New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

You lost 3.5 today.

You are demonstrating that you have variable demand. What we are saying is that you should dose above range, even up to 10, so that you are never get below the low end of the range WHEN YOU TEST.

You are close enough to 30 CYA that you can /should dose up to 10FC...then when you have a 3.5 demand day, you end up with 6.5...right at range.

9.7g will get you to 7. Add another 6g to get you to ~10.

You are likely getting close to 30 CYA. How much total dichlor / CYA have you added? Just about time to go to liquid. Add it up and report.

Pentair Intellicenter set up help

Connect the indoor unit directly to your home network router port switch.

Connect the outdoor unit using the provided CAT5 cable to the POE dongle and the Ethernet jack on the PCB.

You should see the LEDs flashing as the two units make a connection.

Then do the Internet Connection Test on the outdoor panel.

See page 85 in https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...als---user-docs/intellicenter-users-guide.pdf

Do not do "Connect to Wireless Network"

If using the Pentair High Power Wireless Link kit skip to the Internet Connection Test. It should show you are connected.

Then register the user using the OCP. Once you pass the Internet Connection Test then On Add New Account . They don't need to know your address. Put in your email, name, and password and press the check on the upper right. See if it asks for anything else. Give it the minimum they require.

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Then Login to Existing Account to connect your panel to the Pentair servers in the cloud.

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New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

Ok, so you lost 1ppm. Dose to 7, so when you test you are at 6.

Ignore the SLAM button. That is for when you have/get algae. Link-->SLAM Process
Tested again this evening and it's at 2.5 ppm (still on DiChlor). I didn't bother testing for CYA.

As per your recommendation, I added 10g Dichlor (recommendation was 9.7 in the app). I'll test again around the same time tomorrow.

New post on an old thread

+1. You may have found a mostly still relevant thread, but threads from 2007 are also 'older than 60 days'. :ROFLMAO: (Or anywhere in between).

And a great deal of it didn't age well. As a forum constantly shaped by member experiences, we'll even contradict ourselves. (I'm looking at YOU, Dolphin.) They were the gold standard, until they became more of a soiled brown.

There has to be a suggested cutoff and through experience, 2 months is likely into a new season of that year. Take today for example. I have a winter question, and in 2 months it's a spring question, 2 months after that it's a summer question.
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Brand New Max e Therm burning through igniters literally

I suspect that the 90 volt AC Flame Sense power is probably designed to be very weak.

If you were to connect the S1 to ground or neutral (Completing the circuit through the Hot Surface Ignitor), I suspect that the voltage would probably mostly drop out and not sustain any significant current.

Even under a 5 microamp load, the voltage drops down a lot.

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Riptide XP Pool Vacuum: !!WOW!!

I have the riptide also and love it. I have a terrible yard for a pool with a big tree that hangs right over the pool. There are also 3 other large trees in the front and side that lose a lot of leaves that fall on the roof of the house and end up in the backyard and pool

I finally came to my senses and cut down the tree that hangs over the pool but still have a fair number of leaves.

With my large number of leaves the Polaris could never keep up, so I got the riptide. As mentioned above it is a bit of a battle to get the bag off and on, but it does a great job vacuuming up everything. It is also a bit awkward to get in and out of the pool, but I still recommend it

New post on an old thread

Admittedly, there is a bit of a mismatch between the 60 days prompt and explanation on the thread, and the year restriction in forum rules. @Leebo


We ask that you not answer posts that haven't had any activity in more than 60 days [thread note]/a year [Forum Rules] (unless you are updating your own topic). Usually the issue has been resolved even if that is not reflected in the thread. If you have a question for the originator of the thread send it by pm instead. Finally, with threads that are that old, many times the original posters have not been around since they posted on the thread (why the note on unlikely to be unread/unseen).

Starting a new thread allows us to provide the most recent guidance and resources.

We also get a fair amount of comments on old threads that are actually hijacking the thread with their own question on the same topic. We ask members to not hijack by attaching your question onto someone's thread. Start your own even if the topic is directly related. Then answers intended for you will not be confused with answers intended for someone else. This happens often, and our Mods have to spend time to unwind the intertwining... :laughblue:

We have found, having these rules, reduces the amount of administration our volunteer team needs to expend. We are a small team of unpaid volunteers. ;)
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New post on an old thread

Basic question that probably is applicable to several forums, but exactly why is posting / replying to a thread older than 60 days “likely to be unread / unseen”? In a car forum I belong to, it’s quite common for ppl to post/reply to threads older than 60 days, which will populate to the top of a sub-category’s as a new post (and thus get seen/read). This often introduces members to a topic and information that - albeit was raised a couple months back, ends up generating renewed interest in the topic and with that, , new posts containing useful and often updated information.

