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Hayward DE Filter - reassembly question

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I went to put it back on and it looks to me like it was broken off. I reattached the filter with the rod hanging down, which is how it was. But I suspect it is all supposed to be one piece. Hopefully this will at least be an improvement as the filter is clamped on. I ordered a replacement as well. Photo shows the two pieces.
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Pentair Filter Pump shutting off

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duxthaman said:
The volute on my Polaris pump cracked the other day. Happened to be home when I saw the water spraying everywhere. Replaced and started up my 2.0 HP filter pump. Was having a little issue with getting a solid prime but it’s normally got a few bubbles blowing through my returns. After about 10-15 mins of semi-priming the pump just turned off. I checked the impeller and found no obstructions. I used a drain bladder while it was off to try and clear any other debris. Turned pump back on and it fired up with a not of trouble priming. Turned it back off after 30 seconds and filled the basket with water and tightened the lid. I stuck a drain bladder down a return line in one of my skimmers. Turned pump back on and it fired up. I was able to get a prime after a minute or two. Came back out a few mins later and prime was lost, but then I heard it catch again and it primed but blowing a lot of bubbles. A few mins later the pump cut off again. No visible leaks in my piping. I did notice the basket on the pump housing was whining a lot after it turned off. When I opened the cap the pressure released and it stopped.

The pump is about 6 years old. Is it overheating from not getting a prime or is it time for a new one?
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Which Pentair pump do you have?
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Damaged Waterfall Weir

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MichiganBruce said:
Thanks for the reply. The bottom section of this fixture does look like the Jandy Sheer Decent Waterfall you shared, but my fixture has the unusual 45 degree turn at the top. Makes me wonder if this was actually a Jandy Sheer Arc Waterfall that was incorrectly installed to make it work like a Sheer Descent (maybe there wasn't enough water pressure to get the arc effect). I cannot find any photos or drawings of a Sheer Arc fixture. Could this be Part No. 1218CSA Sheer Arc Waterfall?

I could replace it with the Jandy Sheer Descent with Bottom Feed, but it may not perform exactly like the other existing waterfall fixture.
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Spoke with a friend who is a builder. While the diagrams usually show the installation in a horizontal orientation, the fixture can be installed in any way that will provide the desired effect. That may be what the builder of your pool did.
Its not pressure, but flow, that determines the way those falls look, usually requiring 20 - 30 GPM/foot of length.
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SWG Install and Opening Help

reaton
Last check CYA was 40, down from 50. I added LC this morning around 6:30 AM to SLAM up to 20 FC. I just checked and my FC is still at 17. I guess that's good? Means most bad stuff is dead. Deep end is still a little cloudy, can't completely see the bottom. I've had to turn the pump off for a few hours while the water level gets back up after back washing and vacuuming. So hopefully I'll get that back on in a couple hours ans resume testing.
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Ok I am a blank page- we are getting a back yard pool for the first time- need as much advice as I can get

HermanTX
Good luck with your project. Keep us posted as it progresses.
It is a good start using a SWCG as that will make it easier to manage the chemicals. Be sure to get get a good test kit and get the salt kit with it. The TF Pro with Salt is good value but review the following
Test Kits Compared

You will need to have some muractic acid on hand as well as salt to add to the pool. When you get a test kit, test your tap water or whatever water you plan to use to fill the pool. Post those for feedback.

Also check out the PoolMath app. it is an easy app to track your test data as well as guide you on what and how much chemicals to add when needed.
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Pentair Mastertemp 400 not turning on from Easy TouchPanel

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History on this. Rodents have been around for sure. Evidenced by the bottom of the insulation under the heat exchanger disappearing and some previous nests. The transformer had previously failed. It wasn’t initially showing any power to the heater board and no power output from the transformer. Also didn’t ohm out correctly. So I replaced it. This failure happened over 3 years ago. Transformer blew, blower replaced, new oem heater board replaced. Heater worked 3 times then the no power failure occurred. Waited three years since, and then the manifold housing started leaking so I replaced the manifold and orings. Heat exchanger inlet pipes still look good. Then attempting to repair this current issue. Another new transformer, new heater board. So it has been an idiots Journey. I truly hope I am surrounded by geniuses because this is getting expensive. Lol
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Leaky diverter

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Well - my brain does not seem to be firing on all cylinders.
The goo is called "Pool Lube" for a reason. If you coat a stopper with it, the stopper doesn't stop - it just slides out of the pipe the more you tighten it. I did find that the valve does leak a bit of water too - a little flow pushed the stopper completely out.
Naptha does an OK job of removing the goo (PTFE kind). A bazillion tight wraps of tape around the pipe/stopper did not change the small air leak. So perhaps it is someplace else, also. Time to take off the lid, and check that seal along with the relief valve. Thanks for the tip.

But the temp has dropped, and it is now 45 outside, so that will be a tomorrow project.
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Looking for a way to test GPM at each return

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sorpasorpa said:
I see what you mean. For some reason I was thinking the meters would be calibrated to account for their own resistance and give you a reading without that but that wouldn't make sense.
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Why would you want or need to know the flow at each return? Unless each line was valved individually it would be information only and could serve no purpose other than satisfying curiosity or drive you crazy trying to do something about "unbalanced" flow.
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Anybody Ever Seen This?

Mr. Muriaticacid
I installed this IC40 in May of 2018. It still works flawlessly. The problem I have with it is the top half of the housing is starting to separate at the forward end. At higher speeds it leaks right where the gray adhesive(?) is visible. I was afraid that it would totally separate one day when I wasn’t around and cause major chaos to my equipment! It was painful to shell out $1400 but you can’t put a price on safety. I plan on keeping it,just in case, and knowing that I need to keep the pump speed down low. I was just curious if anybody has seen this or if it’s possible to fix it.
One other thing, on the old IC40 I could run the pump as low as 600 rpm but the new one triggers the flow light if I try to go that low, odd.IMG_2447.jpeg
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Mr. Muriaticacid
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Damaged Waterfall Weir

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I have the Cascade effect not the Rain effect. As I look at the Jandy catalog, the drawing of the Sheer Arc Rain Waterfall appears to match my fixture exactly (just mounted upside down), but the Sheer Arc Cascade drawing does not appear to have the same extension at the end so it doesn't match exactly (if the drawing is accurate). Both drawings are attached. If the drawing of the Sheer Arc Cascade is not completely accurate, then I agree with you that this is the waterfall I have. I sent an email to Jandy asking them to identify this waterfall. We'll see. In the meantime I might just order the one you found and see what it looks like.
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propane tank size questions

Bill1974
Other than how much storage of propane you want the other thing that determines the minimum size of the tank is the maximum rate of propane usage. The tank needs to be large enough to absorb heat fast enough from the air or ground (if it's buried) to boil the liquid propane in the tank to a gas. In the warmer month this is rarely ever an issue unless a tank is grossly undersized. In the cold months, it's much more of an issue. The boiling point is low and the heat of vaporization is a decent. Once you get below freezing the air doesn't have many BTU's in it.

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Damaged Waterfall Weir

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MichiganBruce said:
I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.
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Did you have the "rain" effect or a "sheer?" The sheer is available here according to the website:
www.goodsunplay.com

Jandy 6" Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA - Clear Lip - Online Swimming Pool Supply Store & Warehouse

Jandy 6″ Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA – Clear Lip Sheer Arc Waterfalls can be positioned just above the waterline, no raised bond beam required, making it perfect for vinyl liner pools.The fall projects up from the unit at a 45 degree angle and then naturally arcs and descends to the...
www.goodsunplay.com www.goodsunplay.com
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