I've seen a few discussions of this idea, so I thought I'd share my wacky project (mods move if I picked the wrong spot).

I have a 23k gallon in ground vinyl liner pool with a Circupool salt generator. I love it.
One of the things I love about it is the Autocover I added. It keeps my kids safe, keeps the heat in, keeps the sun off the pool, and keeps junk out of the pool. I leave it closed except when we are actually swimming.
The autocover also keeps rain out of the pool. Although this makes chemical maintenance simpler (no dilution), it also means that I have to add water from a hose to make up for evaporation.

The water from my hose is hard. Like 100+ppm hard. This means that, over time, the hardness in the pool slowly goes up. I'm over 400ppm now. I have so much calcium in the water that it precipitates out as flakes that the pool robot vacuums up.

This is probably bad for things.

The last time this happened, I did a water exchange. I was nervous about draining the pool, so I pumped water in and out at the same time from opposite ends of the pool.
This is expensive. Due to mixing, I have to pump out (and replace) far more water than I actually want to exchange. Plus, the water I am putting in is hard anyway.

My genius(???) solution was to use a water softener instead. I would get a softener, put it on a wheeled base, attach a little 5gpm pump I have, and pump all the pool water through the softener. It would replace the calcium with salt, which is fine since I can deal with another several hundred ppm of salt in the pool (that already has several thousand ppm).
Once the calcium is removed, I can keep the softener around just to pipe the hose through when I need to add water to the pool.

After a bunch of comparisons, I bought a Whirlpool WHEC46, which was $600 at Lowe's. I put it on piece of plywood, added some casters and wheeled it over to the pool. I didn't want metal fittings on the hoses running to the pool, so I used irrigation hose (which is also cheaper). Several fittings convert from the 1/2" NPT on the pump to the irrigation hose and the 1" NPT fittings on the water softener.



Plugged it in, set up the water softener, and turned on the pump. It's running!


There are still some details to work out.

1. I need a longer drain hose so that the softener can live under my deck (which has a "ceiling" with a water collection system) -- this will keep the rain and (most of) the sun off of it.
2. I will eventually need to see about winterizing the unit.
3. I'm doing this at the start of the year since I read that chlorine can damage the resin beads... but there's still 7ppm of chlorine in the pool (I guess I overdid my boost at the end of the year).

My drop test this morning said 400ppm of calcium. I'll check it every day and see.

I’ve completed repairing my cracked top pool stair by attaching new treads that I scribed to each existing stair and beveled to fit. Each stair surface was sanded with 60 grit as well as the bottom of each tread to promote better adhesion. I used Pettit marine silicone sealant / adhesive for the mating surfaces and made the bead around each tread with one of their UV resistant silicones. Both are below waterline rated, so hopefully it will hold up well. The tread itself is Timbertech Advanced PVC, which is their full PVC product, so no worries about swelling or rotting. I went with a fascia board dimension so each tread could be a single piece, and at only 1/2” thick, would more easily conform to the step shape and minimize the change in stair rise. I also drilled several holes before starting and filled the void behind the stairs as much as I could, which worked out to 400lbs of sand. Now in the process of refilling the pool and getting everything balanced again.

I'm repairing a polaris booster pump and curious if the o ring for the volute is the same for both new and old models. I believe the volute is part # P5.

I've been reading for a couple weeks trying to see if I have the methods straight. 18kG SW vinyl pool. We have a guy coming to open, mostly because hooking up the heater and plumbing stuff is beyond me for year 1.

Water still looks clear when I peek, but it's a leaf cover so I'm expecting some debris at the bottom. Below is my understanding of the steps. Anyone willing to take a look and see if this sounds right?

Hook everything up and remove cover.
Vacuum
SLAM level of liquid bleach (test for chlorine before?)
Add salt (2/3 amount I estimate to start)
Brush everything
leave on the pump but turn off the SWG for 24 hours (saw this was recommended after adding salt?)
Test salt- adjust if needed
turn on SWG
continue vacuuming/scrubbing
Test levels again and see if I'm burning up chlorine
If chlorine is looking decent use sock method to add CYA

If the pool was never green or anything do I have to get up at the crack of dawn for an overnight test?

