We are currently getting about 100 gpm from our outdoor pool pump. I'm told the pump is capable of much more flow than that. The state regs say our pool should turn over every 6 hours, so that's 167 gpm required for our 60,000 gallon pool. We had the pump checked out and were told the impeller is worn and needs to be replaced.... recommended new impeller, diffuser, and shaft seal. Make sense?

Is there any reason why the flow rate on the pump might be throttled back via some valves in the plumbing system, i.e. to match what the filters can handle? We have 2 Pentair TR-140 sand filters on the system. After backwashing, PSI on filters is usually around 22.

My sand filter recently started to split at the seam. Pool company here said my pump was too powerful for the filter. Pump is 133gpm and he said the filter was good for up to 75gpm, but it worked for almost 2 years. Regardless, I purchased a new cartridge filter rated for 150gpm. Skimmer is 1.5" PVC to pump. Pump is 2" PVC to filter. Filter out is 2" initially with a 90° out to 2" and then reduced to 1.5" to pool return jet. Pool is 24' round above ground. All PVC joints were sanded, purple primed and blue glued. Four times now I have turned on the pump and get less than 5 minutes until one of the PVC connections between the filter and pool (2" to 1.5" reduction) come apart. Only difference from the previous setup that worked for two years is the pump to filter PVC run used to be 1.5" and is now all 2". All suggestions? My pool guy actually told me it was too hot for him to come out and do this.

Can’t use normal stabilizer tabs because of CYA issues. Liquid works great but is expensive and hard to get at times. In Texas at A-Tex pools found some NST no stabilizers tabs, Cal Hypo tabs, anyone use these? Would help if they cause no other problems

Moved from here.
Just wanted to ask for a proven replacement LED for my JandyJLUC10-50 color led. When my fiberglass pool was installed they put a Fusion LED that lasted about 6 years of hardly using it. I replaced it with the Jandy multi color led I listed above. I noticed brown water inside the Jandy today so its toast. I think Jandy maybe bought Fusion? They both used the same docking ring, 12 volt, 10 watt and looked identical.
Is there a time proven multi color light that I can use the same transformer and easily install someone can recommend please?
Thank you

Hi! I need to add some calcium to my pool. It is at 220 ish and I want to bring it up a bit. I have a salt water pool, pebble sheen. My ph however is at 8ish. Should I bring down the ph first or just add the calcium and deal with the ph later. Thanks!

Also I bought hardness plus from Leslie’s to use. Is this ok?

Ph 8
Tc 5
Calcium230
Alk70
Cya 45
Salt 3100

Newbie pool owner here; we just installed our fiberglass pool in August. We live in an area with clay soil, and have had standing water in our yard in the past during heavy rain. Fortunately, before they dug for the pool it had been dry for some period of time and they didn't hit water when installing. When we checked the dewatering pipe after install, we could barely see any water.

We just had a long day of heavy rain, and the dewatering hole is now filled up to less than 3 feet from the top. We were told not to let that water line go higher than the pool water line. We're expecting more rain today. How close can it get to the pool water line before there's an issue, and is there a "best practice" of say, keeping the water below 3 feet, 4 feet etc. - at a certain level?

Also given how quickly it seemed to rise, I'm concerned that going forward if there's a rainy period or snowy winter that we're going to need to be constantly pumping water out...are there permanent dewatering systems that might make more sense?

Thank you!

Hello - I've been unable to figure out how to PM a member directly. I've tried clicking on a member's name and looking for "start a conversation" (or anything similar), but can't seem to find it. Can anyone help?

Hello everyone! I have an issue, I usually buy liquid chlorine from Walmart and just ran out. I just checked all Walmarts in a 50 mile radius and they are all out!
What is my next move? I live in Southern NC and I don't know what to use instead.
Any suggestions would be great!

I'm closing the pool up for winter and I have been reading on these forums that people say not to clean the salt cell anymore. That actually cleaning them shortens their life expectancy. Is that true?

I know that many on here like the Raypak atmospheric heater for the simple design and relatively less expensive repairs. That used to be the way they were all made.

Somewhere along the line the blower style became more prominent. Even Raypak has now gone that route with the Avia.

My question is why? If they heat the water with about the same efficiency what is the reason the industry has moved in that direction?

PB closed my pool last year. They did a terrible job. They didn’t winterize heater, they didn’t even take the salt salt out. They put a lot of algecides, God knows what else they put. They haven’t put gizmo or anything in the skimmers either!

I wanted to do it myself this year for the first time. I was planning to buy the cyclone pool line blower. My pool is a bit complicated, has in floor cleaning system, waterfalls, bubbles etc.

