So pea soup, 6.5k above ground pool then drained kinda clean

I'm trying to rehab this setup for the summer and beyond. It got out of control during the cold months. It's been drained and mostly shop vacked out of the funky stuff. Pretty much just dumped a gallon of liquid chlorine in an average of 2 inches of water. What would you recommend? Keep draining, move along ( if so what to add first?) Thank you!

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Low Calcium and Calcium Scale

Note the OP is in Thailand.
Try TR pool, 72 ขนอม 13, Khanom District, Nakhon Si Thammarat 80210, Thailand +66 94 215 2595 It's close by...

Also if you get to Koh Samui, I know boat ride...there are several stores that show Calcium available. Might call them?
POOL MART SAMUI

Let us know what you figure out...
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Grateful First-Time Pool Owner

maintain FC ≥ 3 (with occasional dropoffs)
Yeah, too low. I also think your CYA is really low for TX, after SLAM, raise your CYA to 60.
Muriatic acid freaks me out!
Don't be afraid of MA. Be respectful. Wear eye protection, pour slowly in front of a return. If you get some on you, just dunk in the pool. No worries.
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First Season Woes

If you are unhappy with the heat your spa gets from the Rheem heater, talk to your builder. Electric spa heaters are rarely used. They don't have the BTU capacity to heat a spa rapidly like a gas heater, especially in the northern latitudes.

What automation controls do you have?

When you turn on SPA mode the pump should suction from the spa and return to the spa. There should be no flow from the pool suction or returns. I have no diea what the flow is from the marked picture you posted.

In SPILLWAY mode the pump should suction from the pool and return to the spa. I have npo diea how your system does that.

Grateful First-Time Pool Owner

Thanks for the feedback!

Please post a full set of test results.
Whoops -
FC 4.8
CC ≤0.2
pH 7.7
TA 80
CYA 30
CH 575
Temp 79F
CSI 0.32

Any indication your heater is scaled up?
Why do you think you need to descale. Have you seen scale?
I have no reason to suspect heater scaling, aside from some waterline buildup, and the fact that my domestic water fixtures and tankless heaters get mineral scale. The heater's manual mentions annual maintenance and exchanger cleaning; I had assumed that included descaling.

Post pics of the spa leak areas if you want to discuss repairs.
Here you can see the buildup and moisture in the coping and flagstone adjacent to the spillway, along with some mineral buildup at the waterline.

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Get some chlorinated water on the spillover.
As you can see in this more recent pic, neither the growth nor the moisture is quite so bad as when I started. But I don't think I've fully addressed it. All I've done is scrub it, maintain FC ≥ 3 (with occasional dropoffs), and lower the pump speed. (I run it 24x7, but keep it quite low.)
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Can your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not you need to follow the SLAM Process.
I'll probably SLAM again now that we're back in the hot season. I lost track of how quickly I was losing FC and hit 0 in one of my tests.

If you get your CH down and run your CSI negative, it should not scale.
Thanks, I'll target a lower CSI and prioritize a water change.

What chemicals are you concerned about and where are you adding?
Muriatic acid freaks me out!

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First Season Woes

I agree. I feel like someone unboxed things and put it on the pad and they just hooked it up where they sat. Took me awhile to understand most of it. (I am working with them they are just slow to respond, busy opening other pools, etc... and i genuinely want to know these things instead of relying on someone else to fix it - i realize i can't fix everything myself)

Rheem = Spa (checked flow rate on it, it's above the 15 (at 34 gpm)
UltraTemp = Pool - pool heats fine


SPA layout (everything left of actuator [red valve inlet])
I'll focus on this cuz it's really the only problem i'm having

I've marked up the photo let me know if you have other questions:

Pool Flow:
POOL -> MAIN DRAIN/SHALLOW SKIMMER -> POOL PUMP -> SAND FILTER -> Ultra Temp -> SWG -> RETURN TO POOL

Spa Flow:
SPA -> SPA DRAIN -> SPA PUMP -> RHEEM HEATER -> CLEAN AND CLEAR Cartridge Filter -> RETURN TO SPA

ACTUATOR:
Pegged to right unless I have spillway on... then pulls from Deep End Drain (Deep Skimmer/red valve) to help overflow the spa


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Aqualink RS8 indoor panel lit up like a Christmas tree!

