With an IC40 as the signature shows something is off. There's lots of FC power.

Power from Aux 1 and make it "Cleaner" by moving DIP Switch to ON.

That way, no power when water going to the Spa.

6.1 DIP Switch Functions.

S1 DIP #1 ON- AUX 1 Controls Pool Cleaner.

If you installed a booster pump for a pool cleaner, the relay coil for the booster pump must be plugged into the AUX 1 relay socket. If a non-booster pump
cleaner is installed, plug the JVA into the cleaner JVA socket.

Turn ON DIP Switch #1.

• Main filter pump turns on whenever cleaner turns on.

• Cleaner will not turn on until filter pump has been on for three (3) minutes (to ensure priming of system).

• Cleaner turns off when water circulation is to spa.

• Cleaner turns off when spa spillover feature is activated.

• Cleaner turns off for three (3) minutes when solar is activated (to ensure air is purged from the system).

• AquaLink RS control panel display reads “CLEANER” rather than “AUX 1”

You can use a piece of 4x4 lumber and build off that after the following. Assuming you have 2" pvc you'd core a 2.375" in hole in it. After that you'd cut through the center of the hole so in the end you have the two halves which would be slightly off round due to the loss of the cut. Then you would screw the two halves together around the pipe and it rather snug. From there you can make whatever you need as your first plan was to do.

@bdavis466 is in the area but haven't seen him around in a few months.

Here is a thread we put together to show off different liner colors. I hope this helps a bit.

@Sealizard that is a great idea! Thanks!

PGQ24 said:

The debris bags is tough to put on and take off. Removing the bag is very difficult especially in cooler or cold weather. They have a tool to help, but a blunt flathead screw driver could help.

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I use the riptide year round. Yes, in winter the bags are a bit tough and get used only on heated pools so I hang the rubber rim in the heated pool water for a minute which then makes it easy. I bought the bag removal tool, it's made very well with the intention of not harming the vac head which your "blunt flathead screwdriver" definitely gouges it up.
I spent the $20 + shipping knowing in a matter of time I'm way ahead rather then to break my fingers.

I'm not saying to buy it for the residence, I was just saying it is a good well designed apparatus that cuts my time in half if not less from the way I used to do things. I used to bring the 42' hose, pole, vac head, leaf canister to catch the heavy stuff. I didn't want junk going through the pipe system all the way to the filter and the unforseen pool diver toy that blends in very well or is in the pile of debris at the pool bottom after a good wind storm.
I also try not vacuuming through the pool filter to to load it up more then necessary.

Check the thermal regulator and that it opened at 120F.

Check the internal bypass in the manifold.


The HLS is often caused by insufficient water flow through the heat exchanger. This can be due to several things:

• Thermal regulator not opening.
• External bypass open.
• Internal bypass broken.
• Pump too small or on too low rpm.
• Clogged filter.
• Scale in heat exchanger.

Problem solved! Thanks all for helping me stay determined to find a solution. As I was throwing away the garbage tonight, I noticed I had 3 smaller saddles the kit came with. I took one more look at my equipment pad and found a lonely pipe that just happened to be the same size for the saddles. This is for a RETURN jet on a sun shelf which is rarely used, so there's never any pressure on that line.

Drilled a new hole, connected it to the line, and the water was flowing very generously so I closed the ball valve almost all the way. I tested it with the bubbler running at many different RPMs with dye in the line and it's flowing perfectly.

Red: supply line for the flow cell
Purple: old location of return line from the flow cell
Blue: new return line for the flow cell, connected as far possible down the line.


Just have to go to Home Depot tomorrow to get a 1/2" cap to screw on the old saddle so I can remove the ball valve there that's no longer needed.

Now if only I could find a flow switch that could thread into that old saddle. That'll be my next project.

heykerrdog said:

I notice the SWG is set at 80% and is likely a July 2018 birthday, so 6.5 years old and I have not inspected it yet.

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What is your pump daily runtime?

heykerrdog said:

Can I add some bleach if I have a SWG ?

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Yes and it's preferred anytime the FC is lower. The cell will take up to a day to replenish today's lost FC, bleach takes 5 mins of mixing. Waiting for the cell to raise the FC significantly may gift you a swamp.

heykerrdog said:

I notice the SWG is set at 80% and is likely a July 2018 birthday, so 6.5 years old and I have not inspected it yet.

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What's the context ?

Is the water still clear ? Loosing too much FC / unable to produce enough daily ?


The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is always the first step. Prove we have time to fiddle with anything else, and we won't be worried about a swamp in the mean time.

mwhitney said:

Thanks. So if I can keep it at 6ppm FC (middle of target range), I'm golden?

I'm still not clear on what slam level is. In the app, if I set Current Free Chlorine to 6, Current CYA to 30 (guessing this is where I'll get to) and the 'Target Level' for FC to 6, and hit the 'slam' radio button, it changes the value to 12 with a recommendation of adding 117 mL of liquid chlorine. Are you suggesting to follow this protocol if I'm gone for a few days, or day, leaving for a week (we have a Mexico trip coming up for one week).

Yes - looking forward to learning what bather load losses look like and just daily losses so this all becomes more intuitive. Logs and more logs. I have a running notepad going.

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While the app gives guidance based on the levels tfp recommends you need to understand why & not just blindly follow the app. Its primary function is a calculator.
Print this chart and keep it in your kit
FC/CYA Levels

SLAM level is shock level for your cya. SLAM = Shock Level And Maintain which is a process to eradicate nasties/algae and prove they are gone vs simply raising fc to shock level once
For your tub and bathers fc is ok anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.
This means targeting one specific ppm is really not necessary so long as you are staying in the range. Most who manually dose may need to raise fc up to 8 or 10ppm after a soak to deal with the current bather waste AND ensure they don’t fall below minimum before the next dose/use. You have to do what your tub needs - thats the only blanket recommendation that we can give you. Every tub is different. I find that i can make it through a 1 person 30 minute soak without falling too close to minimum if I start out around 6ppm. Your mark may be different as there are many variables involved.
My tub can get by for 6 days without falling below minimum if i raise fc to slam level immediately before leaving and turn the temp down.