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Pentair VSP help

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Try filling the pot with water as you did before and replace the lid. Turn on the pump and as it is priming, turn the valve in front of the pump so the handle is facing the pipe labeled skimmer. If you still see no water, try turning the handle in the opposite direction so it faces main drain. As the pump is trying to prime, open the Air Relief valve on top of the filter briefly to allow air to escape. When you have the handle facing skimmer, take a peek inside of the skimmer at the poolside and see if there's any water movement.
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SWG in my future?

J
As stated above before you add any salt get a current salt measurement first. When I switched to salt after using liquid chlorine for about three years my salt level was already over 2000.

If primary concern is $ savings consider an alternate liquid chlorine supplier. Walmart is nearly half the price though I'm sure what you're getting at Leslie's is more fresh and likely to be the 10-12%.

Be aware that when the water temp drops below ~55°F that the SWCG will stop producing chlorine so during those times you'll need to use liquid chlorine or tabs. I typically use tabs in the winter to help maintain CYA otherwise come spring CYA will be near zero.

For me it'd be a tough call to choose between pentair and the RJ45. The pentair prices are getting really crazy and there is really nothing special about genuine pentair other than being able to control the output percentage through the pentair app.
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Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

E
ol_whistle, thank you! this has been very helpful. How do people in general feel about the pump running 24/7 versus giving it a break. i was planning on running it for the 18 hours...but if wear and tear isn't an issue and just leaving it on full time is better then i'm open to that as well. I also want to be electricity bill conscious here...
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100% Silicone for Step Jet Returns - Says no Underwater Use

G
Hey all,

The pool is undergoing a facelift this year: new liner, and I also had the steps reno'd.

One thing I want to do, just as an added precaution against any future potential leaks, is to seal around the return jets at the steps. I had been advised to do this previously when fixing an actual leak (where I sealed both sides of the jet as I'd dug out behind the steps) and was told any 100% silicone would do the trick.

Based on another thread on here, I bought GE Silicone 2, specifically: General PDP Template. I believe the official product page is: Advanced Silicone 2<sup>®</sup> Kitchen & Bath Sealant | GE Sealants

When I was at the store, I noticed this (and all the other brands of 100% silicone) say "Not for underwater/aquarium use" or words similar to that.

I'm confused... Why do these say they can't be used underwater, but the advice on here is to use 100% silicone. I trust you guys more, but hoping you could help me understand.

If this is the wrong product, can you point me in the direction of some better options please? I'm in Canada, if that changes anything.

Thanks so much.
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Slam Plan & Prep Questions

R
HermanTX said:
Did the previous owner or the PB not leave a manual vacuum? It is a hose, a vacuum head and a pole that attaches to a vacuum head.

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No, I've seen previous pool guys use these, but never have had one.
Do I connect it to the skimmer?
There are two holes under my skimmer basket. Choose either one?
What if I connect it to the side wall suction that my crawler uses?
My filter does not have a waste setting. How do I vacuum to waste without that setting? See attached image.
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

wireform
Beginning season had trouble wouldn't reach desired pool temp but then it was good for about ten days.I guess it's what I have going on the last 2 days. Water temp 75ish cycles on and off can't get the pool to get higher. Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board. I changed the thermal regulator in the manifold for the heck of it ,wasn't expecting it to do anything. Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum. Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place. Short cycles non stop 1 min on then off again. Any help, thanks, Allan.

Forgot to mention I checked if thr heat exchanger is leaking but no water out of the bottom left screw....
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What am I getting myself into?

P
ajw22 said:
Treat your pool like a pet and feed it every day.
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Somebody here once mentioned that taking care of a pool is like taking care of your teeth, and I thought that was a really good analogy.

Do some easy regular daily care like brush and floss and you will very likely not have any issues

Neglect to do so and you will end up with expensive and painful corrections
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

H
PoolStored said:
So you will have to see how much this impact pH rise.

Another thread for you, with more technical details, pH 7.0 to 7.4 and lots of tiny bubbles is what will help you lower TA

Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method

Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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thanks for that link! so for 30K pool, what would be a rough ball park of how long it could take for someone to reasonably raise pH by some delta (say, 0.1 increment) with aeration? I understand this question is vague because it depends on other things like aeration method, efficacy, etc, but what is a realistic range one should expect to be in? 24 hours range? 2 hours range? 48 hours?
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Alkalinity still high - 2 years!

Newdude
P00LNerd said:
Pool math indicates I'm right at the geometric mean of the ideal range of 2.0 - 8.0.
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With little room for error. The big rains the last few days shut my SWG off for 12 hours twice. If the AM self check was the bad one, my FC would swing like a LC pool that day.

Its best with SWGs to keep at least a one day buffer over min FC for whatever curveballs hit today.

There's no prizes for being 'mid range' or whatnot. Minimum is to be avoided at all costs. Thats 100% of the mission. Poolmath reports minimum (2) to high target (8) and its mostly irrelevant. That doesn't factor your climate or time of season. July in Miami is way different than October in Michagan. Or even just July at both places

Its still early in the season right now with minimal loss, but we'll be playing for keeps soon. :)
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Questions on mix of 2" and 1.5" PVC

J
Well, thankfully, I got the new 3x8 pad poured yesterday, and we had a nice clear day. The rain is back now, and the pad is covered in plastic. I used Quikcrete, so it should be ready for equipment in another day. The rain also makes it easier to finish all my digging for the pipes. The drain pipe is ready though - its sticking up out of the new slab a few inches, waiting on the rest of the plumbing...
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Ok I am a blank page- we are getting a back yard pool for the first time- need as much advice as I can get

P
mariane said:
I agree with YippeeSkippy. Better at the far side of the pool than near side and near the house. But that means the skimmer and return lines are also at the far side of the pool. Are you putting in a deep end or is it all one depth?
We put ours in the back corner of the yard behind a big lilac bush. It's at least 15 ft. away from the pool and not a problem pumping.
Bury the plumbing too. No flexible hoses.
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My old ABG had the pump/filter removed from the skimmer/return. The filter was under the deck, and to access the skimmer / return you had to go onto the deck, but you had to go around the far side of the deck to get to the stairs. It was a huge pain. Now I have my filter right next to my skimmer / return, on the far side of my pool. Much better.
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Alkalinity still high - 2 years!

