Hi Expert,

I have a Jandy PLC1400 purchased in May 2023(1 year and 11month old). I found it recently stopped producing chlorine as I have it run at 100% overnight for 12 hours and no change in the FC level.

I wanted to confirm if it is really the cell is bad or other things. Since my last one lasted more than 6 years before it threw error 120/121, this is less than 2 years old and there is no error code which confused me.

I did an acid wash, but did not see any effect. The plates looks clean and there is no noticeable corrosion.

One thing to mention is 3 days ago, because the cell is not working, there was significant amount of algae growing and I had to add two gallon of liquid chorine to shock the pool. Now the water is clear and FC dropped to 0.5, but the SWG was not able to raise it.

The PH is 7.5 and Salt level is around 3000ppm.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Hello, my pool is only 4 years old and my pentair intelliconnect controller died. My pool only has a single speed pump and a booster pump for the pool sweep. The intelliconnect allowed me to run the equipment with the app on my phone, but to be honest I only used the app to turn off everything when I would do the weekly maintenance. I had all the equipment set to a timer. My question is should I replace it with another intelliconnect or just use one of those old fashioned mechanical timer, that will last for years? Also is there a timer that will turn on the pump and the booster separately?

I have had a pool since 2006 in southwest Georgia. I am a believer and have used the methods described in this forum to solve any problems I have had with water chemistry balance. However, this one has got me stumped as well as many of the pool service companies in my area. I have never had such a problem as I do now.

My pool is in-ground, capacity 25000 gals, vinyl liner (replaced in 2017) with a salt water chlorination system. My present water chemistry is PH 7.6, Chlorine 21.0, Alkalinity 110, Cyanuric acid 95 and salt level 2700. Prior to my problem and just opening the pool in the spring the water chemistry was PH 7.4, Chlorine 0.0, Alkalinity 80, Cyanuric acid 80 and salt 2600. I have several river birch trees around my pool which always have produced a lot of debris plus seeds in the spring that cause me to empty the skimmer basket and polaris frequently in the spring.

The present chlorine level is high right now due to increasing dosage of bleach to get rid of what I thought was an algae problem. It has remained high because I increased the salt system to an output of 80%.

Right now my pool is green (picture attached). I looks like algae but I do not have any algae dust on the bottom of the pool when I brush it. My water feed is from a well. The pool service people think that I have a metal problem. I have added their metal out chemicals (2 quarts) and ran the pump system overnight but I do not see an improvement this morning. I do not know how to test for metals.

What I do know, is that I have had this pool since 2006, have always used my water from the same well and I have previously never had a problem that I could not fix using borax, bleach and acid. Any help would certainly be appreciated.

Sincerely, Jim Kempf

We have another issue with our Edge 25, this time it’s looking like the control module. If I had to guess, the cheap plastic on the control module housing has cracked in multiple spots and we got wild rain a couple days ago. I bet it leaked in and is causing the issues we are seeing.

I’m waiting on a call back from Circupool to confirm, but if that is the case, we will be eyeballing switching to another brand.

What are some alternates people have had good experiences with?

I used to use a Barracuda G3 cleaner and last year I dumped the Barracuda for a Maytronics Active 20. The Active 20 worked reasonably well, but the wall cleaning was really disappointing. It would rarely manage to climb the wall all the way to scrub the tiles, instead slipping off the wall and back down most of the time, only cleaning the tiles in occasional spots here and there.

Anyway, I never took the battery powered vacuum cleaners very seriously until I heard forum members talking about the Aiper Scuba S1 and giving it similar plaudits to the Betta. I considered getting the S1, but I have a kidney-shaped hopper bottom pool and the complaints about the S1 sometimes having difficulty with that kind of pool was a real concern.

During my research I found the Wybot C1, which seemed to be more or less in a similar class, less expensive than an S1, and the reviews didn't seem to complain about pool shape or slope, so I figured for $400, I might as well take a chance.

In short, it wildly exceeded my expectations. It completely blows away the much more expensive Active 20 at wall climbing and waterline scrubbing. It's not even close. It'll climb the wall until it's vertical a couple feet below the water line, pause, and then the impeller will appear to kick into high gear to increase traction and then it'll go right on up to the surface and get to work. It has a dedicated wall mode where it'll just scoot to the right and repeat around the perimeter of the pool.

It cleans the bottom just fine, and it does a much better job than the Active 20 at climbing steps and cleaning them as well (though brushing steps is still a good idea either way). No issues whatsoever climbing from the deep end to the shallow end of the pool.

