pool light breaker trips

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Hansenaz

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Sep 19, 2016
43
Phoenix
Howdy, I know there are many previous similar threads. Mine: had 25yr old plaster pool chipped out and remade with micropebble in February. I asked to include "make the light work" and he allocated $100 charge to me for it. I watched the guy test it (while dry) and it worked (though he rapidly turned it off because of "heat"). I don't think they actually replaced anything.

6 months later tried it at night for the first time - light trips off after ~one sec. Pool contractor came to look and verified but the conversation has (so far) ended this way: "What do you want me to do? 1. replace the bulb and gasket? 2. replace the GFCI for $75 3. Take $100 off a fix (charge me $700). I presume the fix includes a cable replacement. First, is this a reasonable position for him? (I'm leaning yes). Second, what's my best choice of 1-3? I hardly ever use the light but I'm thinking resale.

One other piece of info that may be useful. 10+years ago had a similar tripping problem which an electrician tracked down to a cable short to the spa light on the same circuit. He took it out (we don't use the spa), and the pool light worked.
 
Hansenaz said:
Howdy, I know there are many previous similar threads. Mine: had 25yr old plaster pool chipped out and remade with micropebble in February. I asked to include "make the light work" and he allocated $100 charge to me for it. I watched the guy test it (while dry) and it worked (though he rapidly turned it off because of "heat"). I don't think they actually replaced anything.

6 months later tried it at night for the first time - light trips off after ~one sec. Pool contractor came to look and verified but the conversation has (so far) ended this way: "What do you want me to do? 1. replace the bulb and gasket? 2. replace the GFCI for $75 3. Take $100 off a fix (charge me $700). I presume the fix includes a cable replacement. First, is this a reasonable position for him? (I'm leaning yes). Second, what's my best choice of 1-3? I hardly ever use the light but I'm thinking resale.

One other piece of info that may be useful. 10+years ago had a similar tripping problem which an electrician tracked down to a cable short to the spa light on the same circuit. He took it out (we don't use the spa), and the pool light worked.
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With the conduit and light dry it can work and not trip a GFCI, but when in water you have an issue as there is water in the conduit to the height of the pool and the cord is submerged.
Disconnect the light at the J-box. Turn the light circuit on. Does the GFCI trip? If not you have a bad light and the whole thing has to be replaced, the light cord is not a separate item. You likely will never know if it was the fixture or cord, but it doesn't matter.
 
Hansenaz said:
Thanks both for your input. 1poolman1, while I may try to check the J-box myself, wouldn't it be reasonable to ask the contractor to have his guy check it rather than just shoot in the dark?
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If you're not comfortable working with electricity, by all means have someone else do it. For me, I am the contractor and that is just one test that I would have to do find out what the problem really is.
 
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A couple more questions please...
Disconnecting light at J-Box showed no problem (tripping) in GFCI unit implying short to ground in the old cable to lamp. I see (on Youtube) many DIY replacements using 120V LED products. Sounds simple (neglecting wire pulling drama). My pool is apparently non-standard, with a 6" pool light (not 10"). First question: 6" light is not a one screw mount to wall, right? Second: any recommendations for a 6" 120V replacement product? I don't care much about multi-colors or wireless control.
 
Hansenaz said:
A couple more questions please...
Disconnecting light at J-Box showed no problem (tripping) in GFCI unit implying short to ground in the old cable to lamp. I see (on Youtube) many DIY replacements using 120V LED products. Sounds simple (neglecting wire pulling drama). My pool is apparently non-standard, with a 6" pool light (not 10"). First question: 6" light is not a one screw mount to wall, right? Second: any recommendations for a 6" 120V replacement product? I don't care much about multi-colors or wireless control.
Click to expand...
A picture would help you get a better recommendation.
 