Once the chlorine levels come down from SLAM and pool is clear I'm good to swim right?

Lastly pool guy comes in the AM and it looks like the salt cell could use a cleaning- would they normally do that as part of opening the pool or should I try to tackle this in the AM while everything is disconnected?

I had a small leak coming off of the seal plate on my Sta-Rite Dura-Glas pump, so I replaced the shaft seal. My seal plate is old. It's probably the original. One of the threaded inserts was sticking out which caused the seal plate to be uneven. When I started it up, I heard the impeller scraping on the diffuser. After taking it back apart,I found a couple shavings from the impeller. There are no gouges, and it still feels smooth. Is the tolerance between the impeller and diffuser important? Should I replace the impeller? It's only a few months old so I feel bad replacing it.

Hello, my cartridge filter is leaking at the top where the clamp (locking ring) holds the lid onto the housing. Water is leaking at the hinge points of the clamp. This has been an intermittent problem since I moved into this property and inherited the pool. In the past 2 months it has leaked some days, while other days not at all. Sometimes when have I reattached the lid and locking ring, the leaking stopped. But yesterday and today I cannot get it to stop leaking quite a lot of water. I am having to top up the pool it has leaked so much. Any advice most appreciated. (I have added photos now; thanks for the suggestion @PoolStored . I do not know what the model number is. It looks old and the previous owner was not the person who installed it.)

I've had my Dolphin Active 30 for about 2.5 years (purchased from Marina). It has been a great pool cleaner up until it stopped working completely. I checked the impeller and that was completely clear of obstructions.

When I press the power button on the power supply, it he power ring and the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi light both flash blue and turn off immediately. That's it. Would love to know what steps I could take to figure out what the issue is.

I’ve been open for a week now and water temp with heater got up to 75-80. I usually just use liquid chlorine first couple of weeks because outside temps are in 70s but we had 2 mid 80s so kids wanted to hit the water. With that I decided to start up SWCG. Since FC already 5-6 with liquid I kept SWCG in 25% range for last 2 days.

Now the confusing thing is the difference between SWCG screen is more than the usually 300-400 between my liquid test. For instance screen keeps reading 3000-3100 while k-1766 with new reagent is reading 2400. Am I too far off? Should I just ignore panel and follow my tested result? SWG was inspected before my opening and completely clear as I usually am and it’s only 4 years old this year.

I tend to over think some of these things but just wanted to get some thoughts.

I started the slam process yesterday bcs the pool was turning a little green and recently have noticed some yellowish stuff on the walls and corners that easily brushes off.

Some background. I’m in central Texas and we just went through our yearly pollen bloom where literally everything outdoors is covered in a fine yellow powder. Keeping the pool clean and debris free is a daily challenge around this time of year. I have to clean out fully packed skimmers (tree pollen debris) twice a day for a couple of weeks. Glad we are past that now!

Also this pool is severely affected by ASR. This is likely our last season with it. We have cracks everywhere, hot tub hasn’t been able to hold water for two years. Just trying to keep the pool going for at least one more summer for my kids.

I’m following the SLAM protocol page. Removed debris. Brushed everything. Etc.

When I started yesterday:
Chorine was 0.
CC was also 0.
pH 7.5
CYA 50.

Per the calculator sLAM level for chlorine was 20.

Put in chlorine and it resulted in chlorine level of 32. Kept it above 20 all day (only had to add once). And had no chlorine loss overnight.

Water was cloudy and could still see a little yellow in a couple of spots this morning. Brushed it. Vacuumed some new tree debris off the bottom and ran the robot vac.

But now there is a fine debris all over the bottom of the pool. Kind of powder like but you can’t feel it. It’s kind of a tan color. I assume this is dead algae? When we brushed this morning it stirred up and made the water cloudier.

