I read on the forums all the issues pool cleaners have, and now I am brain locked.
I do not have a pool cleaner pump, so I must go thru the basket skimmer. Lots of Oak leaves and acorns. Newly re-plastered 2 weeks ago.
Right now the plan is get 1 from Amazon, try it, and if it's a bummer, it goes back, and we try another one.
I figured I start with these 2, just not sure what makes them different? any insite would be appreciated.

Jeffrey

This is my first pool.
I got my TFPro test kit last week, Today ran a full set of tests. Also had tested at 2 pool stores.
One store did the drop tests - my results are pretty much consistent with theirs except CYA which they measured as 60 PPM.
The other store's results were all over the place.
Below are my numbers
PH - 7.5
FC - 7 (been about 7 -7.5 for a week now - tested a few times during the week)
CC - 0.5
TA - 70
CH - 375
CYA - 50
Salt - 3400

My SWG is running at 50% , filter is on for 9 hrs a day.

Three questions
1. For Combined Chloramine test - After adding R-0003 - The solution was almost clear with a tiny tiny hint of pink. As soon as I added one drop of R0871 it became crystal clear. Based on this do I need to mark CC as 0.5. If so do I need to shock the pool? My pool is clear, no cloudiness etc.
2. I am having to add 2-3 cups of Muriatic Acid every two days since the PH seems to be going up. Is this normal for new plaster pools? Any reason for concern here?
3. My SWG came with an integrated Nature2 fusion Duo Cartridge. It has a startup cartridge in the slot. The poolschool guy (new pool) said to replace the startup with the regular cartridge after about a month. Based on reading the articles here, I don't want to use the DuoClear cartridge. Do I leave the Startup Cartridge in the slot? It should be all but used up now.

Thank you
Chandra

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Hello and thank you. I am trying to repair a few issues with our 15x24 aboveground pool. I have holes in the bottom of the wall and originally I thought there were only a few buy has turned into many. There was no rust stains or accumulation, just holes. I have sanded and primered with Rust-Oleum and reinforced the entire inside perimeter with 26 gauge sheet metal and attached bolts and straps. Taped most of the seems but upon further inspection, there are more holes in other areas.
I just don't know how many holes are to many. It seems like my initial thought of reinforcing the bottom and installing a new liner might have been a waste of time. Will the things I have done give me a few more years or is this thing done?
Pics attached

New pool owner here. I've got the chemistry under control using TFPC, and now I need to give my equipment some attention.
My Polaris booster pump (PB4-60) is 8 years old and leaking and IMO not worth trying to repair due to age/condition. I've also got an equally old DE filter that I want to replace with a cartridge filter (for reasons I don't want to get into here, but can do in separate thread if necessary).

Service manager at local Pinch A Penny quoted me $3440 to purchase and install Jandy CV Series Cartridge Filter (580 sq ft) and Polaris PB4SQ, unfortunately they did not actually breakdown the cost of the products and labor (I will ask for that) but I know the booster pump was about $680 in store.

Questions:

1. Do these prices seem reasonable for local install? I know pool store service isn't going to be cheapest, but this store has been good so far (unlikely the other national chain store close by) and they warranty their work. I'm not looking for cheapest, just reasonable, and with someone I can call if there are issues during warranty period.

2. Is this a decent Jandy cartridge filter or are there specific ones (even if different brand) I should consider, or avoid? Pentair CCP seems really popular.

3. 580 sq ft seems large (huge?) for my 15K gal pool?

4. Is that PB4SQ booster pump OK or should I go with a different brand booster (as they have other models)? I read lots of issues with cracked housings, but the service guy says that specific issue was a defect which has since been resolved, but I don't have any way to verify that.

With my aging/leaking equipment, I don't have as much time as I'd like to really deep dive research this, so I'm leaning on this group for input.
Any other input appreciated. Appreciate all the help so far! Let me know if you need any other details.

Chris

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Hey there, this summer is the 7th for my Chlorinator an up till last week, always worked perfectly. Today I realized that the PPM reading is stuck to 300PPM even if there is enough salt in the water (an independent test shows 3000PPM). Of course, the generator refuses to produce chlorine with that (false) concentration of salt in the water...

I of course did a couple of instant salinity and average salinity manipulation, and the reading stays at 300PM no matter how many times I do it.

What is weird is that it happened all of a sudden, I mean, 2 weeks ago, everything was perfectly normal. Of course, I checked inside the cell to make sure it was clean - it was clean.

Does it mean I have to change the cell? Thanks in advance!

