Ok, I'm SLAMMING briefly as I think i'm good, doing OCLT tonight, but my last 2 tests my chlorine has gone UP and I haven't added any. My salt is 1000 so my SWG isn't working but just to confirm I shut it off. I have never had this happen but now I question my OCLT ability. I did the last 2 twice to make sure I wasn't messing up. at 4:20 I tested at 12.5, 6:40 14 and 8:20 16. Is this even possible? I only added chlorine once today. 2 gallons this afternoon to get it up to 12 for a SLAM.

I have a Speck ES90 II pump with a single speed US Motors EZ48 KSSJXRME-2238 motor. I think the seal has failed, as the motor is quite rusted. I'm hoping to replace the bearings and the seals and give it a bit more life. One of the thru-bolts snapped off when I disassembled it, but I was able to get it all apart.
My bolt is 8" long with a 1/4" hex head. I've seen some generic 8-32 thru-bolts that are 9" long, can I use those and cut them short?

I haven't pulled the bearings yet. The markings on the bearing are 6203DW, which sounds like a fairly standard bearing. The shaft looks quite rusted around the bearing. I'm hoping to get a bearing puller to remove it. Do you think this is possible given the corrosion?
If the motor is too far gone, I would also be interested in swapping out the motor for a variable speed motor, while keeping the Speck pump part. Can I find another 48-frame variable speed motor to swap out?

My pool is due for a renovation. The main issue is the infinity edge is leaking causing water to get behind the weir wall stone and behind the catch basin pebble finish. Everything on the “dry” side of the weir wall is delaminating. I had 3 highly recommended pool contractors come take a look and provide a quote. The first contractor came out in June, the 2nd contractor came out in early July, and the 3rd contractor came out last week. I have received no quotes and only “we are working on it”. Is it typical to wait months for a quote? I realize my renovation is more complex than usual, but months to quote seems excessive. I’m now considering doing the tile and stone repairs myself and hiring a plaster company to refinish the pebble. Is that crazy? I’ve done tile and stone repairs on the pool already. One of the pool contractors even complimented the work without knowing I did the repairs.

Hi guys. I just took over taking care of my pool and it's been going okay, but I don't think the suction is working well enough as the pool has looked a little cloudy and there is detritus at the bottom of the pool despite the chems looking good (Leslie's testing).

The pool is about 12,000 gallons. I run my Intelliflo at 1500 RPM for 8 hours, then at 2400 RPM for 2 hours. At 1500 RPM, the crawler doesn't move and there is zero water moving through the skimmer. At 2400, the movement is okay on both. Maybe I'm misremembering, but I think the water used to flow pretty well through the skimmer when it was on 1500 RPM. The filter is clean (I cleaned it only about 2 months ago) and the skimmer and pump baskets are clean. I got a drain king and flushed the pipes fairly quickly, but didn't see any obvious problems. I flushed the air out of the filter and I backwashed for a minute or two a few times. I also unscrewed the valve that diverts the water to the skimmer or crawler and it was clear inside.

Should the crawler and skimmer be moving pretty well at 1500 RPMs? Any ideas to get the water moving better besides raising the RPMs? Thanks very much!

Sold and shipped by Amazon. Is it fake? To me it's 100% not original. Doesn't add any pressure even while cleaning algae.

Pool is open and want to get the pool testing underway to get the balancing done. Are there any concerns with water temp affecting the results in the TFP kit?

Hi all,

I just finished the installation of a brand new Intelliph and I’m looking for a sanity check…

My rotor rotates CLOCKWISE and based on the instructions, the INLET is the right tube and the OUTLET is the left tube. Wouldn’t this setup be pulling water from the OUTLET side and feeding into the tank?

When I do a manual dispense, I see bubbles coming from the intake tube and entering the tank.

There is also an UP arrow on the right inlet and a DOWN arrow on the left inlet.

Can anyone confirm which way the rotor SHOULD be rotating?

And, is there a way to invert its rotation?

I’ve included pics, and here’s a link to a video:


Thank you!