A pool professional recommended me to still go with PB since if something happens after closing, I could sue them for it. Is that true? How can I hold PB accountable and liable for anything bad happens like leaking, cracking etc once pool opened? Do I record a video everything functioning before closing? Do I take pics? How can I prove in courts they cause big problems? What are some of the ways to protect myself from their risky closing practices and put the liability on them? They are a big pool builder company, but they don’t respond to any emails or calls, so if Godfid smt happens, I am 100% sure that they will not return my calls unless I sue them.

They charge $500 for closing, I would rather them to do it if there is a way to prove in laws that they cause it smt bad happens. I really really appreciate any advice.

My pool is built 2 years ago. I am the 2nd owner. 25K gallon SWG, 20x40 gunite pebbletec. I maintained it throughout the summer.

Here are some pics.

Hello
I’m currently waiting on a replacement cell and power center. My 2 week old system stopped working over the weekend. The company is sending me a replacement but will be at least a week out. Does anyone recommend i put in some chlorine in the meantime?

In looking at the manual it does not appear that you can change the location of the controls in relation to the plumbing connections. Is that correct?

2 months ago, I noticed a leak of 2.5 inches per day so I called a leak detection company. They 1) pressurized all my pipes (passed) 2) conducted dye test on all jets around side of pool and skimmer basket (passed) and 3) used a microphone type device to listen for a leak at side jets and main drain (passed).

They suspected it was the seam where the skimmer basket meets tile in the opening so they epoxy’d it for 24 hours to see if leak would stop and it worked so I went ahead and got that regrouted and plastered which also worked.

Now, just last week I noticed I’m losing 2.5 inches per day. This time, I’m letting the leak drain the pool to see where it stops. I’m currently past the light which means it has to be the main drain I suppose but I’m confused on what exactly it could be down there since my pipes were just pressurized, and there’s no visible cracks. Where do I go from here?

Hi all,
Greetings from Southern Spain!

I wonder whether someone might be able to assist! My pool pump has stopped dosing the pH minus. It was working well a few days ago but then the tub ran dry and it's now stopped. I have replaced the tub for a full one but the pump is not drawing the liquid. I have switched the unit off and on again but this has not had any positive affect! I have attached a few images of the set up.

Any advice would be gratefully received!

Regards,
Richie.

The left side wheels are no longer turning so the awd not working. This includes the front left rubber spindle. I have thoroughly inspected and no debris etc stuck anywhere

So I got a used above ground pool and installed it myself it's been alot of work and now that I had it up and running a couple of months the sand filter went out so I ordered a new one and the pump that came with it is different it has a grounding lug on top of it and as I researched this I find I must run a 8 gage copper wire arround the entire pool attaching it to 4 different uprights, a grounding rod then back to the lug on top of the pool the problem is the pool is full of water 20,000 gallons so how am I supposed to get behind 4 of the uprights to bolt on the grounding lugs and get them tight????

My Maytronics dolphin premier robotic vacuum gets stuck on my 2 drain covers whether the pump is on or off. My vacuum has just been refurbished so it's working great. I tried maindrainclipon and for my drain covers I had to buy 2 for each cover, plus the install tool for $72 total. Those did not help. We also tried using pieces of a foam pool noodle zip-tied to the vacuum cord as recommended in the pamphlet that came with the maindrainclipons, and that didn't work either. With even a small piece it pulls the vacuum up so it's not making connection with the pool floor and won't climb walls. Maytronics suggested we try the Zodiac Unibridge drain cover or the Color Match Pool Fittings - VGB Drain covers. I hesitate to spend a lot more money before knowing if those work or not. I just asked Maytronics customer care about those items and they said I can take my vacuum in to a shop and they can fix it so it won't stick. When I asked what would be done to fix it, they told me they don't know, they're not a service technician and I can't get a message/question to their service technicians. Have any of you used these 2 options? For the Zodiac Unibridge, does it attach to something? How does it stay in place? Has anyone else been successful with this problem?

I am trying to find the source of an air leak. When I shut off the ball valve to the main drain, the amount of bubbles in the filter basket goes way down, so I think the leak is in that line somewhere. I took it apart, and I see a groove in the inlet pipe for the valve, should it have an o-ring? Photo attached.

Hello everyone! We recently had heavy rains, such that a bunch of fine sediment ran into pool. I’ve been running main pump and manually vacuuming, and pool water is slowly clearing up. All large debris has been removed, all that’s left is particles too small to be caught by surface skimmer or hand skimmer. Please see picture. I shocked pool, so discoloration is not algae. I’ve also been cleaning the cartridge filters daily. My question is, is it bad for the filters to clean them this often? Pool is about a month old and about 11k gallons. How long should it take for water to clear up? Thank you!

