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Matching waterline tile and pool plaster

Hi all, we’re redoing our pool and have selected these teal half moon tiles below, and are now choosing a pool plaster color.

I love DB Midnight Blue because we live in a wooded area and I wanted more a dark lake vibe, as an aqua pool seemed too tropical. The problem is I’m worried the green undertones of the teal won’t sit well next to the midnight blue. For those with more experience, does that matter? Should we switch to a lighter plaster? The original owners had a basic ivory but I really do love that dark blue lagoon color.

Any thoughts welcome on if we’re overthinking it. Thanks in advance! This forum is a godsend.

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Puzzling water flow when pump is off

Hello all,

Apologies in advance for the long post.

I'm puzzled by the water flow in my pool's plumbing. When the main pump is running, all appears well, with no leaks visible anywhere near the exposed plumbing around the filter, pump, etc. I seldom need to add water except when it gets really hot, dry, or windy.

When the main pump is off, I hear gurgling sounds that suggest water is flowing out of the filter, back through the skimmer basket, and out to the pool, but I can't detect where in the pool any water is entering. Moreover, air is entering the water lines during this process. After sitting overnight, the skimmer basket has water up to the level of the input from the pool; i.e., it drains until it can't drain any more, with air filling the remainder of the basket. The gurgling sounds have stopped; no more water is running out of the filter. When the pump comes back on, it needs to re-prime itself, and every couple days or so, I have to bleed air out of the filter.

If I open the bleed valve on the top of the filter while the pump is off, air is sucked into the top of the filter as the water drains from it.

I'm trying to figure out where the air is entering the system and where the water from the filter is going when the pump is off, so I can "fix" it. Try as I might, I'm not getting it figured out, so I thought I'd stop by here to see if any of the experts can "solve" the puzzle for me.

I've attached a picture, below, of my exposed plumbing for reference.

Pool plumbing.jpg

Numbers in the picture correspond to water flows as follows:

1. Filter to heater
2. Filter from pump
3. Heater to pool and spa
4. To spa
5. To pool, fountain, vacuum
6. To fountain (note there is a check valve in this line)
7. Spa bubbler/blower (no water)
8. To fountain, after check valve (continuation of 6)
9. To pool, vacuum pump
10. To vacuum pump
11. To vacuum
12. Spa drain, pool skimmer basket, main drain to pump skimmer basket
13. From spa drain
14. From pool main drain
15. From pool skimmer basket

I've tried opening and closing various combinations of the Jandy valves when the pump is off and I get, to me, very confusing results. Examples follow.

If I close the valve at 12, presumably I cut off all flow back to the pool from the pump, but when I do, flow continues out of the filter!

If I close that same Jandy valve to 14 and 15, then flow stops. If I move that valve back to 12 and close the Jandy valve at 15 (theoretically prohibiting flow to both the pool skimmer basket an main drain, flow continues!

I've tried a few more combinations, but I'll stop here to seek any input or advice you folks might have. I'm willing to call in our pool service, but I really want to try to figure out what's going on, if I can, before I do.

Thanks for any insight.

HOA Pool

Around here it costs $175 an hour to have any basic work truck show up to your house.

If they're charging you only 30 mins per day because they have closeby jobs on their route, that is your $2650 for 'supplies and daily checks'. Then the supplies are double charged again, which is suspicious like its a surcharge in lieu of raising rates. Both their employee costs and supply costs have likely spiked the last few years.

5 gallons of bleach a day would get you 15ppm and cost $924 out the door at Walmart monthly. So right off the bat we are at $3600 but I don't see exorbitant calcium / CYA needs to go much further. Unless they're playing the MA / baking soda roller coaster either for profit or from ignorance.

Or you're being charged the full hour with a daily chemical allowance included and it's about right for my locale.

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First start up New construction pool

The lower the better.

I want to get an idea how dirty it may be.
Just checked it and the speed is 1700 rpm.
0 psi and the pump basket had lots of air bubbles in it and not full of water. Lots of flow out of the returns in the pool and good suction at the skimmer. Shut it down and checked the pump strainer and it was clean.
Fired it back up and the pressure went to 11 psi in prime mode and dropped to 0 again when the pump dropped to 1700 rpm.
No air bubbles in the pump strainer and completely full of water and I bled the air out of the filter.

