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Newdude
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Advice on salt cell replacement

HermanTX
Skiddy said:
Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.
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The pictures came through on your previous post.
Can you post a full set of test results?

As your CYA increases be sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels. With a SWCG, you can target a CYA of 60-80.
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Advice on salt cell replacement

Skiddy
Thanks for the advice and I am aware that keeping it at a perfect 4ppm is impossible on a day to day basis. I should have said 3-5 is the range I will be shooting for. There are several factors I have used over the last 5 years with my old unit including runtime, flow rate, chlorine production% and of course the big one here in south Florida is environmental effects.
I have been testing my water every week since I had the pool installed 5 years ago. The ichlor did well for 4.5 years and was easy to regulate that same ppm range. I hope this unit gives me as long if not longer but glad it was an easy install. I was struggling with the images due to size. I may just make a seperate post with more install images since this is a new system to help get more info out there.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

PoolStored
Pas_pool said:
So it sounds like it’s either do the work now and have a little less later or continuous work throughout the season. I would prefer to do a little bit more work now, but I’m not using the pool and get it good then just maintain.
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mas985 said:
One other factor to consider is that if you have high TA/PH fill water and rely on that fill water fairly often, there will be a tendency for the pool water PH & TA to rise anyway. This is why I don't bother with manual dosing anymore and went with an automatic acid dosing system.
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PAS. You got it. and @ajw22 is right. I went through the same thing. I had to have my TA down, so I built an aeration rig, that now sits dormant as I've learned.

Create another pool in pool math called Fill Water. Test the pH, TA, CH of your fill water and save it as a record in Fill Water.

Post those results here (we can only see your default pool)
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Circupool Core Control 55 Initial Thoughts

Newdude
ol_whistle_britches said:
didn’t pay anywhere near that much.
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Every year they spike as the season gets going. I was thisclose to picking up my next SWG at $500 off with the pre season sale. I don't know how many years it has left on it but I am 1000% sure they won't be $1300 at that time, not even on sale.

DSP, naturally, has to jack theirs to $3k so it can still be on sale. :roll:
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How much equipment failure is "normal"?

S
My score, which will also jinx me:

Pump itself - 37 years, still going fine.
Pump motor (upgrade) - 15-18(?) years, still going fine.
Heater, finally dead. Old was 25+ years. We'll see on the new when it arrives.
Filter, old stainless sand - 34 years. New cartridge, 3 yrs so far.
Vinyl liner - averages about 12+ yrs.
Skimmers - 37 years, but one has been patched, and anticipate failure someday.
Plumbing ball valves - 36 years. Replaced all 6 last year with real diverters, one replaced again a couple of days ago, due to crack.
Diving board - 37 years, but really should have been done a few years ago. The dogs hardly ever use it. To be replaced this year.
SWCG - 3 years so far.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Newdude
Pas_pool said:
I would prefer to do a little bit more work now, but I’m not using the pool and get it good then just maintain.
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There is no wrong way to skin this cat. For some with crazy high TA (like 200+) they need to force it or it will take all season if even then. Or for those with high TA fill water and lots of evaporation, they'll want to get ahead of it. But vinyl in the northeast is pretty much hands off for most of us so you dont have the pressing concerns to lower the TA. Walk or run to the finish line, its up to you.
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Helpppppp

E
Opening pool today never had this happen before…….pulled all the plugs (skimmer and returns) primed pump with water in pump basket but getting bubbles out of closest returns and nothing out of farther returns. So air in system ……I’m having day time nightmares thinking a pipe is broken underground .

I closed last year as always do….. blew out returns and fill with anti freeze.

Any ideas what this could be? Pump sounds strong, no water leaks
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Next Steps after SLAM Completion

marybianchi
Good morning guys,
This is our second season after moving here last summer and just wanna make sure we have the next steps straightened out in order to complete the opening of our pool.
Quick background: when we moved in last June, the pool was already open and you fine folks were very helpful in giving us the tools to maintain the pool for the rest of the summer and it was a very successful seasons so big shout out to you all for that!
Prior owner did not ever have a cover so we figured we would follow in his footsteps just to see how that worked out and we ended up with a very swampy mess. You can see the pictures attached.

We started the SLAM 2 weeks ago and have maintained FC between 10-16 for the duration of the SLAM.
Ph was 7.3 at beginning of SLAM
CYA = 30

I know we can’t test the levels during the SLAM, but wanted to know what the next steps are once we pass the OCLT, which we will do tonight.


Fiberglass Pool
21,000 gallon SWP
Pentair InteliFlo pump
Pool Pilot SWG

Many thanks in advance!
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marybianchi
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marybianchi
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How much equipment failure is "normal"?

T
Jandy, while the #3 equipment builder, is number 3 for a reason. It's been surmised that most of the pool builders that install Jandy is because of the higher profit margin earned from it. Pentair is #1 for a reason. I'm speaking of preference and nothing else. Being just the filter, you can put whatever filter you want on it when it comes time to spend your own money.
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What did you do to your pool today?

Newdude
It should be a 1.5 inch NPT plug widely available at the box stores. Who cares what it looks like ? You could always swap it out when the matching one comes, and keep the emergency plug. For those of us that winterize the return plug should fit.

I would have called the local pool stores because they'd probably have them and in this instance I wouldn't care it cost $8 more if the pool was back up and running yesterday with the actual part.
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Skiddy
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Skiddy
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Cloudy Water

HermanTX
FiguringItOut said:
When first vacuuming out algae that was green and visible, the filter would need to be cleaned/changed after every vacuum due to pressure. This current filter cartridge was placed after the pool turned cloudy white and began on 15psi. We are now 3-4 days with constant running and it is at 16-17psi.
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Can you post a full set of test results and inform us what test kit you are using?
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Skiddy
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