Question: Is the standard white pipe sealant paste still the best option for sealing PVC fittings, or is there something better?
Hi folks! I’m back with my annual random pool question. Last year, I noticed some leakage around the PVC fittings going into and out of my filter housing. It looks like they were originally sealed with the typical white pipe sealant paste.
Before I open the pool this year, I want to clean up those fittings and reseal them. I'm assuming this is just regular maintenance that needs to be done periodically.
So, should I stick with the white paste, or is there a better product out there these days? Thanks in advance!

Edit to say I have a "paper" filter element as opposed to sand. The filer housing is one of those large R2D2 looking things.

Moved from old thread HERE

having the exact same problem will try creating a new user

I'm 79 retired Plumbing Contractor. I have owned ingrown gunnite pools of my own for over 40 yes 40 years. I had to turned the maintenance over to a local pool company. Like alot of pool owners as kids get older the pool gets less use. Easier to care for and maintain. But sooner or later something new creeps up you need advise on. Thanks Roy

Just wanted to say I'm new to the forum. I have a pop up pool as I call them its a 6500gallon intex pool I got 2 yrs ago. Guess it's my starter pool til I can afford a real one. Hoping for some friendly advice

I have a small pool under 10,000 gallons (good enough til I can afford a bigger one). A year ago I purchased a large hayward de filter with pump & chlorine feeder that is way above what would be considered i guess the right size for my pool. Filter needs a few parts like sight glass, plug for pump (it was direct connect so has no plug end) & i think 1 more part. Before I go looking & buying parts I wondered if too much filtration is a bad thing? The filter on the pool currently is just awful my fish tank filter would do a better job.

Got this no-brand pump I need to test out. Mainly I have two questions:

1. What parts do I need to install this? I think I need the below. Pipe image below so you can see what fits snugly into the adapter (but only into the inner half of it; see attached video in zip file).

• https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Fitting-Adapter-Schedule-Barbed/dp/B008I4CWZQ (1.5 inch variety) x 2
• https://www.amazon.com/4607-1-1-Degree-Elbow-Schedule/dp/B007Q2FXY8/ x 1

2. How exactly does the provided (came with pump) black adapter seal against the integral receiving pipe of the basket chamber? Does it just create a watertight seal due to the smooth plastic surfaces being compressed against each other? Video attached in zip file.




Pipe that fits:


Overview:

I was able to get 19 seasons out of a Jandy Lite 2 heater w/o a single service call. I had to clean out the pressure stat port a few times (blocked) but that was it.
Looking for a new unit, something in the 400k BTU range. My pool is 100k liters. The Jandy had its own control system that operated the pump, a very handy feature that seems to be missing on may available unit these days. Pool is SW but not sure if that matters as I got almost 2 decades out of the Lite 2 with copper.
The one unit that has caught my eye is the RayPakAvia NiTek. also the Hayward which has a 3 yr warranty (no control system).

Thoughts??

Hey Guys,

New to the forum. I am looking for a rebar and gunite crew that would service Boise, Idaho. I am a new owner/builder and am currently building my own home. I hear some crews travel if needed?

Any help appreciated!

Sage Hickam

Hi All - here’s to another pool season, if it ever stops raining and gets warm enough here in Pgh.

Anyhow, another little speed bump encountered and wanted to get some input.

Salt Pool Jump System, Board is an 8’ True Tread.
Somehow, the jig is slightly off center. The bolts aren’t bent, it’s just 1/4 inch cockeyed to the right. Thx concrete guys.

The front left bolt is 45” from pool wall and the front right bolt is 45 1/4” back.
The back bolts are the same 1/4” deviation.

So when I put the fiberglass stand over the bolts it doesn’t face dead center to the pool, it points 1/4” right, just like the jig does.

My first thought was to just enlarge the holes in the base just enough so that it can face straight.

I reached out to SR SMITH and told them the situation. They said that they had base molds last year where the holes are drilled not matching up with jigs, and that they’d send me a new base.

I said no no, you’re not understanding what I just explained, I said the jig is what is slightly off center, not the holes. I said that I put the base over the holes two at a time on all sides and all sides of the jig, and they fit each time. That it’s not the base.

I said can I just enlarge the holes a bit so the base sits square to the pool. They said oh no, you can’t do that, we’ll send you the epoxy kit and you’ll have to drill 4 new holes.

In the meantime, I reached out to a few pool people around here and they said nonsense, you can enlarge bore in the base a little larger so they fit over all of the bolts and the base will be square to the pool.

I think I could live with the diving board pointing 1/4 inch to the right but I’d really like it to be straight.

