Try the display then, it may be the cheapest and easiest route to go first.

They can't mark what they don't know about so don't be surprised if they don't have a record of your private gas line, other than that you have one somewhere.

yeah, I did look and they do sell the display separately. Tough call I guess. My display numbers are getting hard to read, just fading over time maybe. My plastic standoffs are a little loose, I think one is broken, so maybe that has something to do with it but I have to jiggle it a pretty good bit for power to show.

Newdude said:

811 will take a full description :

'Drilling support holes for 10x12 pergola 5ft off back door' (etc).

If they deem the heater line to be privately owned, they can probably recommend a local company to hire to locate it. Its tricky because technically anything past anyones meter is customer owned, but none of the utilities want their service damaged so sometimes they mark it and sometimes they dont.

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When I did it here (not Texas), the guy came out and had no idea whats the specifics were and wanted to know the general area of what was needed and then marked out everything that was in that area. I’m assuming he’d have marked absolutely everything if I hadn't been there to limit the scope for him.

Bperry said:

When the guy comes out just tell him what you’re doing and he’ll mark out the gas

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811 will take a full description :

'Drilling support holes for 10x12 pergola 5ft off back door' (etc).

If they deem the heater line to be privately owned, they can probably recommend a local company to hire to locate it. Its tricky because technically anything past anyones meter is customer owned, but none of the utilities want their service damaged so sometimes they mark it and sometimes they dont.

Also, in this and many other circumstances, I consider a $20 bill at first meeting to be an 'attitude adjustment fee'. Hey man !!! I'm (insert name here) and I'm buying lunch today. *gives $20*. Anywho this is what we're doing........

PoolMath
The bottle label will tell the strength of the acid. It can vary from supplier to supplier. Your PH is fine. Anything in the 7s up to 8 or 8.2 is good if the pool likes to be there (doesn't take acid to keep it there). This won't damage the cell. Where did you hear that? Oh, probably in the manual. They also tell you to clean the cell with acid but we don't recommend that. There are other ways.

paulyatt said:

Happy spring! I had some rust that I painted over in the fall. Over the winter, I slowly lost about two feet of water. I took the cover off and don't see any tears or large holes. I don't open the pool for a few more weeks. Should I do anything now, or just wait until I open the fool and fill/treat it, then use a leak detection kit? Thanks!View attachment 643296

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Your second picture shows rusty water leaking through the painted area. That may be where the water went.

I don't think you can buy just the display. It could be that or the board socket that is wonky. It either makes a good connection or doesn't. You could have a cold solder joint on the board connector. That might be fixable but someone would have to reflow those pins.

Newdude said:

Find out where it is :

View attachment 643289

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Do this. When the guy comes out just tell him what you’re doing and he’ll mark out the gas line location. Concrete tends to be 4”~ deep and gas lines are supposed to be deeper, but the drill bit doesn’t always stop at the required depth.

+1 on Chlorine.

99% of the time, chlorine should be your #1 priority. How long has it been 0? Do you have liquid chlorine on hand? If so, please add some before you finish reading this sentence.
By the way, 24oz of 10% chlorine will add 4.7ppm of chlorine to your 4k gallon pool.

So last night at 9 PM my FC was at 15.5 (I added LC at 6:30 AM to get it up to SLAM level of 16, so I only lost .5 FC throughout the whole day which was overcast and rainy) and when I checked this morning my FC was at 15 and my CC was at 0. So other than the pool being clear from my previous post, that's all I'm waiting on to finish my SLAM. I need to get my FC up at SLAM level until my pool is clear clear correct?

10 hours (?) @90% should make a little over 4ppm and you only made 1 FC. If you lost another 1 FC last night like you did the night before it still doesnt account for the missing 2 FC.

Maybe the cell lost one polarity and is only producing half the time it claims. But the primary cause is not CYA, so we've ruled that out. I would SLAM on a prayer that there is a light algae bloom. It'll be a quick one with clear water either way and I'd sleep better about replacing the cell afterwards if it didn't work.

Or use whatever production the cell gives you and supplement with LC daily until it dies. If i had to lug jugs, I'd rather lug half the jugs than all of them.

That was a good read on the testing. I just did a FC test after running the SWG at 90% all night and it appears to have gone up to 6.
Would that be a reasonable increase from 5 last evening?

Jimrahbe said:

Chazas,

I'm like you and like to run things until they die.. The cord being tacky, does not keep the robot from working.. I'd replace the tracks and see what happens.

That said, I had the Warrior, and the EVO is a much better robot in my mind... the cable is better, and filter basket is better, if you buy the additional extra fine basket.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Thanks. It’s not logical but the cord being so gross to handle is starting do drive me nuts.

HarrisonHRG said:

Does anyone know? Are the CC’s still gassed off with the AOP system? E.G we still need to look at adequate ventilation/air exchange?

