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Glycerin Filled Pressure Gauge

T
I knew I could count on some fun answers. Thanks all. I will probably just go with polycarbonate as I've not found any complaints of them fogging in my searches here. I wasn't worried about the glass (I did think about it) since my equipment is behind a block wall from the pool, and I can't remember if I've ever had my pump basket open when I was working on or cleaning the filter. I just want to not have a foggy lens again in a couple of years. I will also be adding a shade over the equipment that I haven't had in 23 years because I don't want my new RJ45 cell to get foggy either.
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We Have a Winner! TFP Pool of the Month (May 2025) - "Cannonball!" - Family Fun

Webster
Texas Splash said:
Folks, let's congratulate @Webster (Post #4) for being voted as this month's TFP ("Cannonball" - Family Fun) Pool of the Month. @Webster , you have to tell us more about all the fun going on there. Looks great. :goodjob:

Check back and we'll do this again next month.

@Webster , be on the lookout for your $50 discount code from tfteskits.net.
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Thank You TFP Community!
Well First I'd like to thank God, My wife and the stars of the image, my kids!

What's going on there? Well we had only been in the house for 3 months, I'm pretty sure I had not found the TFP community yet, I was still getting jerked around at pool stores. Anyway, kids wanted to jump in on a 3 count and I wanted to use the slo motion feature on my phone because I don't typically use it. So that image is actually a screen grab from a short video. I posted the video for those who want to see. I'll leave it up for a month or so. Watch the video here.

Thanks again!

PS: This is so timely because I need a refill kit for all my Taylor k2006.
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

KBreuer15
Newdude said:
Hey KB and Welcome !! Here it is in the bottom paragraph, right from Hayward

View attachment 644200



But dont feel too bad, most of us listened to the folks who had no business doling advice. We were all there once, and its why we got you now. Because it sucked and we never forgot that helpless feeling.
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Thank you!
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Looks like I need a new SWG

C
bradgray said:
Is your Easytouch salt ready? Easiest way to tell is to look for the small black 4-pin connection on the bottom front-left of the panel. If so, IntelliChlor is a logical choice.
If not, you will need to purchase the power center for the cell. Adds a measurable cost. You'd then have to Rs485 to the panel to control the salt cell.
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Got home from a business trip. I do not have a relay in place for the Intellichlor so looks like I need the power center. Have a call in to Marina Pool and Spa....
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2nd Time Pool Owner

C
Got back from my trip. I have started the SLAM. Backwashed the filter and added DE. Ph is 7.2. CYA is 50 (I read the page on performing the CYA test and that helped). That had me shooting for an FC of 20. Added 7 gal of liquid chlorine, but the chlorine I bought at Lowes was 10% so when that was revised it said ~4 gallons.

Salt cell is off so I will test regularly to keep it at 20.

Hopefully I am understanding this correctly. Will be at home for the next 10 days so hopefully is enough time to complete the SLAM (and hopefully get a new SWG on order and installed).
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Screenshot_20250508_200418_Chrome.jpg

Newdude
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SWG & Booster Pump Plumbing Dilemma

pool_novice
TinFoilHat said:
The booster pump should go to a "return" in the side of the pool that the pool vacuum plugs into. It's separate from the normal filter returns so it's not a concern. Add your pool and equipment details to your signature then we all know what you have.
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Thanks. I think I added my details, hopefully to the right place.

The booster does feed to its own smaller return in the pool that the Polaris 280 plugs into. But the booster pump always has some water flowing through it when the main pump is running (even when the booster itself is off). It was my understanding that the booster pump is usually fed from a T off the main return lines.

I have read that putting a SWG upstream of other equipment like a booster pump or heater would wear out the downstream equipment more quickly.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

P
PoolStored said:
As I said earlier, the pressure switches are really not accurate, most are set lower than the flow threshold, manufacturers should put in FLOW switches.
Why do you think they recommend the calibration port? So you can ensure the temperature rise TELLS you you have adequate flow.
My recommendation stands.
  • Run at 2200-2400. Heaters are very expensive to replace, a bit of electricity is insurance to not kill the heater because it overheated with low flow.
  • Or, get a flow meter to determine you are getting the flow. Put it after the heater.
  • Or do as the manual recommends, install the port and measure the temperature rise.
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Alright sounds good. The extra 300rpms won’t kill me haha. Set it back to 2200 for 24/7
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

PoolStored
Pas_pool said:
Alright just went out and played around with RPMs. At 1900RPMs the heat pump kicks on. So that must be where I’m getting 30gpm. So would 2000rpms suffice to run 24/7?
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As I said earlier, the pressure switches are really not accurate, most are set lower than the flow threshold, manufacturers should put in FLOW switches.
Why do you think they recommend the calibration port? So you can ensure the temperature rise TELLS you you have adequate flow.
My recommendation stands.
  • Run at 2200-2400. Heaters are very expensive to replace, a bit of electricity is insurance to not kill the heater because it overheated with low flow.
  • Or, get a flow meter to determine you are getting the flow. Put it after the heater.
  • Or do as the manual recommends, install the port and measure the temperature rise.
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Pool Pump Flow Low

D
I had a bit of a mishap while opening the pool this year. While priming the filter, I mistakenly left the return plugs in place. The system wasn't running for long, and I haven’t noticed any drop in the water level, but something still seems off. Specifically, the pool vacuum has very low suction, even when set to high. The pool filters were extremely dirty, so I cleaned them, and afterward, the “low flow” light on the heater turned off, which seemed like a good sign. However, when I attempted to vacuum the pool again today, the suction was still poor. I began cleaning the filters a second time. They're from 2019, so they’re not new but don’t appear to be in terrible shape. While removing them, I noticed a hole that I’m not sure is supposed to be there.

Can you let me know if this hole is expected, and whether the low suction might be related? Hoping that it is just related to poor filters. I have a short video i can share. This is the inside of the filter
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Question about Taylor Test

PoolStored
What is your pH? Post that first, pic might help...of the pH comparator during test.
If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero (or negative), and your PH is very very low (4.5 or lower).
Use Soda Ash aka Washing Soda. Calculate how much to use using Poolmath. Set pH of 6.8 now and 7.5 as target. Enter 0 for TA. Add amount it states and circulate 30 minutes. Test pH, repeat until your pH is in the 7's, then test TA.
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