Todays excitement…



A bulkkhead fitting started leaking. The pool was run for barely 4 months last season and put to bed. I opened it Monday. Deadline for swimmers in the water is the 15th, plus I’m stacked with 2 a day openings this week and service on about 10 accounts already opened. It’s gonna be a nailbiter to get this pool right before opening. I think little sleep is in my future….

Just saw on another post that single speed pump is wired to a relay, but VST is not. VST needs constant power, so I don't know where the red and black 240v power wires from the pump should be connected to. So, where?

TinFoilHat said:

I think I would forward pics of it all including the inspection sticker and ask the code folks why they think this was passed. I'd share the contractor name with them too.

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My assumption is that when inspection took place, it was wired for 120v. It would have passed in that configuration. Then after final when the contractor realized the pump wasn’t working, this mess happened to get the pump to work. As for the lack of GFCI breakers, I can’t explain that one. Inspector was asleep? At this point “powder is being kept dry” for the owner as I’m documenting and correcting. It’s their decision to act legally or otherwise against any and all responsible parties if you catch my drift .

wef924 said:

Hi,
I am thinking about replace the pool light bulb with LED since it's not working. Can anyone please help me identify which brand or model it is? And is the Amazon pool light work as expected?
Ex:https://a.co/d/dfrs6M5
This is extra bright ~ 7000 lumens with 65W and don't know if this is recommended.

View attachment 644806

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Pentair Amerilite, most common light in pools.
Those bulbs are incredibly bright and the light they emit is very white.
Be sure that you have a GFCI in the light circuit and that it isn't tripped. If it is tripped, reset it. If it continues to trip you probably need a complete new light.

45 minutes is plenty for low pressure... up to 3" pipes.


@ajw22 who knows easytouch?

saxon11 said:

Now says rollout SW open

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That means that either flame got out of the combustion chamber into the front of the heater. Its usually not actually a switch, but a fuse that pops and needs to be replaced if that happens.
Open the door, look on the lower left of the cabinet. Attached to the wall is one of these:

You can test it with a meter. Remove the wires and check for continuity across the terminals. If you have continuity, make sure the wires to the part were not damaged, or disconnected at the board when the heater was reassembled when a repair was made. If all is good, it sounds like your board is going bad.

On a rare occasion, only once, I have seen an actual switch in place of that thermal fuse. It will look something like this and just needs the button pushed in to reset:

You need to find out why flame is getting out of the chamber. If the heater wasn't running when this code popped up, check the wiring. If good it sounds like the board is going bad. Also, check the back of the control board. Lizards and large insects can get killed by the voltage at the board, or just get stuck and short out some of the wiring. Removing them sometimes clears the problem.

If it was sealed stuff then I’d be ok with leaving it but not worth any weird hassle afterwards if it was open bottles. Who knows what someone could/would say.

How much liquid do you all get when the pump pumps through the hose right before the check valve....?

I can see a good amount pumping just curious if there is a required amount of flow in order to make the injector work.

I found this in one of the Amazon reviews for this Stenner Injector used on a IntelliPH

"The Stenner Pump Company Injection Check Valve 1/4-Inch is designed for use with various systems. However, one customer mentioned that it may require too much pressure to flow when used with IntelliPH."
"Bought to use with IntelliPH, but it won't make it through (takes too much pressure to flow)."

COM Port. Larger cable goes to Salt Surge board. Smaller cable goes to Antenna.
I remembered at the last moment that I cannot run the pump for up to 24 hrs to let the PVC cement set.

Dan-H said:

I think this might be better.
cut this out

View attachment 644847

add two 2" 45s on the left, new tee, new pipe and coupler on the right

short pipe and coupler going down.

I can glue it left, bottom right as I have some wiggle room on the right

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That works. But, if you don't use a pipe extender the pipe going "down" out of the T will move the new T down about 1.5" and it won't line up with the rest of the plumbing. That's one of the reasons those extenders were made, so that a repair could line up with the rest of the plumbing.
Yes, a coupler and new, short piece of pipe on the left, will work and be less expensive. I generally have extenders on the brain and then when I get to a job I see how it could be done differently.
You really should, for ease of repair, cut the pipe flush at the bottom of the T and use an extender. You don't have the room to the right for the T to be placed lower and not have that pipe interfere with the one below it. It would, basically, line up with the lower pipe and leave no room for a fitting (45).
I don't like moving pipe that has been in the Sun, especially on a roof, too much as that can cause other leaks.

Now says rollout SW open

1poolman1 said:

Before you try cutting and replacing, get some Plast-Aid, mix it a bit thin, pour it at the top of the fitting and let it run to the leak. You can put some tape at the bottom of the fitting so that the "liquid" will flow under the pipe. Then, mix it a bit thicker and apply it with your finger. Yeah, it will stick to skin, but comes off relatively easy. If you use gloves, they will just tear and make a mess

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Thanks. I'll look into this and see if I can find some local. amazon delivery is a week out.

Capacity: 55000 gallons max
Suggested sizing: up to 45000 gallons (northern climate), 40000 gallons (southern climate)

Yeah - not for $2500 just to add wifi control to the SWG.
I'll stick to my RJ series SWG.