The basket is roughly similar to the Active 20 with a hinged bottom. You can't swap out the mesh sides but it has a much better no-return flap than the Active 20 does, so it appears to be better at sucking up leaves where the Active 20 sometimes sucks them up and sometimes pushes them around. I'll follow up in the fall when leaf pickup will be a lot more challenging. There is no fine pleated filter mesh option like the Active 20, so that's a point in Maytronics' favor. Putting the basket back in the robot is a little bit fussy until you get used to the right angle to use. Once you have that down, it's fine.

The app is mandatory if you want to change settings, so something to think about there if you have an aversion to apps. Speaking of which, there are a variety of modes and patterns (different wall patterns, different floor patterns) to select from so you can find whatever works best for your situation. You can even select from a variety of pool shapes and materials in the app, but I'm not sure if the pool characteristics actually affect the robot at all. The app can sometimes be a bit fussy in that it's sometimes confusing about whether the robot picked up the mode switch or not. My advice is to set the desired cleaning mode and pattern, wait for the app to say "Successfully Sent!" and then let it get to work - but double check to see that the robot is behaving consistently with the requested mode.

One very nice feature the app provides is "scheduled cleaning". The robot will set aside 120 minutes of its 150 minute putative run time and split it up across 2,3, or 7 days for floor cleaning only (no walls). This is a really fantastic feature and since the robot is cordless, it's much more practical to leave the robot in the pool 24/7 - no ugly tangled cords running around the pool and the Betta and C1 coexist peacefully throughout the week. The pool has never been this clean day after day with minimal effort on my part before. I typically use 3-day mode and bring up the robot to charge in the middle of the week when I get back from work before dropping it back in the next morning.

Unfortunately, these schedules are "take it or leave it" - you can't tailor the timing or run time at all. For example, the 7 day schedule cleans every other day for 30 minutes, but you can't ask it to clean for a consecutive four days at 30 minutes a day, something I would have appreciated, or five days skipping only one day somewhere in between.

The robot is supposed to park itself at the waterline when it's done to be easily picked up, it doesn't seem to be very well implemented. You don't get any notification on your phone that it's done and ready to be picked up so in practice I just find the robot parked at the foot of the wall.

Charging is a piece of cake - you just unscrew a cap on the top of the robot and plug in the charger. There's nothing tricky or difficult about taking off the cap or putting it back on - it works exactly like you'd imagine it should. The charger wires are a little too thin IMHO and easily strained - mine came with a pretty good bend right at the edge of the strain relief and this made me a little worried about the longevity of the wire. Also replacement chargers are very expensive from Wybot - somewhere around $80-100 IIRC. Speaking of which, Wybot doesn't seem to carry much in the way of parts, so if the robot dies out of warranty, it may be hard to keep it in service. That's less of an issue considering the reasonable price, but it would be a shame to throw out a whole robot for want of a small part sometime down the road.

Overall, as long as the longevity is there, my impression is that the Wybot C1 is amazing for the price. If it only had filter mesh as nice as the Active 20 I'd really question if the Maytronics robot serves a purpose at all anymore. I've never used or seen an Aiper Scuba S1 in use so I can't say how the Wybot compares to that, but since it climbs the slopes of my pool fine, at least in terms of performance and navigation it appears to be a good alternative for folks with hopper bottoms and freeform shapes.

Hopefully this is helpful for folks looking in this space. If anyone has any questions I'll respond as best as I can as time permits.

Hello. Is the main tank supposed to have a seal? My tank is leaking quite heavily out of the main tank and the only thing I can think of is a seal is missing. We have tightened the lock ring on the tank cover, and still leaking. If it is supposed to have a seal, I cannot find how to order parts specifically for Evajoy tank EJ-HF050. Any thoughts appreciated.

Always wanted a pool since I was a child. So far, I’d rather clean the pool than my house … looking forward to learning how to maintain it.

My house's pool in NorCal has a pool that gets a ton of shade from a row of about 6 redwoods that line the southern edge of property. It really shortens the swimming season and I've been trying to figure out how to extend it without having to run my gas heater so much ($$$). I was told adding a heat pump might be a good solution especially if I solar panels/battery to the home which gets great sun as its beyond the reach of the redwood's shade. The temps still drop down into the 40's and 50's some nights, especially in the shoulder months, so I'm trying to figure out if the heat pump running only during sunlight hours is going to be enough to get my temps up to swim by midday. I'm open to other ideas as well, to improve the economics such as solar panels for the pool itself by building a pool shed over the existing equipment (not sure I'd have space to put it otherwise). I already have an automatic pool cover.

