Hi all. I have a problem with DE flowing back into the pool through the return. I use a hayward ec 50 bump filter for above ground pool. I see that when the pump is turned off DE is flowing back from the filter into the pump basket, as a result, DE is flowing back into the pool for about 10-15 seconds every time the filter is turned back on. When I vacuum the DE and continue the let the filter run afterwards it appears that no more DE is flowing back into the pool so I don't think there are any issues with the filter tubes, tube sheet or diaphragm.

I already backwashed a couple of times and tubes were cleaned prior to starting this season. When I opened the filter to check tubes it does appear like DE is not coating them but I'm not sure. There was mention of a faulty check valve but I'm not sure. Any ideas?

So going through engineering now for the design. Main reason for pool is rehab due to disability. Design is pool only, no spa.
Wanted to get thoughts and opinions.
Pool Size: 15' x 25'
Depth: 4' - 5'
Baja: 8.5'x5', 9.5" depth
Feature: 3' sheer descent

Pool Equipment:
Pump: Pentair VSP 3hp Intelliflo3
Filter: Pentair Cartridge 520
Heater: 220k NG 230V Ultratemp ETI Hybrid Heater
No SWG
Automation: Intellicenter I5P
Lights: Microbrite LEDs (4)
2 Skimmers
AutoFill
Channel Drain (but thinking about eliminating)
No infloor cleaning
No suction side cleaner (figured I could always use a skimmer, but going to go with a robot cleaner)

Deck & Coping - Brushed concrete
Waterline Tile: Still undecided but thinking about stacked stone porcelain tile
Finish: Quartz finish, don't want the rough finish of the pebble

Will be putting a lift in the corner by the baja step, but finding crazy high pricing on ADA lift, didn't know if there are any other ideas? Thought about a ramp, but the pool/yard is on the small size for that

First step 1.5 under water line, 9.5" baja step, 3rd step and regular benches 17.5" under water, 4th step 25.5 and 5th at 33.5 (need it to be easily accessible)

Have most of the vendors lined up, just need permit and then will be starting to dig

Hello, going to be putting in a pool soon and was wondering if anyone recently had good experiences with Southern California pool builders they can recommend?

First, I understand why we should have higher CYA in a salt pool, it helps with keeping the FC and it doesn't tax the SWG.

What I noticed in my pool with it covered 95% of the time I'm not losing chlorine that fast. My last CYA test was 50 and I can go days without adding more liquid chlorine. It got me thinking that since my CYA is 50 and the solar cover is on all the time that I don't need to keep the CYA at 80. If I ever need to SLAM it would be less chlorine at 50 CYA then 80.

Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.

HI,

It looks like my Pentair Compool LX220 has died.

I have a Pentair 011018 IntelliFlo variable speed pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster and 380 sweep, solar panels on the roof.

I first noticed that I could not turn the Polaris booster pump on by moving the manual lever on the clockwork timer. Then I noticed that while the LX220 said solar heating was on, the actuator valve was in the off position.

I got the valve to move by loosening the bolt on top, flicking the toggle switch from ON1 – OFF –ON2 and back to ON1, then a gentle manual assistance and off it went.

I still could not get the booster pump to turn on.

All three green LEDS were on on the LX220 and moving the WATER FLOW TO PANELS switch from AUTO – OFF – ON made no impact.

The voltages for VLV top and middle were 28V AC, but for top and bottom it was only 2V AC.

I sprayed contact cleaner on the WATER FLOW TO PANELS switch, and it disintegrated. The knob fell off and moving it manually moved it too far.



So, what’s my best next option?

• Look for a new circuit board (seems to be $494 on eBay, and am I then going to find the relay is dead?
• Look for a new/another LX220 (easy replacement, but old hardware/old tech?
• Find someone to replace the sliding switch?
• But a newer controller (Pentair Solartouch is mentioned, would that be a good fit?)

Thanks for any thoughts.

John

After ditching the Frog my spa came with, I bought the Taylor K-2006 kit a while back and love it! I'm running out of chemicals in that kit, so I researched how to replace the chemicals without buying an entirely new kit... and then found this website/forum! You're the resource I've been looking for over the last year or more trying to manage my spa.