My pool vac (robot) does NOT pick this up. We can see evidence of this stuff in the pool skimmer socks. My biggest question is how to get this out of my pool? Am I expecting all of this to go through the filter?

Interested in this Confer Curve step system, including the add-on. Does anyone know if it will work in the short end of my pool? I'm worried that the curve of the oval will keep it from being flat against the wall. Any experience with this? Thanks!

Hi everyone. First time posting to TFP but I’ve learned a ton from the forums, so first, a thanks to all the participants. Second, I’m not sure if I should be starting my own thread or tagging SlipperyPete’s. I have a very similar issue with my MasterTemp 400 but let me know if I should move to my own thread.

My heater goes through the ignition cycle, blower starts and igniter clicks (three cycles) with gas smell, but no ignition. Service heater light comes on but no error LEDs under the control board light up. I’ve torn the heater apart a few times in the past (and now wish I’d just replaced it) to swap the heat exchanger pot last year and this month swapped the heat exchanger and control board. I’ve got so much sunk cost in the repairs now it makes no sense to replace, but I’m at a loss for the current issue. I’ve replaced the igniter and tested the replacement at 130 ohms at ~78 degrees. I’ve read conflicting posts about whether that means Amazon sent me a bad igniter, but I got one ignition yesterday only to repeat the backfire (?) process that had me calling the pool man. The pool man had me replacing the heat exchanger due to a slow crack/leak that he blamed for the ignition issue ($1,000 later, I think he was wrong). I’m at a loss at this point. I will say, when I took apart the heat exchanger pot the flame holder (the cylindrical piece not the cone) was in rusty/rough shape from the previous water in the pot. Before I replace that simply due to rust and drop another $200 into this guy, I thought I’d post here for any other advice. Thanks again all.

Enjoy as I briefly share my concrete pond return to a beautiful pool by following the guidance of TFP. (I'm not even one of the experts here, and I was just blessed to inherit this pool at the end of last summer (no it did not look like this then, but it was not sparkling either). Thankfully, I found TFP quickly in my search then and have been grateful for all the awesome folks and material here. Yes, it can feel a bit overwhelming at first, and yes, this will be my first battle with a swamp... but I'm confident this will end in my favor - so if you're new and feeling unsure, feel free to follow this little thread--it's meant to boost confidence, encourage, and demonstrate what goes on here at TFP! If I mess up at some point, you'll see me shoot up a flare and call in support, and you'll see great folks virtually jump into the muck with me.

With the right knowledge and some diligence, this pool will be opened and sparkling without all the craziness and costs of excess chemicals, trips to the pool store, or even pool service. Oh yes, there will be a good bit of regular old liquid chlorine...bottles and bottles of it. But that's pennies on the dollar compared to the endless cycle I could end up with if not following the principles here. The real challenge and enemy will be time - I was unfortunately unable to begin this Friday afternoon or Saturday morning. So I'm stuck with this one day before the weekly grind returns. Challenge accepted.

Here are my initial pics (a valiant effort will be made to transport all creatures big or small to a habitat of their choice):

I know this thread is a year old but I have the same problem but I don't have an Intelliflo pump. How do I know whether the com port is good? I'll replace the antenna set if necessary but I'd hate to do that and then have to replace the main board too.

Sorry - this was originally in another thread. So, I have no lights on the receiving antenna and no Intelliflo pump. Do you think this is a com port or an antenna problem and how do I check?

Long story short. Cover had a hole in it so we didn’t cover this winter because they couldn’t get us a cover made in time. Should I drain and refill or slam. I’m thinking slam but curious what yall think

Hi Expert,

I have a Jandy PLC1400 purchased in May 2023(1 year and 11month old). I found it recently stopped producing chlorine as I have it run at 100% overnight for 12 hours and no change in the FC level.

