Good morning - did the FC test at 6:30 and it’s at 9.
So that’s a 1.5 increase over 9 hours at 100% output.
Low?

Turn output up to 100%. The cell light should light. At 0 output the cell is not producing and the cell light will be off.

Brian.O1484 said:

idk why I tested that I guess I was just in a groove this morning lol

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Lighting is 95% of the test. You need overhead sun as directed, especially when new at it. If you have any daylight bulbs inside, compare them VS outside. While they dont come close to actual, i found the daylight LED shop lights in my garage and the highhat LEDs I put in my kitchen work great in a pinch.

You can pour the sample back and forth as many times as you need.

Brian.O1484 said:

All tests with the 25mL sample size

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Switch to 10ml and save 2.5X the supplies for FC and CH. The finer resolution isnt needed in any capacity.

All tests with the 25mL sample size

5/8/25 5:30am
3.5ppm FC
0 Combined
0 CYA

5/8/25 4:00pm
2.5ppm FC
0 Combined
0 CYA

Added 32oz (1 qt) chlorine
Tested again at 530 at about 8ppm FC and 17ppm combined
Dissolved 8oz of CYA in a bucket and slowly added to the pool, including what was in the rag the past week (which is almost gone) that a total of 38oz/2.375 lbs

Tested at 5:30 am this morning
5.5ppm FC; 2.5 ppm drop from last night I guess an hour isn't long enough to wait till the chlorine disperses
0 Combined
0 CYA (I know, 24 hours! idk why I tested that I guess I was just in a groove this morning lol)

Cannot be unseen. THANKS ALOT.

And off we GO !!!!

When did you last add chlorine ? (Or is the SWG on?)

How does the water look ?

0 CYA can be normal after winter or a red flag.

nodnarb481 said:

BR: 1

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For the block test its either or, not CL and Br 5-10. Its CL 5 BR 10. (Etc) disregard Br entirely.

And the FC block test isnt very accurate and is vague. Skip that too and do the powder test exclusively. Basically we need the block for the Ph side. Mess with it down the road one day maybe.

DanandKathy said:

Any update on pool math coming to computers/laptops?

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Sorry for the delay in responding, I'm excited to be able to say........kinda.


Jon and I have been working once again aggressively on the App the past month with us already preforming a handful of major actions. Thing is, nobody really noticed......and that was a good thing. Just like last year was a year of bringing the App's "language" into a more modern state, this year we're doing the same with the server. We know it's resulting in nothing exciting so far, but it's a step that we had to take.

This year Jon has basically went back and redid a TON of the stuff behind the scenes on the server that's helping optimize the way data is saved, accessed, and sorted behind the scenes. This server update is the first major server action that's been taken in the 8 years of the App, and was one that was a MUST preform this year. Had we not of taken the actions we did this Winter and basically re-organized things behind the scenes there's no doubt in our minds PoolMath would have taken a dive later this year and crashed as we simply maxed out the old setup. As a result we're now in a position to handle the continued growth the App is seeing plus we've (hopefully) addressed a few other items behind the scenes few ever seen. One of the examples of this so far is the "Share API" page and the ongoing date issue where it'll show test results being saved in the future. It's our hope that Jon was able to address this issue, but we're not 100% sure as we can't really test things.

These actions have resulted in some very large hiccups so far this year that's basically crashed the servers, and to be honest we kinda knew this was gonna occur,




Whenever one of these "spikes" have occurred it's basically brought the App to its knees making it unusable. To help address this In we've temporarily increased the servers resources to help toss extra hardware at the issue while we worked to figure out exactly what was occurring. Jon has been aggressively tracking the root causes of these spikes down and addressing things to help continue to make things stable, and we're hopeful he's very close to being complete with all the behind the scenes rubbish that nobody really cares about.


Now, to directly answer your question. This year we're actually looking further at putting the Windows App to rest. We've already removed it from the App Store and I'm meeting today to hopefully get it removed from the PoolMath teaser page. The Windows App was a gamble in the very early days of the App we made, and it was one we've lost on unfortunately. We're taking the same look at how things are fairing for Amazon devices as well, as things never really took off here as well. In exchange Jon has been working more on the PoolMath WebApp that is going to allow any user to be able to address the program via a web browser. This we're expecting is going to our next focus for desktop devices and is where Jon has already pushed a few updates on a few months ago. It's still in its very early stages of testing and is still VERY messy, but we are slowly pushing forward on making this work for our users. If you'd like to give this a try we'd love some feedback that can be sent to [email protected]. We understand that the feedback will likely be overwhelmingly negative at this stage, but we are slowly working on bringing the state of this into something we can start promoting as something that's high in quality.

Alrighty I took my tests. Did each twice to be sure and it was consistent. Here's what I got:

FAS-DPD
FC: 1
CC: 1.5

CYA: dot never obscured. I assume that means I have none in the pool at all.