I have a pool + spa ~15000 gallons combo with a variable speed 1HP pump and heater. The pool is able to either circulate pool only, spa only, or spa spillover into pool. Does anyone have any recommendations of a schedule to maximize efficiency of the pump and also the heater so the spa doesn't loose too much heat due to circulation? So far, it seems that I am getting a chlorine loss of about 1-1.5 ppm a day. In addition, does any one have any tips or guides of a good rpm for the pump for the pool and spa mode?

For the past at least 10 years I have used a 90 day algaecide in my pool in the North Fl summer months. This past winter because of health issues I lost my pool for the first time ... Green/black a mud pit. Anyway all fixed for the past month but Ive not had the sparkly water Ive had all my pool use days. 2 days ago I put in my 90 day algae prevention copper based and my pool is super sparkly again ... finally. So Ive read about potential issues with hair, equipment and God knows what else. I don't want to start an argument but I find it much easier to use the "liquid chlorine" method (more forgiving) for taking care of my pool.

WHY should I not use Copper in my pool? Looking for answers. IS it dangerous in some way to my and others health? Oh I have a cheap ... cheaper than an in-ground pool 16x32 Intex pool that I love and have loved for 4 years now. Way cheaper and easier to maintain than a $45,000 hole in the ground.

Where do you get good straps for attaching your solar cover to the pool cover reel. The ones you buy with the attachment (plastic) hardware disintegrate in the heat and sun of Arizona. Any suggestions as to where to buy some more durable strapping?

I have 3 year old Blue Works Model BLH60-A SWG. I moved my pool equipment to a covered warmer place this past summer so I did not close my pool this winter. I notice back in the fall the salinity read 2200 despite knowing it was higher - assumed it was due to colder water temp. Today officially tried to make sure the pool was ready for the summer - water temp 69 deg F. Measured salinity with electronic reader and it was over 3400.
I cleaned the SWG with muriatic acid water mixture for 30 min.

Afterwards it still reads 2200 -- I wouldn't worry about inaccurate reading but after running the pool and SWG for 12h or so I get a "SLO" error. I am prtty sure some chlorine is being generated but nowhere near normal amount.

Sugggestions for troubleshooting or fixing?

Thanks!!

Hi! I am new to the forum. Wife and I have a 30000 gallon inground pool (I tried measuring it and it comes out to more like 25-28,000 gallons) and I am wanting to purchase something I can put in the water and have it reasonably clean the
over-winter muck from the pool floor. This pool has a 4' deep shallow end and 8' deep end. I am 61 years old and the constant strain of trying to vacuum it out (only to hear my pump
run dry after a few minutes of vacuuming) is taking its toll in the hot summers here in Opelika, Al.

I don't mind vacuuming , but want a robotic cleaner to cut down on losing all that water going out the Waste pipe (75 gallons a minute!)

I don't have $2000 for a unit, and don't care to have a Polaris that requires a separate pump, so am wondering if something like the Aiper Seagull Pro ZT6002, Dolphin Nautilus CC, or Aqua Products Evo614iq might
do the trick, although I couldn't care less about wifi on a pool cleaner.

I will listen, with gratitude, to any advice given.

Thanks!

-Thomas

I have a Maytronics M600 that is now out of warranty. The unit will start forward, start backwards, and the impeller will go for a few second. At that time it shuts off and indicates with the Red LED on the front of the cleaner and ultimately the red ring on the power supply. Things I have looked at:

1. impeller is clear of any debris, and it moves freely in both directions
2. I have cleaned all intakes and debris basket
3. brushes and gears work in both directions
4. no moisture in the motor box
5. no burnt up ends, cables, or connections that can be seen in the motor box of the unit
6. tested the battery pack and got 29
7. looked at the internals of the anti-twist cable enclosure and none of the connections in the plug are damaged or corroded
8. tested continuity from the anti-twist device to the motor of the unit and it does

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone,


This is the first time I am posting to this forum, though I have been reading it for a while now, and it's been eye-opening. I live in Las Vegas, and I am getting ready for the new pool season. I'll be draining my pool (water has been 3 years old) and refilling it. I’ve been using chlorine tablets all these years, which has led to a significant increase in CYA levels. Last summer, it was very difficult to keep my pool clean, and I assume the high CYA levels were the reason, as they required more and more chlorine to prevent algae (?)