I wanted to confirm if it is really the cell is bad or other things. Since my last one lasted more than 6 years before it threw error 120/121, this is less than 2 years old and there is no error code which confused me.

I did an acid wash, but did not see any effect. The plates looks clean and there is no noticeable corrosion.

One thing to mention is 3 days ago, because the cell is not working, there was significant amount of algae growing and I had to add two gallon of liquid chorine to shock the pool. Now the water is clear and FC dropped to 0.5, but the SWG was not able to raise it.

The PH is 7.5 and Salt level is around 3000ppm.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Hello, my pool is only 4 years old and my pentair intelliconnect controller died. My pool only has a single speed pump and a booster pump for the pool sweep. The intelliconnect allowed me to run the equipment with the app on my phone, but to be honest I only used the app to turn off everything when I would do the weekly maintenance. I had all the equipment set to a timer. My question is should I replace it with another intelliconnect or just use one of those old fashioned mechanical timer, that will last for years? Also is there a timer that will turn on the pump and the booster separately?

I have had a pool since 2006 in southwest Georgia. I am a believer and have used the methods described in this forum to solve any problems I have had with water chemistry balance. However, this one has got me stumped as well as many of the pool service companies in my area. I have never had such a problem as I do now.

My pool is in-ground, capacity 25000 gals, vinyl liner (replaced in 2017) with a salt water chlorination system. My present water chemistry is PH 7.6, Chlorine 21.0, Alkalinity 110, Cyanuric acid 95 and salt level 2700. Prior to my problem and just opening the pool in the spring the water chemistry was PH 7.4, Chlorine 0.0, Alkalinity 80, Cyanuric acid 80 and salt 2600. I have several river birch trees around my pool which always have produced a lot of debris plus seeds in the spring that cause me to empty the skimmer basket and polaris frequently in the spring.

The present chlorine level is high right now due to increasing dosage of bleach to get rid of what I thought was an algae problem. It has remained high because I increased the salt system to an output of 80%.

Right now my pool is green (picture attached). I looks like algae but I do not have any algae dust on the bottom of the pool when I brush it. My water feed is from a well. The pool service people think that I have a metal problem. I have added their metal out chemicals (2 quarts) and ran the pump system overnight but I do not see an improvement this morning. I do not know how to test for metals.

What I do know, is that I have had this pool since 2006, have always used my water from the same well and I have previously never had a problem that I could not fix using borax, bleach and acid. Any help would certainly be appreciated.

Sincerely, Jim Kempf

We have another issue with our Edge 25, this time it’s looking like the control module. If I had to guess, the cheap plastic on the control module housing has cracked in multiple spots and we got wild rain a couple days ago. I bet it leaked in and is causing the issues we are seeing.

I’m waiting on a call back from Circupool to confirm, but if that is the case, we will be eyeballing switching to another brand.

What are some alternates people have had good experiences with?

I used to use a Barracuda G3 cleaner and last year I dumped the Barracuda for a Maytronics Active 20. The Active 20 worked reasonably well, but the wall cleaning was really disappointing. It would rarely manage to climb the wall all the way to scrub the tiles, instead slipping off the wall and back down most of the time, only cleaning the tiles in occasional spots here and there.

Anyway, I never took the battery powered vacuum cleaners very seriously until I heard forum members talking about the Aiper Scuba S1 and giving it similar plaudits to the Betta. I considered getting the S1, but I have a kidney-shaped hopper bottom pool and the complaints about the S1 sometimes having difficulty with that kind of pool was a real concern.

During my research I found the Wybot C1, which seemed to be more or less in a similar class, less expensive than an S1, and the reviews didn't seem to complain about pool shape or slope, so I figured for $400, I might as well take a chance.

In short, it wildly exceeded my expectations. It completely blows away the much more expensive Active 20 at wall climbing and waterline scrubbing. It's not even close. It'll climb the wall until it's vertical a couple feet below the water line, pause, and then the impeller will appear to kick into high gear to increase traction and then it'll go right on up to the surface and get to work. It has a dedicated wall mode where it'll just scoot to the right and repeat around the perimeter of the pool.

