Well, I hope to be through the worst of it and I’m not feeling too bad just four weeks in a sling , PT and then a little bit of time to recover and I hope I’ll be better than new.

Alright this is a long shot I'm sure but can anyone figure out the Make and Model of these steps?
I did see a Post by superdave5599 who at had them in 2023 but there is no info about what the steps are.

So if anyone here can help I would be beyond apperceive

Thank You in advance

Hey Guys, first time posting and not sure if I’m in the right section, but I’ve got a question if there are any experienced tilers in here.

We are a pool construction company down here in Georgia, and we’re building a vanishing edge with a 1”x2” glass tile wall on the backside where the spillover will be. We’ve don’t them in the past no problem, however, this go around the builder poured a 14” thick wall that we are tying our pool to. We are looking to put some sort of anti fracture or uncoupling membrane on that vertical wall to prevent any movement in the tile.

I do not have hardly any experience in the tile realm other than I used Mapeis anti fracture membrane on my back porch before laying some travertine. Reading the instructions that will not apply to our application on this pool. We have also used schluter ditra on decks, but I can’t find anything about vertical applications on walls, or recommendation for small glass tile. Any recommendations?

Good Morning, I was wondering if someone can give me some advice on my pool and a high water table. I have a 30,000 gallon pool and hired a pool company to replace my liner. They started to clean out the bottom and water started rushing in. I have a well point already installed and they are using 2 sump pumps, but water keeps rushing in. All the hoses are directing to the street so they aren’t in the yard. I just don’t know that this company is working fast enough because the pool will dry they will leave it then come back and the water is back. It eventually pumped out sand and they removed the sand and now we are back with water coming out. Can someone please advise on what I should do to keep this water from coming from the earth thank you so much

Hi everyone,

I noticed after a recent heavy rain that there’s a small amount of water pooling around the edge of my pump pad. At first, I thought it might be a plumbing leak, but after checking all the visible connections, everything looks dry when the pump is running. It seems like the rainwater might be seeping in around the pad itself.

I briefly spoke to a concrete contractor who was doing some work nearby, and he said sometimes these small shifts or tiny cracks in concrete pads can let rainwater sneak through, especially if the ground underneath settles a bit over time.

Has anyone had something similar happen with their pump setup? Wondering if it’s worth patching the pad or just keeping an eye on it unless it gets worse.

Thanks for any help!

Thanks for letting me join. We bought a small (12 foot) above ground pool for my daughter about 3 years ago and it’s been a learning curve

I’ve got to grip with the basics but am now “improving things” as I go forward. New pump & filter using glass media this season along with an air source heat pump for cold British weather.

I’ve converted the small pump housing it came with to just a skimmer and all seems good with strong water circulation.

I’ve been using the basic test strips but now realise I need better information and am waiting on a proper kit to arrive, now that I understand more about the chemistry of the water etc. We do have very hard water where we live apparently.

I look forward to continuing to learn and hopefully I can give a bit of help back from my own experiences over the last few seasons.

Please excuse the tangle of hoses in the photo, that’s from test set up day and I will be making it a lot neater now I have everything sussed out

I'm looking to buy some standard #10 expanding rubber winterizing plugs with nylon wing nut. Where do you buy yours from?
I've seen them range from $3.50ea -$12.50ea! Is there really a difference between them.
Online reviews are all over the place.

Thanks in advance.

Hey all - I don’t know why, and I’m sure this could apply to all members, but I sometimes go weeks without thinking about posting something, especially when the pool’s closed.

But the winter cover is off!

I took it off myself this past Saturday, which was kind of a bear but once I got a game plan it was folded up into its handy bag in short order.

The water was as clear as when we closed the pool back in early November.

The cover I just undid all of the tensioners pulled it down to one end then filed it in 4’ wide sections, lengthwise, and shop vac’s it as I went. I’m sure it would have been much more of a snap with two people, but that’s one less thing the ooo guys have to do when they come.

And yes I do want to eventually open/close myself, but I need to watch these guys for a few times before I undertake that.

Anyhow, the past few days I spent a few hours each day blowing leaves around and then using a vacuum cleaner to clean the artificial grass, which sounds absurd, and likely looked so to my neighbors, but it works great.

I’ve been dropping some liquid chlorine in since I haven’t put the solar cover on.