Hi
I am re-plumbing my equipment for a large 20 year old Gunite pool to accomplish a few related goals.
1. Replace old Propane Heater with Heat Pump (Propane is very expensive to use and not exactly environmentally friendly to heat a pool).
2. Move equipment around so that I can use the space that equipment is currently at for a small pool house/equipment shed/control center.

I am planning to place my DE Filter, Pump, Valve and Salt Cell in the back corner of this new structure that drill through the walls and dig a trench to the heat pump 8' away where there is more space for it.

In the end I will end up with longer plumbing runs to get to and from the heater and to get to the main return line from the pool. I tried attaching photos but even after resizing they are too big. I will get them on there as some point.

Generally I like to try and use supplies I can get locally so that if I am short one fitting or something goes wrong and I need a fitting I can just get one without waiting for shipping. Home Depot and all others locally do not have pressure rated fittings greater than 2'' PVC and no 2.5'' PVC 10 foot segments. If I want to go bigger to reduce the total system pressure head, it seems like I need to get 3 inch Schedule 40 pipe locally and then order all the fittings such as these. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-406-030-3-PVC-Sch-40-90-Elbow.
My question is this worth it? The new heat pump heater has 1.5'' inlet and outlet, my salt cell has 2'' threaded connections. So I will end up reducing the 3'' down to 1.5 to go into and out of the heater and then I have to reduce to 2'' for my salt cell and check valve (to avoid backflow of highly chlorinated water into the heater when the pump is shut off). I will of course have a bypass for the heater so that when I am opening, closing and cleaning I can run the pump at full speed without the heater in the loop.

I need to decide quickly as I want to get this operational and it is a whole lot easier to just use 2'' Schedule 40 PVC throughout but I do not want to take the easy route and regret it later. I plan to live here a long time, and we use the pool as much as I can in our medium length season in southeastern Pennsylvania.

Does anyone see a problem with having a pool light 6" from the bottom of the pool?

I've been trying for months to convince my new neighbor not to shell out $40K to make his pool more shallow. Along with others, I failed to convince him of the risks. And it’s his pool, he wants more safety. He intends to have a contractor add 1.5 feet of cement in the deep end to change it from 6 feet deep to 4.5 feet. The added cement will of course taper as it approaches the already-shallower end.

The other day I noticed another problem with his plan. The existing 10" light niche is on a wall in that deep end, and it's already installed lower than usual because of a 2 foot deep shelf/step built into that entire end. If he proceeds, the result of adding 1.5 feet of cement will leave that 10" light niche about 6 inches from the newly raised bottom of the pool. I've not yet thought of any real problem with that, although it may look odd and of course "uncentered" - and perhaps light distribution may be more uneven than usual. The pool is a 14x25 rectangle, about 11,000 gallons, and the light is on one of the shorter 14 foot walls, with the 10" niche rim starting about 2 feet from the bottom at this time. The light niche is a rather standard 10", he'll be replacing the 12V luminaire which is shot.

Thoughts welcome and appreciated. I think he should perhaps have the contractor relocate a new niche to a more typical depth (min per code of course) and to do so move it to one of the longer pool walls. Or just modernize the lighting. Better to abandon the entire project but it seems several of us neighbors cannot talk him out of it.

Thanks in advance.

I have the TFP test kit and noticed the pool store also measured TDS and phosphate (he said both were ok and the water was in good shape). Numbers were
pH 7.6
FC 5 (I just replaced my SWG and am in the process of titrating the chlorine production %, he said this should be between 0.7 and 3)
TA 90
CYA 70
Phosphate 250? (can't recall exactly but it was the 2nd lowest of the 4 color blocks)
TDS (don't know the number but he said it was fine)

When I've measured calcium hardness it's been 975 or so and draining the pool was recommended here. He said that he wouldn't with a TDS number coming back as normal. What are your thoughts about this? Thanks!

Pool guy is out of town for 10 days, I'd rather prevent too much water loss here. My initial thought is that I'll need to tighten this connection, but obviously I can't because the PVC is glued. So I'm guessing I cut it just behind the glued joint, screw in a new connector, and use a a coupler to put a new line of PVC in the middle portion. Is that correct or am I missing something?

I can't get the Youtube embed to work, here is a link to the setup.

We've a APCP-1700 that's about 1.5 years old now. Been through one summer down here in central Texas. Went out to clean the pool cover yesterday and came back in with pin and needles feeling all over my right hand. Checked with duct tape and yet, a bunch of fiberglass. Went back and checked everything I touch and the pump housing and handle has glistening in the sun. Checked it with tape to and it pretty much covered the tape.

