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DASpool · Thursday at 7:11 AM

81david · Thursday at 7:00 AM

Just tested top screws of each relay with aux switch on for each. Got 1.4 volts each top screw. Had black probe of my meter on ground bar and red probe on each top screw one by one.

P00LNerd · Thursday at 6:54 AM

Cover is the opaque tarp type, which I'm sure is the major factor. But also, we're seeing regular overnights at the freezing mark by Oct.26 when I closed, so cold water was probably another factor.

IIRC, I covered the pool around Aug. 28, as the kids were back in school and it was already too cold to swim by then. But I left the pump and chlorinator run until Oct.26, when I drained the water below the skimmer and lights and blew the lines dry.

Newdude · Thursday at 6:39 AM

Hey Braly and Welcome !!! :wave:

braly11727 said:
Did everything in the instructions and still off.

If the pool is off, get a thread going in the above ground pool sub forum.

If the water parameters are off, get a thread going in 'just getting started' instead.

List all the relevant details, such as how and what you're testing. Pics say 1000 words also.

Lake Placid · Thursday at 6:32 AM

Giant655 said:
it was nasty at first but freed up after rotating a bit.

ol_whistle_britches said:
Please describe further. Sticky? Grinding? Stiff?

This is typical when a shaft seal is leaking and the pump is winterized and allowed to dry out. Corrosion will set in and the pump won’t spin up until manually freed up by spinning it with a wrench etc.

starr1005 · Thursday at 6:29 AM

PoolStored said:
Those are all good choices. How much more is the 3hp inelliflo3?

Are you doing automation?

I waa going to ask him that same question on the pump... is it worth it to go bigger on the pump too?

Not sure what you mean by automation... but it sounds like something i want!

ol_whistle_britches · Thursday at 6:27 AM

Lots of good stuff here. I’d love to see the resolution of this matter out of curiosity, but personally I would order a new pump. 24 years out of a motor is a life well lived. And switchgear too, for reasons others have stated.

Given the age and the way you described the shaft turning, I’m still not convinced it’s just a cap. It makes sense that the cap may have failed in addition to whatever else is going on. If it was just a failed cap I expect it would have spun up when you started rotating the shaft.

Giant655 said:
it was nasty at first but freed up after rotating a bit.

Please describe further. Sticky? Grinding? Stiff?

My mind is still leaning towards the wet end. I’ll add debris stuck in impeller to my original bets (winding short and/or impeller failure).

Kindly tear the whole pump down so that we can all sleep soundly knowing what really happened. The suspense is killing me.

Brian.O1484 · Thursday at 6:18 AM

Didn’t see any granules this morning but swept the bottom and re-tested the water 15 min later. Stopping at the store after work to get a 5 gal jug of chlorine so I’ll have it.

Water temp 68F
3.5ppm FC
0 ppm Combined
0 ppm CYA

dosmom · Thursday at 5:46 AM

JamesW said:
Correct.

Instant Salinity/Actual Salinity = Performance Percentage.

Thank you. Another question. Not sure if you saw this in the thread but after the system shuts down overnight I have to either wiggle or often reseat the display board to get the salt panel to power up. It then stays on al day. If it only shuts down for a couple of hours it is fine, but when off for 5-10 hours it needs some help.

Any thoughts on if this is a bad display or board?

ol_whistle_britches · Thursday at 5:45 AM

Enzodast said:
do i just set it to say start up or first cycle for 30 minutes or 1 hour is high rpm....then it just drops down. and every day when that 30 minute cycle hits it just ramps up for 30 minutes and then just goes back down?

Enzodast said:
So going with the 24/7 theory....how do i set it up so that the pump turns on the first time after shut down (backwash of DE filter etc) and have it run at higher rpms for 30 minutes to prime the system and then just drop way down to just enough for the salt system to run. i dont think there's a setting for that in the pump.

You can do this either way. Suggest you download the manual for the pump and read it. Some will set a high speed run into Speed 1 schedule programming. Others will just turn on the pumps priming feature, which adds a 100% run for a brief period (1-4 minutes, IIRC) any time you start the pump up. Either works.

