hello,
we bought a house (texas) with a pool and moving in soon. this will be our first pool so many things to read on. pool was built 2 years ago, vinyl, salt maybe, 20k gallon, service by local pool company. that’s all the info we got. thought i can get more info here. i’m planning to maintain it myself if it’s not too terrible. planning to buy the taylor kit and try it out. i included picture of the system. what do i have? where’s the pump, filter ( type?), generator? what can or should i control or change? is water loss a thing? do i replace the water loss with just water from the hose? any daily/weekly/monthly/yearly things to do will be greatly appreciated.

Our SWG quit working and we found out that this amp, I think it's called, needs to be changed (the bottom grey one). It won't reset when my husband tries to flip it. My husband is an electrician, and has wired many a house, but he doesn't know low voltage. He's hoping someone on here can give him advice on what to do and where to buy a new one. Is it something he can get at Home Depot or is it only sold at pool suppliers? TIA for your help.

Is there any point in using a degreaser when opening the pool, to help with gunk removal from the vinyl?

Hello all
I just completed a complete overhaul of my pool. About 10k gallon plaster pool that I had resurfaced with pebble tec. All new equipment which includes:
Pentair intellicenter i5PS
Pentair IC40 SWG
Pentair CC150 Cartridge Filter
Pentair Superflo 2.2HP VSP

I followed all the recommendations for the new pebble surface as in daily brushing and just using liquid chlorine to maintain the chemistry for the first month. I am now at about the six week mark and I am ready to start up the SWG. I should add that this is my first time working with a salt pool so I know nothing except what I have tried to read up on! The pool chemistry, using a Taylor test kit is as follows:
FC=4
CC=0
PH=7.9
TA=90
CH=260
CYA=34 (A bit low but deathly afraid of overshooting!)
Salt=3400

My question: When I energized the IC40 for the first time (about 10 minutes ago) it came back with a salt reading of 2800. Of course this is telling me I have a low salt condition as Pentair recommends 3600. Now I tend to think that the Taylor test result of 3400 is way more accurate than the onboard IC40 result of 2800. How do I proceed going forward? Add a bit more salt? I added 40lb bags of salt, one at a time, and tested after 24 hours with each bag to determine how much one 40lb bag would raise the salt ppm. Turns out each bag raised it by 600ppm, according to the Taylor test. Water temp is about 79 degrees. Why is there such a large divergence in the two salt readings? I really don’t want to over shoot the salt content but I do want the IC40 to be happier. How should I proceed? Will the two salt readings get closer together over time, as in does a brand new IC40 need a “break in period” to get better salt readings?
Again, newbie at this salt water stuff and any and all help is appreciated!
Thanks for your time.

I’ve always had pool company open and close. Last year I opened myself! I did have them close, but I discovered all the things that weren’t being done and that we should be doing. I took a lot of extra care last year to prep and finish up. They never winterized my laminars all these years. Each year, I’d open, and it would look like an animal imploded- sludge everywhere inside the housing. It was disgusting. Last season, I cleaned, drained, disconnected, and turned upside down for storage.

Opened my first one- nearly dry, pretty darn clean. No sludge. Yay!!

2nd. No sludge. But full of water. This lowes bucket is nearly 1/3 full of what I scooped out.

I would have done all of this after they closed.

Thoughts? Rainwater not draining?

Do you guys put anyone in the bottom of your laminars housing? Mine is just a hole to the earth with no clearance!

I’m wanting to purchase a nice pool water tester. Is it possible to purchase one like what they use at the pool stores? One that works with a computer and I can print out step by step instructions?

First time poster but long time lurker.

I had to replace my 2 speed Jandy pump a month or so ago. Moved to Jandy PLUS HP 2.7 VSP. In the past all my work as been done by my builder but their prices went way up this year and a local pool repair company had much better rates so I had them come out and replace it. Unfortunately I think his tech had no idea or just didn't care how he setup the pump and had essentially every speed set to 2700. I do have a heat pump as well. We spend the majority of our time in the pool between 4 and 7 pm.

In addition this new pool group actually installed the wrong pump as I ordered the one with the speed set but they installed it without. The have offered to either refund the difference and/or come install a speed set.

1) Is there any real need for a speed set if I have aqualink?

2) After reviewing the site I think I got it but wanted to see if you all had any concerns or suggestions with this setup?

