Latest activity
Suction side plumbing leak advice?
- By Segami
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 3 Replies
Hi All,
I have always had the dreaded air bubble pancake on my pump, but it's been worse lately to the point of my pump basket is only about 3/4 full. I think my union on the suction side it busted and needs to be replaced, I'm just not 100% sure how or where on the plumbing to do so. The union itself isn't completely smooth on the connection surface and the small ridge seems to have hairline fractures - not sure if it goes all the way through the pipe or not. Maybe that rough edge is what was causing the original leaking?
Here's a wider picture. I can here air noise from the union area with the arrow. When I had the pump off while I was cleaning the cartridges for the filter, I noticed that the concrete below the union was wet - ie, water had leaked back out thru that area. I did try to relube (magic lube) and tighten the union, but that's when the air bubbles got worse.
Maybe ya'll have some less destructive ideas to try first (now that I've written this, perhaps I try smoothing that rough/gouged area - with what - sandpaper or a file?). I think if I had to go full replacement, I would have to cut the pipe at the purple line on the right, get a new coupler (which is what I think the star'ed object is), add a new short section of pipe and connect it to a new union.
And in case you couldn't tell, I don't have much experience with plumbing/piping at all - I did put an end cap on a broken sprinkler line once. So maybe it would be good to just get a local pool person to come out?
Thanks in advance for any ideas / help.
I have always had the dreaded air bubble pancake on my pump, but it's been worse lately to the point of my pump basket is only about 3/4 full. I think my union on the suction side it busted and needs to be replaced, I'm just not 100% sure how or where on the plumbing to do so. The union itself isn't completely smooth on the connection surface and the small ridge seems to have hairline fractures - not sure if it goes all the way through the pipe or not. Maybe that rough edge is what was causing the original leaking?
Here's a wider picture. I can here air noise from the union area with the arrow. When I had the pump off while I was cleaning the cartridges for the filter, I noticed that the concrete below the union was wet - ie, water had leaked back out thru that area. I did try to relube (magic lube) and tighten the union, but that's when the air bubbles got worse.
Maybe ya'll have some less destructive ideas to try first (now that I've written this, perhaps I try smoothing that rough/gouged area - with what - sandpaper or a file?). I think if I had to go full replacement, I would have to cut the pipe at the purple line on the right, get a new coupler (which is what I think the star'ed object is), add a new short section of pipe and connect it to a new union.
And in case you couldn't tell, I don't have much experience with plumbing/piping at all - I did put an end cap on a broken sprinkler line once. So maybe it would be good to just get a local pool person to come out?
Thanks in advance for any ideas / help.
18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ
- By Brian.O1484
- Above Ground Pools
- 194 Replies
Fair enough for keeping it in this thread! I know on some forums you’ll get the “this doesn’t belong under this topic” argument so just wanted to put that out there.
With the CYA and staining is that somthing that’ll happen in a day if the granules stay on the bottom? I stored up with the pump discharge a bit then I swept the bottom a bit but there are still granules, no piles like the picture I posted.
I did move the CYA bag in front of the discharge from the submersible pump, little surprised after a week it’s still dissolving, which was the reason I screwed with the bag…and spilled some granules
The test kit is a little intimidating at first glance when I opened the box but isn’t bad once ya read a bit and a used some YouTube lol. Much appreciated as usual!!
With the CYA and staining is that somthing that’ll happen in a day if the granules stay on the bottom? I stored up with the pump discharge a bit then I swept the bottom a bit but there are still granules, no piles like the picture I posted.
I did move the CYA bag in front of the discharge from the submersible pump, little surprised after a week it’s still dissolving, which was the reason I screwed with the bag…and spilled some granules
The test kit is a little intimidating at first glance when I opened the box but isn’t bad once ya read a bit and a used some YouTube lol. Much appreciated as usual!!
Reno, advice needed
- By starr1005
- Under Construction
- 14 Replies
Ok, he came back with the equipment.No. Pucks add CYA, they are not sustainable. You either go (LC) OR (SWG), or (use pucks until your CYA get to 60, convert to liquid, allow CYA to drop to 30, go back to pucks) or (use pucks until your CYA gets to 60, drain and replace enough to get to 30, then continue with pucks.
Read this:
SWG How It Works - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Correct. The VSP has it's own clock and configurable programming and should be wired directly to GFCI breaker.
In TX? Pfffffft...no question. Get one that is rated for 2x your pool volume.
Intelliflo3 1.5 hp and pentair clean and clear plus 520 sq ft. Is that a good size for 18k?
Also had him quote a salt generator, he quoted the pentair one with a IC40 cell.
Alkalinity still high - 2 years!
- By Newdude
- Testing and Balancing Your Water
- 13 Replies
And one heckuva OCLT. You lost 1ppm a *month* James coined it the OWCLT for over winter chlorine loss test. 
18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ
- By Newdude
- Above Ground Pools
- 194 Replies
This is the 'all things your pool build' thread. Balancing the water and learning as you go applies to that, and is something everyone else building who reads this in the future will have to go through also. Teaching you preemptively helps teach them.
Forget any and all of anything that isnt
PoolMath
Cyanuric *acid* ????? What could go wrong ? (Lots could go wrong. Always brush any spillage until it dissolves. Really try not to spill in the first place).
Switch to 10ml samples and each drop is 0.5 FC. There's no need for 0.2 resolution. A 2.2 and 2.5 equally suck and put you on the same bullet train to SwampVille.
Sweet. Something would be horribly wrong if it was in your fill water. Or any water besides a pool that it was specifically added to for that matter.
Let em ride. These 3 won't ever really do or need much with vinyl and pool friendly fill water.
It clumps on the bottom so besides being 4X as expensive its impossible to get a partial dose. With the full jug you can rinse and rinse and rinse it at least.
So stick with granual CYA. The UV demand is still low and you have time to take your time. Count it as added once its soaking. You will quickly see how many FC you lose per day, then you start to forsee it happening tomorrow.
As it warms up. You'll lose a little more each day and dose a bit higher to match it. Steer clear of minimum by the time you test/add next. If you need 5ppm in July, add 5 and a few insurance glugs. 2 may last a week in Septempber/October once it cools down. Know where min is, and what you need at that point in the season to avoid it. Thats it. Its the easiest thing ever under those parameters.
