Newdude said:

Click the upper left hamburger in poolmath. Sign out, close, open, sign in with TFP creds.

Then click settings cog in upper right, and scroll down to enable sharing to tfp profile.

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Done! Thank you for your help.

Oatey cleaner (in the US, at least) is pretty much the same as Oatey primer, just without the purple dye. The smell should be a clue (acetone).

JamesW said:

SMX306000024

View attachment 630519

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Thank you for all the information. This looks exactly like the sensor I have down to the blue and black wire.

The only thing you posted that I am unsure of now is the reply that said “check the resistance of the sensor….” Not sure how to do that.

HouseofHiggis said:

. I wonder if I can change that

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Click the upper left hamburger in poolmath. Sign out, close, open, sign in with TFP creds.

Then click settings cog in upper right, and scroll down to enable sharing to tfp profile.

Jaimslaw said:

and sometimes known only to few individuals having a similar experience -

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It takes very little effort to tag/quote those few individuals in your new thread discussing your issue. Even better, link the 3(?) threads you found that were related to your problem for context, along with tagging those members.

Again, collateral damage for the good of the whole. There is/was so much hijacking and unnecessary old post reviving that the rules were put into place, and even modified along the way.

As the saying goes, for every rule, there are exceptions to the rule. You can come up with exceptions all day and you wont necessarily be wrong, but that doesn't make it better overall.

sande005 said:

And a bit of maintenance for you too -

1. Consider paying the $8 per year subscription to the Pool Math app. You can save your entries as a series of logs, and view your history of testing and what was added when. Helps a lot in helping to remember how good/bad things are progressing.

2. Use the same username and password for PoolMath as you use for posting on this site. In the setup section, you can then allow sharing of all your readings/history here. We can easily see it all, and you don't have to fuss with screen shots or retyping! Click on my user name for this post, and then the "Pool Math Logs" button for an example - although being the depths of winter all my entries are pretty old.

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Thank you for your response. I did do the paid version. But I’m not 100% sure if my username is the same because I think I logged in there with Facebook. I wonder if I can change that? I will look further when I am on a real computer.

And a bit of maintenance for you too -

1. Consider paying the $8 per year subscription to the Pool Math app. You can save your entries as a series of logs, and view your history of testing and what was added when. Helps a lot in helping to remember how good/bad things are progressing.

2. Use the same username and password for PoolMath as you use for posting on this site. In the setup section, you can then allow sharing of all your readings/history here. We can easily see it all, and you don't have to fuss with screen shots or retyping! Click on my user name for this post, and then the "Pool Math Logs" button for an example - although being the depths of winter all my entries are pretty old.

Sounds like ScreenLogic problems to me.

Do things work correctly when you used the outdoor panel?

HouseofHiggis said:

And yes, the pump has been running since Wednesday 24 seven.

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We hadn't heard from you in a few days (understandably). You might have ran out there with the fancy new kit when the pool had been off for days and had skewed test results.

SLAM on.

Newdude said:

Yes. Slam is 12 FC for 30 CYA (40%). Replenish the FC whenever it dips. As the process plays out, it holds longer per dose. Sounds like it is probably holding pretty well already.

Brush and vac at least once a day.

Scrub every hidden area like light niches, inside ladder rails or all up in the skimmer.

We'll worry about TA and PH after.

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Good morning. Thank you for your response. I thought that should be the plan of action, but I wanted to make sure. I will get my free chlorine up to 12 and report back.

I have been brushing and vacuuming every single day

wireform said:

I wouldn't raise the PH on the pool store findings. We need all testing to be your own. Mix means the pump was running for a time period before the water sample was drawn.

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Good morning. Thank you for your response. All of the results that I’ve hosted last night are from my testing. Minus the calcium hardness which I later deleted. And yes, the pump has been running since Wednesday 24 seven.

Dirk said:

and perhaps this year's batch just happened to be better than other vintages.

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When filled the new pool, I took 4 small bags from the same new pallet at HD and 2 poofed and 2 turned into bricks. I think it has to do with any moisture getting in the bag, possibly through a small hole you can't see.

And water temp makes a huge difference too. Maybe it's just enough warmer this year that you're on the easy mush side of it

Thank you for pointing out another reason I should run 24/7. Freezing wasn't even on my radar, but what if ?

Also if the water is barely warm enough for the SWG to work, the UV demand is minimal. You don't jump to 4ppm daily loss because the SWG kicked on. You run a month at 8%, then some weeks at 20% before spring kicks in.

So the higher CYA isn't needed yet at that point and a 20 or 30 is fine to start.

Griswald said:

Seems like a waste of the swg run time.

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Liquid chlorine costs more FC to FC. My replacement cell will produce over 3x worth of bleach.

HouseofHiggis said:

do I keep these levels until I get the rest of the dead algae vacuumed?

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Yes. Slam is 12 FC for 30 CYA (40%). Replenish the FC whenever it dips. As the process plays out, it holds longer per dose. Sounds like it is probably holding pretty well already.

Brush and vac at least once a day.

Scrub every hidden area like light niches, inside ladder rails or all up in the skimmer.