Settings:
1 Filter 1800
2 Low Speed 2000
3 Cleaner 2750
4 Mid Speed 2400
5 Temp 1 3000
6 Temp 2 2500
7 High Speed 2800
8 unused

Schedule (summer)
Filter 8:00 - 8:30
High Speed 8:31 - 11:00
Cleaner 8:45-10:45
Low Speed 11:01 - 4:00
Mid Speed 4:01 - 7:00
Filter 7:01 - 9:00

Schedule (Winter)
Filter 8:30 - 9:00
High Speed 9:01 - 11:00
Cleaner 9:15-10:45
Low Speed 11:01 - 4:00
Filter 4:01 - 5:30

We just bought a house with a pool and I'm on the learning curve to figure how to take care of it. TFP has been a great resource.

One item I recommend folks who bought a house with a pool do is to check in whether the prior owner replaced any items with an incorrect part number. I was completely unaware that the prior owners (or their pool service) replaced the skimmer float valve with the wrong part. This surfaced while trying to figure out what my particular pool components were with the help of @JamesW.

Turns out this is a particularly bad error. As the photo below shows, what I had was something with a smaller diameter. This makes it worse than useless as the edge of the disk actually covered the primary input line to the pool filter/heater pump (again thanks to @JamesW for helping me to know that)! For a while (since we first moved in) I had wondered why the waterfall from the spa into the pool was rather choppy. Turns out this was the problem: the pump had been working extra hard as it was being somewhat starved of water so the flow to the spa was reduced. Moreover, there was one occasion where the waterfall just mysteriously stopped. In hindsight, the water level dropped too much and the float valve was unable to do it's job (i.e. switch the water source from the skimmer to the main drain).

Once I replace this item (with the o-ring it came with -- which was also missing) the water fall started working beautifully with full force. Also I tested reducing water level ... this time the valve worked ... it dropped as designed to seal the skimmer from the input and all water was drawn from the 'equalizer' (main drain) with the waterfall still working. Although I can't hear a difference I'm sure my pump is working better as well.

Another, perhaps less important item, was that the Wier gate was missing entirely. I bought one of those and installed it as well. The cost being a drop in the bucket of a very expensive home. Note: the Wier gate had rough sides that rubbed a little against the skimmer and didn't rotate smoothly (which is perhaps why the original was discarded) so I had to sand both sides ~1/16"... now it moves easily and works to pull surface debris much more effectivly than without one

Hello all. Any recs for Hayward Aquarite S3 SWG and Hayward VSP installation services in SoCal? Currently have a Hayward 400K heater, Hayward 6020 DE filter, and single speed Hayward for 20k gallon plaster pool.

Hi all. I have an inground plaster pool/spa. One of the return jets in the spa moves sporadically up and down side to side etc. Not just the water but also the physical jet component. There is flow coming out of it. The other 4 return jets are working just fine. What’s causing this and how do I fix this issue?

I just happened to be hanging over the edge. Because my water isn’t moving yet, I was able to see all the black yuck behind this light! What do I do? Two of them are like this.

Hello
I dropped water level around October. Took 1st pic Dec 9th and 2nd pic today. Due to the drop of my above ground 10k gallon pool here in east Tennessee, was wondering if you think i have a leak or is it evaporating? I was also adding 30min of water every 2 days last summer.

Hey all, I just found this forum and did some reading on levelling.
Anyways, I am looking to do an AGP (18X48 Sam's club best way).
There's two spots I can install it in my yard. One is the preferred location by me and my wife, but the slope here as you can see in the pictures gets bad. All the rocks there is a French drain also. Will it work in this location? I'll have to dig down to the lowest point to try and get as level as possible. I don't want to do sand. I think I'll do the harbor freight flooring taped together.

Other location is relatively flat, but blocks my shed and gate.

The whole yard when it rains gets pretty damp and idk if that is a concern too. The French drain really helps clear it out though.

Hi, the pool company had the pump set up for me at 3400 because the pool equipment is about 70 to 80 feet away from the pool. I was playing around today trying to modify it so that I can have it run full speed during the day and then low speed overnight. I don’t know if I did it right does anybody have any experience with this and be able to help me set it up? Thank you so much for any input or help. right now I’m nervous. I just messed it all up by even trying to play with it.

What could this be. I scratched on it and it comes off after while.

Hello,

I live in Canada and my pool has now all the water melted. We didn’t covered it since in here they recommended us to leave it uncovered so that it fills in with the water from the snow. We only covered with a net in autum.

I have a question regarding the SWA. It is still too cold to turn it on, the water is around 5-6 degrees but I am concerned about the water developing bacteria. What do people usually do? Do they use chlorine tablets or liquid chlorine in the meantime? Or should I just not be concerned and turn my SWA on once the water is warm enough?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thank you

I will be switching my chlorine Stenner setup to muriatic acid (installing SWG). I understand diluting the acid is recommended. I'm planning on using a 4:1 dilution.

