How to use Pool High manually from EasyTouch 4

Dave,

"Pool High" is just a Circuit Name.. It could be "Jim"... It is just a name, that by itself, does nothing..

What does it do on a schedule?? I suspect it just changes the pump speed.

I don't see how you could assign it to the heater button... :scratch:

If it just changes the pump speed, then most likely it is a Feature Circuit.. If that is the case, it can be turned on or off by using the little 3" LCD

Menu, scroll to find Feature Circuit with a name of "Pool High" and turn it on or off..

Edit... What is it you are actually trying to do??

Thanks,

Jim R.

Edit: Well, nevermind. I just read through the manual and it says that the Solar button can only be used in Service mode. But it also says the same thing about the Heater button, and also that it does not activate the pump(!), so now I'm curious about what I thought was going on with Customer B's panel. We shall see....

Edit 2: The plot thickens! The manual says the Solar button can be used outside of Service Mode to control the AUX EXTRA circuit. It looks like I can assign Pool High to AUX EXTRA, set it as an egg timer schedule and activate it with the Solar button. I will post back my results.

Thanks, Jim. I knew that about the circuit name, and Pool High does in fact just kick the pump speed up for the cleaning cycle.

Scrolling through the menus to toggle a circuit is more complicated than I'm interested in, and I'd just as soon put the panel into timeout and hit Quick Clean on the pump.

I have another customer that I'm certain has the heater button programmed to run a higher pump speed and nothing else (he has no heater), but I'll have to check this when I'm at his pool this coming week. I don't know if Heater and Solar operate differently, but I'll confirm and, if I'm right about Heater, I'll poke around in the settings to see how it was configured.

Customer A has his panel connected to a Screenlogic interface which would be just fine, but something happened with his home internet and now neither of us can connect to Screenlogic from the app.

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

An analogy that I can use is a vehicle starting up, you driving a mile down the road, the vehicle deciding that the mpg/efficiency of the engine is not optimal, and then shutting down. I guess another vehicle analogy is that an emission sensor returns a code and the vehicle's computer just decides to shut down.
I have owned cars like that. :D

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

Seems the cell was not insane all along.
Yeah, you continue to harp on that.

I still think it is insane that it WILL produce chlorine upon startup, but it then determines that the parameters are not good enough to create chlorine anymore.

An analogy that I can use is a vehicle starting up, you driving a mile down the road, the vehicle deciding that the mpg/efficiency of the engine is not optimal, and then shutting down. I guess another vehicle analogy is that an emission sensor returns a code and the vehicle's computer just decides to shut down.

Sort of like somebody saying, "Sure I can do it, but I just don't feel like doing it because it is too much work."

Sounds like insanity to me, but we can agree to disagree on this one.

Old Chlorine - Check Mfg Date if you can

I wrote about that recently...

Test after opening salt pool

Yeah, turn it off, and let FC come back down into range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Then turn it back on.
In the future, tell them you want a "no chemical" opening at a reduced cost.
You can handle startup.
Totally also because the only thing they put is LC…..
Just surprised about their salt reading at 1000. They were ready to add 200 LBS of salt…..crazy
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New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

Jim,

This morning both buttons worked just fine. It seems there was some sort of electrical connection issue in the switches that wore off after many presses. I saw the blinking (once or twice) of the power light today that let's me know the robot is ON. However, this afternoon the Start/Stop button had problems again. Rapid pressing again did get it to turn ON, so I'm thinking it will just improve over time.

If others have problems initially with the buttons on the control box, just press them firmly many times in rapid succession. That should get you going.

For the dust, I don't really mind that it takes a few runs to get it up. It is such great help to me versus manual vacuuming that I don't mind it at all. I do need to help it out a little in areas like corner platforms, steps and sharpish pool corners, but I just brush those to the bottom and the bot gets them there. Yes, I use the optional Fine Filter Canister (it is truly EXTRA fine!) and recommend that to others if you have fine stuff to vacuum up.

And the filter is so fast & easy to clean! Just spray it briefly with water and everything just slides right out.

Until I make or buy a caddy, just a couple of 7-inch scrap 2x4 pieces side-by-side works well to elevate the treads and brushes off the floor for storing out of the pool (and in the shade).
2x4 robot platform.jpg

Thanks Jim, for your robot (and other) expertise helping everyone here.
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2x4 robot platform.jpg

Damaged Waterfall Weir

Spoke with a friend who is a builder. While the diagrams usually show the installation in a horizontal orientation, the fixture can be installed in any way that will provide the desired effect. That may be what the builder of your pool did.
Its not pressure, but flow, that determines the way those falls look, usually requiring 20 - 30 GPM/foot of length.
Thanks for the additional information. If this waterfall fixture is designed to be installed upside down, as it was in this case, then the design would have considered water that is retained after winterization, and that shouldn't have been the cause of the damage. So still curious about that.