It cleans the bottom just fine, and it does a much better job than the Active 20 at climbing steps and cleaning them as well (though brushing steps is still a good idea either way). No issues whatsoever climbing from the deep end to the shallow end of the pool.

The basket is roughly similar to the Active 20 with a hinged bottom. You can't swap out the mesh sides but it has a much better no-return flap than the Active 20 does, so it appears to be better at sucking up leaves where the Active 20 sometimes sucks them up and sometimes pushes them around. I'll follow up in the fall when leaf pickup will be a lot more challenging. There is no fine pleated filter mesh option like the Active 20, so that's a point in Maytronics' favor. Putting the basket back in the robot is a little bit fussy until you get used to the right angle to use. Once you have that down, it's fine.

The app is mandatory if you want to change settings, so something to think about there if you have an aversion to apps. Speaking of which, there are a variety of modes and patterns (different wall patterns, different floor patterns) to select from so you can find whatever works best for your situation. You can even select from a variety of pool shapes and materials in the app, but I'm not sure if the pool characteristics actually affect the robot at all. The app can sometimes be a bit fussy in that it's sometimes confusing about whether the robot picked up the mode switch or not. My advice is to set the desired cleaning mode and pattern, wait for the app to say "Successfully Sent!" and then let it get to work - but double check to see that the robot is behaving consistently with the requested mode.

One very nice feature the app provides is "scheduled cleaning". The robot will set aside 120 minutes of its 150 minute putative run time and split it up across 2,3, or 7 days for floor cleaning only (no walls). This is a really fantastic feature and since the robot is cordless, it's much more practical to leave the robot in the pool 24/7 - no ugly tangled cords running around the pool and the Betta and C1 coexist peacefully throughout the week. The pool has never been this clean day after day with minimal effort on my part before. I typically use 3-day mode and bring up the robot to charge in the middle of the week when I get back from work before dropping it back in the next morning.

Unfortunately, these schedules are "take it or leave it" - you can't tailor the timing or run time at all. For example, the 7 day schedule cleans every other day for 30 minutes, but you can't ask it to clean for a consecutive four days at 30 minutes a day, something I would have appreciated, or five days skipping only one day somewhere in between.

The robot is supposed to park itself at the waterline when it's done to be easily picked up, it doesn't seem to be very well implemented. You don't get any notification on your phone that it's done and ready to be picked up so in practice I just find the robot parked at the foot of the wall.

Charging is a piece of cake - you just unscrew a cap on the top of the robot and plug in the charger. There's nothing tricky or difficult about taking off the cap or putting it back on - it works exactly like you'd imagine it should. The charger wires are a little too thin IMHO and easily strained - mine came with a pretty good bend right at the edge of the strain relief and this made me a little worried about the longevity of the wire. Also replacement chargers are very expensive from Wybot - somewhere around $80-100 IIRC. Speaking of which, Wybot doesn't seem to carry much in the way of parts, so if the robot dies out of warranty, it may be hard to keep it in service. That's less of an issue considering the reasonable price, but it would be a shame to throw out a whole robot for want of a small part sometime down the road.

Overall, as long as the longevity is there, my impression is that the Wybot C1 is amazing for the price. If it only had filter mesh as nice as the Active 20 I'd really question if the Maytronics robot serves a purpose at all anymore. I've never used or seen an Aiper Scuba S1 in use so I can't say how the Wybot compares to that, but since it climbs the slopes of my pool fine, at least in terms of performance and navigation it appears to be a good alternative for folks with hopper bottoms and freeform shapes.

Hopefully this is helpful for folks looking in this space. If anyone has any questions I'll respond as best as I can as time permits.