From my understanding, after reading posts on this forum, I should switch to liquid chlorine. With the appropriate test kit, I plan to test the chlorine frequently and adjust the levels by only adding liquid chlorine. If I do this, is there still any reason to empty and refill my pool every three years? Or is this something pool companies/service recommend because they use chlorine tablets, and they know that CYA levels get out of control after three years, thus requiring a water replacement to start over?


Lastly, if I need to leave for some time during the summer, would it be okay to hire someone to add tablets just for that period? Or could this still be detrimental to my CYA levels? Asking that, becasue it’s difficult to find someone who can come every two days to check the chlorine and add liquid chlorine as frequently.


Thank you all for your help!


Regards,

Tasos

I thought I would give a DIY automation a try. I originally started with some old compool parts and a pi zero w and a small electrical panel from Amazon. I was thinking small and compact, which was a terrible idea, think sun touch.
I don’t know python, but I know enough JavaScript. Using the onoff library I was able to get the gpio to control the 8 channel relay. This relay has a maximum load of 10amps. So good enough to handle actuators and higher load relays and fireman switch. The transformer is from cp3600, it steps down to 24, 18, and 12 vac. I should also mention the relay is a nc/c/no, so this works perfect for controlling actuators. The 24 vac was used to control the actuators. I used a ac/dc buck converter on the 20vac converting it to vdc to control the high voltage relays. On the 10vac I used another buck converter to drop it down to 5vdc to power the pi zero. The idea was to minimize space, I was trying to avoid having to add an outlet for a 24vdc power supply, and usb.
As far as the framework, I am using nodejs express onoff. The pi is running headless and serving up the ui using express.
Here is the repo if you like bad code.
The part that I didn’t realize would take so much time is planning the layout inside the panel. Creating dividers for high and low voltage, and making everything accessible and replaceable. I used blender and cura for the prints. If I was to do it again, I would just use a larger panel. Here is the progress so far, I’ll continue to update as I go. Please feel free to critique and advise.

I noticed on the the Pentair Pool App, there is no longer an option for SWG percentage for spa mode. I verified that my IC40 no longer produces when in spa mode. I know previously you could choose up to 20% during spa operation. I sent the question to Pentair support, but they never answered the question. Any ideas on why they did that?

I replaced my flow sensor recently and cleaned the cell grids. I replaced the sensor because after a few minutes of running, i would get no flow. The board tested fine per the test instructions from jandy. Even after replacing the sensor, I still get no flow after a few minutes of running. This is with a clean DE filter and adequate flow to run suction side vacuum and spa spillover.

The pool is about 3 years old. I live in the CA high desert and have high calcium levels. Right now, 650ppm. I don't want to drain the pool every year and have read that higher calcium levels are OK so long as ph and alkalinity are well managed, and negative csi is sustained. I monitor water chemistry religiously and pool is always balanced.

The grids show some corrosion, but it doesn't seem excessive to me. The few minutes when the cell is running, i see bubbles from the returns as i normally would, so I believe it is working.

My questions:
1. Is it possible that the cell has failed and needs to be replaced? I don't imagine that a failing cell would cause no flow, and I assume it would throw error codes of some sort?
2. It also seems as if the pool builder wired the aquapure system to be always on. I have a current generation jandy VS pump with the PUMPIQ01 controller. I assume that the aquapure system should be wired to the pumps auxiliary. There are no relays in the aquapure electrical box.
3. The pool was built just three years ago. If it's supposed to be wired so that the aquapure system is completely off when the pump isn't running, I intend to reach out to the builder and ask that the problem be corrected.

