Argh. I got some plumbing worked out, relocated the drain line to NOT be dead center under where I want the heater, poured gravel around that line to fill the trench, then setup a form, all yesterday morning and on my lunch hour.

At 2pm or so, the heavens opened up, and even though I tried to cover all the "diggings" with tarps, it was no use. Rain, wind and hail blew the tarps up, and filled every hole to the top with water. It was a flood a couple of inches deep at that end of the house in fact. No mixing of concrete for the pad will occur for days, more rain today, and then a gap until Thursday.

My plan is to put a couple of box fans blowing across the form to help dry the ground faster for a few days, and hope I can mix concrete Wednesday, and then cover with plastic once it sets.

JamesW said:

Probably metals like iron.

It also looks like maybe copper and silver stains.

Can you show the system?

Do you have a mineral system?

Can you pull the cartridge and show it before and after cleaning?

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Hi-

Thank you for your quick reply.

We have a DE System.

We have two bowl fountains that have a cooper lining in the spout where the water falls over into the pool.

Any thoughts on what to do?

Thank you.

Got my replacement yesterday, it's a Seagull Pro! 4 visible differences, light blue charger plug, small wheel on bottom (probably to prevent getting stuck on drain), smaller charger, no "A" on wheel hubs. Did one run, went as expected. Happy I got the Seagull over the Scuba! Adding a flap of 50 micron aquarium filter inside helps catch the fine stuff.

That’s a nice dashboard setup.

Alexr54 said:

Otherwise it would need to be on a standalone smart controller that can be integrated in HA.

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Like I said, I haven’t gotten there yet, but my plan was to write whatever specialty logic I require in something like NodeRED and then use MQTT to signal a cheap microcontroller (or simple PLC) that runs relay control.

If you like the calimar, sit down and figure out how many speeds you need to run your pump at, and then compare that to how many relays are free on your prologic. You may not need to go the extra hardware route. I run three speeds, but I could live with 2 without heartburn.

You would need to set them before the deck is poured, wet set them as the deck is being poured or core drill the holes after the deck is poured. The first two options leave room for error. Being in the concrete cutting business I have core drilled lots of holes for ladders, you could expect to pay $300 to $450 for the two holes. If you go option 3 look for a small company and ask for a cash discount. You could do it yourself with rental equipment if your fairly handy.

Nothing super special but here is my home assistant dashboard for the pool. Its fully controllable and easy to automate whatever through HomeAssistant, and therefore Alexa.
But even with this, it relies on what's controllable from Prologic.
Otherwise it would need to be on a standalone smart controller that can be integrated in HA.

My main reasons for this are the option to have voice controls, audible alerts when salt is low, and more complex automation that Prologic can’t do.
Like controlling valves it normally can’t, more complex timers, easy out of home remote controls.
I use HA for everyone else in the house to have one point of control for any smart device without the need of 20 different remote controls. Otherwise no one but me would be able to control anything.

Probably metals like iron.

It also looks like maybe copper and silver stains.

Can you show the system?

Do you have a mineral system?

Can you pull the cartridge and show it before and after cleaning?

OBTW, a simple item if you're doubtful that cell is producing chlorine: you can temporarily set production to 100%. If your main pool pump is running, the chlorinator should also be running. With mine, I can definitely hear the bubbles as they're generated (sounds like small amounts of gravel tumbling in pipes). You should also then be able to see your instantaneous stats for voltage, amps, and polarity.

If you're not getting any of these indications, the SWCG might not be properly setup within the Omni automation system.

Interesting how you feel about running the pump all the time and wear and tear of turning off/on.
My SWG stops working below 2000 rpm so I have the pool circuit set at 2200 rpm and that would be the lowest I can have if I want the SWG to work. Also at 2200 the pool sweep no longer works so I need at least 3000 rpm for a couple of hours which is what I have set in the Pool High circuit running for 2 hrs per day.
I could consider running 24/7 for most of the time and bumping up to 2200 when I want chlorine production and then to 3000 rpm for the pool sweep. What do you think?

I love watching your progress videos. Man are you tenacious! Do your neighbors think you’re insane?
It’s way beyond a homeowner DIY project.
90% of my neighbors can’t even figure out how to put air in their car tires let alone build their own pool from scratch.

Newdude said:

I pour acid on it. Duh.

*not on purpose. Becuase I flailed at it from muscle memory of not holding acid 99.9999% of the time.

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That’s what I would too. I think letting the pH stay at 7.8 is much less hassle.

Max1988 said:

I’m the original owner. I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can about the system. It was a new system for my pool guy. All last I struggled to maintain healthy chlorine levels. This is year two and I really want to use it this year. I’ve been reading about the relay polarity and mine is off according to the panel. I went to the troubleshooting guide but I don’t understand how to turn it on. It lists the steps but it’s not making sense to me. I think this has to be activated in order for me to get chlorine??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Relay polarity is automatic -- you can't choose it.

What you're seeing is the OmniLogic app's diagnostics page for the chlorinator. You have it set to 70%, so it should read 'Chlorinating' frequently from the top level status page. When it's chlorinating, then you can poke into diagnostics to see what the polarity is (K1 or K2), the amps drawn, current voltage, etc.

It's basically set in and forget it (to an extent). In my case, I've had it programmed between 25%-35% so far this Spring, which has been enough to keep me chlorine in-range. In fact, on a few occasions--like multiple cloudy days with lower UV--I've needed to reduce the percent production to avoid having too much chlorine in the pool.

I'm also new to a SWCG. The biggest help I've found so far is using my TFPro Salt kit to do a 'full panel' chemistry set once a week, while testing pH and free chlorine (FC) every 1-3 days. This has helped to establish a baseline for where levels are but, more importantly, to get a better sense for chlorine demand.

I'm sitting right about 50-60ppm CYA at the moment (slowly increasing by adding CYA granules to skimmer via an aquarium fine mesh bag). Therefore, I'm looking to keep my FC between 4-7ppm. When I see it drifting too high over a few days, I'll bump down my chlorine production. When I see it trending too low, I'll bump production up.

berger said:

ECO ONE hose filter

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Hose filters are really expensive chlorine removers. Yours filters to 20 microns which is somewhere between a sand filter and carts/de.

We'd be having members pump through them if they removed anything else and nobody would spend $1000 on RO or drain/refill their pools. Yours claims it could do your pool 4X.

I can't see the entire pool in those pictures, do you have a ladder? Light?

Here's photos. Not that you can really see much. It's clean. Just cloudy.

Losing zero FC overnight. Reading 0 CC. CYA is 30. Been keeping FC at 16ppm, checking adding chlorine at 3-4 hour intervals. Bushing what i can see.

This is at least the 8th time opening and i have never had it take this long.

Bperry said:

What if a mosquito lands on your arm while pouring? Do you swat it with the left or the right hand?

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I pour acid on it. Duh.

*not on purpose. Becuase I flailed at it from muscle memory of not holding acid 99.9999% of the time.

The only seawater pools I have heard of are continuous recycling from the ocean.

Ah … they are using seawater in this pool.

Very bad idea.

Seawater has all sorts of dissolved minerals in it. The precipitation is going to be horrendous. Also, seawater has a significant enough bromide concentration in it that you will be creating bromine in your pool. Bromine is very unstable towards UV and uses up any chlorine you generate by constantly converting bromide to bromine.

It’s really not a good idea to use seawater for electrolytic chlorine generation.