My son has a one year old 20K gallon pool with a Jandy Aqualink control center and a Nature-2, Fusion TriChlor tab chlorinator. Unfortunately, his weekly pool service company has been dropping trichlor tabs like candy into the feeder for one year now without considering climbing CYA levels, now measuring over 220ppm after only 12 months. The service guy is keeping chlorine levels over 8ppm to (in his words) "keep algae at bay."

When I built my pool 12 years ago, I had exactly the same issue with my pool service company. My CYA level was over 300ppm and the service company was keeping my chlorine levels near 10ppm - so I fired them, drained and refilled the pool - switched to a salt system in year #2 - and now service the pool myself and have never looked back. - all is good.

I'm recommending my son do the same thing (switch to salt) unless someone can convince me it's worth keeping the Nature-2 tab feeder. From what Nature-2 claims, you should be able to keep chlorine levels at .5 ppm with the mineralizer active once the pool is drained and CYA is brought back down to normal levels. So here are my questions:

1. Do we keep the Nature2 Fusion tab feeder or switch to salt? IMO, switching to salt and maintaining stabilizer levels myself has been much easier, but perhaps with the right person monitoring the pool, this system can work just fine.
2. If NO to above, which salt system would work best?
   1. Nature2 FusionSoft (I assume drops right into the same spot as the outgoing Nature2 Fusion with no plumbing changes).
   2. Jandy Aquapure PLC1400
   3. Other?
3. His Aqualink control panel does not have the power supply and LCD board required for a salt generator - so is the Jandy Aquapure with PureLink a better fit, or does the Nature2 FusionSoft use the same power supply?
4. For both salt generators above it appears from what I can gather on the net - that one must purchase BOTH the salt cell AND a power supply. The Jandy Aquapure PLC1400 sells for approx $995. I assume one must fork out another $995 (approx) for a power supply?

Sorry the multitude of questions, but hoping someone with more knowledge may be able to help.

Cheers and thanks . .
MB

We are upgrading our 9x18 to a 12x24 and I was hoping I could utilize my existing 1.5" PVC hard piping. Can someone please measure center to center on their 12x24 intakes. Would be appreciated

As my filters get dirty the pressure guage used to get higher but it's started getting lower. Anyone know why this would happen? I'm suspecting a bad guage since everything else appears to be working.

Well, ok, hi, I posted a long request for help, I'm not a bot...don't know what else to do.

Hi we are new pool owners in Texas as of this summer. We have a 10 thousand gallon saltwater fiberglass pool. We love it but are still clueless of what we’re doing. We’ve done well all summer at keeping it crystal clear but the last couple weeks it’s started to cloud up.. not sure what is happening… any suggestions/ideas/thoughts

I'm getting my pool re-plastered with StoneScapes this week, so I thought I should look into what chemicals I might need for the Orenda startup I saw in the wiki. After testing the water I'm going to be using to fill my pool, I found that it has a pH of 7.8, CH of 250, and TA of 200, giving it an LSI of +0.56. What should I do?

What do y’all storage your pool in during the winter? Have a Colman 22ft 52 inch pool and looking for ideas for when I take it down. Thanks

This backyard/pool project has taken 3 years. Filled her up about 30 days ago. I've been going to the local Leslies and doing tests to keep the levels balanced up to this point. Upon reviewing all the options to keep her clean and clear easily... most were expensive or required costly subscriptions. Ordered the chemical testing set recommended here and am banking on the pool nerd community to help figure out what the heck I'm doing.

If there is an interest - I'll update pics to this thread of the project as it progresses.

Hello, I have an "INFINITY 4000 AUTOMATIC SAFETY POOL COVER UNDER TRACK SYSTEM".
I replaced the rope on the non-motor side last year but I forgot to zip-tie the auto stop sensor attached to guide feed. Eventually the wire sensor snapped and guide feed subsequently broke the already corroded track.
I am wondering if there is anywhere I can purchase the track itself since I will also replace the rope on the motor side? The description of the track is "Outside Slider Under Track - 22' (Part #55031)"
https://www.manualslib.com/.../Pool-Cover-Specialists...
I've looked online where I bought the replacement rope but am unable to find the track only.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
TLDR: I need to purchase a track for my Infinity 4000 auto cover under track system.

wkillham said:

Go to poolheatpumps.com. Great selection, plenty of help with sizing. I have a 110k btu gulfstream for my 20x40 gunite in MD. It will raise them 10 degrees a day without issues.

Click to expand...

Do you ever wish you had gone with more btu’s?

We’re having an 18’x36’, 10’ deep, built now and I bought an AquaCal t115 which is 112k btu’s and I’m wondering if I should have gone bigger. That’s why I’m in here looking at other’s thoughts.

I’m assuming it works fine when it’s warm and the extra btu’s would be handy at the beginning of the season and end.
We’re in Pittsburgh.