Boric Acid Test
- By ajw22
- Testing and Balancing Your Water
- 19 Replies

Borates Test Strips
The precise level of borates is not important. Any level over 50 ppm gets the desired results. Test strips can indicate when it is time to add some.
Dave,
"Pool High" is just a Circuit Name.. It could be "Jim"... It is just a name, that by itself, does nothing..
What does it do on a schedule?? I suspect it just changes the pump speed.
I don't see how you could assign it to the heater button...
If it just changes the pump speed, then most likely it is a Feature Circuit.. If that is the case, it can be turned on or off by using the little 3" LCD
Menu, scroll to find Feature Circuit with a name of "Pool High" and turn it on or off..
Edit... What is it you are actually trying to do??
Thanks,
Jim R.
I have owned cars like that.An analogy that I can use is a vehicle starting up, you driving a mile down the road, the vehicle deciding that the mpg/efficiency of the engine is not optimal, and then shutting down. I guess another vehicle analogy is that an emission sensor returns a code and the vehicle's computer just decides to shut down.
Yeah, you continue to harp on that.Seems the cell was not insane all along.
Totally also because the only thing they put is LC…..Yeah, turn it off, and let FC come back down into range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Then turn it back on.
In the future, tell them you want a "no chemical" opening at a reduced cost.
You can handle startup.
Thanks for the additional information. If this waterfall fixture is designed to be installed upside down, as it was in this case, then the design would have considered water that is retained after winterization, and that shouldn't have been the cause of the damage. So still curious about that.Spoke with a friend who is a builder. While the diagrams usually show the installation in a horizontal orientation, the fixture can be installed in any way that will provide the desired effect. That may be what the builder of your pool did.
Its not pressure, but flow, that determines the way those falls look, usually requiring 20 - 30 GPM/foot of length.
Dead link for me...
Uprated Whisperflow. You can change the motor to a variable-speed one.It says model is WF-28
That pump is the same as the Calimar/Circupool/Black&Decker. It will require the automation adapter to be controlled somewhat automation. It allows relay inputs to change the speeds that are set in the motor itself. That makes any brand automation able to have some control.How do I check the if the connection is RS485? The model is BT-IGV150.
Which Pentair pump do you have?
What "rod hanging down" are you taking about? If the stainless through rod that holds the whole grid assembly together, it is supposed to have a nut and washer at the bottom spreader and wing nut and washer at the top so the whole assembly can be taken apart and then held together by that long rod that is threaded at each end. it doesn't just hang down.I went to put it back on and it looks to me like it was broken off. I reattached the filter with the rod hanging down, which is how it was. But I suspect it is all supposed to be one piece. Hopefully this will at least be an improvement as the filter is clamped on. I ordered a replacement as well. Photo shows the two pieces.
Yes, I have done ALL of those... EXCEPT running on low speed. I have been running high speed on the pump trying to turn over the water as fast as possible.Post pictures of the pool.
Have you done ALL of these?
Sand filters take the longest to clear the pool.
- Brush and vacuum the entire pool once a day if you can. Brush inside skimmers, under main drain covers, on weir doors, inside ladders, and behind removable lights if applicable.
What RPM are you running on your VSP? Running lower RPM will filter better.
Backwash your filter, note clean pressure. When your pressure rises 25%, clean it again. When you check your filter pressure run your VSP at 3000, then turn down to low speed to aid filtering efficiency.
Welcome. It would be wise to patch it up with hydraulic cement before putting new thinset, tile and grout. There’s a waterproofing membrane that can be had that may also help prevent more water intrusion.Recent new homeowner going on our second season and dealing with pool tile issue. I'm comfortable with basic tile repair for pools, but the erosion behind the recently loosened/fallen tiles has me a bit concerned. Gunnite has chipped away or eroded into sand leaving larger gap needed for repair then what thinset would be designed for. 1) Is this of major structural concern? (I will mention it is concrete slab cantilever style coping/decking if it is relevant) 2) If no, I'm thinking this is a job for hydraulic cement to patch the eroded gunnite to be flush with the remainder of thell shell and do standard tile repair via thinset and grouting?
The pool is 22 years old and I am inclined to believe prior owner was not the best at pool chemistry upkeep and was a frequent DIYer, but the quality of some of his patchwork tiling appears to be spotty which may have lead to the further erosion of the gunnite behind the tiling.
Any insight or perspective is appreciated.