I've used BeauTec before and it takes weeks for the scale to soften but it does soften and scrape off by fingernail.

500g would be the minimum I would get. Also get a quote for a 1000g

Very nice! Welcome!

Great place to start. Link-->Pool Care Basics

Depends on the type of cups you are contemplating.
Post pictures of the cups and potential channel brackets.
No idea what you are dealing with...

This may help you...

Old thread revival alert. I'm about to retire and then firing me pool guy. I was looking at his Hammer Head and was doing some searching. They have come out with a residential unit that is pretty close to Formula's DIY project so I thought it might be relevant enough to bring this thread back:

n8huntsman said:

For anyone wondering, I got a $15 USB to RS-485 adapter. I was able to control the Aqualink RS system using the free One Touch emulator from Jandy's site. This is comparable to the AquaLink RS PC-Computer Interface/Docking Station, except it's $15 on EBAY instead of $200 from Jandy. The software is doing all the legwork. The data that I read off the the serial port with a serial port sniffer was not the simple ascii commands that I had hoped for as documented in the manual for the $400 AquaLink RS Serial Adapter. With the more expensice adapter, the adapter is doing the translation. The simple ascii commands are translated by the serial adapter into a confusing mix of ascii and hex, so that your software doesnt have to. If money was no object, that would be the converter to get and you can write a simple program that sends and receives the simple commands. However, I like the $15 price tag much better, so if I can figure out the protocol, it should open doors for web based programs, phone apps, and all the home automation stuff that we can imagine. If anyone wants to peak at a dump of the data, send me a PM and I'll happily email it.

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I want to peak at a dump of the data, can you email it to me, [email protected].

Sounds great. I'll do as suggested in the am.
I thought that I should record the number as soon as it turned the color not waiting until it stopped changing colors so it will be interesting to see what the values are tomorrow when I am doing the tests correctly. I don't have the test kit that has the items you referenced. I bought a refresher before this season started. Should I just buy a different kit? Or are those two tests that you mentioned available separately? I can't remember exactly which kit I have, it is the one that comes in what looks like a little tackle box or a little plastic container that girls would keep beads in something like that. That's the one I have.

Interesting. Our water supplier deliberately uses chloramine as a sanitizer. (It's controversial.) I wonder if yours does, too. I'm guessing that would cause the non-zero CC.

How do you delete a post?

While I wasn't the reviewer that op posted, it does sound like my experience. Ours didn't arrive with the cord, they shipped one and it's been working pretty well since. I think it does use about 1.5kw an hour or so for 1-2 degree increase. Humidity plays a big part in its efficiency.

I used this one and its working well. Tested output against the pentair part and it was virtually the same. Dont forget to also periodically replace the pump tubes

mknauss said:

Not possible. 8000 gallons weighs about...

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It looks like that review was probably written by the same OP (@DigitalGuru) who opened this thread I've gambled on a Aquastrong 120v Pool Heater for a 4500gal AGP. Thoughts? If so his pool is actually 4500 gallons so his experience may be close to accurate. Just that the heat pump cited is "rated for 9000 gallon pools' or 8000, whatever, so they say.

mrdorkdar said:

Not sure what my gas costs per therm but I know my electricity is $.43 per KW

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If you're trying to compare costs, then you would need to know that gas cost and do the math, comparing your .43 per Kwh (Kilowatthour not kilowatt) to the equivalent purchase of gas. Good examples as @PoolStored pointed out, here: Inground Pool Upgrades - salt, new VS pump, and now FILTER? HELP! Links to some gas costs also in that post. By contrast, I pay 14 cents/kwh in south FL now in 2025, and I read that for natural gas some locations ask for twice or 3x or even 5x (in Hawaii) what Ohio charges for natural gas. Gads - I guess mileage and priorities vary!

ajw22 said:

You have three GloBrite lights on three transformers so they can be controlled as independent circuits.

I see nothing wrong with your setup.

What functionality did you request that your local service company said could nit be done?

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Hi AJW!

Here’s some of the back story. Pentair sent me a replacement for one of their defective Globrite lights that was outside the warranty period. I choose to install it myself. I had seen the repair guy replace three lights over the years … it was not hard. Everything worked fine. Within the next year two more lights went out and I purchased them from PolyTecPools (GloBrite). I installed them a couple months apart. The installations went fine with one exception, I was having trouble getting them to “lock” in the niche.

After a few days the spa light went out, then within a few minutes the other Pool/Step lights started to flicker and then went out. I checked the wiring and all seemed fine. I tried a number of other things but nothing worked. The day before the service guy came out the Pool/Step lights randomly would go off and on.

The service guy determined the Spa light needed to be replaced. His comment regarding the Pool/Step light was the wiring INSIDE the panel was not correct… that was what was causing our problems. During his next visit to replace the spa light he would rewire the panel, BUT our lights would not be able to be controlled separately.

I repeatedly mentioned that he was the person to replaced every one of these lights over the past and never mentioned any of this. This is when he said “I know what I’m doing”.

I have my reasons why I am hoping to keep using this company for certain repairs in the future. I have asked their office manager multiple times to have the owner contact me, I was told that he may show up for this repair.

SO, the three transformers ARE important in controlling these lights separately. Perhaps that may be where the problem is.

Thanks for your input!
— York

I guess I should have said, for it to be an IntelliPro3, and be controlled by an app, it needed to be one of the two pumps I listed...

Jim R.

I Installed it today, so far all is working well, as a bonus, it appears that they finally got history working! Install went flawless, did not appear to "purge" any settings. We shall see if all runs as it should tomorrow.

Trying to narrow this down... The same thing happens with the Mobiltouch? - you change the speeds and they simply revert back and don't save?...

Was the pool pump running when you took that picture of the SWG? That’s an important piece of information.

You were talking about filling with RO water in your other thread. Have you discarded that idea?

Thank you for the input! Can you describe the changes and why it’s a good idea?

If you're on Municipal water, iron is likely not an issue. I wouldn't purchase the Tayor kit.

It's not unusual to find CCs in Municipal water. Don't worry about it.

1poolman1 said:

If you can see the burners, which is hard on a LoNox unit, are they all lit when it does light the first time? Also, it could be that the flame sensor is dirty.
RayPak usually uses the pilot assembly as the flame sensor as well. If you remove it and lightly clean it with a light abrasive, like a Scotch scrubber or even a newer dollar bill (old HVAC trick) it may solve your issue. NEVER use sandpaper.
Once the pilot is lit you should not hear anything from the ignitor if the system recognizes it is lit. If it keeps sparking, it is most likely the flame sensor.

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From what I can see, looking top down through the heat exchanger I can see that all the burners on.
I just replaced the pilot assy for this issue because I did find the ignitor has separated from the ceramic. I was hoping that was it but still same issue.

dpollac k said:

Arrived today and plan to install this weekend. Just out of curiosity, did yours arrive all wired up? With a 110v plug and ifi module already wired into the controller?

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Yessir.

Do yourself a favor and plug it into 110v inside your house just to make sure the front panel lights up. If so, good to go.