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RPM changes for Intellitouch Not Holding when using phone or computer

I am in the screen logic app on my phone. This is within the speed control portion of the app, not pool or cleaner although they are indirectly affected because the speed set in Pump section tells the pump what speed to run for each of those settings. Here is a screen recording. You can see when I change the speed of the last two, they just revert back and actually change the speed above them. When I change the speed on the Pool setting at the top, it holds, maybe because it doesn't have a setting above it, IDK. Turns out I can't attach a screen recording. but here is a screenshot I have used for many years to change speeds.

Oh, and you can change the speeds with the remote. I believe it is/was called the Mobiletouch. I still have it laying around so I tried that too to no avail.

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Compatibility with Blue Torrent variable speed pump/filter

Dead link for me...

Old Chlorine - Check Mfg Date if you can

Bought 3 pack of HDX 10% Chlorine at Home Depot. Put it in pool and tested to .5 PPM. Looked up code on the box and it was made on July 25, 2024, Liquid Chlorine loses 50% of its potency in 6 months and 90% in a year.
I only knew because the 3 pack box had a date code on it and TFP has a code conversion in the forum. Going back for a refund. They should be ashamed.

Compatibility with Blue Torrent variable speed pump/filter

How do I check the if the connection is RS485? The model is BT-IGV150.
That pump is the same as the Calimar/Circupool/Black&Decker. It will require the automation adapter to be controlled somewhat automation. It allows relay inputs to change the speeds that are set in the motor itself. That makes any brand automation able to have some control.

Hayward DE Filter - reassembly question

I went to put it back on and it looks to me like it was broken off. I reattached the filter with the rod hanging down, which is how it was. But I suspect it is all supposed to be one piece. Hopefully this will at least be an improvement as the filter is clamped on. I ordered a replacement as well. Photo shows the two pieces.
What "rod hanging down" are you taking about? If the stainless through rod that holds the whole grid assembly together, it is supposed to have a nut and washer at the bottom spreader and wing nut and washer at the top so the whole assembly can be taken apart and then held together by that long rod that is threaded at each end. it doesn't just hang down.
For now, you can take that broken part out of the manifold and install the part with the sock into the manifold. The sock should be held on with a clamp.

SLAM Complete: Still Milky

Post pictures of the pool.
Have you done ALL of these?
  • Brush and vacuum the entire pool once a day if you can. Brush inside skimmers, under main drain covers, on weir doors, inside ladders, and behind removable lights if applicable.
Sand filters take the longest to clear the pool.
What RPM are you running on your VSP? Running lower RPM will filter better.
Backwash your filter, note clean pressure. When your pressure rises 25%, clean it again. When you check your filter pressure run your VSP at 3000, then turn down to low speed to aid filtering efficiency.
Yes, I have done ALL of those... EXCEPT running on low speed. I have been running high speed on the pump trying to turn over the water as fast as possible.

As I posted, I am brushing as much as I can see. I run the brush over the bottom of the pool, but who knows if I am anywhere close to getting everywhere.

I don't have any ladders or doors installed yet.

This is at least the 8th year that I have opened the pool and slammed and the first that it has ever taken this long. I will take some photos when I get home this evening.

Thanks!
Chris
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Gunnite & Tile Repair

Recent new homeowner going on our second season and dealing with pool tile issue. I'm comfortable with basic tile repair for pools, but the erosion behind the recently loosened/fallen tiles has me a bit concerned. Gunnite has chipped away or eroded into sand leaving larger gap needed for repair then what thinset would be designed for. 1) Is this of major structural concern? (I will mention it is concrete slab cantilever style coping/decking if it is relevant) 2) If no, I'm thinking this is a job for hydraulic cement to patch the eroded gunnite to be flush with the remainder of thell shell and do standard tile repair via thinset and grouting?

The pool is 22 years old and I am inclined to believe prior owner was not the best at pool chemistry upkeep and was a frequent DIYer, but the quality of some of his patchwork tiling appears to be spotty which may have lead to the further erosion of the gunnite behind the tiling.

Any insight or perspective is appreciated.
Welcome. It would be wise to patch it up with hydraulic cement before putting new thinset, tile and grout. There’s a waterproofing membrane that can be had that may also help prevent more water intrusion.

But 22 years might be worthwhile to pull all of the tile and replace it since there’s probably more that is leaking and just hasnt come loose yet.

Filter