? It is roughly 10 years old.

Guys help please… what do i do?!?!? I have been doing the SLAM method for a few days, nothing is really pointing in the direction of algae, my pressure gauge hasnt even moved since i started slam i mean my phosphates are relatively pretty high, i know alkalinity is a bit high, but it was this color from day one, just filled the pool from the well, i figured metals was the issue but 3 days ago i added leslies no metal and as you can see in water test.. no sign of copper, and slight trace of iron.. the lady at the pool store is telling me to floc, but i know you guys do not recommend that. The water has only been in the pool since 05/05/24

I am currently filling my pool from empty. Its 25k gallons, so its taking awhile to fill, currently at 18 hours and counting. I my CH is good, but my TA is low, and PH is high so I would like to start filtering to add baking soda and acid to get those in line as it continues to fill.

Can I run off my main drains with the waterline currently below returns?

New to having a pool but this is where I’ll learn how…

Just opened pool 2 days ago.
Geting Code 120. Cell is working and making Chlorine. I see little bubbles and when I test water directly near return there is chlorine coming out.
I do have to SLAM it, like last year...but not the point right now....

Says code is due to bad cell, bad cord or cold water. Since I am making chlorine, I assume cell and cord are OK? Water temp is about 60-63. Could that be the reason for Code 120?
Salinity 3500

If one dives deep enough into the Wiki, there are some important points that I feel should be included as a note on the above page that the average site peruser would more likely find:

"NOTE: Dry acid should NOT be used in plaster pools or pools with a SWG. Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster and degrade the coatings on SWG plates. Sulfates can only be removed by draining water."

(There is already a similar short note about this in the new Pool Math app descriptions for pH Down/Dry Acid.)

I'm looking for suggestions/options on an equivalent replacement for our Single Speed SuperFlo 1HP with a VS pump (ran pump 16hrs/day last year to keep pool heated and clear, electricy was crazy, so was the sound)
Our pool is 10k, 1 return & skimmer, pump is located ~1ft higher than water surface, about 30' away from return / 50' from skimmer.

We have a hayward salt cell; and for mostly timer, easy schedule; heater fireman switch, i have installed a Pentair IntelliConnect.

What I've seen as a close match to size and power would be the Pentair SuperFlo VS (listed at Doheny's): Pentair SuperFlo VS

Are there any other options that would pair well with my other equipment (salt cell, intelliconnect). I'm not opposed to just using the intelliconnect for on/off and fireman switch if a hayward would pair better with our cell and run the schedule from the pump's interface. We would like to keep the price point around the $1.4k-$1.6k range

Thanks in advance

"To lower pH use either muriatic acid."

Well Amazon just delivered it.

It came in a box, in box, in a box. Got the Russian dolls unpacked and here it is.

Does pollen eat up chlorine?

Hello all!

I am getting flame rollout from around the ignitor on my Raypak.

I have taken apart everything and thoroughly cleaned it, I have checked connections on the ignitor components and I am still getting visible flame rollout from the ignitor area.

From the picture you can see where they are rolling out.

Any suggestions about what I can try? Could it be a fault with the ignitor? a hole or something maybe?

My situation is the following. My pool in Aruba is only about 78F without heating. I would like to heat my pool to about 84 degrees. The constant wind cools the pool, also the evaporation, so although the air temperature is constantly around 90F during the day, the pool water is not more than 78-79F. I can't ship a pool heat pump, the cost can be really expensive including shipping and taxes. I have a Bowman titanium heat exchanger 135, which has 75k BTU heat load at 140F degrees. My pool is about 8000 gallons. I can use some boiler water for the heat exchanger, but I am at loss to calculate what the capacity of this boiler should be. The boiler will be installed in my pool shed where I have also the pool filter, pump and the heat exchanger and I will insulate the water lines. Does anybody have any knowledge about how big this boiler needs to be? I have some knowledge about the circuit, I need a pump and an Aquastat for the boiler circuit. The Bowman heat exchanger will be installed as per their specifications on the pool line. The boiler heated water will enter the heat exchanger and heat the pool water. But what type of electric boiler do I need, how big should it be? There is no natural gas or propane in Aruba, but I can eventually install some solar panels to produce the electricity for this boiler, so hopefully this will not cost me an arm and a leg. Thank you so much, I hope someone will know the answer.

I have a Compool panel that I've upgraded to EasyTouch Upgrade many years ago. I broke one of the plastic tabs for the bottom right circuit breaker and went looking to the internet for a replacement bus bar. I was able to find Pentair 520281 between $150-$225. And aftermarket bus bars around $75. Once I saw it was made by Siemens, I searched Home Depot and found this item in stock at my local store, it was $66 on sale. I used the bus bar only and recycled everything else. Swapped it out in about an hour. The mounting holes lined up with my Panel box. It works great!

Hello! We had a leak over the winter which has since been fixed. When it was first fixed, we opened, added chlorine, and just used the main drain and side filters for circulate the water and the water was clear (image attached). The wait to get the liner back in place and adding more water is what took longer than expected which turned the water green.