My handyman, who is extremely knowledgeable about seemingly everything related to construction, AND is super meticulous about everything he does, also said that the hikes in the base can be slightly enlarged so the base fits square to the pool.

I get it as to why SR Smith would not say that this is possible to do, legally, but I would imagine off the record they’d say it’s perfectly fine.

Moreover, I feel like a jig in concrete would be a little stronger than 4 newly drilled bolts epoxied in, even though SR Smith said that it’s just as strong.

Anyone do anything like this as far as tweaks to make this work? Or any other anecdotal stories making other pool-related equipment work?

So I went out to check my levels and darn near zero reading on chlorine. Though maybe my reagent was bad so I took a sample to the pool store and same result. I cleaned my SWG a couple weeks ago and it looked fine. Salt level is 3300 and one of my returns spits out little bubbles when the SWG is "on" (tested this theory by turning it off and the bubbles stop). Don't the bubbles mean it's working? Any other way to test it? Thanks!!

My cleaner is acting up again and stops after moving about a foot forward. I cleaned up the impeller area and tested but the diverter doesn’t move freely manually when tested like it does at 2:06 in this video https://youtu.be/eTMeGg3eQtQ when everything is turned off.
I must be doing something wrong. Any suggestions?

Edited for clarity.

Pool install in progress. Still in process of leveling ground, but hope to be ready for the actual install this weekend....
I have watched several videos, read the instructions, etc - and still have some basic questions.
I purchased Foam Cove forms for the pool, and would like to know the best way to fit them properly (not completely opposed to eating the money for them if a clay/dirt cove is better for longevity - but i have them

From what i have read, and i understand the reasoning - you do NOT want a cove made of sand due to inherent instability and can not compact/form it like you can georgia red clay or dirt
With that said - i am a little confused - if there is a 2 inch sand base - and foam cove on top of that, is that not almost the same as a 'sand cove' Like this image :


It seems that the sand would wash out from under it.....
So this may be a better alternative :


But that option really reduces the effective size / height of the foam cove

So i thought of a 3rd alternative :

Which seems to address both concerns (at least in my mind)

My first question is - WHAT IS THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THIS (Assuming using the foam)?
If the answer is 'throw the foam away and use dirt' then i am OK with that - will just be a lesson learned

My next question is - with ALL Of the above images - I am losing 2 inches of depth to the sand (assuming 2 inches is the proper/desired depth of sand)
can i dish out the bottom 2 inches (evenly) and fill that with sand (Except about 1 foot around edges) and fill that with sand back to level and get the depth back?

Also i have read differing opinions on actually dishing out a deeper cup in the middle (leaving about 3 feet around edges at level) - maybe an additional 6-12 inches deep - to have a slightly deeper area in middle of pool
I do have an 'overlap' liner with the extra material (25 gauge)
Regardless of preference and additional work, are there any real downsides (or potential upsides) to having a slightly dished center assuming the liner is capable and compatible?

And FINAL question - i have about an 8 - 9 inch grade i am having to dig out (i am digging down, not filling in) - once this is done it seems there will be a 'gutter' around the pool that is a low spot for water - any mitigation for this or steps i should take on the OUTSIDE of the pool once the area is leveled?

Thanks for any help/advice - everything i have read on this site has been quality information and i have learned a lot over the last couple weeks just browsing the forums

Location - Central Georgia

-Lee

Hello. I’m new to the forum and looking forward to getting some honest advice. I have had a 25,000 litre above ground pool since 2020. But it has been a struggle with me breaking heaters. The first heater went after two years (heat exchanger) and they warrantied the heater and then installed a new one which lasted one season (combustion issue) and then blew again. They warrantied another heater and this one blew in a year too (again combustion issue). Now I have a fourth heater going into my fifth season that has never been used yet. My water chemistry has been good and I test regularly. Salt levels are no higher than 3100, the PH is always in the normal range, chlorine is usually on the low side 1-2 ppm and I did struggle with phosphates creeping up because we back to a ravine. When it gets around 700 I use no phosphate and it clears up. My question is this, are these heaters breaking down because I have a salt pool? As I’m considering switching to chlorine and installing Clear Blue system as I can’t keep breaking these heaters. Can anyone help with some knowledge here. Thank you.

It’s about 20+ years old. It’s worse near the deep end. I like the look but it’s hot and flaking off all around the pool. What’s the cheapest route to fix? Can we wait a few years and do liner at the same time ? It’s a kidney pool so the cover tracks would have to come up to too replace .

