New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading
- By ajw22
- Just Getting Started
- 224 Replies
Try 2400Gotcha. Thanks. Just trying to gauge what RPMs are right for my heat pump.
Try 2400Gotcha. Thanks. Just trying to gauge what RPMs are right for my heat pump.
Now you know that it probably isn't the breaker. Now, put the wires back as they were and disconnect the wires on terminals 2 and 4 of the relay that the breaker feeds. Try the relay. Likely won't trip, but maybe. Then take one pair of wires from one conduit and attach to the relay and try again. Does it trip the breaker? That piece of equipment is bad or the wires burned. If not, remove those and try the other pair. What happens? If it trips, that piece of equipment or its wiring is the issue. You have to follow the conduit to determine to what equipment those wires are connected, especially if all the wires are the same color (as some builders will do).I removed the wires (one black and one red) from the tripping pump breaker (second breaker from top; the first double pole breaker from top) and connected them to the next breaker below (same amps, also double pole GFCI; removed the wires that were going to it originally). Breaker tripped as soon as I threw them all on.
Gotcha. Thanks. Just trying to gauge what RPMs are right for my heat pump.RPMs needed to deliver a GPM vary based on how dirty your filter is and what other restrictions there are in your plumbing. It is not a set speed.
Pumps are usually choked down using GPM and you will get more flow at the high end using RPM.
RPMs needed to deliver a GPM vary based on how dirty your filter is and what other restrictions there are in your plumbing. It is not a set speed.I wish the pump manual would just say what gpm you run at each rpms…
I see you areator in the pic in your article. Can you share what's int here? is it connected to a sump pump in the bottom? I see a pipe coming out on the top under the sand bag or whatever that is. I would like to build something similar if I canIn MY pool, with MY aerator, it probably takes 6 hours to raise pH from 7.0 to 7.4.
It is completely normal for those heaters, at start-up, to smell gas in the exhaust just as the flame lights. Gas is being forced into the combustion chamber by the blower and some will escape before it all lights. Afterward there can be a faint smell of gas, but if the burner is lit it is just the "stuff" (mercaptan) that is put into natural gas so that you do smell it.I have a customer that is complaining of a gas smell from the exhaust of a relatively new Mastertemp 125. I'm not quite sure if it's actual gas, or just the smell of the exhaust. I don't know that my nose is sensitive enough. To me, it just smelled like exhaust. The gas pressure reads fine, it's outdoors (well ventilated). What are some other possible explanations for this. Is a gas sniffer the best option to test this out? Is it normal for some minor or minute amount of gas to always come through the exhaust?
Again, "Follow the conduit. That's the best way to tell.I don't know which wires go to the pump, and which ones go to the SWG, so I don't know what to disconnect.
Not without going to a completely different brand, like Pentair.Short history, bought my house in July 2020, installed iAqualink 2.0 at that time. I was always having connection issues and calling Fluidra to get back online. In November 2021 they finally decided to send me a iAqualink 3.0 if I paid a professional company to install, so I did.
Late around February 2025, I started having connection issues again, and Fluidra blamed my internet connection, which was not the issue, and I never could get it to connect. So just let it ride with the settings I had already set. Decided to figure it out yesterday and this iAqualink 3.0 is dead...no lihgts of any kind, can't reset it....I mean DEAD. Are these things just this much junk? I mean, for 500 to 600 dollars, I figured they should last 10 to 12 years easily.
I get it, electronics die, but wow, for that much I can't stomach replacing every 2 to 3 years. I have called them back, but I am sure they will not help this time. Is there another wireless alternative to the iAqualink?
Here is one place that sells parts:Hi Everyone,
I have a 5 year old Omnilogic controller - which I normally love - which is now dead. Back in August we had what I can only assume was a lightning strike (thunderstorms went through and the Omni had no display). I spent $2500 to repair it, including replacing the MSP module and a power supply board. I also added a $400 Siemens surge protector to the panel to prevent it from happening again. When we winterized, we left the breaker off.
Today the guys opened the pool, and the Omni came up briefly (long enough for me to get an email about needing an update) and then it died. The guys said they were going to call out their automation guy to look at it (he's coming on Friday). When I looked, I turned on the breaker and within about 2 minutes I could smell burning electronics. I opened it up (thinking there may be a literal fire) and narrowed the burning to the big power supply in the upper right. (at least I think so)
Anyway - I really don't want to put more money into this thing. I'm frustrated.
Does anyone know if there is a substitute automation system I could install, ideally while using the existing Omnilogic "can" so I don't have to have an electrician re-wire everything? Maybe a different less powerful Hayward controller that would fit in there? I honestly don't have much - VS Pump, booster pump for polaris, salt cell, 1 valve for water feature, led lights and a heat pump. I also am a home automation guy, so I'm cool rolling my own automation with Z-Wave relays if needed. Also am comfortable doing both line voltage and low voltage wiring.
Any creative ideas? I'm tired of keeping my pool guy's BMW shiny. (LOL). Thanks all!
PS: or even a way I could buy Omnilogic parts direct and install myself?
Post a full set of current test results from your TF-100.
Don't forget to test the salt content with a drop based test.
Your PoolMath logs are over 7 months old.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
The spring that holds the diverter tight to the gasket may have collapsed.The problem was the skimmer issue you pointed out.
For the valve handle, ever since changing the gasket, it has now become loose. I attached a photo. Also getting low pressure out of my jets.
Follow the conduit. That's the best way to tell.There are multiple wires that connect to the relay. Which ones are for the pump and which ones are for the SWG?
Yes. That one is super important in another discussion but not this one. Post the full test results from the k2005. The strips are far too vague for most tests, even if they had any accuracy.The only difference i see in the 2 kits is FAS DPD Chlorine test.
I found this in the manual for my pump. To be honest, I don’t know how to read this graph. Is the bottom gallons per minute?I put one on mine. Just cause heaters are expensive.
Got it, thanks.No staining and no debris, just salt that dissolves reasonably quickly even in cold water…