My Ariel that I received in May 2023, worked great, I love it. Until one day in July, there were no lights on. I tried everything in the troubleshooting menus, I noticed the body had water in it. Living in South Florida we get our share of heavy downpours. I left it in the sun for 3 days, out of the water, and finally it started up again. My question: are these not waterproof? Can a heavy downpour cause it to flood the body and get into the motor? If so, is this a flaw in design or what? I have left the manufacturer a voice message and sent an email. I have not heard back yet. I did not tell them that it had water inside, I just said, no lights, or power...thoughts?
Thanks in advance

Hello. I have 2 questions about TA test.

First, at the 5th drop, the sample turns a light pink, then on 6th drop turns a little darker (or red, I guess). Would the end result then be 50 or 60?

Second, I've read here that a lower TA will keep PH from rising. I lowered it to 60, and it has kept my PH consistently at 7.8. But now I don't clearly know if it's 50 or 60. Question is, if it is 50, is that too low? I felt more comfortable when it was clear it was 60.

Plus, I like that it's keeping my PH down, just not liking the way it lowers CSI to -0.49.

Thank you!

During installation, there was an outward bow to the pool and the contractor fixed it. However, now I’m seeing that the is outward bowing towards the bottom of the sidewall. Will this be an issue moving forward?

Thanks

few years ago, we build 1000 gallon Fitmax above ground ipool using the 19 inch sand filter from Amazon, seller XtremePowerUSA and 2HP pump. Last year, the filter switch valve intake connection cracked and broke. Order 7-Way Valve Switch direct from XtremePowerUSA directly, got the incorcct part and never able to get it working again. Wait and wait for months and months, no stock available.

Thinking to replace with 16 inch sand filter and valve switch from different supplier. Whom do you recommend?

Hi everyone, I have what appear to be rust like spots on my stairs. Localized to this spot. There is a tree above it but i can't think of why it would cause it. Any ideas for cause and fix?

Pic attached.

Just posting here so others don't end up spending time on troubleshooting like I did.

Short story - If you have an Ikea DIRIGERA smart home hub it may cause disconnection between the Screenlogic indoor protocol adapter and the Easy Touch outdoor unit.

Longer story - I have a EasyTouch controller for my pool equipment, connected using the Screenlogic wireless interface antenna, and indoor antenna connected to a protocol adapter, that is connected over ethernet to my home wireless access point. Worked flawlessly for 3 years then this morning I could not control my pool anymore from the Screenlogic app. The app connects but shows outdated data and controlling circuits from the app does not really activate them. Indoor wireless unit has all three LEDs (PWR/Tx/Rx) blinking like crazy. Outdoor wireless unit has PWR LED blinking very slow, and Rx/Tx LEDs off. Tried resetting every unit (Easy Touch, protocol adapter) disconnecting/reconnecting connectors, Hard power cycling out EasyTouch, shutting off nearby appliances and A/C unit - nothing worked. Called my service company and they had a tech available same day. He came over, did the same disconnects and reboots, told me to re-install the phone app (he claims that is the first thing Pentair support recommends) - nada. He said he will have to call Pentair support and do guided troubleshooting, but it was already afternoon here in the West coast, so he said they will have to come again at time when Pentair's east coast support center is open.
After he left I used a 100ft Ethernet cable and moved the indoor protocol adapter+indoor antenna right next to the outdoor unit. Connection was established and I was able to control the EasyTouch controller with the app. Moved the protocol adapter and antenna back in - no connection.
As a last resort, I decided to shut off nearby devices. Started with a wireless router - no go, moved to a Philips Hue hub - no go. Turned off an Ikea smart home hub - immediate success. The indoor antenna LEDs stabilized, with the PWR constantly on and Rx/Tx lighting intermittently. I was able to control the pool with the app. This hub has been there for a year and never caused a problem. In hind sight, it may have gotten some over-the-air update that caused it to start transmitting some RF signal that interferes with the Screenlogic wireless link.

Hello all!
Bought a home and it came with a large in ground pool. Mostly got it under control but I have a question.
Shown on this photo you can see 3 pipes with valves coming into the pool pump.
The one on the left marked D is from the Drain, the next marked S is the Skimmer, but the 3rd is marked R (RLL) - its valve has never been opened by me.
What could that pipe be?! All 3 pipes exit the pump house and go directly underground.
The pool itself has 1 drain, 1 skimmer, and 2 return jets.
The return line can be seen on the far right of the photo.
I have no idea what the 3rd pipe is marked R going into the pump.
Any ideas?