Hello. Is the main tank supposed to have a seal? My tank is leaking quite heavily out of the main tank and the only thing I can think of is a seal is missing. We have tightened the lock ring on the tank cover, and still leaking. If it is supposed to have a seal, I cannot find how to order parts specifically for Evajoy tank EJ-HF050. Any thoughts appreciated.

Always wanted a pool since I was a child. So far, I’d rather clean the pool than my house … looking forward to learning how to maintain it.

My house's pool in NorCal has a pool that gets a ton of shade from a row of about 6 redwoods that line the southern edge of property. It really shortens the swimming season and I've been trying to figure out how to extend it without having to run my gas heater so much ($$$). I was told adding a heat pump might be a good solution especially if I solar panels/battery to the home which gets great sun as its beyond the reach of the redwood's shade. The temps still drop down into the 40's and 50's some nights, especially in the shoulder months, so I'm trying to figure out if the heat pump running only during sunlight hours is going to be enough to get my temps up to swim by midday. I'm open to other ideas as well, to improve the economics such as solar panels for the pool itself by building a pool shed over the existing equipment (not sure I'd have space to put it otherwise). I already have an automatic pool cover.

Hi
I am re-plumbing my equipment for a large 20 year old Gunite pool to accomplish a few related goals.
1. Replace old Propane Heater with Heat Pump (Propane is very expensive to use and not exactly environmentally friendly to heat a pool).
2. Move equipment around so that I can use the space that equipment is currently at for a small pool house/equipment shed/control center.

I am planning to place my DE Filter, Pump, Valve and Salt Cell in the back corner of this new structure that drill through the walls and dig a trench to the heat pump 8' away where there is more space for it.

In the end I will end up with longer plumbing runs to get to and from the heater and to get to the main return line from the pool. I tried attaching photos but even after resizing they are too big. I will get them on there as some point.

Generally I like to try and use supplies I can get locally so that if I am short one fitting or something goes wrong and I need a fitting I can just get one without waiting for shipping. Home Depot and all others locally do not have pressure rated fittings greater than 2'' PVC and no 2.5'' PVC 10 foot segments. If I want to go bigger to reduce the total system pressure head, it seems like I need to get 3 inch Schedule 40 pipe locally and then order all the fittings such as these. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-406-030-3-PVC-Sch-40-90-Elbow.
My question is this worth it? The new heat pump heater has 1.5'' inlet and outlet, my salt cell has 2'' threaded connections. So I will end up reducing the 3'' down to 1.5 to go into and out of the heater and then I have to reduce to 2'' for my salt cell and check valve (to avoid backflow of highly chlorinated water into the heater when the pump is shut off). I will of course have a bypass for the heater so that when I am opening, closing and cleaning I can run the pump at full speed without the heater in the loop.

I need to decide quickly as I want to get this operational and it is a whole lot easier to just use 2'' Schedule 40 PVC throughout but I do not want to take the easy route and regret it later. I plan to live here a long time, and we use the pool as much as I can in our medium length season in southeastern Pennsylvania.

Does anyone see a problem with having a pool light 6" from the bottom of the pool?

I've been trying for months to convince my new neighbor not to shell out $40K to make his pool more shallow. Along with others, I failed to convince him of the risks. And it’s his pool, he wants more safety. He intends to have a contractor add 1.5 feet of cement in the deep end to change it from 6 feet deep to 4.5 feet. The added cement will of course taper as it approaches the already-shallower end.

The other day I noticed another problem with his plan. The existing 10" light niche is on a wall in that deep end, and it's already installed lower than usual because of a 2 foot deep shelf/step built into that entire end. If he proceeds, the result of adding 1.5 feet of cement will leave that 10" light niche about 6 inches from the newly raised bottom of the pool. I've not yet thought of any real problem with that, although it may look odd and of course "uncentered" - and perhaps light distribution may be more uneven than usual. The pool is a 14x25 rectangle, about 11,000 gallons, and the light is on one of the shorter 14 foot walls, with the 10" niche rim starting about 2 feet from the bottom at this time. The light niche is a rather standard 10", he'll be replacing the 12V luminaire which is shot.

