Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

VSP Pump Help

T
Hi All;
I was hoping one of the Jandy pro's could help me. I have a schedule set-up with my Jandy VSP and i'm running at about 1,000 rpm for much of the day and then about 4 hours at higher speed in the afternoons. i'm wondering if there is a way to set a one touch button so that I can run the pump at a higher speed while brushing and/or adding chemicals without changing my regular schedule? I hope my question makes sense and would love it if someone could help explain how i might do this.
Click to expand...

Screenshot_20250505_191945_Chrome.jpg

Newdude
Screenshot_20250505_191945_Chrome.jpg

This is new: Can't keep Ph down. Alkalinity is 90.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Lowering your TA will help control pH rise. Try targeting a TA of 60-70 ppm.

www.troublefreepool.com

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Aeration caused by water features or spa bubblers will push pH up. Your fill water along with increased evaporation could be another source for increasing TA levels and pH rise. For many of us, rising pH and MA dumping is just a fact of life. You can just live with it and add MA as needed to keep pH in range..
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored

Calcium hardness inquiry.

M
Hi everyone. My pool has been in great shape since finding this place and firing pool guy and taking it over myself a few years ago. I live in Florida and the weather started getting very sunny and warm over the past 6 weeks. For the start of the season, I cleaned salt cell, filter and checked all levels, including the ones I don’t check too often because water so clear/clean, isn’t much of a need to as I’ve gotten to know my pool.

My current numbers are:

Free chlorine: 6 (and very stable over months)
Ph: 7.9
Alkalinity: 90
Cya: I don’t currently know the number because I need to reorder chemical but as stated above, chlorine is stable.
Salt: 3400

I’ve noticed with my pool, the ph stays in the higher normal range (7.8-8.0 ish) when my alkalinity is above 60. I’m able to keep it at 7.4-7.6 easier when alkalinity is 50-60. But I learned from you guys, that’s understandable and leave it alone and let it lower in its own in time. Which it tends to do in warmer months and stay 90-110 in cooler months. I adjust ph when it’s 8 or higher.

Calcium hardness is 750. And it’s always been higher in this pool. I assume it’s the water where I live. I believe I recall someone telling me that isn’t anything to worry about or do anything about, am I making that up? That’s my question.

I have a Pentair easy touch and intellichlor salt generator. Pool and spa with spa flowing over into pool.

I do notice this white small substance blow into hot tub once a week and I just use pool blaster to vacuum out. I don’t know if it’s related to the calcium. I do not have scale on tiles etc. I do get calcium build up that’s noticeable on the salt cell when I clean it every 3 months. It’s pretty thick but, I am able to get it clean with vinegar/water. I have the white sediment in the spa now, I’ll attach a a pic and maybe someone can help me figure out what it is.
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • IMG_4181.jpeg
    IMG_4181.jpeg
    227.4 KB · Views: 10

IMG_4181.jpeg

M
IMG_4181.jpeg

IMG_0518.png

dereksanders
IMG_0518.png

IMG_0517.png

dereksanders
IMG_0517.png

Jandy AquaLink RS Randomly Shutting Down- Loosing iAqualink

J
I have this controller for about 7 years. Works fine in service mode. In Auto, every hour or two, the main filter pump shuts off and the iAqualink Wifi connection goes down. Within another hour or two, it comes back on spontaneously. I went down to the controller when in one of its "off' modes and manually cycling between Auto to Servivce to Auto does not restore anything. The panel has power durting off period and the Aquapure LCD window shows the % set and no flow (because the pump is off). No tripped breakers. Happened this evening while I had the pool lights on - pump went off - lost iAqulink wifi but pool lights stayed on.

This started happening yesterday with heavy rain and today with heavy rain - but the control panel is in a weather proof exterior box and I checked and no water leaking in but bery high humidity.

Any idea what might be flaky?
Click to expand...

IMG_0516.png

dereksanders
IMG_0516.png

IMG_0515.png

dereksanders
IMG_0515.png

ok, after much research, i still need help knowing which UV system to purchase/install

JoyfulNoise
TL/DR - low pressure mercury or mercury-amalgam bulbs are your best bet.

For a residential pool turn-key system, you’re most likely only going to find low pressure UV lamps as the standard. They are safer to operate and they produce mostly UV-C radiation and lots of heat (about 30-40% of the electrical energy is converted to UV-C, the rest is longer wavelength visible, heat, and electrical loss).

What’s key is how the UV is implemented. In a standard, single pass, straight flow design, you really need a bypass plumbing configuration to control flow and ensure as much exposure as possible. This does incur a dilution effect because you’re only exposing a fraction of the water flow to the UV source. This can be a good enough setup if you plan to run the UV continuously.

A more efficient approach is to use a larger contact tank setup where the water enters the tank from the bottom and has to flow in a centrifugal fashion so it has a long contact time with the UV source. Some of these systems are setup to inject peroxide as well so that you get the added benefit of hydroxyl radical formation.