And one other thing of note: it’s noticeably quiet without the pump running, or the heater for that matter. But once the system’s started up, it’ll run 24/7 until we close (1.5hp single speed). We did have the electrician put a timer on the pad, and I may elect to put the pump on a timer at some point just to see how it changes anything, but I like the idea of constantly moving/skimming/filtering, and the salt cell constantly making chlorine since the yard is basically full sun all day.

Any, looking forward to reading back through the forums for things I want to chime in or ask about.

Looking for advice on the better sequest products. I'm contending with some staining issues and input is valued. Copper is a big one but are some better than others?

Help me understand chlorine. We opened our pool last week. Pretty quickly it went from green to a teal color and our pool store (we love them and they aren’t trying to sell extra chemicals) said that is the dead algae. It’s 30k gallon chlorine pool with a vinyl liner. When we opened we dumped in 8 gallons of liquid shock and algaecide. Fast forward and we have been dumping 4 gallons every day since and it’s not holding chlorine. Our cya is 30. Our ph and alkalinity are both in the normal range and so is our hardness. There are no phosphates. On Tuesday we decided to add floc to get rid of the cloudiness. We’ve been letting it rest since then (2 days). It got a little bit clearer and we could see the ground in the shallow end and barely in the deep end. But, because it was sitting for two days a little algae is starting to grow. Then I discovered pool math and I followed pool math and slammed it with thr powder chlorine. I added 5 bags (per the app recommendation) and two hours later I tested it and the free chlorine is still at 1ppm. I just added 5 more bags. What else can I be doing to help this pool hold chlorine? It’s driving me nuts.

Hi! Am I overlooking this feature? I see that I can visit each forum individually and Mark Read, but not how to do all with a single button press.

Worked fine last year, then got switched to its new app Pentair Pool and won't connect at all. Unplugged, reset, etc.
Nothin'.

Any ideas??

Thanks everyone!

I found one old thread on the blue nexus. Is anyone using the pro version? I don’t find much reviews.

I just purchased a scuba s1 pro and it will not pair with the app. When i use the app it does not have the correct information for the device wifi and will not connect. Can anyone shed some light on this process?

We just moved and after being stored for 4 years I tried my M500 in our new home's fiberglass pool. It doesn't climb well and missed dirt on the steps. I also got an impeller 1 error message a few times but there really wasn't much of anything on the impeller. Looking on the Maytronic's site I found two dealers listed in my area. The first said that they only service the S20 model that they sell and I will xcall the other today. Now I'm wondering if I can fix the M500 myself or to just buy another robot.

I don't want to spend another 1k on a robot. The current sale prices on the Palmate bots has my interest piqued. I can't find much info on them but at $500 I suspect that this is only a few hundred more than a Dolphin repair when shipping costs are factored in to the equation.

I too have 3 non working ariels all with different problems. I would love to get them out of my shed. Would gladly sell

These look really good, seem to have recently come to the USA, has anyone tried one and confirm that its good or not? Particularly worried if it gets stuck on the drains like most seem to do lately.

Hello all
I am getting ready to open my pool. Today I disconnected my pump so that I could lub the O-rings. I can not get the O-rings to stay in their grooves during reassembly. The suction side one mostly stays in place, the one on the discharge will not stay in the groove. Any suggestions

Thanks

My aftermarket 40,000 gallon ‘T-15 equivalent’ cell from Leslies finally fatigued its way to ineffective status after about 12,000 hours (3 years at 11hrs/day). I just replaced it with this other aftermarket see-thru version called Simple Cell from poolguysupply for $399 and it seems to be working well. I keep the original ~$900 Hayward Aquarite T-15 cell stored as a spare.

Always wanting a better or cheaper DIY alternative, I thought I would see if there are some combos of metallurgists or chemists who might be familiar with the manufacturing process, such that it might be possible to re-coat the old cell? Some space-age titaniumish uraniumish metal paint from Sherwin Williams? A crazed thought perhaps. First problem is opening the sealed case and then exposing the plates. Then work the space-age paint onto the cells and find a reliable way to re-seal the cartridge.