We have a pool installed in 2023 with a Cover Pools cover. We often come to find the pool dirty and the cleaner has not been running. When going to the web-based aqua link system setup- Cover Pools icon, the cleaner will have an X to the right. So that the cleaner will not run with the cover is closed. First problem - sometimes the cover is open and the system thinks it’s closed. second problem - we want the cleaner to run regardless of pool cover position. Little worms and bugs get through the crack. I make the changes and then mysteriously I find the setting back to the X beside cleaner again. We do not have a pool cleaner company. It’s only my husband and I with the code. The pool builder company can operate remotely. We have asked numerous times if they are making the changes and they say no. Is there a batch update that is making it default back???

If anyone can tell me how to troubleshoot why the cover position is not always in sync with the app, perhaps I could consider using some of the fancy communication available between the cover and aqua link. But at this point, we don’t understand why they need to communicate with each other! Pic of how we find the setting when the cleaner didn’t operate.

We have been Coverstar owners on another property for 12 years. And never had any problems. The Coverstar cover is not in communication with the Jandy app!

Good Day,
I've been a long-time user of these forums primarily for help with chemistry questions for my 16x40 fiberglass inground pool (Imagine Pools, "Illusion" model) and greatly appreciate all the help I've received. I recently tried to replace a burned-out Pentair GloBrite LED bulb (P/N: 602055) with a Jandy LED Nicheless bulb (P/N: JLU4C12W100P) as I've read from several sites that it's a compatible replacement (and is hopefully much more reliable). However, I've run into a problem with securing the new bulb in the niche. The Pentair bulb has a "camlock" mechanism (in light gray in the picture) at the back for the bulb and a white face-seal gasket. The Jandy has "normal" threads at the front of the bulb and the niche has no way to "engage" these threads. While I can get the Janey bulb to sit flush in the Niche, I can't see a way to secure it. So, I have some questions:

* Is there an adapter kit available and, if so, could someone let me know the appropriate part number?
* Is it "okay" to just pull the bulb flush, essentially securing it with the wire at the junction box back by the controller (this seems like a bad idea to me)?
* Should I install the white gasket from the Pentair bulb onto to Jandy bulb (although I don't know how to get it tight against the back of the Niche)?
* Is it okay to just let water leak into the PVC conduit run (this also seems like a bad idea)?
* Is it possible (or recommended) to replace the niche in the pool (also seems problematic)?
* Did I just learn a $400 lesson on not doing enough research before buying the Jandy bulb?

I'm open to other ideas and suggestions as well. Thank you for any help anyone can provide and thank you again for being such a great resource for pool owners!

--
Bryan
SE Wisconsin Pool Owner

Hello, The only good thing about having pool problems is that I get to be back on the forum reading new posts.

For the second year in a row we have had tiles pop up from the flat part of the overflow (the one the cover glides on). I had a repair company come over and they told me that this problem is unavoidable here in Utah where our winters can be very cold. He recommended that we take all the tiles off, cut down/lower the gunite level by about an inch and install a kind coping there instead, then retile the water line underneath. The pool has an automatic cover that rests on that spot all winter long.

I am bracing myself for the bid that is coming my way. Before I make any rash decisions I thought I had better ask here if anyone has any experience with this product? right now the alternative could be just repairing the two tiles and wait to see what happens next winter...

Thank you in advance for your time

I am installing a Raypak Propane heater 15' away from the pool (15' x 48" steel sided pool). Figured be better than having pump and heater right next to pool for various reasons.

I am using Flexible PVC pipe. In Iowa. No termites in area. Yes I am going to bury it. I would need to go down over 6' to get below frost line. Ground can heave. You would have to be very careful to properly fill in with pvc or it would crack.

I thought what if I used drainage tile that is slit to allow water to also drain out. This would protect it from rodents like moles and rocks. This seems for the home owner special best of both worlds. I was going to rent a ditch witch trencher and go 3' deep. Not sure if two 1.5" pipes would fit in a drainage tile 3" in size. Maybe do two runs?

Just a idea. Thoughts beyond don't do and use PVC instead. I am not going to go down deep enough.

My Jandy PLC-1400 salt cell appears to need replacement: it's throwing 125/194 error codes. The cell is 4-1/2 years old, and it's worked flawlessly over that time at 25% in the winter and 70% in the summer. My pool guy and an electronic sensor that I have both report the salt level at 2800 but the control panel says 3400ppm. I descaled it two months ago -- got rid of all the visible white matter stuck to the plates and the place where the wires connect inside.

The code interpretation:

194 Cell Current is 85% lower than desired and cell voltage above 19V (Generates 125 code – Cell dirty or needs replacement)
125 Cell needs to be cleaned or replaced

The price of the PLC-1400 seems to have skyrocketed though. The last time, I paid $599 at Marina Pool Supply. This time, their price is $1199 and that's the price my pool guy quoted as well, so I'll get it from him.