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You will still need to provide adequate air exchanges. UV systems are point of contact only. When the pool is re-chlorinated and bathers re-enter, monochloramines in the pool will have time to be oxidized by the chlorine and convert to dichloramine and trichloramine….the UV system won’t ever see them. The trichloramines will offgas into the air and now you have a ventilation concern.

Chlorine ASAP! Next, CYA. Next, pH.

BTW: What SWCG do you have that works with 6000ppm? If truly 6000, you need to do a water exchange to get that to 3000.

I'm not sure there's a hard & fast rule of how high is acceptable. As a tool, it lets you know the water table is rising and could be exerting pressure to the shell (upward) from underneath. Generally, as long as the pool is 100% full it should be okay, but you might speak to your builder to see if they have a recommendation of when you should be concerned and if there is anything else you can/should do other than pump water out from below with a sump pump as PoolStored indicated.

The cell tested good and the salt level is 3000, I was able to recalibrate the panel and it now reads 2700. We'll see if that holds. This morning upon startup I again had to jiggle the display in order for power to show in the panel, upon startup all lights were off but after jiggling the display power came on. I know we discussed the board maybe being bad but is it possible it is the display? Is there a way to test between the two? Thank you

Any 100% pure cyanurric acid is fine. 4lb or 5lb bags at Walmart / HD / Lowes work in a pinch but are $5/lb. The Amazon brands are about $3/ lb right now. I get Puritech for CYA or CH on Amazon for $2 /lb in Dec or Jan. (I stopped with CH but its still a good deal)

If your TA ever needs a boost and it probably won't, 13lbs of Arm and Hammer Baking soda is $10 at Bjs/Costco/Sams and is a lifetime supply.

If your PH is low, which also probably won't happen, then hit up any laundry aisle for 20 mule Borax. It's $6(?) for a 4 lb box.

If you’re feeding with a 30 amp double pole breaker you should be fine. The Intelliflo requires 12.4A max, the heater 5.5, and the SWG 1 amp or 2 (don’t recall exactly on a circupool). Total is 19.9A worst case, which puts you under the 80% continuous load threshold of 24 amps for the circuit.

You really don’t need the Intermatic timer anymore as the pump can take care of everything the timer was doing before.

The relay board instructs you to use 12 ga because the assumption is the high amp relay is feeding 16 amps, which 12 ga will handle. You’re running two appliances that both draw less than that so a lesser gauge would be acceptable. However if you’re already planning to run 12 ga that’s more than fine.

If you don’t have a double pole GFCI feeding the circuit I would encourage you to swap one in if you are comfortable doing so. They are spendy, and you need to get the correct CB for you panel, but IMO it should be done.

KBreuer15 said:

We got new wifi over the winter and when I try to connect my omnilogic pool control, it doesn't work. When I tap on my Wi-Fi name, it doesn't prompt me to give it a password. When I click on other Wi-Fi systems in range, it does prompt me for the password. Any ideas?

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Lol. It just fixed itself overnight.

PoolStored said:

Yep. Open the pump cover. Clean the cover, clean the mating surface on the pump. Inspect and lubricate the o-ring with silicone lube (magic lube II), if the o-ring is cracked or compromised, replace it. Also the drain plugs.

You need water in the pump first so that the shaft seal has some water to cool the mating surfaces while priming. Just run the hose for a bit to get some water in the volute. Then replace the lid.

Yes, you now have the valves "open." Let us know how it goes.

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Got everything up and running at about 10 PM last night. Now just gotta get the chemistry right. Thanks for your help!

PGQ24 said:

You wonder why the pool robot vacuum industry is 15 years behind the land robot vacuums. Ridiculously sad.

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Many aspects of the pool industry are so. The Pentair IntelliBrite® 5G Color LED for example. It's got banks of red, blue and green LEDs inside, which means its capable of producing millions of colors. But you only get five. And with a little extra RAM, it should be capable of remembering any number of customizable light shows, but nope, you only get seven of those (predetermined, and only a couple are worth using, IMO).

But that's not the best part, and probably why you only get so few options: to access the five colors or seven "shows," you have to turn the light on and off some number of times. No kidding. on-off-on-off-on: red, on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on: green, on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off-on: tropical show. What?!?

Now, to be fair, the light can be controlled by one of Pentair's pool automation controllers. But if you want the tropical show, the controller has to jump through the same hoops, and you can hear it clicking its relay: on-off-on-off-on-off...

There are lots of examples of this stone-age "tech" in the industry. The big three equipment manufacturers don't push each other, and tend to stick with what works. So there's little innovation, or rather, the innovation there is is glacially slow.

I suppose the silver lining is that the equipment doesn't plague us every few days with notices, demanding that we update the various components. So there's that.