My research - and this forum - led me to purchase the TF-Pro (mainly for the case and the awesome stirring thing, since I was needing to buy the reagents/chemicals anyway). I just got it, and I'm wondering if the reagents, directions, proportions, & measuring devices can be used between the kits; are they compatible/universal with each other? Let me share some examples:

- The reagents are numbered the same as each other in the 2 kits (ie: R-0009 for alkalinity test's sulfuric acid is the same # in each kit). So can I use the TF reagents in my Taylor testing, since I'm out of some of the Taylor reagents (ie: R-0009, R-0871, R-0010)? The bottles & their labels look different (sizes, but also the TF's kit bottles' labels don't say Taylor), which is what caught my attention. Can I substitute the TF's bottle of R-0009 for Taylor's while still using Taylor's R-0007 & R-0008 in my alkalinity testing?

- I've figured out that the pH test isn't the same proportions. I used my Taylor's pH test (R-0004 with the cylinder comparator that came with the Taylor kit), and then just to see how that compared in the TF kit I poured that mixed solution (measuring 7.7 in the cylinlder) into the TF square comparator and it was a much weaker looking red (not able to be read in the square comparator). So the proportions (water to 5 drops) didn't work between the 2. Does that mean I need to keep using my Taylor cylinder comparator until my Taylor R-0004 drops run out?
-- I just looked at the TF kit, and the pH drops have a different number (R-0014), so I guess that sort of answers that question. That liquid needs to be used with that measuring device. Got it.

Are there any other tests where I need to beware of not switching the reagents or measurers between the two kits?

Also, are the directions for the test kits compatible with each other? I've doctored up the color-coded one that came with the Taylor test kit (permanent marker underlining things, and writing cooresponding notes on the lids of the bottles) - can I just move that doctored up color-coded one to my TF-Pro kit and follow those Taylor directions? Once I embraced the color-coding and wrote cheater notes on the bottle lids (ie: "2 drops, swirl", "5 drops, swirl", and "green to red, swirl & count, x10" on my alkalinity set of 3 bottles), testing is SO much less stressful and much easier for me to do quickly.

Thanks for your help in easing me into the TF-Pro kit, after I finally became comfy with the Taylor K-2006 kit.

Hi All, this is Ken from Livermore, CA. We are 30 miles due East of San Francisco Bay and somewhat in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, but have great wines and a long winemaking history dating from the mid 1800's. I purchased a home here in 2009 with a ~1500 gallon in-ground spa with a waterfall feature. I needed to move the equipment pad to make room for an outbuilding, which prompted a search to upgrade the Hayward equipment that now has to be at least 25 years old. Kudos to Hayward for their build quality, at least at that time. Happy to find this site, and will be posting questions soon. Also happy to share what I learn along the way.

My spirit has quit working for me. The lights on the ps blink at the same time and cleaner won't work. I've tried turning the on/off button on several times with no luck.

HELP!

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to replace a pool heat pump sensor? We have the AquaPro PRO900T model. We have the replacement sensor and now need to find out how to replace it. I tried googling videos but can't find out heat pump out there.

If anyone can help, I'd sure appreciate it!

Thank you,
Stephanie

It was not making this sound last week that I know for a fact but lately its been sunny in North Carolina so I went out today to add water to the pool(this was in the early morning when the pool hasn't turned on yet) since it was below its recommended range. I go back outside a couple hours later to see that the water is at a acceptable level but I hear the pool smart filter making the buzzing sound and I cant find anything online to address this matter or to brush it off. Anyone have any idea what the problem is if any?( I will check if this is still happening tomorrow to make sure it isn't a one time thing)

I got home the other day to a massive leak at my pump, had 1.5 inches of water in my shed. Basically, the union piece screwed into the pump outlet doesn’t seem to be holding anymore. If you screw it in, at some point it just won’t tighten anymore and will just get loose again. The threads seem fine on both the piece and the union, and I even bought a replacement piece and when screwing it in it’s the same problem. A guy came to have a look, he thinks maybe the hole itself got a bit warped because of heat. But he’s not sure as my pump is only like 3 years old, I didn’t have significant air bubbles showing, though I did have a bit. I don’t want to replace a pump if I don’t have to, not sure if there’s a good way to verify if that’s really the problem or if there’s a way to fix as opposed to replacing. Pictures attached.