I had acid bathed the leslies cell perhaps 6 times across the 3 years to remove calcium buildup. I’m getting less buildup these days, now that I’m allowing TA to drift down toward 50PPM and I’m no longer in the big fight between TA and acid while the ph would continuously try to rise and cause calcium buildup. So I hope for even greater longevity in the new cell. The revelation to stop chasing my tail with TA-then-Acid came from many great and appreciated TFP authors and is available circa post 49++ in Iron stain from pool salt - all or most salts have iron.

I’m guessing the recoat idea is a nonstarter, so perhaps the only space is between my ears? Cheers.

Hello everyone, My name is Max! I’m new to the forum and I’m a first time pool owner. I love my new pool but I could enjoy it a lot better once I learn how to control my chlorine and free chlorine. My readings are 0. Otherwise, having this addition to my backyard has created a new recreational area and I’ve discovered, I love the outdoors. Please be patient with me I am a beginner and new to pool community. There’s much to learn and I am excited about this amazing opportunity. Have an awesome day!

Hi everyone,
I have an IC-60 that is several years old and I’ve just opened my pool and am finishing up a SLAM and I went to turn down the SWCG and it won’t turn down! Its stuck at 100% and I cannot get it to activate the “boost” mode by pressing both buttons down either!

My chlorine is around 17ppm and has been holding steady and slightly climbing now that the algae is gone so I know it’s still working. I have changed the run time on the pump/chlorinator to a 8 hours instead of 24 hours like I usually do to compensate for the increased chlorine - I have a variable speed pump and it runs around 1400rpm for 16 hours a day and 2500 the rest of the time. I usually have the IC-60 set to 10% to maintain my chlorine level.

My question is can I take apart the front panel of the IC-60 and repair or replace those buttons? Is that what’s wrong even? Can the ic-60 even be taken apart? I haven’t taken it out of the plumbing to look at it yet since it’s still working… at 100%

I teach electronics and robotics and can solder well and have everything I would need in order to replace parts on a circuit board.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys. Just wondering if any of the epoxy filler are worth doing and last a hard winter. I have white marble decking. Beautiful but good lord it is not very durable. It is set on a 2 inch slab to avoid settling in sand. Anyway, we have quite a few cracks here and there, along with corners crushed. I’m was going to try a product to fill them in but wondering if anybody had any experience.

I had an old Jandy RS16 based system which I had to upgrade from a single speed filter pump to a variable speed pump. I had my system upgraded to the 3HP Pentair Intelliflow VSP controlled by the new Jandy iAqualink 3.0 WIFI connected app. Everything worked fine but when I turned off the solar schedule last year, I must have messed things up. Based on some research online, it appears my solar JVA is aux3. The JVA works manually with the switch. But when I look in my app schedule the solar is gone and under "main menu", "system setup", "label aux", aux3 ( the solar aux is missing. It starts with aux1, aux2, aux4, ....au7, auxB1..... etc..) It looks like when I turned off my solar schedule, I somehow caused the existence of aux3 or any reference to solar in my app to vanish.

Does anyone know how to put solar ( I believe is the missing aux3) control back in the label auxiliaries list. I believe that since its not listed in the auxiliaries labeling, its name is not available for scheduling. So solar via the JVA valve cannot be controlled by the Jandy via the app. At least that's what I believe. Am I on the right track and if so or not, how do I get my solar JVA control back so I can schedule it? The solar JVA 24VAC wires are connected to the solar JVA connector on the main board top right but its not actually called aux3. Its just labelled "solar JVA". I figured that out on Google searches that aux3 was typically the solar JVA control. But its integrated on the main board so not labeled aux3.

Its also the one missing in my auxiliary labeling list. That makes me suspicious that I somehow deleted the label by accident.

Any thoughts appreciated. The pool guy who did the new pump and installed the VSP and iAqualink, has been away. I was hoping to figure it out before he was available. The whole setup is much more complicated than my old RS16 panel. I should be able to figure it out but its not that straightforward. Any help appreciated. The pool teperature is set to 90 degrees but I have no control over the rooftop temperature sensor. I suspect that even once properly labeled I'll need a warm day so the solar JVA is activated because the pool is cold and solar panels hot. I'll try that manully on the next warm day in service mode.

I live in a windy area and my pool is at risk from time to time of getting very dirty from dirt/leaves etc. Are non-chlorine shocks recommended in this case or should I just rely on manual cleaning etc? I almost never deal with algae because my chemicals are always kept within proper levels so I don’t ever use cal hypo and would just slam instead. Thank you.