I searched all around and didn't find any mention of this on Amazon, here or elsewhere on the web. Did I get one from a bad batch or maybe overlooked something about care or sun exposure?

Also - any recommendations for a cover pump? Honestly, really like how stable this one was except for this recent issue...

GM currently I have 2 of the gva 24 to control when I turn the unground spa on and off and was looking to purchase a 3rd to wire to on of the Aux controls on my Hayward on command. To turn the water fall feature on and off

I’ve looked in the internet and there seems to be another generic make out there called

TORK TPE24VA Valve Actuator Control, NSI 24v

Any suggestions ,

Will adding another Hayward work leveraging the AUX connection on the on command ?

Thanks
Pics below

1st post, so hi to everyone. Thanks for any input and advice. Now onto the issue...

16x42' fiberglass pool installed last summer. No issues. Several storms blew through the TN area recently and our 200# grill was blown by the wind approx 15' away, over pavers, onto the cover and dumped into the pool. Grill was removed and the cover was pulled back to inspect for damages. Water level was down and paver damage down both long sides (42') was observed. Initital thought was that the grill damaged/cracked the pool shell, water leaked down, earth pressure pushed in and sides bulged in. Now the pool wasn't empty but the level had dropped to about 2 inches below the jets. Pool installation company was notified and they said to add water back to the pool. They made 2 or 3 trips out to inspect. Insurance company was called, adjuster came, engineer came, leak detection company came. Still waiting on the full report. Leaks had apparently came from broken seals around jets, lights, etc... when the walls bulged, it caused this. Otherwise no leaks detected, no cracks or defects. I feel as though its going to turn into a finger pointing match between my homeowners insurance, the installers insurance and the pool manufacturers insurance companies. So any thoughts on what caused the bulge?

I've been told several possibilities. Still waiting on the engineers findings. I have my own opinions. I don't want to sway the comments but would to hear opinions on possible causes.

Plan is to remove the pavers, hand dig the gravel out and hopefully let the sides re expand and then put it all back. Hopefully better than it was so this doesn't happen again...but again, what caused it to begin with so that it doesn't reoccur?

As subject says. Any thoughts on dreame z1? It looks similar to the beatbot but better price.

I opened up my pool and the water was crystal clear. Recently the water has turned murky. I put in clarifier and ran the pump for over 48 hours. I used an automatic pool cleaner and was able to get some debris out, but still cloudy. Then I tried Shock and that doesn’t seem to help. I read on another site to use clarifier and don’t run the pool pump for 8 hours and then vacuum. I am
In the process of trying that. I have a salt water pool with a cartridge filter. Salt level is good, PH is good, and filter is clean. What am I missing and what should I try next?

Last winter, the wind managed to blow off the winter cover on my pool, dumping all the "tea" from the cover into the pool. We decided not to empty the pool because we had a particularly cold and long winter (for our region). I removed the cover and drained the pool finally and the mucky water has left a brown/yellow ring around the pool. Any suggestions for cleaning? Would a bleach or ammonia-based household chemical be damaging? I'm concerned about weakening the liner, but also about getting those chemicals completely out of the pool so they will not interfere with the water chemistry when i fill it up again.

This is an Intex liner, slightly faded from the sun after the 5 years it's been in service. I can take some pictures for you, but I think you can imagine the damage :-(

New liner is being ordered this week for my in ground pool. If anyone recalls, it split in the fall last year and we got a pool company onboard to change it now that the season is upon us. So, here's my question...

What brand of pool liner to get? We've been looking at Latham, Merlin, and Legacy (Imperial). Does it really matter what brand? Any tips for my first time liner replacement (I'm not installing it)?

As always, thank you for the advice!

Hi pleased to be a new member !! Looks like a great place for me to get good advice

I have a 10ft diameter Cowboy pool with Mastertemp 125. It’s coming up to 4 years old, and I’m starting to get HLS errors as the pool approaches 90deg, for the last couple of degrees. It does eventually get there.

I just replaced the pressure, and 3 sensors on the manifold. It’s better, but still giving HLS just before reaching set temperature of 90deg.

Any advice welcome …

Having doing my own testing from TFTestkits. When I start up my pool do I still need a opening kit from a pool store or do I just start testing and get my levels normalized? Hope that makes sense.

Hi all,

This morning, I realised that my IntelliFlo pump wasn't running. I checked the app for my IntelliConnect and saw the pump disabled. I enabled it and all good again.