Saltwater Generator and Jandy VS FLOPRO

I'm sure he did. If the water is moving, it's being filtered. But the PBs never have to pay your electric bill for you, so they just pick an arbitrarily high # of turnovers for you to achieve. If the # is high enough, it doesn't matter how much environmental debris blew in the pool, they were right. But that's only a week or three in the spring. Then you go most the summer needing very little filtration before it increases in the fall again.

Liner or base failure

I too suspect ground heave.
The crease at the bottom of the wall and busted bottom track tells the tale. Its just something that happens sometimes. Mother nature.
The only thing you can do to try to prevent it is keep water away from the pool by diverting run off & ground water with drainage.
Even If you can find the bottom track you don’t really want to put the creased wall back. It will be weak in that spot.
You will need to disassemble the entire pool to replace the bottom track. Buying and shipping a new wall, track & liner will likely cost the same as a whole new pool package.
After all the water is out and you remove the liner you can assess the damage again and maybe add a repair panel if it’s just that one bent area but I would strongly consider & prepare for replacement.
Very solid advice thanks you. Patiently waiting for the ice to melt so I can fully assess the damage. Not looking forward to replacing the pool if that’s what it comes to.
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Go with Pentair SWG or Circupool RJ Series?

I have a 15,000-18,000 gallon pool and live in the Phoenix metro area.

My local pool shop recommends a Pentair system, since thats what they service. They have a special where they'll be selling pentair systems for a discount for the equipment and providing $100 install.
I don't feel confident to install a system on my own, particularly the electrical work.


I had a guy from the shop stop by my house, and he recommended the "40" sized Pentair SWG. Not sure if he means the IC40?

He said that they're willing to install a salt system I provide, so will install the circupool system... but will charge $450 for the installation

He also mentioned that I might need to install a timer? I was under the impression my pool pump already has a built in timer...Will a separate timer be necessary?

Also, what reasons are there to go with circupool vs pentair?
All the equipment I have already, is pentair. Pentair variable speed pump and filter.

Special Buy of the day AIPER SG PRO $350

Wait. There’s no need to rush.

Also, I highly recommend that you make sure your pool has an independent suction port like how it would be designed if you used a suction side vacuum. It can be added now to the design and it shouldn’t cost all that much extra (it’s just some extra PVC pipes and a valve) . Every pool, EVERY POOL, should have the ability to run a manual vacuum head without having to plug one into the skimmer. Robots and cleaners are great but they break and manual vacuuming is sometimes quicker and easier than rolling out the robot. It’s certainly your call, but I have always appreciated being able to manually clean my pool even when using robots or suction cleaners.

/rant-off
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Inspect Salt Cell

That message will come on every 30 days as a prompt to check the cell plates. You can remove the cell and physically inspect it. If you have some calcium scaling on it then try removing it with a wood or plastic tool. While Hayward says to use diluted acid to clean it that will remove some of the materials from the plates and shorten the cell life. If you must try something to dissolve it then a 10-1 vinegar solution would be better. If the plates are clean then just press and hold the selection button which will reset the warning for the next 30 days (maybe it's measured in hours of operations, I don't remember.)
what kind of a soak time with the vinegar? I do not want to use acid. my buddy does that with his new unit and I dont have his cash reserves ;)

New to me pool - Progress pics

*after the rain.

I manipulate the weather with my pool water level. If i want a big storm to fizzle out before it gets to me, I lower before and *poof*, I have to add water. If I want us to get a ton of rain because the grass needs it, I leave the pool full and *poof* i need to drain 6 inches. #lifehack. #Murphysucks.

My PB gave me a 3 way between the pump and cartridge filter for draining on my first pool before I knew anything about anything. I didn't use it often but when I did it really really came in handy. It's also great for vac to waste after big storms (kill 2 birds lowering the pool and getting rid of the crud) or heavy cleanup in the spring after slacking or being closed for the winter.

But yeah. It was high on the priority list for pool #2 after moving.
Do you think I need something like a Jandy 3 way valve for that, or can I just use a T, with a valve on the drain side only?

Filter