New home owner, has zero knowledge about pools. Pool was closed for 1-2 years because we did not open it last year. We're in central Connecticut.

I have the TF-Pro kit. I assumed I was starting from 0 FC. Chemistry or science was never my fav subject in school.

Two days ago, I dumped 2 gallons of liquid chlorine (Champion, 12.5%) into the pool (as recommended for SLAM). Water temperature is about 58°F.

The 10ml remains clear after adding a scoop of the R-0870 powder. I've tried it three times now (new 10ml of pool water). Still clear, which means 0 FC. The powder isn't dissolved in the pool water in the cylinder.

Please help me understand why it's still 0 FC.

Edited to include photograph taken this morning.

I've just had a chlorine generator installed. I've had the skimmer crack and leak twice last year, so its being replaced. I now have leaks around the motor on an eight year old Pentair Superflow pump. Had all this not happened at this time, I'd fork out the replacement cost by having a new Pentair installed for me. Its hard and not a lot of options. I'm looking at a Black+Decker replacement with DIY installation.

The output side plumbing was just redone. In input side has not room left to cut out and replumb without cutting out the shutoff valve and going into a block wall. Nobody is too exited about this as the pool water line is above the pump and plumbing. The original Pentair unions were replaced after cracking in the last 3 months.

The reading I've done make it seems as if the B+D can be a direct replacement, without the need to replumb.

If its just a matter of screwing down the input and output with some Teflon tape and hooking up two electrical legs and a ground, I think I can handle it.

I'm looking for any input from somebody that has just directly swapped a Pentair with a B+D pump in case there are issues I'm taking into consideration to do this myself.

Thanks

I have a Pentair CC 100 filter body and discovered a leak where the 2 inch PVC goes into a coupler on the return side of the filter
I tried tightening it but only make it leak more
I have not taken it apart but I believe there is an o-ring in there and I realized after tightening it by strap wrench it needed to be hand tightened (according to a video I watch on YouTube)
I an assuming may have distorted the o-ring by over tightening it
Its a Pentair black coupler I guess thats glued to the 2 inch PVC
But all the Pentair illustrations do not show exactly what I looking at
If I could figure out what I am looking at
I am sure I could fix it
Maybe I screwed up the o-ring is what I am thinking or cracked the coupler nut by over tightening
Is someone could give me some insight into the coupler steup it would helpful
Thanks
Mike

Looking to upgrade from a single speed pump to a Hayward vsp. My liquid chlorine plaster pool is around 20k gallons and has one skimmer rated at 55gpm. Filter is Hayward DE 6020 and heater is Hayward 400K. In the not too distant future I plan on installing an Aquarite S3 Omni system.

Should I go for the 900 or 950, and for what reasons? I’m also unsure how you determine pump run time and at what speed. I live in SoCal so my pool gets plenty of sun…

Hi All,

I have a 31,000 gallon salt water pool that is starting to turn green and my mineral level is below the recommended level.

I recently bought a Taylor K-1766 salt testing kit. I followed the instructions and it took 15 drops of silver nitrate reagent to turn to a milky salmon color. 1 drop = 200 ppm, 15×200= 3,000ppm.

What does this mean? How many bags of salt do I need to buy? Thank you

I have a Tristar 900 1.85HP pump for my pool which is somewhere between 25-30k gallons. I just moved into this house and it is the original pool from 1978. I have two 1.5 inch skimmers pulling from the pool and a single 1.5 inch pulling from the spa. The main drain at the bottom of the pool was removed (plugged) by the previous owners. My issue is that I don’t seem to get a good flow rate to keep the pool as clean as I would like. I’m trying to avoid an expensive overhaul, as ideally it would be nice to re-plumb with 2 inch skimmers and add another skimmer and/or drain to the main pool. However, is there something I can do to help? My pump never seems to be fully primed (but no leaks as far as I can tell). The suction lines go from 1.5 to 2 inch and then 90 degrees into the diverter valve. Could this be part of the problem? Should I re-do the plumbing and replace elbows with sweeps? Get rid of the double 45 going into the pump? Would swapping out with sweep elbows help on the pressure side? See pics and thanks for your help.