When adding water and acid to the storage container while there is still some diluted acid in it, is it better to:
1-add water first (but isn't adding water to acid not good) then the acid?
2-add the acid first, then the water (again, adding water to acid- no bueno)?
3-dilute the acid in a different container, then try to pour that into the first container (can't see how to do that without getting acid all over my pool equipment)?

I'm guessing the first option would be OK if the diluted acid is weak enough, but want to make sure before I make a bad mistake.

Just installed this motor on what used to be a single speed whisperflo pump. It works fine with builtin schedule b but when i set the dip switches for communication with The Pentair panel pump is not turning on. I am using a Cat6 ethernet cable and i have run it through the same conduit as the power wires. Could that be causing problems. I certainly haven’t figured out how to set a variety of speeds but selected VS in the intelliflo pump menu and set a single speed for now. But pump will not turn on. Any tips?

Hey everyone,

I'm coming up on about three years since my pool was built, and over time, the calcium hardness levels have steadily increased. I live in the Las Vegas area, where we're known to have hard water.

I'm currently looking into reverse osmosis services in the valley and was wondering if anyone here has used them. If so, what were your experiences? How much should I expect to pay? Is there anything I can do to help prevent calcium hardness levels from rising over time—like installing a water softener for the outdoor water supply? Also, how often is everyone replacing/reverse osmosing their pool water?

I’d really appreciate any input. Thanks!

I'm looking into purchasing a saltwater generator. Not looking to break the bank but also want quality. Ive read you want to get 2x the size. Current setup is 19k - 20k estimate. It's a 27 ft x 54 inch. What does everyone recommend

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Mastertemp 400 with no fan spin up....or backwards spin up. I've read through a few of the other threads on here regarding the same issue: Service heater light and a humming fan motor. If I give the motor a spin in the correct direction, it will spin up and heater fires normall.

I'm pretty handy with schematics/meters and meggers so I ran some checks based off the diagram @JamesW provided. Mine is wired for 240 using the plug so I checked supply ac voltage on the red and black wires to the motor. Measured 239vac

Pulled the back off the motor and removed the capacitor, unplugged the motor plug. Ran some megaohm checks (insulation checks) on shorts. No windings are shorted to ground.

Black to yellow: 11.3 ohms
Red to blue: 11.4 ohms
C1-C2 1.3 ohms
C1- yellow: .1 ohms
C1-white: 11.3 ohms
C1-black: 11.3 ohms

C2 to Yellow: open
C2 to black: open
C2 to white: open
capacitor was hard to measure since I have a FLuke 88, just climbs and climbs. I'm assuming the CAP is a run cap and not a start cap. Usually if a motor has 2 caps then one is start and one is run

Megger checks:
Red-Yellow: open circuit
White-yellow: closed circuit
White-black: closed circuit
CP1-white: closed circuit
CP1-Yellow: closed circuit
Cp2-Yellow: closed circuit

My best guess is I have a bad start winding in this mini motor. Anyone know if you can just get a elect new motor or anyone know if a rewind shop can rewind it? Dropping 4500 for a new heater seems ridiculous when I can change out the motor or have it rewound.

Anyhow, gimme your best guess based off what I did

PS I did notice this strap, looks burned.

.

We’ve got a new build that’s finally getting the plastering done next week. We’re going with Pebble Sheen. We’re building a 26k inground pool and our pool builder says it will be a two day process - pebble sheen applied the first day, then acid wash the second day (and then filled with water the second day, in the afternoon).

Our forecast is showing wind both of those days - 10-20 mph generally. Is it problematic to do the final finish application while there is wind? Should I be concerned?

Thanks for any help.

Is there a mechanism to download a multi-page conversation I'm involved in? It would be nice to have a PDF containing an entire conversation. I could of course do a Print to PDF of each page, and then combine them in my PDF editing software, but that all feels a bit rudimentary. Just want to see if there's a more built in way to export conversations. Thanks.

Hi, I recently purchased a new home with an old pool that I believe is about 20K gallons and kidney shaped. I am thinking through simplifying and modernizing some of the management of the pool. The installed mechanicals currently are only:

Pentair DE Filter
Pentair 1.5HP pump

I recently purchased an AquaCal HeatWave SQ200R electric heater (the house is all electric) and ran 100 amp service to the pool area. I am having a pool company install the heater and open the pool week week.

At the same time, I would like to modernize the system by converting it to salt water and possibly to add some automation. My current thinking from reading these forums is to go with the circupool rj-45 but I am tempted by the core control 55.

Given how bare bones the system is I’d love any advice on what makes sense to do on day 1 to allow for the most optionality and expandability as I grow into the system and managing the pool myself. Thanks

Good morning!!