I have a Hayward heater (not sure what model, but has 5-6 burners). The original setup linked to iAquaLink was done by the previous owner. Everything worked find controlling the system until I had to clean out a burner line due to a spider web in the first burner’s “pipe.”

Thereafter, whenever I turn on the pump system in iAquaLink (this works) and then turn on spa mode (this works), if I then try to turn on spa heater, the heater turns on but the display on the heater indicates pool heater mode. As a result, the spa only ever heats to the pool temp setting. (I have tried going into BO mode but then the heater never turns on thru iAquaLink controls.) In order to make the spa heat to the spa heater setting while the system is on, I must manually click the Hayward heater out of linked mode (linked mode = orange light on the power symbol; unlinked = no light) and instead put it in manual spa mode (red light on spa symbol). Before turning off the system in iAquaLink, I have to manually switch the heater back to linked mode. Otherwise the next time I turn on the system, the heater automatically turns on to spa heater mode (the last manual mode).

How do I reset the heater to correctly respond to iAquaLink heater selections (pool vs spa)?

Note: the pool heater setting in iAquaLink correctly turns on the pool heater.

Hi there-

Our pool is four years old with a standard chlorinator, spillover spa, and automatic safety cover. I am contemplating converting to a salt water chlorinator system but want to know if anyone has issues with the salt corroding the autocover. Also, this may be a silly question, but can you convert a spillover spa to salt as well?

Thank you!

My neighbor has changed his liner 2 years ago. Few days ago he has noticed a large bubble in the shape of a gaussian curve probably 40 inch diameter and 20 inches high. It's in the higher end of the pool. It feels like water below the liner. We are in new jersey and it has rained z lot the last few weeks.

He is not taking care of the pool himself and the company who takes care of his pool for him told him to just wait, it will go away. He asked me what I think about it. I'm not sure and I'm curious to hear from the specialists here ! I am.hinestly never satisfied With "you should wait" answer, also because the weather main not get better and it may be a bigger issue that needs to be fixed. Thanks for your help.

I have a Pentair Sand Dollar (SD80) sand filter. It is approximately 6 years old. I noticed in the spring that it was leaking around the top where the valve is clamped on. I was able to tighten up the clamp and stop the leak. A few weeks ago I notice a pin hole leak in the seam where the filter is molded together. It obviously can't be clamped. I have tried to repair the leak with silicone and marine epoxy. With the epoxy I even took the valve off and epoxied both the inside and outside of the pin hole. The pressure overcame the epoxy and weakened the seal rendering it useless.

In order to use the filter, I have to account for the water loss and add some every couple of days. Obviously, I need to find a new option for repairing it or buy a new one. I am ok getting a new one, but it does seem like a waste if there's a way to repair it. I'm curious if anyone else has seen something like this and if there is a product or remedy that I don't know about.

Also, I would like to know if there is something I'm possibly doing wrong. We had this pool installed in 2014, so this is our 10th season. In 2017 this exact same issue occurred and I just bought a new one and replaced the sand and filter. I could possibly be causing this, but I wouldn't know and thought I'd ask. I don't have any reason to believe that, but I do find it odd that it's happened to me twice now. It is possible that they're just prone to this malfunction or maybe it's just another piece of junk from Pentair (I have a lot of bad words I usually use when talking about their products).

Anyway... is there a way to repair it? Should I just replace it? If replacing, should I go with another manufacturer? Am I possibly causing the problem?

For info.... I'm in Central Ohio and usually have the pool opened from April to mid-October. The pump runs in 4 hour cycles every day. I manage the sanitation of the pool with liquid chlorine (and a testing kit) and try to adhere to the procedures I've learned here. I backwash the filter maybe once a month.

As title describes, anyone know the exact weight that would yield 30 cya? Would be nice to just fill up a box with the total amount needed and then use that until it’s empty instead of trying to keep track of it daily.