Your biggest expense is going to be bulb replacement as they only last a year or so with constant use. So whatever route you chose, make sure you have a few bulb suppliers available. Also, grab an extra quartz sheath tub as well because those lose transparency over time too.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Rancho Cost-a-Lotta

When to remove water (from rain fall)

Newdude
Pas_pool said:
Want to the price difference and benefits of each
Click to expand...
So we get about 3ft of off season rain and it's your choice if you pump it from above or below the cover. But it'll need pumping. Solid covers are nice for leaving a pump on them to mostly be hands off, but will still need fiddling at times. I drain mine 1ft at a time 2 or 3 times depending on the year, when I was already around all day anyway. It takes 10 mins to setup/breakdown and occasional checking every once in a while, but you're mostly free to do whatever else while it drains so that time doesnt count IMO.

Either way would make me appreciate the drain to waste during the season. :ROFLMAO:

Solid covers can handle more stress, my Basset was digging in for traction and ripping the 'dense mesh'. Not to say he couldn't with a solid cover, but it'd be less likely.

I put my mesh on/off by myself and would need help with a 800 sq ft solid cover because its much heavier.

Mesh is tradionally 1/4 to 1/3 less expensive but not cheap.

That's all I got for now, hang tight for other thoughts.


Pas_pool said:
I have three of those haha
Click to expand...
Sweet. Disregard. (y)
Click to expand...

Mustard algae and waterbody proximity

W
JJ_Tex said:
I assume you have checked the stairs for hidden algae?

Other than that, it sounds like you have a solid plan. Most importantly, listen to what your pool is telling you. If 10 FC doesn't cut it and you end up with algae, then shoot for 12. Keep in mind that not all pools are created equal and you need to adjust to the factors specific to your pool like poor circulation, direct sun, extra bather load, and in your case, birds/wildlife.
Click to expand...

I have a removable ladder - does letting it dry off in the sun kill mustard? I leave the brush and nets and stuff in the pool during the SLAM, but not the ladder...
Click to expand...

Discrepancy between TFP test kit and Pool Math App

G
I am trying to get my Total Alkalinity sorted out on my 30k gal plaster pool. The card that came with my TFP test kit said that my ideal range for TA is 100-120 with an ideal value of 110 for manually chlorinated pools. However, the Pool Math App says that my ideal range is 60-80 with an ideal value if 70. Which is correct? My TA was very low so I raised to 100 based on the card recommendations, but now the app is saying the TA is too high. Which is right?
Click to expand...

Nasty stain on Pebble Sheen!

dndrich
ajw22 said:
Looks like metals staining - iron or copper.

Crush up some vitamin C tablets into a paste and put it in s sock and rub it on the stain. If it lifts it is iron staining. If it gets darker it is copper staining.

Stain ID Kit | Jacks Magic

jacksmagic.com jacksmagic.com

Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading For iron staining

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
OK, excellent advice! I am going to give the vitamin C trick a try soon. If it works, I assume I could use ascorbic acid in a sock and spot treat the stain.
Click to expand...

1746485727560.png

PoolStored
1746485727560.png

When to remove water (from rain fall)

P
Newdude said:
Not that often to matter IMO (3 to 4 times a season) and the puddle was gone in 20 mins. But before the pool that area was nothing special. 🤷‍♂️


Yup. I got a bigger one that takes a 1 inch or 1.5 inch hose because waiting hours and hours gets old. Now I only wait hours. Lol. Amazon has a 1.6 HP Lanchez pump for $83 which is cheaper than the 0.3 HP at the box stores. Kinda a no brainer.
Click to expand...
Oh ok. I have three of those haha. Before I found the leaks in my basement and patched them I had some fun a. One seasons back 🙄

What did you mean I’ll need a pump when I get a mesh cover? My PB quoted me one installed, but I’m trying to research solid covers now. Want to the price difference and benefits of each
Click to expand...

SLAM Complete: Still Milky

Newdude
LordNorth said:
I do the OCLT because again, what does it hurt?
Click to expand...
It hurts nothing but your patience. 😁

To be fair, i'm up early everyday and i'd probably do them for funsies too.


LordNorth said:
I guess i did misread though.. i was thinking that CC needed to just be less than 1
Click to expand...
That's one of the 'should I slam' criteria. (1+ CC).

To exit slam / pass OCLT you need :

-TFP clear water

- Overnight loss of 1FC or less (IMO C's don't get degrees here, so i count 1 FC as a fail).

-CC's of 0.5 or less. (IMO, if one needs 0.2 resolution to pass, they got a C- at best)

Have refreshers, more will make sense now :
SLAM Process
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test




LordNorth said:
Yes added DE to the filter.
Click to expand...
Any noticable improvement compared to the slow improvement ? How quickly did the PSI spike ?
Click to expand...
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back