Oddly, I'm able to sustain adequate chlorine levels with pump running 8 hours per day on high and the cell set to 50%, which makes me believe it is cycling between flow and no flow throughout the day. I haven't had hours to sit and watch the system as it runs as i work full time, have young kids, and am trying to wrap up a masters degree at the moment.

I appreciate any help that can be provided. I love this site and the TFP method has helped me have an algae free crystal clear pool since the day we first filled it. I'm just at my wits end with the generator. I'm tempted to throw in the towel and just use liquid chlorine at this point as it would be easier than spending hours fooling around with the generator that doesn't work dependably.

Help me TFP, you're my only hope... Other than paying a pool company way too much money to come figure this out for me! LOL

I have an IC40 with no lights active on the cell itself. I saw the 12 amp fuse/low voltage breaker was tripped, and thought replacing it would remedy the issue but it hasn't. I've seen vids that indicate the salt board could be the problem, other input claims the entire cell is bad. What evidence is needed to determine the true issue at hand? Easytouch control panel.

hi! the house came with an old concrete pool and these items in the photo -
heater, DE filter and 1HP pump.
i guess the pump was left running over the winter for a weekend without water and now it looks like its burned out and the pipes seem melted (photo below was taken 1.5 yrs ago when we paid for a pool survey). how that happened? i installed a wifi timer (this site helped me figure out the wiring!) and somehow it ended up engaging on its own or butt dialed, whatever it was i noticed 3 days later the pump was running after i winterized it.
I bought a

1. used 700sq ft cartridge filter Hayward C7030
2. new Pentair IC60 salt cell
3. new china 2hp pump (yes i know, but the price is crazy to not at least try)

The idea i have is to DIY the following:

1. remove the DE filter
2. Remove the multi-port valve
3. ramove the pump
4. install the cartridge filter
5. install the pump
6. install the salt cell

Question A:
the 2 white pipes coming out of the heater, i assume the right one is the return to the pool pipe? is that where i need to put the salt cell? is hot water going through the cell ok?
i read somewhere:

1. the chlorinated water coming out of the salt cell shouldnt go into the heater, get heated up then go into the pool - is that true? "needs to be placed "after" the heater? fyi the heater will not be on much, i assume a total of 14-30 days a year in the summer
2. the salt cell should be on a higher than the pump level

Question B:
the filter - should it have a bypass valve? for when i want to "back wash" or vaccuum the pool gunk? any advice on what valve to get?
Question C:
is removing the pump and filter and attaching new pipes, joints, gluing - is that easy to do with youtubing advice? i realize i need a cutter for the pipes, glue and primer and some planning skills.

Question D:
looking at the old photo - is there a pipe config you suggest given i am redoing most of it?
(misc status - the pool is a mess tiles are falling off, a couple of large water line cracks, plaster chipping, old lights were removed filled and painted on looks scary, and now theres a leak that lost 2 ft of water and stopped half way (i emptied the water to just below the return jets and over the winter it dropped 2ft! and stopped).

When I start getting lowered output in my returns, and a small bubble appears in the basket closest to the pump:
So I know that the less output in my returns can be clogged filters??
The bubble in the basket means air is not getting purged out(routinely there is no bubble in the basket, so probably an incomplete seal??
When I open the cartridge barrel, under these circumstances, my cartridge holder seems to always be tilting off its normal position.
Why does it do this? Am I doing something wrong? Incoming water pressure too high??
I have already confirmed the barrel itself is sitting level.
Please help.

Desperately trying to find a solution to this since there are no local dealers that will work on an Artesian spa.

Our hot tub stopped heating. We've replaced the display panel because it was fading and needed done anyway. After connecting to power it would display Pr to indicate priming and then show a wildly high temperature when it's actually like 65 degrees. Turn the jets on and the display rapidly climbs to 110 followed by an overheat warning or HFL indicating that a significant difference between temperature sensors was detected.

So we bought a new HQ heater assembly and replaced that. Again it's showing a temperature much higher than it actually is. Would also sometimes display 'dr' indicating poor water flow or bubbles in the heater. LED for Filter 1 2 also lit but I don't know what that means--both are installed.