So am I correct in assuming TFP’s forum is set up in a manner that essentially makes posts / replies to older threads “unlikely to be seen or read” because it is more than 60 days old?

Clogged Vacuum Line / Plumbing Question

Maybe that is why it is there...
Can you confirm that's what this pipe is used for? The fitting on the top screws in but it's just a hole with a black rubber piece inside. I was able to fit a specific rubber fitting on my air compressor to make it work. Just curious what the intended use is for. Sometimes when the pump turns off I hear a brief sound of air for a few seconds.

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Pentair Intellicenter set up help

1. Connect the indoor unit directly to your home network router port switch.

2. Connect the outdoor unit using the provided CAT5 cable to the POE dongle and the Ethernet jack on the PCB.

You should see the LEDs flashing as the two units make a connection.

3. Then do the Internet Connection Test on the outdoor panel.

See page 85 in https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...als---user-docs/intellicenter-users-guide.pdf

Do not do "Connect to Wireless Network"

If using the Pentair High Power Wireless Link kit skip to the Internet Connection Test. It should show you are connected.

4. Then register the user using the OCP. Once you pass the Internet Connection Test then On Add New Account . They don't need to know your address. Put in your email, name, and password and press the check on the upper right. See if it asks for anything else. Give it the minimum they require.

1701989645212-png.543681


5. Then Login to Existing Account to connect your panel to the Pentair servers in the cloud.

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6. Download the Pentair HOME App to your phone and bookmark IntelliCenter2.com on your PC

7. Login using the name and password you setup with Pentair

8. You should be able to connect to your IntelliCenter Panel.
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Hello from Toronto

My wife and I are looking to upsize our home. On her wish list is an inground pool. Not knowing anything about swimming pools I started to google basic questions about pool maintenance and almost every resource on Reddit pointed me to TFP. I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge being shared here. I am looking forward to sharing more details on the pool we end up with and hopefully get some help from the members.

Thank you all in advance.

Pentair Screenlogic and Intelliflo pump keep losing connection to Easy Touch panel

Hello,

I have had my pool a few years. Earlier in the week, my pump would not turn on when using Screenlogic or my Easy Touch panel. I have reset everything many times and verified the pump will turn on in manual mode. My panel buttons will turn on everything but the Intelliflo pump. Sometimes it briefly goes back to normal but more often than not this week, both the Screenlogic/Intelliflo lose connection at the same time. I am wondering if there is an issue with the control panel in my Easy Touch. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Need guidance in regards to the Inteliflo3 VST 1.5 HP versus the Inteliflo3 VST 3.0 HP

S,

Because turnovers don't matter, and your pipes being 1.5" don't matter either...

This is a VS pump and the goal is to run as slow as you can, not as fast as you can..

The larger the pump the more water you can move at a lower RPM..

As an example... I run my 3 HP IntelliFlo 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm, for less than $20 bucks a month.. And my pump is about 12 years old and in is not nearly as energy efficient as a newer IntelliFlo3

I never, ever recommend a smaller (1.5 HP) VS pump.... I too recommend the larger (3 HP) VS IntelliFlo3 And.. I don't get paid to sell you anything.. :mrgreen:

The price is almost the same anyway..



Edit.. I forgot to add that at 1200 rpm, you have to touch the pump to make sure it is still running.. It is that quiet!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.
Hey thanks for providing those links. Where I was looking, I was seeing a price difference of around $550 but this is much better. I agree with you about the prices being so close it wouldn’t make sense to get the smaller one.

Mastertemp 400 cuts off

The DPDT relay has Normally closed contacts from S1 and S2-FS (Red Dots) to the Flame Sense Voltage Terminals (Blue Dots).

S2-FS should have 90 volts to ground all the time (except when the ignitor is energized) to detect a Flame when no call for heat.

The Top Blue Dot is connected to S1, but the top blue dot is a dead terminal.

The bottom Blue Dot has 90 volts AC connected to S2-FS, which sends voltage to the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor).

The voltage will go to S1 through the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor)(Orange Line), but there will be no current because the top blue dot is not connected to a ground or neutral.

So, if you measure from S1 to Ground or S2 to ground, you should get 90 volts AC.

If you measure from S1 to S2, you should get 0 volts.

During the 20 second ignitor heatup, S1 connects to 120 volt line power and S2 connects to Line Neutral and the HSI should use 3.9 amps (450 watts).

Then the relay switches back to Flame Sense mode.

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