Two questions:

* Is it worth proactively replacing the flow sensor/power cable? I have these from when I replaced the cell in 2017 and didn't replace the flow sensor or power cable because the new cell started working immediately (I did replace these in 2021 with the ones that came with that cell). Replacing the wires is a pain because the SWG control box is in an awkward hard-to-reach location and I'd prefer to just do it once with the new cables, but if it might make a difference, I'll give it a try. I'd rather not do it twice, but I suppose I could continue to use the 2017 sensor/cable (both unused) with the new cell unless something about these has changed since 2021.

* Does the measured salt level (3400 vs 2800) make a difference to the salt cell? Does it lower the current if it thinks there's more salt than there actually is? If I recalibrate the control box to match, might that make a difference? I think I'll give that a try anyway, once I find the calibration instructions again.

* Finally: instead of spending the $1200, have there been improvements in these systems since mine was installed in2006? Could I spend a bit more cash and switch to a better or more durable salt water generator to replace the Jandy system? This one has worked well, but if the technology has improved, that's something I'd be willing to consider if it's not 3x the price. I'm not wedded to Jandy/Zodiac but it would have to be compatible with my control box so I can see the salt level and control the cell level from my control panel and app.

Thanks!

I'm a proponent of reclaiming pool cover surface water rather than simply pumping to drainage.
Also, I maintain a 3,000 square foot garden, located some 500 feet away from the pool.
With an artesian well and no city water, I've previously pumped water into 30-gallon drums, hauled them to the garden, then pumped out the barrels.
This takes much time and effort, and the water flow from barrels into the garden is expectedly weak.

So...
1 - Would incorporating a pressure washer at the end of the run significantly speed up the actual watering of the garden?
2 - Would a powerful enough pump omit the need for filling multiple drums and allow me to pump directly from the pool cover to the garden?
3 - Can you suggest a more efficient alternative method of getting water to my garden?

Thanks in advance!
-A

We just got a Water Guru*.

Water Guru is in our skimmer and Water Gura has been giving me Low Flow Warnings.
Pump is Heyward TriStar 900

Here is my Observaed Data:

250W At 1850 RPM, Filter 0 PSI, Water Guru Flow 14GPM

460W At 2300 RPM, Filter 2 PSI, Water Guru 17GPM

855W At 2875 RPM, Filter 8 PSI, Water Guru 19GPM

Does Water Guru suck at measuring flow or do I have a potential plumbing issue? Pool and equipment are all new as of last year.


*I understand they are not super accurate for measuring pool chemistry but we are away for up to a week at a time in the early and late season so I just wanted something that will give me a good sense if my FC is drifting way too high or way too low while I am away.

Hi everyone!

A colleague recommended this forum to me. I just moved into a place my relatives own, and I told them I'd try to keep their pool in good shape. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this stuff, so I'm definitely here to learn!

Hi, recently bought a house with an in ground pool and wanted to get some reliable information. Came here from a Reddit sub thread! Very early days, haven't taken the cover off yet but can already see issues of water getting in through poor drainage and doesn't look like the heater or pump were ever connected so think we've got a bit of a project on our hands. Will not be rushing into anything.

My M500 is about 4 years old and not climbing well. Th tracks looks a bit worn but are not loose. Since I am changing the climbing rings are there any other parts that I should change out?

So I bought a 2025 Master spa Twilight 8.2. . He said it did not come with a salt system but I could add it on for an additional $700 cost. Is it worth it to get it? Thanks

Hi,

This year, when i opened my pool, when i try to backwash my pool, my sand filter pressure is high as usual. In the past when i backwash my pool, it is normally 21 psi, but this year when i backwash, i see it is going to 29. Could you let me know what wrong with my sand filter?

My m400 in about 6 years old. Any idea or fixes on why one set of tracks move? If I touch the tracks that are inoperative they start up. Any help is appreciated.

Renovated our pool and had to fill for the pool guys to finish their work, had some issues with equipment which I’ve now fixed, but pool was sitting for almost two weeks. It wasn’t super green, just slightly green and cloudy. On day 9 of SLAM, it’s definitely better but still cloudy. I’ve passed two days in a row of the overnight chlorine test and not showing any combined chlorine, do I need to keep the FC at 20 until it runs clear? CYA at 45. I do have a sand filter and have been backwashing frequently, I know it takes longer just trying to figure out if I need to keep the high FC level. Thanks!

For the short time I had a dolphin working, it made a bunch of noise when cleaning the waterline at the waterfall rocks. I now have a Wybot, and I am concerned the rocks will tear up the scrubbing brush. Does anyone have any experience with this?