Running out of ideas. Bad circuit board?

Is there a proper way the clean the baskets. Pump on /off, skimmer valve open are closed, skimmer first filter second. Be great if I knew the sequin and procedure. Thank You in advance

Hello. I am a second-time poster. There is always a white sediment in the bottom of my pool. It kicks up when the sweeper is running and makes the water more mirky. This is what I have done over the course of 18 months to no avail:

Replaced the original stainless steel DE filter with a used Hayward DE7220 filter and got rid of the backflush valve.
Replaced the grids to my Hayward DE7220 DE filter.
Replaced the grids again with more expensive grids.
Replaced the DE filter with a Hayward W3C5030 cartridge filter. Then, drained the pool, flushed pipes and refilled pool.

Still, there is quite bit of white sediment, very visible at the bottom of the pool in the morning.

I'd be grateful for any help. Thanks.

john

The board in my hottub went and I am trying to find a replacement, but I am not sure about the specifics. My board is a Balboa V500z P/N22972_E. My hottub has two pumps, a heater (of course), LED lights (that I dont care about), a speaker system (which again I don't care about), and an ozonator (I think its called). Its also 240.

I have seen many boards that are VS500 and VS501. Are they interchangeable? For example, will this one work?


Also, if it says NO AIR BLOWER, does that mean it wont make the bubbles?

We have an above ground pool with a composite deck around half of it. We bought a 'cheap' cantilever/offset umbrella that had a metal cross-base with plastic snap-together sections filled with sand that fit on top of the metal feet at Bed Bath & Beyond 3 years ago. Now, the umbrella itself has developed some small holes and the wine red color is now mostly light pink, so we are replacing the whole thing. The metal feet under the weighted sand base left rusted places on the composite decking. I researched how to remove the rust and am having pretty good luck getting it off. The new umbrella is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'm not sure if the base is the same, with the metal feet sitting directly on the decking and the sand-filled base on top of that or not, but I imagine it probably is.

My question is how should I best protect the deck so that the metal feet don't rust onto it? I've read suggestions online of putting a grill mat or wicker mat under the feet, and those will probably work. Although the feet are already painted, what about spraying the bottom of the feet with some extra coat of paint? If that is advised, what type of paint - regular spray paint, lacquer, automotive undercoating, etc.? I wouldn't want the paint to wear off and get on the decking. We don't plan to move the umbrella around regularly, so it wouldn't be dragged too much, but may move it slightly for readjustments or when cleaning the deck periodically.

All ideas are appreciated.

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. So now let's see your water clarity.

Hello. I noticed my local pool store is now testing for Phosphates. I have never had a test for those. My level came back at 3,762. Is this something that needs to be addressed? I suppose the concern is algae growth, but I have never had algae and stay on top of my chlorine.

As the title says, my Speedstir decided to quit working at the end of last season. I took it apart but there are no mechanical parts in there to fix. Anyone have any suggestions short of buying another one?

On that note, are the Smart Stirs a better product?

One minute everything was working and now the control panel flashes on and off. I need help have tried everything I can see and all appears okay. With the controller flashing off and on, nothing works.

Hi, I replaced a Hayward pump with a variable speed Pureline Pump in 2019 and it's been working pretty well except last summer, the digital display stopped working. My previous schedule had been saved so I was able to get the pool opened by using the override buttons to keep it running, but I'd like to get the display working again.

It's a Century /AO Smith V-Green 270 user interface controller. I removed the display from the pump and expected to see some corrosion from water seeping into the control board, but it's pristine.

Any other suggestions on what could be wrong? Or anything else I should try to get the display up and working. i already disconnected the display cable and cleaned it but again, it looked perfectly fine.

This is the controller info page, but it came with my Pureline PL2626 pump
A.O. Smith V-Green 270 User Interface - 2520652-001 - INYOPools.com

Pics attached also.
Thanks for any ideas you might have.