We'll worry about TA and PH after.

With the amount of wrinkles that are on the liner in this area, will a patch even work?

Personally if we're talking buried I'd do it over and know it's done. On exposed work I'd let it be but make sure to pressure all and everything before backfilling the pipe.

Sand remains sand and keeps doing the same job unless it becomes compromised due to the plethora of additives sitting on pool store shelves being sold.

The lower the micron the finer the mesh so in reality it'll retain more in the bag but it has a flip side which is that it'll clog that much faster and stop pulling in the fines due to the fact that the mesh cloggs faster. I use mainly the 100 micron but when I look at a pool and there calcium debris on the pool floor I can only get half the pool vacuumed before I need to empty only because the bag collapses from being clogged up. I now use the 200 micron bag and can usually get through the complete pool. When there's more debris like after a storm it is the 400 micron bag that get used as anything smaller becomes a chore. If you know it's limitations the rest is cake.

You can save yourself all that money by taking the above advice which was to plug the main drain, fill the cavity let's say with sand so in the future it can be reversed easily, get it nice and level and then put 2 patches having the second one be larger and encapsulate the first. If there's will there might be a way.

I have countless oaks, pines, and bushes around my pool. It a freaking park like. Summer day are fine. I can use the toy like pool plaster to suck up some minor debris and leaves and looking forward to using the Riptide once a week or as needed. But for Fall / Winter seasons, there are leaves up the wazoo. Keep in mine that these trees lose ALL their leaves (except for the Pines but they still shed like crazy) and are about ~30 feet from the pool edge. Because they are tall, and the winds can be strong, it is difficult prevent the leaves from getting to the pool. Believe me, I fill up trashcans of leaves week after week during Fall/Winter season.

To vacuum this pool with the skimlite 6317 (17ft pool), I have to go to every side of the pool to reach almost every area of the pool. I'm sorry, but that 11" triangle vacuum with no ability to steering is a mistake like the robot. The Dolphin s400 could barely climb the 8ft to 4ft depth, and it covers about only 1/2 or maybe 3/4 of the pool (if lucky) during a cycle of 2.5 hours. The 50-60 ft cord could barely reach the other side of the pool floor (see pics). And pine needles almost always tangle up the Dolphin motor fan. It's bad engineering on their part.

Wireform is right. I don't want the debris in my filters either. I'm looking to get the 60 micron bags and wish they make something with even less microns for more filtration.

I think the triangle vacuum head works well with a small pool and light debris. As a matter of fact, I wish someone would make a smaller lighter version of the riptide. Battery on the deck, brushless motor and tangle free cord in the water with an speed variable detachable suction motor, and a large capacity debris and various bag selections that will go down to 10 microns, and for a reasonable price, it would get a lot attention.

Just one more question. Those searching a subject covered only in older threads often find threads with posts from a myriad of members who share their experience, expertise, admonitions, etc (and other than mods or frequent active members). Some of these posts cover matters not widely known …and sometimes known only to few individuals having a similar experience - or the know how - to provide their help. In not drafting a reply to such posts - but drafting a new post on the subject - doesn’t that keep out of the loop, individuals who would otherwise be notified and thereby inclined to further contribute their expertise? An example might be one looking into an acid injection system and finding the most recent post to be 2 years old, where in that prior period, there was a wealth of information (several threads/posts) (I was one of those contributors). If someone today were to post a how-to question in that area, I probably wouldn’t know about it..,but if I were notified of the post, I’d be all over it with whatever help I could lend or add. Many others would also be so inclined, IMO (why would that desire to help diminish over time?). Mods do a great job in reviewing new posts and rendering timely responses, and that’s to be lauded. But it’s also likely opportunities for contribution from others is reduced, or the extent of assistance diminished.

It may be that so many that failed to respect the time limitations are those who are use to interacting on other forums without time restrictions. And honestly, as don’t believe those forums suffer to any meaningful degree as a result.

Again, I have no qualms with the forum rules and look forward to spending more time here lending whatever help I can. . . limited as that may be compared to the many pros here who have forgotten more about pool stuff than I’ll ever know.

agh, that stinks! Removing the buttons without damaging the board can be a pain... I can see that the top left pad for the menu button got ripped off before the through-hole. If you solder a bridge from the button to the hole, does that fix it?


usually before removing a button I'll use a pair of tweezers to temporarily jumper the top 2 pins to the bottom 2 pins - just to make sure that works. If that doesn't work, then the problem is likely a corroded trace or damage to the microcontroller (the buttons are not buffered on this board - they go straight to the microcontroller).


when I remove these I slice off these 4 little plastic tabs on top of the button...


Then I remove the silver top-plate and black plunger and flip the board to dump out the little flexible disc inside... you end up with this:


finally I put a little leaded solder on each remaining leg, then apply a bit of hot air on the center of the button and it comes right off without damaging the board. If you don't have hot-air you could solder a bit of scrap wire inside the button to bridge the two sides, add more solder to heat through to the legs, and take it off.

when resoldering these buttons you've got to work fast with low heat - they're not meant to be hand soldered but they tolerate it fine if you don't let it get too hot.