We’ve added two large jugs of chlorine because the water is too cold for our salt cell. The water cleared up but is very cloudy (image attached). I tested this morning via my Taylor kit (results in image).

I‘ve added the recommended 4lbs of Borax and will add conditioner later today (need to replenish). We will not add any additional chlorine to get levels down.

My questions - can the PH make the water cloudy? Any other thoughts? Does clarifier work? Help!

I am a bit confused about target levels when slamming the pool.
When I turn on the slam button, it says my slam target is 24 and I should add 7 gallons, 1 qt. based on my pool readings. My chlorination is off, pool is running, and it is raining lightly all day today. When do I check to see if the chlorine level has reached 24? And when I check the chlorine level and enter that in the log, do I turn on the slam button again, and then get a new slam target? When I did that last year, my slam target kept getting higher until my chlorine level ended up at around high 30’s, which seemed ridiculously high, and took forever to return to a safe swimming level.
2nd question… If, after testing chlorine either later today or tonight, and it is not 24, do I add the required amount from the new slam target tonight, or tomorrow during the day? Tomorrow it is supposed to be sunny, so do I wait until tomorrow night?
FYI - PH - 7.2, CYA 70, CC 1

Thank you in advance for your help.

Having analysis paralysis here, in part because I’m an DIY’er that’s never done a pool install before and I don’t know what I don’t know.

Installing a Pool Factory Steel 15’x26’x54” “permanent” AGP. I’ve leveled the install location to within 1” by digging down, and have 4” of CA6 crusher with fines that will be compacted to level for the build to start on. There was significant grade, it’s essentially level with grade at one end and about 22” down to level on the other.

The Pool Factory instructions indicate 3” of sand inside the pool walls plus 4” cove for a sand bottom wall height of 7”. I did order the foam cove with the pool, so i would not have to build with sand.

3” seems like a lot, but maybe it’s because of the bottom plates that tie the side buttress posts together? With this in mind, do I have an opportunity to use XPS foam here?

3” is a lot of XPS foam, it would have to be a couple of layers - which I’m ok with, but is there something with the bottom plates that makes sand a better choice?

What do you all think?

Hello all, New the the community! I'll start with my setup.

In ground Fiberglass Pool - 10,200 Gallons
Hayward C3030 Cartridge filter
AquaRite Low Salt Generator (AQR-LS-CUL)
Hayward 150K heater
Safety cover (water goes through but not debris or sunlight)
Hayward VS pump



Spent an arm and a leg to have a company open my pool last year, but what got me was I was still responsible to vacuum and scrub the pool, get the water tested and purchase chemicals. So this year I decided to do it myself.

With the pool closed, I had an issue with a racoon and a family of grackles who would visit nightly and relieve themselves on the cover. After daily removals of the poop and rinsing the cover, I decided to open the pool. Well that didn't help as the racoon would enter the pool and poop on the landing. It wasn't easy but we got him safely relocated to a nearby conservation land/park. However I still have an issue with the grackles which I'm hold will last a few more weeks while their babies learn to fly.

My cartridges weren't completely dry when I placed them in a garbage bag and stored for the winter as a very small account of green mold was visible on some pleats. Given how green my pool was I installed them with the expectation that they would be cleaned in a week or two once the pool was cleaned.

First opening after a light vacuum of the stairs. The main swim area was too green for me to see the vacuum head so I stopped.


Took a sample in to a local pool store who used a LaMotte to provide the following readings.
PH 8.4
TA 110
TDS 1100
Salt 800
FC 0.3
TC 0.3
CYA 5
Phosphate 52

Added 200 ML of 31.4% murtic acid to get the PH down.. Using el cheapo test strips it looked like it reached 7.6.
Added 3.4L bottle of (10.8%) chlorine and tested again.. FC 10+ using test strips. After 24 hours it dropped below FC 5 so I did this daily (6 days) until I consumed 5 full bottles.
Vacuumed entire pool twice

Today


Water is clear enough to see to the bottom, sadly still dealing with grackle poop daily.

Water test results:
PH 7.9
TA 112
TDS 300
Salt 700
FC 0.2
TC 0.2
CYA 5
Phosphate 109

Since then I've added 232 ML of 31.4% murtic acid, and test strips show what looks like a .4 drop.

I'm looking for guidance on my next steps.
- Pool is 65F - Weather is between 59-70 during the day, as low as 47 at night.
- I'm leaving the solar cover off for now (until grackle issue is resolved)
- I bought 5KG of dry stabilizer (should I clean the cartridges first given the initial mold and condition of the pool?) PSI around 15 with pump on highest speed
Hayward sticker on SWG suggest the following
FC 1-3
PH 7.2-7.8
TA 80-120
CYA 20-30
CAL 125-250
Salt 1200-1800

Any suggestions on my next steps? I don't plan on turning on the heater nor swimming in the pool until our long weekend in May (24)

Thanks in advance!