TA: 130-140

CL: 0.5
BR: 1
ph: 8.2

CH: 450

Salt: 2,800-3000.
For the salt, my meter is reading 3300 or so. So I think I need to rinse off the sensor.

PoolStored said:

You are about the same lattitude...so same same. Cover will reduce FC consumption.
This is what I do:

1. Don't try to micromanage the % output daily. Once you know what it takes (log everything in PM), you will learn what % to run each month.
2. FC can drift up/down over the week. Since it is safe up to slam level just keep it within range or a bit above.
3. With the cover on, (May, early June) I run 5-10%. June/July 15%, Aug/Sep 10-15%. You will find your ranges.
4. When we get in to swim and cover comes off, SWG goes to 50 or 60% depending on the number of people, the sun etc. When we are done, and cover goes on, SWG goes back to baseline (or I might leave it on until 8 or 9). The increase output while swimming offsets the demand. That way I only have to change the output when we are out there, or have to wait to test at the end of the day, adjust output up, then remember to turn if off in the morning.
5. ^^^Your cell makes 8FC in 24 hours in your pool. Mine makes 13 in my pool. Me turning it 50% on for 6 hours will make 1.5 (additional demand from swimmers). That would me you would need to run closer to 70/80/90 to make up the same. If you try this route, when you open turn it up to 80, then back down, see how that works.

This system just works for me. Might work for you!

Click to expand...

Great info. Thanks!!

Do you know of any suitable, appropriate, Pentair, drop in replacements?

ajw22 said:

No pics??

Picture Posting and Resizing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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thanks for catching that. i uploaded them to imgur then forgot to attach the link...should be fixed now.

Turbolag said:

Why do you say to not run the pump a full RPM?

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There is no reason, other than priming, to run a VSP at full speed.

Run your pump for a reason. Many of us run at very low speed to save $$ in electrical cost.

See:
Pump Runtimes/Speeds-->Pump Basics - Further Reading

As for new cord ring, @1poolman1 and I *may* disagree. I have followed the manual to NOT lubricate the cord ring and have found very good service (no leaks).

Do the swim jets have nozzles that can be removed?

Welcome to TFP.

Please post your pictures on the forum. Many folks will not click through to other sites.


@proavia may be able to explain your IFCS.

Why is the Output 0 in the picture yiu posted?

Enter “Diagnostic Mode” by pressing and hold the MORE button for 3 seconds, until light indicates you are in diagnostic mode.

While in “Diagnostic Mode”, you can advance to the next screen by pressing the MORE button. You will not be able to go back to the previous screen. You can only advance by pressing the MORE button.

The LESS button has different functions during diagnostic mode that are explained in the manual.

Note: Be sure you are not in Output Percentage mode (Output flashing). In this mode, pressing and holding the MORE button will only fast-forward the output setting.

Tell us what is displayed as you cycle through the diagnostics.

1poolman1 said:

Is it a continuous leak or just on start-up. Those filters will sometimes leak on start-up and then stop. you should not be running the new pump at full RPM, though it will start on a higher RPM to prime. If continuous you need a new O ring. You replace them when they don't work. There is no typical time to replace. Just be glad you don't have to purchase it OEM now. For years that is all that was available and they were crazy expensive.

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Why do you say to not run the pump a full RPM?

It was a continuous leak. I ended up sourcing an OEM one from my local pool store. It's very expensive at $81, but given such a critical role in the system & given it's not something I'll be buying all the time, I bit the bullet. What I found interesting & possibly helpful to others was only when I removed the old O-ring, did I notice a lot of sand in the groove below it. I was able to vacuum out some of the sand while I had to scrape out some that was a bit hard as well. That might have actually been the source of the leak, not allowing the ring to properly seat. I would have tried that prior to replacing had I realized it. I coated the new ring with magic lube & installed it. Although visually it looked like the same dimensions of the old one, it didn't compress nearly as much as with the old one. The knobs tightened down far on the old one. Going forward, I'll remove the O-ring and clean underneath it at least when closing the pool.

crackers8199 said:

you can see this in the pics).

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No pics??

mikeoliver1313 said:

So if the cell is depleted does that mean it will not make chlorine anymore?

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Correct

mikeoliver1313 said:

How hard is it to replace the cell?

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Unscrew two unions and one electrical connector.

mikeoliver1313 said:

And what will adding salt to the pool do still?

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It may cause your salt level to be too high if you do not have a salt trst kit.

mikeoliver1313 said:

And I only run the pump 8 hours a day if that matters any

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It doesn’t.

I don’t think putting pipe under the hopper buys you anything.

General concept is to drain water away from the sides of the liner to lower ground water level around the pool.

You have 26 days.

Post a full set of chemistry readings and we can go from there.

Alternatively, hire a service person to get the pool clean and operational.