Pool Store Water Analysis vs. Taylor Pro

I know this has probably been rehashed, but I can not find anything recent.

I have been trying to decide how much salt to add to my pool, as my Taylor drop test says I am at 2800 ppm and the Jandy chlorinator says it is at 3500 ppm. Not wanting to add too much salt, I decided to take my water to the local pool store and compare tests. Well, to my surprise, many of the pool store tests (including salt which they say is 2400) were no where near what my Taylor drop tests have been.

So, here I sit again, wondering which test is the most accurate. Any thoughts?

Main filter pump breaker tripped

So, just to confirm everything before I started fooling with the pump itself, I swapped the wires to the adjacent relay and the breaker did the same thing- tripped immediately. I disconnected the red and black pump wires from the relay, no tripping. I disconnected the SWG white and yellow wires from the relay (but left the red and black pump wires connected to the relay) and breaker immediately tripped. Seems that the pump is the issue.
What do you do to trouble shoot a pump? Does the capacitor go bad on these? The capacitor is not bulging. I can't check if the capacitor is humming because the breaker will not allow the motor to run. I also can't get that plastic rear cap off to look in there for water or something (it is loose, but won't come off). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Pump priming

Thanks to the guys helping me setup my new Superflow VST pump and integrating it into my EasyTouch in a previous thread.
I noticed somewhere in the documentation in the installation of the pump that it mentioned to turn off priming. I noticed today when I went to clear out the pump intake filter and turned EasyTouch to Service and then back to auto, the pump took a good minute maybe more to fully prime. The pump was running at a speed of 3000 rpm. This got me to thinking because if the pump is running at low speed which I have set to 2200 rpm which runs most of the time, I don't believe the pump would have ever primed when I returned EasyTouch to Auto.
So guys help me program the priming function so that anytime the pump is off and it turns on it will go to it's highest available speed until the pump is primed even if it's in a low speed schedule.

Introductions

Hello all,
We’ve had an above ground pool for 4 years now. So far so good but this year when I opened it it looked like a pond. Guessing it had to do with the harsh Ohio winter this year. So I decided to put on my big girl pants and buy a pool test fit so I’m not fighting the green monster all summer instead of sipping mint mojitos the way the good lord intended! I’m a little nervous but I feel like this forum will help.

Crosswind V flow rate concerns

The high head loss is due to water moving through a small titanium tube that is also spiraled.

In my opinion, they need to double the diameter of the titanium tube to provide better hydraulic efficiency.

Water flows through the inner tube and refrigeration flows between the outer & inner tube (refrigeration loop).

The temperature of refrigeration and water are different, so heat will transfer from one with high temperature to the other one.

The flow is mostly counter-flow.

Bypass AssemblyDeluxe models include a bypass assembly. For standard models, the bypass assembly may bepurchased as a kit separately from Raypak. Part Number 100-10000816



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IntelliCenter 3.002 - Heater not working

I will delete it if necessary but the guidance from Pentair simply seems wrong because I believe my heater is connected via the Fireman's switch and they type is Connected Gas which seems correct. The only wires between my heater and the Intelicenter are for power.

View attachment 643925
Connected Gas is for RS-485 heater control, not Fireman's Switch.

Firemans switch heater says Gas Heater, not MasterTemp.

Delete your heater and add the Gas heater, and not MasterTemp.

Pentair manages to make this confusing.

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New pool - questions on sense and dispense

We just wrapped our pool build that ended on poor terms with our contractor. He basically dumped salt, turned it on, and left.
Hayward equipment:
Super pump vs 700
Aquarite Pro (AQR15-PRO)
t-cell 15
Sense and dispense with muriatic acid
Heatpro heat pump
Although we still have way too much salt (need to deal with this today), I believe I have everything else well in balance. The issue I am now running into is tons of air bubbles from the returns. While diagnosing, I discovered I am only getting bubbles when the sense and dispense unit is running. I then noticed that the probe cell is plumbed directly into the pump's drain ports, one of which is loose and probably the air culprit.

After lots of googling, it seems like the probe cell should never be plumbed directly into the pump but rather into the pipe. Can anyone confirm this for me and have any recommendation on how to tighten the connection to fix the air? Should I get someone out to plumb it properly?

I am new to all of this so any help is greatly appreciated! I will try to attach some pictures when I am home.
Welcome! There will be bubbles coming out of the returns wherever the unit is making chlorine, that’s just part of the process. Need someone else to comment on the other stuff.

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What is this?

Ive left the solar blanket on my pool for a few weeks as the weather hasn't been great since we opened the pool early April.

My FC is at 4.5, the water is clear, and the cartridge has been cleaned. Recently, I came out and found this yellowy tan sludge on the cover (bubble side facing the water) with some stuff on the walls. I also noticed a larger area on the top side of the cover.

I power washed the cover before these season.
Any idea what this s**t is?

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Yellow Mustard Algae Treatment

How are you determining that you have yellow algae? Your picture doesn't show anything to indicate it.

What brand of Yellow Out did you use?

15 pounds of dichlor will have raised your CYA level 50 ppm. That's not going to help at the moment.

How are you testing your water and what are your current numbers? FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, and CYA?
I've had yellow algae four times now, due to chemicals not being balance for pool closing. The water had a sandy-looking beige color before the Yellow Out, I don't have a photo. The flocculant drops the suspended solids to the bottom but the color is brownish or beige/tan instead of green.

The Yellow Out and sanitizer are in the attached photos, I used 4 pounds of yellow out for 18,500 gallons which is slightly more than it says to use.

I am testing using test strips, I know I should get a testing kit, which one is recommended?

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