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BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

NPT StoneScapes Aqua White Mini Pebble

Glass beads and abalone shell added via hand cast
Bermuda Blue 6x6 tile
~12k gallon pool, deepest section is ~5ft in the center

BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

BarefootLime · Feb 26, 2025

jaye31987 · Feb 26, 2025

I believe I have a leak at my skimmer. The issue is that I don't see any active leaks, so I assume it's leaking through the screws between the liner and the wall.

So far, I've tried the following:

1st attempt: Installed a new butterfly gasket—still leaked.
2nd attempt: Added pool sealant between the gasket, screws, and skimmer—still leaked.
3rd attempt: Repeated the second attempt and used tape, as you can see in the "middle view," to ensure it wrapped around the edge of the skimmer pool wall—still leaking.

I'm considering two more attempts:

4th attempt: Add thick, waterproof membrane tape, wrapping the edge of the skimmer wall to the liner.
5th attempt: Apply a 1.5 x 1.5 ft liner patch and check for leaks before cutting a new hole. Something like this:

Amazon.com

Side note -
The middle view picture is how my pool currently looks. It doesn't drop below this level.
the skimmer itself looks fine. There is nothing wet exterior.

jaye31987 · Feb 26, 2025

jaye31987 · Feb 26, 2025

jaye31987 · Feb 26, 2025

Hudsonbard · Feb 26, 2025

Hudsonbard said:
I see from another thread that there are sacrificial anoded that can be attached to skimmers. Does that make sense to use?
In my city home I have a Veissmann indirect water tank that never requires an anode, and is literally guaranteed for life.

I also see, on further reading here, that the skimmer sacrificial anodes do nothing.

Raypak has once again sent us a list of dealers to come look at my pool. I'd be surprised if any will actually come.

wireform · Feb 26, 2025

If you have good water circulation 1 hour is more then enough to see the results of the MA additions.

Leener · Feb 26, 2025

True about the car

Went to Home Depot today and picked up 18 8x4” cement blocks for the pool legs.

Was going to get the 1” XPS foam but the few that were left were mostly damaged. Went with the 1/2”, hope it’s enough. The soil is sand so I don’t think cushion will be an issue. Then I’ll have a tarp or gorilla pad.

I will get the chemicals and kit you’ve mentioned and sign up for the pool math once I’m close to finishing, if the day ever comes.

Not as young as I used to be, so slow going. Had to take a prednisone pill for the inflammation in my hands. Realized the sod in the area I was fixing was low so worked on that.

Sometimes it’s one day of work asks one day to recuperate…we’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Thank you

sande005 · Feb 26, 2025

Liquid Cl may temporarily raise pH, but the effect doesn't last long. For all intents, it doesn't have any impact.
Your acid add at the very best would only drop pH by .3, so 8.2>7.9. Given the range of error of judging the colors, it did about what it should do. Add more acid if you want to drop it more. Another quart should do it. TA will slowly drop with acid adds, but both the impact of any one addition, as well as progress to a lower number, will take time. Give it a day or two before assuming it hasn't changed.

wireform · Feb 26, 2025

Your PH showed 8.2 because it doesn't register higher but you may of had very high PH so add till you see movement and then use poolmath for the rest. Be sure which strength MA you are using as it'll have a different effect at lowering.

sdrober1 · Feb 26, 2025

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Floc is never the solution. It will just cause other problems.

Flocculant - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You admit you are slacking on the M and that slows the process down or stalls it.

What filter do you have?

what test kit do you have?

You using PoolMath and logging your tests and chemical additions?

What is your FC and CYA now?

How often do you test and add chlorine?

I've got a 21" sand filter, and the TF-PRO test kit. I'm using the app to track everything. Testing and adjusting chlorine twice a day, until we took a week off for bad weather. FC was 0 this morning, added 7 gal of chlorine. CYA is 70.

Before the weather, I held FC at around 24 for almost a week, she wasn't eating much of it, I just didn't see much change.

JamesW · Feb 26, 2025

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The following are the LEDs:

.....PS (Pressure Switch)
.....HLS (High Limit Switch)
.....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
.....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
.....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
.....Service System
.....Thermistor
.....Heating
.....Pool On
...Spa On
...Service Heater.