Hello. We opened the pool yesterday. I finally went to reset the date and time in the indoor control panel only to find every light lit up, even hidden ones.
I popped of the face and unplugged it, then plugged it back in. No change. Pressed the reset button. No change. The screen says 6700 rev C.
Looking back, at the end of summer in 2023 this same thing happened when we were about to close the pool. I decided I'd deal with it at opening 2024. When we opened the panel was fine. Now the problem has presented itself once again.
Does this mean the board at the outside equipment is bad, and/or the inside panel?
Should I just upgrade to the iaqualink system with the phone app?
The issue is we're listing the house for sale at the end of the month so I'd hate to drop $1,100 at this point!

Thanks in advance!

Ron

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Post SLAM

SWG is still off, of course. I’m just interested to verify my pH is good. It was 7.8 before I started the SLAM. It’s a great guide and well written.
So also, one of the last things I did at the end was to add some DE to my sand filter to help clear up the stubborn cloudiness. This was effective, but I had to repeat it 4 times because not long after adding it, my pressure would climb and my pump would struggle to maintain prime, resulting in needing to backwash to clear it. So the DE is very effective, but just wondering if that seems reasonable.

First Season Woes

Welcome to TFP.

Why aren't you working with your builder to fix your problems? You have some strange plumbing.

What automation controls do you have?

heater not really getting that hot for spa - just cleaned filter (wasn't bad)
I see an UltraTemp HP and a Rheem electric heater on the spa pump. Which heater is being run and what are the two heaters for?

I cannot clearly see your filter and pipes, the HP water in and where it comes from, or where your return pipes are. You need to post more pictures from various angles.

First Season Woes

Had quick training on it, only ran 1 day last year (late install) and now the problems start (at least i hope they're easily solveable).

We have a 40' exquisite pool (integrate spa). Drains, left to right:

spa return (from heater -> filter)
spa main drain (to spa pump -> cartridge filter)
slide (under deep skimmer [red valve])
deep skimmer -> 3 way actuator
main drain -> pool pump
shallow skimmer -> pool pump -> sand filter)
pool return (from swg/heater/sand filter)

It took me awhile to undertand about 90% of this setup. Still confused on a few things.

Current issues:

  1. heater not really getting that hot for spa - just cleaned filter (wasn't bad)
  2. I turn on spa mode and spa overflows
  3. It has a separate spillway mode too (assuming that pulls from deep skimmer based on the actuator actdion when i start up spillway mode)
  4. Spa Air Control Valve is full of water (tried to blow it out but just refills) Moved water below the jets before i blew it out
  5. Unsure if I should have the spa drain open at all unless i'm trying to isolate it for maintenance or something? I read during normal operations, leave spa drain closed.
Any expert insights would be very welcome. It's our first season with this bad boy and kids are anxious already. Thanks ahead of time.

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Grateful First-Time Pool Owner

- Haven't done anything with the heater. It sounds like I should descale annually? Is it worthwhile to aggressively bypass it when not heating? When adding chemicals?
Where are those sounds coming from? Why do you think you need to descale. Have you seen scale?
If you get your CH down and run your CSI negative, it should not scale.
You should bypass when not heating.
Depends on where you are adding chemicals. What chemicals are you concerned about and where are you adding?
- Calcium level is getting high (550+). Utility has pretty hard water, do people hire tankers for refilling? I'm on septic and along a ravine, I figure I just run a hose and let it run down into the trees?
Check the tanker water source...ask them for calcium content, iron content and copper content. Hose would be fine if the are can handle that amount of water.
- Apparent leaks and algae growth around the base of spa spillover waterfall.
Get some chlorinated water on the spillover.
- Spa return jets still bubble a bit while the air blower is off
- Limestone coping is eroding in spots, unsure whether it's worth trying to fill+seal
Can't comment.


Please post a full set of test results.

Grateful First-Time Pool Owner

Welcome to TFP.

- Haven't done anything with the heater. It sounds like I should descale annually?

Nope. We don’t recommend that.

Any indication your heater is scaled up?

Is it worthwhile to aggressively bypass it when not heating?
Bypassing the heater can let the pump be more efficient.


When adding chemicals?

Nope.

Not unless you are doing something unusual like lowering pH below 7.

- Calcium level is getting high (550+). Utility has pretty hard water, do people hire tankers for refilling?

Depends on your options for fill water.

I'm on septic and along a ravine, I figure I just run a hose and let it run down into the trees?

That is fine as long as your jurisdiction has no regulations against it.

- Apparent leaks and algae growth around the base of spa spillover waterfall.

Can your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not you need to follow the SLAM Process.

Post pics of the spa leak areas if you want to discuss repairs.

- Spa return jets still bubble a bit while the air blower is off

That can be normal.

- Limestone coping is eroding in spots, unsure whether it's worth trying to fill+seal
Probably low quality limestone.
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