Can anyone recommend an alternative solar panel coupler other than the OEM fafco sunsaver ?


this price seems absurdly high.

I have one leaking. pulled it apart today and found a two splits or cuts on the inside.

It was only leaking when the system was off so I swapped it with one along the top row.

It is probably OK for a while but I would like to replace it.

Hi got an in ground pool 36500 gal. Water is cloudy and green. PH 7.2 Been shocking it heavy around 8 bags every few days. Last thursday used Floc per pool place. Well it didn’t work been vacuuming last two day to get what I can from the bottom. I have been using Cal Hypo shock HTH Shock Advanced. Any help appreciated as every pool store has different options solution.

I have a fiberglass pool that I kept clean all the time. Now I'm starting to get spots that look like black mold and can't get it clean. What do I do? Do I need an a scrubber?

Our original pool liner was replaced 2 years ago. We had it for 14 years with no real issues. The only thing was that we could feel subtle bumps behind it which was apparently from surface rust on the galvanized walls that developed over time.

We decided to have our concrete removed and replaced with pavers along with a new liner. The company that installed the new liner recommended installing foam padding on the walls as it would make for a better feel but would also act as a buffer to ensure any surface rust spots that developed over time wouldn’t puncture the liner. They also scraped our old walls clean and sprayed a rustoleum coating prior to the foam. Now we have had a few ongoing issues with groundwater getting behind the liner. The liner stays in the track but you can definitely feel the water bubbles at times. It is not always in the same spot and usually goes away by itself over time, however we never had this issue before? The only thing really different is that we added the foam… and thoughts or suggestions with this? We live in NJ and have had more rain than usual. I do not believe there is a leak in the liner. Thanks!

As a licensed summer camp, we're required by the Michigan health department to submit weekly pool water samples for coliform testing. Since I've taken over the pool management, I've had 24 consecutive clean water samples over the course of three summers. And this week, on the second to last sample of this summer, I got a coliform positive test.

Feeling pretty discouraged now that my perfect record is no more. Tried to pinpoint all the possible causes... I've kept the FC above the minimum recommended by PoolMath, though this summer I've been doing this by adding bleach first thing in the morning (as opposed to twice a day in years past) so I usually find it having sat all night long pretty close to the minimum. We also took the sample about 15 hours after having kids in the pool. I would have thought that was long enough for chlorine to kill anything off, but perhaps not. I had one point a few weeks ago where I found the FC at 1ppm in the morning (due to a miscommunication with our lifeguard where bleach wasn't added when I thought it was). I don't know if coliform is like algae and can start growing after that and continue until a SLAM, but I suppose that's another possible cause. Our fill water (well water) also has a TA of about 450, so I've been keeping the pH around 7.8 so I don't have to add acid as often. I know that's well within limits, but since chlorine effective goes down with higher pH and I'm running a commercial pool, I wonder if I need to keep the pH lower as a result.

Regardless, I've SLAM'd the pool, boosted the filtration with DE (had to backwash 12 hrs later), and will go back to my twice a day bleach routine to keep the FC towards the high end until we can get a SWG installed. So that should bring it back in line, but I'm hoping someone more experienced might have an idea on how I can prevent this from happening again, or if it's just to be expected from time to time.

For reference, my average test results are:
CYA: 35-40
FC: 3-7
pH: 7.6-7.8
TA: 110-130
CH: 280

Hi,

Working my way through the internet and the manuals for the Jandy heater (that I have) and a Hayward variable speed super pump (do not have yet); Im wondering if anyone has insight to if this may or may not work....

The JXi heater has optional Versaflo (do not have) valve that the existing control board triggers an output when there is a call for heat.
The Hayward pump allows for an external control through relays for non-supported automation. Could a relay put on the output from the Versaflo trigger the relay for the VS pump to switch to high speed when the heater is heating?

Im not really interested in a full blown automation system.

Thanks!
Matt

Recently installed a new SWCG, and have been monitoring Cl demand and working to get it dialed in just right.
But now it's getting hotter, the pools warm, and so today I put up my shade sail.

I wonder what impact the extra shade will have on my chlorine levels, if any.
Doesn't really matter. Either way I'll keep testing it and figure it out; mostly I just wanted an excuse to show off my shade sail setup

I have a Pentair IC40 Salt Cell and went to check things out this morning as the pool looked a little cloudy and the flow was a bit bubbly. The pool is an inground, Vinyl, about 32,000 Gallons, located in Eastern VA. I saw that the IC40 had the RED No Flow indicator on and the salt level indicators were flashing (red & green). I took this as a chance to clean it and see what that might do. IT WAS FILTHY.