Thoughts welcome and appreciated. I think he should perhaps have the contractor relocate a new niche to a more typical depth (min per code of course) and to do so move it to one of the longer pool walls. Or just modernize the lighting. Better to abandon the entire project but it seems several of us neighbors cannot talk him out of it.

Thanks in advance.

I have the TFP test kit and noticed the pool store also measured TDS and phosphate (he said both were ok and the water was in good shape). Numbers were
pH 7.6
FC 5 (I just replaced my SWG and am in the process of titrating the chlorine production %, he said this should be between 0.7 and 3)
TA 90
CYA 70
Phosphate 250? (can't recall exactly but it was the 2nd lowest of the 4 color blocks)
TDS (don't know the number but he said it was fine)

When I've measured calcium hardness it's been 975 or so and draining the pool was recommended here. He said that he wouldn't with a TDS number coming back as normal. What are your thoughts about this? Thanks!

Pool guy is out of town for 10 days, I'd rather prevent too much water loss here. My initial thought is that I'll need to tighten this connection, but obviously I can't because the PVC is glued. So I'm guessing I cut it just behind the glued joint, screw in a new connector, and use a a coupler to put a new line of PVC in the middle portion. Is that correct or am I missing something?

I can't get the Youtube embed to work, here is a link to the setup.

We've a APCP-1700 that's about 1.5 years old now. Been through one summer down here in central Texas. Went out to clean the pool cover yesterday and came back in with pin and needles feeling all over my right hand. Checked with duct tape and yet, a bunch of fiberglass. Went back and checked everything I touch and the pump housing and handle has glistening in the sun. Checked it with tape to and it pretty much covered the tape.

I searched all around and didn't find any mention of this on Amazon, here or elsewhere on the web. Did I get one from a bad batch or maybe overlooked something about care or sun exposure?

Also - any recommendations for a cover pump? Honestly, really like how stable this one was except for this recent issue...

GM currently I have 2 of the gva 24 to control when I turn the unground spa on and off and was looking to purchase a 3rd to wire to on of the Aux controls on my Hayward on command. To turn the water fall feature on and off

I’ve looked in the internet and there seems to be another generic make out there called

TORK TPE24VA Valve Actuator Control, NSI 24v

Any suggestions ,

Will adding another Hayward work leveraging the AUX connection on the on command ?

Thanks
Pics below

1st post, so hi to everyone. Thanks for any input and advice. Now onto the issue...

16x42' fiberglass pool installed last summer. No issues. Several storms blew through the TN area recently and our 200# grill was blown by the wind approx 15' away, over pavers, onto the cover and dumped into the pool. Grill was removed and the cover was pulled back to inspect for damages. Water level was down and paver damage down both long sides (42') was observed. Initital thought was that the grill damaged/cracked the pool shell, water leaked down, earth pressure pushed in and sides bulged in. Now the pool wasn't empty but the level had dropped to about 2 inches below the jets. Pool installation company was notified and they said to add water back to the pool. They made 2 or 3 trips out to inspect. Insurance company was called, adjuster came, engineer came, leak detection company came. Still waiting on the full report. Leaks had apparently came from broken seals around jets, lights, etc... when the walls bulged, it caused this. Otherwise no leaks detected, no cracks or defects. I feel as though its going to turn into a finger pointing match between my homeowners insurance, the installers insurance and the pool manufacturers insurance companies. So any thoughts on what caused the bulge?

I've been told several possibilities. Still waiting on the engineers findings. I have my own opinions. I don't want to sway the comments but would to hear opinions on possible causes.

Plan is to remove the pavers, hand dig the gravel out and hopefully let the sides re expand and then put it all back. Hopefully better than it was so this doesn't happen again...but again, what caused it to begin with so that it doesn't reoccur?

As subject says. Any thoughts on dreame z1? It looks similar to the beatbot but better price.