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Hayward AQL-PS-8 Aqua Logic Remote will not connect to base station if filter is running?

V
1poolman1 said:
Don't be afraid of your system. Do a re-train, you lose nothing. Change the channel the parts use to communicate. It sounds like perhaps electrical noise is interfering with the radio signal. It is amazing how just starting from the beginning can solve so many problems with those systems.
Are there any high-voltage and low-voltage wires running together in the same side of the control panel? That can cause the issue and should never be done.
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All the LV wires run down the left side and all the HV wires come up from the bottom. I couldn't see any places where they are laying next to each although what you suggest about electrical noise seemed plausible. I cleaned up and better organized all the wires in any case, but it didn't help. I did find that at any time the filter is not running then the remote connects just fine (the display shows it connecting just as soon as the filter is shut off) but within a second of the filter being turned back on and running the remote states it cannot connect to the base station. I reseated all the LV wires thinking that maybe when I removed the water temp sensor maybe I knocked a connection loose but no joy. Also, per your suggestion, I changed channel and retrained the remove and it said it was successful. But I could only do this when the filter was not running, then as soon as I turned the filter back on it's the same behavior where it loses connection.
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ajw22
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Hayward AQL-PS-8 Aqua Logic Remote will not connect to base station if filter is running?

ajw22
Post pictures of your equipment pad and the area around the Aqualogic panel.

I think by filter kicking in you mean the pump beginning running.

Sounds like the pump is throwing off RFI and interfering with the remote.

If the pump has a dedicated CB, flip the CB off and see if the remote operates properly.

Try what is described in post #3.
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Pool light replacement?

A
Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I had a light go out a couple of years ago and I'm finally getting around to replacing it. The light is a Hayward Colorlogic SPX0525SLED100. I've seen a lot of people recommending the Spa Electrics retrofit lights so that's what I was going to go with. In my research, it seems like my existing light is 120v and the R10 retrofit is 12v and needs a transformer. Can someone please confirm this? I have attached a picture of the sticker from the light I need to replace.
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CYA test

twoandadog
ajw22 said:
We round up. So if the dot disappears between 60 and 50, call it 60 and move on.

Don't agonize over it. It is good enough to determine your FC range, which is the only reason you test it.
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Thank you! I appreciate this advice because I am always a little concerned about reading all the different tests correctly. My free chlorine was 5. Thank you!!😊
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A
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Hayward AQL-PS-8 Aqua Logic Remote will not connect to base station if filter is running?

V
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

What model pump and heater do you have?


Filter kicking in? The filter is a passive non-electrical device. Please explain.
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It's a TriStar VS 950 pump connected to an AuqaLogic PS-8 system. Not sure of the heater model (it's a Hayward) but we're not having any issues with the heater at all. What I mean about the filter is that when I switch the system from pool to spa, or pool to spillover, or whatever then the filter turns off briefly while the valves are turning. During this time, the GLX-TW-RF-PS-8 remote unit connects to the base station again and the remote controls the system. As soon as the filter starts running, the remote says that it cannot connect to the base station and that the key presses are not received.
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Opened after 3 years - newbie

B
Bought a house with a vinyl pool that had remained close since 2021. Just opened a week back. It was dark green. Threw in a lot of shock (8 gallons pool shock liquid chlorine from job lot) last Sunday. Pump wasn’t working. Kept adding a gallon everyday. Replaced pump with pentair variable speed last Thursday and kept sand filter in circulate (there seemed to be sand in the jets, so don’t want to risk). Threw more shock. Pool appeared to become cloudy blue Friday. After a filter backwash and rinse, Put sand filter in filter mode on Friday evening and threw another couple gallons shock. Yesterday AM, chlorine was around 10, and pool was green. So pool store asked me change the sand. I stopped pump yesterday afternoon to replace sand and restarted this AM. Pump has been running past 8 hours with new sand. I am now at low PH (around 6.2) low chlorine (around 0.8). I hear low ph makes chlorine ineffective. I have a chlorinator but haven’t touched it yet. I haven’t vaccuumed as I can’t see the bottom. Appreciate feedback and steps for week ahead. Still learning the ropes.
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What is the best way to lower water with solid cover on?

Newdude
I experimented and learned to drain the all rain water up top to save the good stuff at the bottom. The bucket makes it drain from the height of the top of the bucket VS the foot or so down bottom of the pump.

With this method I have increased my spring openings from about 1/3 how i left it to about 2/3. It's a chunk of change with 34k gallons to rebalance.
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Weak pump? Build up?

JenF75
I have a strong spa S61001, and the pump doesn’t seem to be running properly. The jets on one side of the hot tub look to be stronger than the jets on the other side of the hot tub. There’s only one pump on this hot tub. Does this look like calcium buildup in the lines? Could this be why the jets don’t seem as strong? We’ve already checked an air lock, but that didn’t help and we changed to a brand new filter also. Thanks!
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Liquid chlorine and vinyl liner

Philly_Mac
Hey all,

I switched from tabs to liquid this year. I trying to be extremely careful with my liner.

Question, would it be safer to just add the liquid chlorine to a 5 gal bucket of water, mix it, then add to the pool? I would assume this would be safer for the vinyl as opposed to pouring over return and still possibly having some sink to the floor?

Thoughts? Does anyone else do this?
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Pentair clean and clear plus leaking near band clamp

K
On the opposite sides they are all hinged. And yes my spring coils are touching each other. But this is the catch, before every time when I tighten those spring nuts with similar torque there always used to be a nice 1/4 - 1/2 inch gap. But now suddenly for the same tightness there is no gap remaining between the two sides that joins with the spring nuts. It's almost like the band clamp expanded suddenly. I have attached photos for all three sides (Two pics for the hinge joint and one where the spring nut assembly goes).
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Boric Acid Test

Newdude
Dragons Den said:
I am curious why you moderated my link to TPTI? I was not aware links aren't allowed?
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I surfed around on it and all the links from the main page had 404 errors and redirected to an unrelated Hasa website. Maybe it shout down and HASA owns them them ?

Anywho I left the name if anyone wished to go surfing for them. (y)


Dragons Den said:
I came to the conclusion that adding boric acid is right for MY pool.
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And we're along for the ride. :)

Are you going to go with the drop testing above or 'close enough is close enough' with the test strips ?
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