I did the diagnostic check and it showed the cell to be at about 60% life but all other items cleared (besides the known current issue)

However, when I put it back in the system, plugged everything in, and turned it on the flow light almost immediately went to green and then back to red. And the Salt level indicators never stopped flashing. For now I am putting the winterizing pipe back in and taking the Salt cell out of line so I can maintain flow and keep cleaning the pool through the skimmers and filter.

But does this sound like a Flow Switch replacement should work? or should I put in a call to my Home warranty so they can send out a pool repairman to do the deep dive into the repairs?

I bought this House in 2017, where the person I bought it from had performed ZERO upkeep on the Salt cell or pool components. They actually used a Chlorine Float for the years that they owned the house and used the pool. Now here is my dilemma. I have replaced the pool Liner, pump, the Sand in the Filter, and the IC40 salt cell since I have owned this place. I have an issue with salt "crusties" building up around the bottom and outside of the salt cell and some of the Junctions of the pump casing. Is this normal or okay? I have checked and verified that the o-rings are lubricated and that there is no physical leakage of water coming from the piping. But is there any way to stop and prevent the Salt from building up in these areas?

Hi All. I noticed yesterday for the first time some blackish spots / smudges on the bottom of the pool. I've been testing chemistry every day, and other than battling high ph (new gunite pool), chemistry has been good and water has been crystal clear all summer. I went to Leslies and they tested the water + recommended I add 25 fl oz of Leslie's Black Algae Killer, which I di about 24 hours ago. The original spots are fading but now there are more spots. They do not come off when brushing with a wire brush. I hand scraped with a paint scraper, and the stain does come off and looks brownish / black on the paper towel when transferred. Looking for some help on next steps. Details of pool: Gunite, 16X34, 3' to 7', salt water (Pentair), new build - finished in April 2023. Chemistry yesterday:
Free chlorine - 2.85
pH - 8.0
Total Alkalinity - 111ppm
Cyanuric Acid - 58
Iron - 0
Copper - 0.1
Phosphates - 610 ppb
Salt - 2883 ppm

I need to add salt and adjust ph and assuming I should shock it, but not sure which order since I added algae killer yesterday. Any help is appreciated.

Photos are difficult to capture b/c he pool surface is dark (steel blue - Diamondbrite) but I've attached some.

Unit will not turn on-no lights on display at all. Manual says to check fuse. Where is the fuse located?

The inlet pipe on my Pentair FNS 60 Plus DE Filter inlet pipe broke ordered new pipe in route, but I can't remember which way the 90* bend faces is it up or down.

I tested the salt by hand and I know it is roughly 3200. Every day when my salt cell starts up, it says it is 4500. I did the recalibration method and it still stops at 4500. The light isn't on for High Salt and it seems to be generating salt. The only thing that has changed is my pool guy reoriented the salt cell after checking it for buildup. Would this have caused mis-readings? This is third year with salt cell. Its a Aquarite 900. T-9
Should I try cleaning it and reattaching? What else should I do? Going on vacation of course!!

The pH and ORP values have been really off (pH reading is higher than actual value, ORP reading is low compared to chlorine level). I was thinking of cleaning the pH and ORP probes, but reading through the manual, it says to "turn off the AC source power to IntelliChem at the GFCI switch" before disconnecting the sensors. I spent some time looking at/around the system, but I can't figure out how to turn off the power. Attached some photos of what it looks like. Does anyone know how to go about this?

hello, i have a full sun pool (12+ hours per day); i was thinking of getting a sun shade and mount it to my pool fence to shade around 50% and reduce chlorine demand, especially for a two week vacation i have coming up. thoughts, is that going to help?

TIA

Who is the moron who decided to replace all the plumbing and do a better job this time, since she has to do something about her trashed sand filter anyway? Yeah, that would be me. Daughter is home this weekend so I finally have some help to get the filter situation dealt with.

Taking a cool down break - it is insane outside and the pool water is too hot even for me - about 96! I drained below skimmer and return so I could finally replace the glued together nightmare (read my build thread for that dramedy) which meant the sun didn’t have to work as hard on the remaining water. I swear, if it starts to boil, I’m throwing in some lobsters.

Could anyone give advice on to why our pool just this past month has a brown/orange bottom every morning
However water is clear
We maintain our pool daily and treat once a week ~ We now have to vacuum everyday and treat 2 to 3 times per week