Our European Distributor, Total Water Products, located in Wales can assist. Speak with Wayne or Paul.

Adjust the manifold pressure to -0.2" w.c .

Show the Fenwal Ignition Control Module.

Show the Heater barcode label.

And if I wanted to automate, would the RJ-30 still be a solid choice?

edit: also to make sure I'm understanding correctly; you're saying the RJ-30 has 5% increments whereas the Edge 25 only has 20% increments?

ajw22 said:

Let us know how that setup works for you.

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works like a champ! Thanks for double checking me!

Do we know if the feature to modulate valves at different positions is a feature that they finally released on the intellicenter? I poked around a bit, but didn't find anything that stood out. I'd love to be able to set the valve position different depending on what feature I'm using. ex: Valves set in one position for running just the waterfall and set to a different position if running waterfall and deck jets.

PoolStored said:

I would aim a bit higher so that if you have a high demand day (swimmers, organics etc), you will stay in range.

Visible Algae = SLAM.

Basic Pool Care Schedule

This basic pool care schedule can guide you in creating your own pool care routine. Regular pool maintenance will keep your water sparkling!

www.troublefreepool.com

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Thanks. I am leaving tomorrow for a short business trip but will return on Thursday and will plan to start he SLAM then. Pool Math is telling me a target FC of 31 and I need to add 13 gallons of liquid Chlorine. Just confirming that is right ?

So when I get back from my trip I need to lower PH to 7.2 and then add a ton of chlorine. I turn off the salt cell during the SLAM. Should I backwash the DE filter prior to starting ?

Thanks

Ahultin said:

I Installed it today, so far all is working well, as a bonus, it appears that they finally got history working! Install went flawless, did not appear to "purge" any settings. We shall see if all runs as it should tomorrow.

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Is njsPC working for you?

It's not the lake, it is your FC management. I live on a lake with algae during the summer, I never get algae. All the other advice above it true, but mustard algae does not require staying at the top of the range, Black algae does...but I keep mine 1 or 2 above range so that if I get a high demand day, I will never get below range. Remember, FC levels up to SLAM levels are safe for people, and equipment, so run at the top end of the range or higher.

3stacksOfHighSociety said:

I can’t reply figure out the difference between the RJ models.

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RJ-30 would be just fine for you...The RJ has 5% output increments...which leads to a lot less changing inputs. (if your increments are 20, you might toggle between 20 and 40 to get what you need, at 5%, you can get really close and just leave it a few days before you have to change it)

I switched now 3 seasons ago - never a complaint about feel. I can taste the salt a bit, but no one else that has been in the pool can. I float far easier than I could ever before! Maintenance time for the pool has shrunk to minutes per week, all due to the consistent chlorination.

Ditto on moving up to the RJ-60. You can run it at a lower setting, and therefore get a better extended life. The 5% adjustments are more than enough (I didn't know about the discountsaltpool upgrades when I got mine (darn)).

My flow switch went bad last year, luckily in the off position. Warranty replacement was quick and easy. Flow switches are only a backup safety device.

I use timers for making sure it doesn't run when the pump doesn't. But a MUCH better solution, if you cannot interface direct to your pump (Call Circupool - they might have a solution!) would be:

Picture Thread! SWCG add, plumbing cleanup, pump power interconnect! Might help someone...

Sounds like it would be right up your engineering alley!

What I am trying to understand is can my cell produce chlorine but still be bad?

I assume you have checked the stairs for hidden algae?

Other than that, it sounds like you have a solid plan. Most importantly, listen to what your pool is telling you. If 10 FC doesn't cut it and you end up with algae, then shoot for 12. Keep in mind that not all pools are created equal and you need to adjust to the factors specific to your pool like poor circulation, direct sun, extra bather load, and in your case, birds/wildlife.

Pas_pool said:

I did not know this. Thanks for mentioning. Is there anytime you don’t turn off the pump before you adjust anything? Or is it good practice to turn off the pump whenever adjusting anything?

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Your setup is somewhat unusual. Most people with cartridge filters do not have a valve that goes to waste. So I think he, like me, thought you had a sand/DE filter with a multiport valve.

You may move the valves while the pump is running just try not to starve the pump of water while doing it. I never shut my pump off before turning valves.

I did end up purchasing the Beatbot. I have a love/hate relationship with it.

LOVE:
no cord
basket is larger than my Dolphin M400 was

HATE:
It’s consistently missing large random spots in my pool. Not the same spot every time. I’ve tried everything. Starting it in various spots. Pump off, nothing else in the pool but this robot. Doesn’t matter. It misses spots.
Price

JamesW said:

Since you are getting ignition, it is probably not an ignitor problem.

Most likely, it is low inlet gas pressure causing low manifold pressure, which causes low Flame Current.

Check Inlet gas pressure and address as needed.

If inlet is good and manifold is still low, increase gas pressure to make it read -0.2" w.c.

Once you get -0.2" w.c on manifold and there is still a problem, check Flame Current.

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I will hook up the differential digital manometer again and show you all the connections. I never adjusted the gas valve to get the -0.2 in wc.

JamesW said:

Show where the test leads are connected.

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Sorry just getting back on here. They were set up correctly like on the diagram on the manifold side of the gas valve, not the inlet side.

I have a medium sized pool. I guess you would call it a free form?
I usually get my solar covers from Amazon, Sun2Solar like SJPoe said. My current cover is the 1600 series, rolls up fairly neatly on the reel.
The reel is a Rocky's Eazy Roller. Super heavy duty, no sag, 'EAZY' to use.
I put the solar cover on for the first time this season, just yesterday, pool temp already up a few degrees.
I run my pump as normal with the cover on. No, it doesn't skim the top of the water, but it still circulates. Which is fine, because there isn't any debris on the surface to skim, it's all sitting on top of the cover.
On very hot days I roll the cover back and let it get some sun and that's when I'll either throw the betta skimmer in or run the robot and add any chems that need adding.
Take my advice and go for the blue cover. The clear covers only look good for a day, then it just starts looking like a big trash bag.
Oh, also, we have an aluminum rod at the other end and attached a rope, so I can roll it back out solo fairly easily.

So I have two units being shipped to me and I have the gas company (propane) coming to disconnect and remove the old heaters and hook up the new ones (plumbing and gas) for $700. They will not touch the electric. Is there any reason I should not disconnect the old electric myself and hook up the electric to the new units when they are installed? I did not want to touch the gas hookup, but the electric is usually relatively easy, unless I am missing something.

@CRUZER929
I am having same issue, only displays Tripure message. Have you resolved the issue? I tried the breakers but no luck. I just ordered fuses, I am hoping that works. My dear husband used to take care of all pool related problems but he passed and it's up to me. I would hate to have to buy a new one. Thank you