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I've done a little more. Verified the GCFI is OK by disconnecting the light at the J-Box and adding another load: no trip. Pulled the pool light. No obvious problem. Contains a little halogen lamp (bayonet mount it appears), continues to trip when tested. I figure I need to repace the light housing and cable but not actually finding much. Maybe this Amazon.com , but I don't clearly see that is 6" and I'd rather spend less. All the cheaper stuff seems to be for 10" lights. My contractor's plan (should I choose it): 1) replace GCFI for $75, 2) replace light fixture $700 (detail of fixture not disclosed at this point).

Any comment on this? I sure appreciate the input so far.
 

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Hansenaz said:
Maybe this Amazon.com , but I don't clearly see that is 6" and I'd rather spend less. All the cheaper stuff seems to be for 10" lights. My contractor's plan (should I choose it): 1) replace GCFI for $75, 2) replace light fixture $700 (detail of fixture not disclosed at this point).
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The technical description states "Product Dimensions 6 x 5 x 6 inches" If you can believe that.
Since you tested the GFCI with another load and it did not trip there is no reason to change and it can always be changed later if it goes bad. The Amazon product is nearly the same cost as what the contractor is charging and I assume that includes labor to pull the old light and install the new.
It would be good for contractor to tell you what light he is supplying for the $700
 
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Hansenaz said:
I've done a little more. Verified the GCFI is OK by disconnecting the light at the J-Box and adding another load: no trip. Pulled the pool light. No obvious problem. Contains a little halogen lamp (bayonet mount it appears), continues to trip when tested. I figure I need to repace the light housing and cable but not actually finding much. Maybe this Amazon.com , but I don't clearly see that is 6" and I'd rather spend less. All the cheaper stuff seems to be for 10" lights. My contractor's plan (should I choose it): 1) replace GCFI for $75, 2) replace light fixture $700 (detail of fixture not disclosed at this point).

Any comment on this? I sure appreciate the input so far.
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The picture in that link is not a SpaBrite (now called the Intellibrite) but an Amerilite, that's the full-size pool light. All pool light fixtures come with the cable attached, its a part of the assembly. Also, the cost will vary based on the cord length. Once again, the DOE has regulated pools, this time pool lights, and it may be impossible to get an incandescent model of the SpaBrite. The code says that existing stock cannot be sold.
 
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Indeed I need to find out what the contactor would install. I'd prefer LED (less power) and I see plenty of 120V 10" LED pool lights (with cables) on Amazon in the $300 range (Chinese probably). So I'm just a little surprised to be stuck with no real good option.
 
I found out the contractor's fix $700 replacement would be "halogen like you have", apparently identical to my existing Pentair 6" light. He'd charge $1500 to install an LED-based fixture.

But a surprise twist this morning. I had opened my housing yesterday and wanting to look closer today I removed the reflector and noticed an inch or so of water in the light housing. I pulled the light bulb with some difficulty (it was not a bayonet but a screw-type in disguise) and dried it out. Stuck the bulb back in - no trip! Reassembled housing, somewhat concerned about discolored wire/housing interface as leak source, but no bubbles on immersion, and now the light is working!

Fingers crossed. If the problem recurs (i.e. if I ever check the light again), I'll be much more efficient in debugging thanks to the help here.
 
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Hansenaz said:
I found out the contractor's fix $700 replacement would be "halogen like you have", apparently identical to my existing Pentair 6" light. He'd charge $1500 to install an LED-based fixture.

But a surprise twist this morning. I had opened my housing yesterday and wanting to look closer today I removed the reflector and noticed an inch or so of water in the light housing. I pulled the light bulb with some difficulty (it was not a bayonet but a screw-type in disguise) and dried it out. Stuck the bulb back in - no trip! Reassembled housing, somewhat concerned about discolored wire/housing interface as leak source, but no bubbles on immersion, and now the light is working!

Fingers crossed. If the problem recurs (i.e. if I ever check the light again), I'll be much more efficient in debugging thanks to the help here.
Click to expand...
Do youself a favor and get a new silicone lens gasket. Reusing the old gasket is a good way to let more water in.
 
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