P00LNerd
Newdude said:
Only use the 10s for CYA. We round up anyway so its way easier to know its not a 30 or 50 so its a 40.
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Cool. I know my CYA is low, which I never worried much about with SWG, it maintains near-constant FC whether CYA is low or not.

But if adding CYA also brings Alkalinity down, whether absolutely necessary or not, I guess it can't be a bad thing.

PoolStored said:
You need to maintain your FC higher. We don't want no algae.
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Pool math indicates I'm right at the geometric mean of the ideal range of 2.0 - 8.0.

PoolStored said:
Your CYA is 50, always round up to the next 10.
Chlorinate for 50.
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I changed CYA to 50 in Pool Math, but it still indicates my FC is right in the middle of the ideal range of 2.0 - 8.0.

PoolStored said:
Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
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Checked, also reports 2.0 as min and 3 - 8 as ideal.

PoolStored said:
Turn that SWG up and maintain the top of the range for your CYA.
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Why top of range? Isn't anywhere in range good, with lower being generally better for equipment?

PoolStored said:
Don't worry about TA. Just manage your pH.
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Got it.

sduda210 said:
Have you tested your fill water for alkalinity? Some people have high alkalinity right out of their hose. A high alkalinity just means you'll have faster pH rise. I basically have no pH rise when I keep my alkalinity in the 60-70 range but that's probably due to the slightly acidic rain and the pH of my fill water being at 5.9.
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Fill water comes from a trucking company, they dump 3500 gallons into the pool in all of 5 minutes, so there's really no opportunity to test it. But by comparing test results before/after, I guess I could extract the properties of the fill water.
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Brown Spots on Pebble from Leaves

D
PoolStored said:
Diagnose first. Try the vitamin c tablets. Don't fix anything until you know what it is. We don't know what it is. This the first step in the diagnosis.
No need to test TA, has nothing to do with it.
Also post some pics of the stains.
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Slightly worked with the tablets. Need a lot more tablets or something stronger. Some stains came out better than others. But instead of a dark brown, the color is lighter. What do you suggest? I found a chemical called A+ stain remover as well as a product from Chlorox to remove metals.
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Featured Stubborn algae afte SLAM

P
Newdude said:
Im still confused here, but thats not terribly difficult to do, so.

Do you have stains that would require the crushed up tabs, and you're calling it algae ?

Or an actively growing sediment ?

Or both ?

Got pics ? They say 1000 words and all.
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Not home right now but I would have said stains from not brushing enough. Butnow that I properly read the SLAM process again I realised I didn't follow it through. I'll do it properly and see what happens.

Will send photos if they still remain after.
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Golf simulator cabins!

jark87
Man, that’s sweet! Without redesigning my backyard, I just don’t have a spot for a full-on simulator setup, so I have to set up my Spornia net every time I want to hit. Not horrible, but kind of a pain. I plan on installing artificial turf this year and may be able to find a permanent spot for the net, along with a putting green, but not anything as nice as what you have. I sold my launcher monitor/sim because it just added to the setup. I bought a Swing Caddie device that has a display so I can just set it down without connecting it to anything, but I only get distance, not trajectory.

But having the pool to dive into while practicing is lovely!

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PoolStored
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6E6E8D71-FE03-4F7A-975C-3A295B624C4Cbbeb6aa0-789d-4a10-a432-97f26022a923.jpeg

jark87
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Quick comment on PoolMath update

D
Leebo said:
This week the app stores enabled Automatic Updates for PoolMath rolling out the update to all users. This is the same version that was released last month to users whom manually updated from the App Store, it’s just now being automatically updated users devices following the expiration of the 30 day “pause” that was put on before. I’d like to take a few seconds to update all on a few items we may see shortly plus a peak into the future.

As we move into the new framework of PoolMath we’ve noticed an uptick of users whom have “lost their data” when opening the App. We’re looking for the cause of this however users can restore their data in a few ways. Most of the time a simple logout/log back in helps sync the data once again however in extreme instances deleting the App and reinstalling takes care of the issue. We’re looking into this more however to get the user up and running asap logging out will address the issue most the time.

Next is the hiccup that’s been around for years, the issue of subscriptions not updating as expected. In this update we attempted again to improve this however it’s clear things still aren’t 100% perfect. We’ve kinda hit a point where we’re looking into hiring some outside assistance to improve this as we too are tired of letting the end user down.

In the meantime simply clicking the “Restore Subscription” will check the App stores and update your subscription. Clicking Restore will not double charge you so there’s no need to worry about that. If this fails please feel free to email us at [email protected] and we’ll be glad to assist further.

Lastly, we have some exciting progress to share. As we move forward with this update, we're thrilled to announce the upcoming Beta launch of a web version of PoolMath.

View attachment 591200
In the near future, we plan to make this new platform available for users to explore on their computers. However, we're not launching it just yet as we address a few finial issues. We appreciate your patience and understanding during this development phase.
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Any update on pool math coming to computers/laptops?
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