Then I checked my notifications in the app and I see multiple errors, at this time all inactive:

Date Time Error
11/04/2025 20:03 IntelliFlo Disabled Mode
11/04/2025 19:58 IntelliFlo Communication Error
11/04/2025 05:41 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 00:00 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 12:39 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 03:15 IntelliFlo Communication Error
10/04/2025 00:14 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 22:20 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 21:07 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 17:26 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 14:31 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 08:18 IntelliFlo Communication Error
09/04/2025 01:54 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 20:04 IntelliFlo Disabled Mode
08/04/2025 19:59 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 16:01 IntelliFlo Communication Error
08/04/2025 01:11 IntelliFlo Communication Error
06/04/2025 14:37 IntelliFlo Communication Error
06/04/2025 06:45 IntelliFlo Communication Error

So I guess my pump went inactive yesterday evening.

I checked the cable between the pump and the Intelliconnect and it looks intact and well connected.

Any suggestions what I should do / check?

Thanks,
B.

Hello, had a 2HP Hayward Super Pump installed and there is an ooze coming from one of the connection points. Anyone know what this is, cause, and potential solution?

Just got a house that has a metal 24' AGP with standard returns. I've owned intex pool vacs and know they work great for this type of application so I bought another one. We'll they've redesigned the vac slightly. The hose is one piece and has proprietary fittings on each end (still about 1 1/4" hose). The original blue return fitting-to-hose adapter is now a pretty beefy grey 3". I am gonna flip this house and don't want to re-do all the PVC and was hoping someone knew of the 3" proprietary Intex return adapter to a standard 1.5" hayward style return. As it is I'm thinking I'm gonna have to epoxy something up but would prefer not to. Does anyone think a 1.5" male to barbed fitting would work?

I have an above ground pool that had all flexible piping, and I'm replacing with pvc. The guy that assembled our pool used a ton of silicone/caulk to seal all the fittings. When trying to remove the current fitting from the bottom of the skimmer basket, about 1/2" worth of the threaded portion broke off and is stuck on the threads inside the basket. I cannot budge it and I can't get any leverage on it whatsoever due to the flexible nature of the stainless steel panel/skimmer and the weird location of the broken piece.

Does anybody have any tips or things I could try to get this pieece out of here? I started to try to snip it and break it out in pieces, but I don't want to ruin the threads.

Picture attached.. Not the best view but this is from the top down, you can see the little piece stuck on the threads at the bottom.

My filter is leaking at the middle junction. I've cleaned the O-ring and lubricated it, made sure top and bottom of the housings are nice and clean and posi-loc ring is on perfectly. Why is it still leaking?

Good day, I apologize in advance for the language, I will most likely use the wrong terms. I used this chemical in the pool (link). The tiles started to fall off and I drained the water - the tiles continued to fall off during cleaning, upon examination it turned out that all my "putty" simply disappeared (see photo), and the layer behind the tile holding it began to crumble. I would like to know if I can restore this tile without buying a new one - I collect it and store it. I bought new putty and a means for holding the tile, I would be extremely grateful for a video example of how to do this. I understand that I am a beginner and ask a lot, in turn, I can share my experience of how I did it and what I encountered and contribute to the Internet and the forum. I took several photos of the pool and while I was doing them, some more fell off. Thank you

Moved from HERE

Debslemm said:

Works like magic! I have brown stains on steps every year when we open the pool. I dump vitamin c tablets on the steps, let them sit for a little, rub them over the surface with my hands or sock or sponge and wowza! Sparkling white steps! Doing this for 22 years!

Click to expand...

May I ask what type of tablets you are using? I am looking at getting some from Walmart but there must be 20 different kinds.
thanks

Hello Pool Warriors! - Hoping to get some direction from anyone that is familiar with Intelliconnect and hooking up the wiring for my Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump ( model # 354605), Pentair IC40 chlorinator, Tropical Heat Pump and SR Smith Treo LED Light System. (Must haves are the pump, chlorinator and heat pump).

Here are pics of my setup and wiring thus far. However, doesn't seem to be connecting and working on the Pentair App. So I want to make sure my connections are solid first...Any pics/examples of other's Intelliconnect setups would be extremely helpful!

Thanks!
Chad

We had our pool professionally opened 4 days ago and while the water is no longer green, it’s still very cloudy. We just bought this house so this is all new to us. Can anyone look at our test results and help with what we need to do to get the water clear?

For reference, it’s a saltwater pool (with a SWG) and about 25,000 gallons. We used a Taylor K-2006 test kit.

FC - 0.8 ppm
CC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 60
CH - 110
CYA - 0