Enzodast said:
so i believe he'll just be taking the existing plug/wiring off of my existing hayward tristar and installing it on the new pump.

Yup.

Enzodast said:
not sure how he can wire the SWG into that same outlet....as of now he was planning on just plugging it into the gfci outlet that my lights plug into.

Either way works fine. I wired to the line out side so I can turn everything off using the manual switch.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Hopefully it's the 240 volt version. If so, the timer can be wired as I posted earlier.

Core Control and the VS pump being discussed both will run 120v/240V. Prefer 240V personally.

ajw22 · Thursday at 4:05 AM

You have no heater. 4 PSI can be normal.

What is your PSI at 100%?

JamesW · Thursday at 4:05 AM

Is the diverter in backwards?

Did you take the top assembly apart and lubricate the O-rings?

Did you replace the non-metallic bearing?

tkeudy0411 · Thursday at 2:27 AM

Jacquelyn1215 said:
I understand what you are saying, but it is impossible to get ours exactly at 9 and 3. It has never sat exactly at 9 and 3 as long as we've owned the pool. Here's the inside/outside setup:

View attachment 643728 View attachment 643729

It's always sat slightly off like that. But I can assure you it's on tight/secure.

mine has never been at 9 or 3 either.

tkeudy0411 · Thursday at 2:17 AM

I had the same issue. I used a mixture of Goo Gone and a magic eraser. It took some work but got almost all of it off the first time.

japoolspa · Thursday at 1:21 AM

I'm backtracking here but in one post you said your remote was mobiltouch - that's a remote for the Intellitouch system. But your post title says Easytouch. Please confirm it's Easytouch. I'd like to know the firmware revision of that as well.

petman · Thursday at 1:06 AM

japoolspa said:
Did you check min/max speeds on the pump?

No as these speeds have worked for years. Literally 10+ years.

RDspaguy · Thursday at 1:02 AM

If you use plywood they will stick out farther and you'll see it at the corners. If you're ok with that, do it.
I wouldn't try to screw that pvc, it has a tendency to crack unless drilled/countersunk.
You might find that a light sanding will refresh the color of the pvc.

0xblurz · Thursday at 12:55 AM

Is that a big issue?? The handle still turns.

The pool return jets. One nearest the pump works well, the other two not so much

RDspaguy · Thursday at 12:55 AM

There should be one or more diverter valves on the top shoulder of the spa. These divert water flow from one zone to another. Check there. If there are 2 on a single pump, one likely feeds the other, so you can expect some discrepancy without precise valve adjustment.
Also, jets draw in air which makes them feel stronger. If your air controls are turned down or the intake is blocked the jets on that line will feel less powerful.
Post pics of circuit board and wiring diagram so we can see what you've got in there.

petman · Thursday at 12:43 AM

petman said:
No alerts and everything has worked perfectly for years. System has literally been perfect until just recently. I tried deleting the app and reinstalling but maybe I should try that again. Should also note that when I try to change the speed on my Mac, it does the same thing as on the phone. Not sure if that helps at all. Maybe I will power it down and back up too. It isn't in the easiest place to get to but that may be worth a shot too.

renanteperez · Thursday at 12:22 AM

Hi All,

I just had a new Pentair CCP520 cartridge filter installed today by a pool company. My IntelliFlo3 VSF pump is currently running at ~70% speed and showing 58 GPM, but the filter pressure gauge reads only 4 PSI.

I already bled the air using the relief valve
Everything else seems normal — good flow at the returns, no visible air in pump basket.
The gauge is brand new and installed on the top of the filter.

I’ve seen some posts say “the lower the PSI the better,” but this feels too low for 58 GPM.

Is this normal for a brand-new CCP520, or should I assume the pressure gauge might be faulty?

Appreciate any insights from fellow pool owners.

Regards,
Renante

renanteperez · Thursday at 12:22 AM

renanteperez · Thursday at 12:22 AM

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