Asking for some reassurance from those that have gone before me. I have used a solar cover almost every year since I have had my pool (since 2013). I typically buy the 12 mil ones (maybe even 16?). And they only last about 3 years . After reading on here - I decided to save the money and go for the 8. I just placed it and it feels SO flimsy. Will this actually last three years??? I would rather return it now and get the 12 or 16 mil with the fancy upgraded verbiage. A lot of what I read on here was pointing to just saving the money and go basic and 8mil

Thank you for the insight!!

Just joined, so please get me in line if I'm out. I'm facing the decision of going with an aftermarket SWG. I can't find any mention of this (APX PERFORMANCE P40 Aftermarket Replacement Cell)
manufacturer on TFP, but this unit seems to top all of my google searches for SWGs.
I'd much appreciate hearing from anyone with experience with aftermarkets, specifically the APX.

Doing absorbic acid treatment today and don’t have access to Polyquat 60. I know poor planning. Is there another algicide I can use?

I'm very thankful to have found this forum.

My pool:
-26,000 gallon 10’ diving pool
- In ground (pop up) cleaning system
- Water feature
- Large connected jacuuzi
- Heater

Current equipment
- 2hp dying pump connected to every pool system
- Hayward DE6020 filter
-Hayward Northstar 2 hp pump connected to jacuzzi jets
Return Manifold
-2” pipe for main pool return to pop ups
- 1” pipe to aerator and 1” to mystery line
-1.5” pipe to water feature
- 1.5” pipe to pool wall ports
Suction to Pump
-2” drain
-2” filter basket
-2” jacuzzi
Jacuzzi 2.5” pioe from Northstar pump to jets
Heater looks like 2.5” as well
See photos

My pool was green when we moved in. Pool guy said he knew the house and the previous owner never wanted to put in a new pump or filter and the current pump couldn't handle the entire system. The filter pressure has been over 32 at times.

I replaced the DE grids and flushed the return lines. I adjusted the valves to out more suction focussed on the pool. I've been able to get the pool water in great shape through weeks of winter cleanings and $100’s of dollars in chemicals. The pump has a terrible drag on start up and is about to die. I literally spent 1-2 hours daily brushing, vacuuming and cleaning the pool. It's time to have the pool system take some work off my hands.

I bought a 2.7 hp VS pump and 525sq ft filter I plan to instal when I have the plumbing figured out.
-Would it be a benefit to the system for me to run 2.5” pipe into the pump, pump to filter, and filter to return manifold?
- is it worth it to increase all exposed plumbing to a half size bigger?
- Would it be beneficial to insert a flow meter or vacuum and pressure gages…or both? Is the juice worth the squeeze for the cost?
Between the conflicting information I've received from 2 pool professionals I've decided to research for myself. The first look guy told me new filter, 2.5 hp pump and bypass the heater. The second guy said 3hp pump and never bypass the heater.

I'm estimating the TDH to be around 55, not 100% sure. The flow rate for the pump filter combo is appropriate. I want to have the juice to run anything and everything I have on the system at will. I also want to reduce the time and effort to maintain the pool. Eventually I will install a salt system. Not because they are amazing in Arizona, but because the wife insists and I don't mind putting the effort in to maintain a salt system. I just can't keep up the daily work and chemical costs. We do have a tree, not ours, the craps in our pool daily.

That was a mind vomit of information, so if you hung in until the end I appreciate you. I just need to figure out the proper size of pipe to offer the best gain and reliability without instigating bother issues and need to know if adding flow meters or gages would help me in the future.

Ps. My new pump will be at least a foot away from the suction line elbow. The filter input and return will have appropriate swept elbows and straight line length prior to bends. Thanks in advance.

CJ

Using Pool Math v510 on iOS and macOS.

When clicking through pH Levels, it defaults to pH Down / Dry Acid but if I click on the menu to change to a different chemical it always shows the last thing I selected. For example:
- Shows pH Down / Dry Acid - click on 29% Muriatic Acid
= The display still shows pH Down / Dry Acid, but the Recommendation changes to the correct calculation
- Click Lower with... again and click on 29% Muriatic Acid
= The Lower with... and Recommendation now matches the calculation.

I also noted that if Lower with... is set to 14.5% Muriatic Acid when the current pH is 8.2, TA is 50, and target pH is 7.6, the Recommendation is Add 0.0oz or None to reach your target. I assume that is not correct.

Good day to all.
I fired the pool store about 2 weeks ago and JUST completed my second test using the
TF-PRO

I decided to clean the filter before adding CYA
I see all these spots in the filter. Have never seen this in over 15 years of cleaning the filter.

This is a new filter.

By the way, the pool looks clear and good right now.

Please have a look at the photo and my test results. ANY IDEAS ?

Appreciate your thoughts on this.

Thanks