Read this thread and follow the links in it…

Does anyone know where we can purchase just the circuit board for the power supply. Ours is 3 yrs old and the power supply just stopped working. Like 3 weeks out of warranty. Go figure. But my husband checked it with the meter and brought it in the house a plugged it to make sure and nothing. No power at all. And I have searched to try and find a replacement board with no luck. Or is there is a third party board that will work I will take that too. Thanks.

lsurefugee said:

I found this article and this appears to be happening to our pool. We live in South LA but did have a temperature of 9* this winter. It did stay below freezing for about 48-72 hours.

Calcium crystals all over plaster

I had my pool build last summer and winterize it with a pool company. When we open a our pool this year we notice our pool plaster feel rough and no longer smooth. When I look at the pool plaster I notice all these tiny calcium crystals all over my plaster. Someone told me I might have to...

www.troublefreepool.com

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The Borate Pool Opening in Aqua Magazine discusses how borates can limit pH rise while a pool is closed for the winter. High pH while a pool is closed can cause scaling. Those that find their pools with very high pH at Spring opening may benefit from borates, with the pool open or closed

I found this article and this appears to be happening to our pool. We live in South LA but did have a temperature of 9* this winter. It did stay below freezing for about 48-72 hours.

joshuazzx said:

How about Morton Pool Salt? It costs normally 8.5 dollar

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Then that is your list for Aqualink compatibility.

Those who got burnt by Pentair LED lights are looking to try Jandy Watercolors.

Those who got burnt by Jandy LED lights are looking to try Pentair.

They all stink and none have demonstrated long term reliability. Partly since none have been out for that long.

Lighting Basics - Further Reading Contains a survey of the market and manufactures.

Happy shopping. Let us know what you decide to do.

I buy Aquasalt from my local pool store for about $14/bag. Makes it not worth the trip to save more, dissolves quickly, and never had a problem with impurities …

Newdude said:

Yup thats it. Then shift to 7.8+ once the TA gets where you want. If you dose over a bit to 7.6 its no biggie.

The FC and Ph likely swing more often than that. Or if not, make sure youre a full blown ninja at them.

Salt / CH / TA and CYA will all be plenty solid to go weekly. Once they prove stable there, go two weeks, then monthy.

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Haha sounds good. It’s crazy that all of this sounds normal to me now, but a week ago I was lost

What does your Color Light Setup page show?

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Exactly the same as the one you're showing.

Thank you. This is very helpful. After watching the videos, I will explore gas valve further. I’m not getting any flames, just the igniter. Probably not flame sensor.

I was out running errands all morning so I haven't slammed yet. Just tested and FC is 6 and CC is 0

I also pushed the "more" button on the SWG for 3 seconds, the lights flashed and then lit "60%" which I read is the approximate life used on the cell? Not sure if that's worth anything or not.

ajw22 said:

That is usually fine, but some folks last year reported staining after using it.

It is hard to say what the quality will be from batch to batch and year to year. Some of the major brands in the big box stores rely on their brand and price rather than their quality.

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This and the fact that most “brand name” salts simply license their name to a salt manufacturer and the manufacturer can procure salt from lots of different raw material suppliers. So there’s really nothing magical about a particular brand of salt. The brand simply specifies the use for the salt, some particular product specs, and the packaging type. Then the commercial manufacturer supplies the product to the wholesale distribution channel and off it goes to retail outlets and customers.

Typically standard softener salt is your best bet. You might get some dirt in the pool afterwards but that’s usually easy to clean up. If a pool owner were simply topping off their salt levels with a bag or two, then you can splurge for the faster dissolving “pool salt”.

Also, did you price any of this out with a local pool store? They usually sell individual bags for a steep markup but often will give you a price break if you’re buying in larger “startup” quantities. Might be worth a phone call to ask and see if you can get that $25/bag price down a bit.

The salt cell was replaced and I didn’t get algae throughout this issue so I’m learning. I wish I didn’t have so many problems with salt cells though. Thx for your help!

I'm out here. Starting to look at this now. Where exactly is this flame sense rod?

I see the gas line for the pilot light going down under and then up in between the burners and I see an orange line which I believe is the igniter for the pilot light. I'm not sure which side or where this flame sense Rod would be located

Pas_pool said:

So, wait until pH goes about 7.5/7/6 and then add more muriatic acid to get down to 7.2 again?

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Yup thats it. Then shift to 7.8+ once the TA gets where you want. If you dose over a bit to 7.6 its no biggie.

Pas_pool said:

Also, do you think I am good to know just test once a week?

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The FC and Ph likely swing more often than that. Or if not, make sure youre a full blown ninja at them.

Salt / CH / TA and CYA will all be plenty solid to go weekly. Once they prove stable there, go two weeks, then monthy.

foursix said:

their ability to be controlled by iAqualink?

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What does your Color Light Setup page show?

Get a proper sized union, CMP 21063-150-000 or similar for the MPV.

TX Pool said:

I have a Pentair IC40 in my pool. When I started up my pool this summer I cleaned the plates so they should be good and clean for the start of the year. The salt reading that the SWG generates never matches what I get from doing the drop test in my pool. I just tested and got 3000 ppm with the drop test but the unit is measuring 4200. I just added salt yesterday; do I wait another few days and redo the drop test? Is one test more accurate? Which numbers do I use to determine if I should add more salt to the pool?

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If you are referring to the Taylor K1766 as the drop test for salt level then that is the gold standard. Rely on that as the most accurate. however, be aware that each drop is 200ppm so any value could be +/- 200ppm.

Most every SWCG uses some sort of electronics to do a calculated salt level. The goal is to always measure salt level with the Taylor K1766 drop test. So long as your SWCG is happy - not reading a Low Salt or High Salt level then all is good to go.

Mixing of salt chould take 24 hrs of continuous pump runnng. So always wait a day or 2 to verify salt level before adding more.

PoolStored said:

Keep a bag or two, or three on hand for the season. Then you can add immediately.

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Yup, I have three bags in the basement. Thanks.

PoolStored said:

Also, to be clear, the cell does NOT consume salt. After it makes chlorine, is consumed sanitizing, it is returned as salt to the pool.
The test accuracy is +/- 1 drop for each 10 drops. You used 16 drops, so +/- 300ppm. Don't fret the variation.
Salt is only removed when you replace water (splashout, rain/pump down etc.)

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That is all interesting. I thought it used the salt to create chlorine. Great to know. That makes sense now, that you don't have to replace salt that often.

Newdude said:

Let it be until the cell complains. My IC60 works down to 2800 then produces at a reduced output until shutting off at 2600. If you see your test at 2800, then add a couple hundred to beat it to the punch. But otherwise let it be.

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Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks.

Newdude said:

You have to keep dropping it as it rises above 7.5. Each round will drop the TA a bit. Around 70 TA, switch to maintaining high 7s from 7.8 to 8.2. If you catch it at 8.0, drop it to 7.8

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Of course there is more haha. Thought I had the pool right where I wanted it. Thanks. That doesn't seem too hard to do anymore. So, wait until pH goes about 7.5/7/6 and then add more muriatic acid to get down to 7.2 again?

Also, do you think I am good to know just test once a week? I have been getting a lot of practice testing this last week.

This is what you need (Link below).
I'd remove the anode after the filter.
Do not use PVC threaded coupling into the filter like you have. Use proper unions like these.


Replacement MPV.

Obecalp86 said:

Why not rebar stains?

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It could be. There is to be 3 inches of gunite above rebar plus another inch or more of plaster. It is not unheard of to be rebar but I was looking at the obvious things first such as items laying on the plaster.