Thanks

My pool was cloudy. I did the SLAM process as recommended, ran the filter non-stop, and now it is crystal clear. Thanks to the people who explained it on this web site. I am curious about just what happened. The water was not green. It was a milky cloudiness. Once before the water got green and I slamed it and I understand that. SLAM was killing the algae. But what is the milky non green cloudiness? Is it indirectly the result of algae, or was it some other thing growing in the pool? If so what?

Can anyone tell me the difference between Biogards renewal and plain old baking soda? Thanks!

We just had a new liner installed on our inground pool. The liner looks great, but I just noticed that we no longer have a 'track' on the coping where our winter cover gets slotted in. When looking at before photos, the old liner is lower, so it appears there were two tracks (one for the liner, one above for the lock-in winter cover) and they installed the new liner in the top track. I'm assuming this is a problem and now we can't put our winter cover in the track??? What next? Am I missing something, do they need to fix it (or can this be fixed?)

This is new & very interesting as it actually has brushes at a low price point.
Anybody pulled the trigger on one yet?

Howdy, I know there are many previous similar threads. Mine: had 25yr old plaster pool chipped out and remade with micropebble in February. I asked to include "make the light work" and he allocated $100 charge to me for it. I watched the guy test it (while dry) and it worked (though he rapidly turned it off because of "heat"). I don't think they actually replaced anything.

6 months later tried it at night for the first time - light trips off after ~one sec. Pool contractor came to look and verified but the conversation has (so far) ended this way: "What do you want me to do? 1. replace the bulb and gasket? 2. replace the GFCI for $75 3. Take $100 off a fix (charge me $700). I presume the fix includes a cable replacement. First, is this a reasonable position for him? (I'm leaning yes). Second, what's my best choice of 1-3? I hardly ever use the light but I'm thinking resale.

One other piece of info that may be useful. 10+years ago had a similar tripping problem which an electrician tracked down to a cable short to the spa light on the same circuit. He took it out (we don't use the spa), and the pool light worked.

Thank you for organizing this website. I'm hoping to learn a lot!

Hello All,
Just wanted to introduce myself. I have lived with a pool for years and have always paid for and relied on the pool company for maintenance and care. Well, since the last season, I felt the pool was not being maintained well and that I could probably do a better job and might save some dollars. So here I am, trying to learn about how to care for and maintain a pool. Even though I have had the pool for years, I am new to all things pool. Here to learn and gain confidence that I can actually take care of the pool. I am so happy I found this site.

Hello everyone I’m from north tx and this heat has realy taken a toll on pool

I have owned my AG pool since 2017 and have always followed Trouble Free Pool 3 B’s method of pool maintenance. I use Pool Math and love the resources that you offer. Your references I’ve been awesome and helping me keep a trouble free pool.

In addition to installing a fountain on the pool inlet, we also wrapped the pool in reflectix-type bubble foil stuff.

We put the stuff in our RV windows while they are being hit with direct sunlight, so it occurred to us to do the same for the pool.

We bought the right sized roll from Amazon and wrapped it. It isn't about keeping pool heat in, which it will not do. It is about shading the pool.

Now, the bubble foil is hot to the touch and the pool liner is cool to the touch. Previously the pool liner was very warm and transferring a lot of heat into the pool.

Just sharing an idea.....

How do you use the pool calculator? It just keeps bringing me to the page but no calculations

We have a Hayward H350FDN heater approximately 5 years old, no problems until this year. I've day it kept heating past at temperature then shut off and looked without power. Breaker was OK.
It turned itself back on a week later so I turned it off and called for service. The tech said "these models are known for acting funky after rain. "
True, we had light rain last night, and heavy rain for the week before the problem started.
I suggested covering the unit with a tarp when not in use but he said the wasn't recommended.
We are getting the control board replaced.
Does anyone have this unit, and have you had similar issues? I have a GFI on the same breaker that I use, so I'd rather not keep it turned off all the time. It seems like a bad design if these malfunction after rain.

I'm running my salt cell at 100% for the past couple of days with the pump running 24 hrs a day and I'm still getting constant FC of 2.5 to 3. The water looks to be nice and clear. I did the FAS-PDP test and CC is 0.5. I'm doing OCLT tonight and see what the reading is in the morning and will report back. Not sure what is going on.

I have read many posts were members talk about how bad the pool store testing is. I'm wondering why. What makes it so bad?