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JamesW · Feb 26, 2025

There will be an error LED on the back of the circuit board or on the Fenwal.

ajw22 · Feb 26, 2025

Digital – Raypak

Raypak Pool & Spa, Residential and Commercial Hydronic Products -

www.raypak.com

RayPak Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

mm3621 · Feb 26, 2025

Newdude said:
Go into the upper left menu of PoolMath and select effects of adding.

View attachment 629579

You were losing 25+ ppm a week and he was adding 11. Maybe he added some pucks to the skimmer for slow release FC, but he still fell short.

Anywho. 5+ ppm FC at all times is your mission. Hitting 5 doesn't garauntee algae but it's a chance. The more you do it, the more likely you are gifted a swamp.

Perfect. 4ppm may last a couple days right now, and it might last 5 hours mid day in July. Adapt as necessary.

UPDATE: I added 1 gal of chlorine based on PoolMath calculations and I got FC to 6 ppm, perfectly in the 5-7ppm range recommended for CYA of 40ppm. Now, I also added some muriatic acid (1 qt) to lower the pH since it was reading 8.2. Somehow, it only went down to pH 8.0 and after adding another 1 qt of muriatic acid it basically stayed at 8.0 (basically at that red color that I can tell it is not 8.2 but it not 7.8 either, something in between). I also checked TA, it stayed at 80ppm. Question no. 1: Why is pH not going down? Is that because I added 1 gal of liquid chlorine which tends to raise pH? If so, question no. 2, should I just pour more muriatic acid until I get to pH between 7.6 and 7.8? Thanks for all your help!

kineticblonde · Feb 26, 2025

Came home from work to a guy installing a new heater. The guy said he has had to replace so many Jandys bc of issues and so our pool builder got this one. He said Jandy was also slow to respond to the issues/concerns.
Thoughts?

kineticblonde · Feb 26, 2025

ajw22 · Feb 26, 2025

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Flame Rectification Failure

After the gas valve opens, the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor) will switch to a sensing mode to monitor the flame.

When the HSI switches to flame sensing mode, it looks for a microamp current in the 1 to 10 microamp range (1.0 to 10 µA).

If the flame sensor does not read at least 1.0 microamps, the Fenwal controller will shut down the gas valve's power.

Does the heater briefly ignite, producing a puff of heat before shutting down? If so, you may have a flame-sensing problem. Heater Flame Sensing describes what may be happening and offers ways to fix it.

ajw22 · Feb 26, 2025

ParrishGuy said:
I just read something that JamesW posted to someone else about running a new ground from the Fenwal to somewhere else near the ignitor? Is that something I should try.

That deals with flame sensing problems. Read Heater Flame Sensing - Further Reading

How much corrosion is in the heater?

Show us pictures of the heater internals around the electrical box and igniter.

Option · Feb 26, 2025

ajw22 said:
Show us pictures of your CB panel.

Will do once I'm home tonight. Thanks again for your help!

Option · Feb 26, 2025

Option · Feb 26, 2025

wireform said:
unpowered until the GCFI is reset

Thanks for the clarification. Yeah, that would not be a long-term solution but I was hoping it might be better than the piggyback power the board is currently getting. It might be some days before I can get my electrician friend out to look at the panel so I was hoping to find something I can do myself in the meantime.

ParrishGuy · Feb 26, 2025

ajw22 said:
Did you test the thermal regulator by putting it in a pot of hot water and seeing if it opens at 120F?

How did you check the condition of the bypass valve?

I checked the bypass when I had the manifold off last year and the spring and plastic piece was fine. I didn't manually test the thermostat with hot water yet because I ran the system without it temporarily to see if that solved the issue and it still cycled off.

I just read something that JamesW posted to someone else about running a new ground from the Fenwal to somewhere else near the ignitor? Is that something I should try.

sande005 · Feb 26, 2025

While unfamiliar with the one pictured, tablets contain some to a lot of "paste" as a binder. That will eventually gum up the feeder. For me, that meant either a new feeder after a season or two or a stock of spare parts always on hand, depending on brand. Far easier in the cold weather time to just have a floater in the pool with a few tabs in it.
Interesting that the SWCG isn't installed in the maze yet. I wonder how many more 90's, backflows, and valves he was planning to use for that.....

wireform · Feb 26, 2025

Option said:
When you say "dead," do you mean unpowered until the GCFI is reset or do you mean the GCFI getting tripped will damage the panel?

unpowered until the GCFI is reset

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