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Odd behavior at low speed

S
So after answering a number of leak questions, I now have my own! More academic than anything, but....

At low speed (1100 rpm, or even 1350 rpm) I get expected return out of all 3 jets. SWCG flow switch works, and I get CL. Heater has been totally bypassed (hard plumbed!) while I wait for a new to come. When I open the filter air bleed to see if there is any air - I get suction into the filter, instead of water out! I do get a moderate pump bubble after 20 hours running at that low speed, so maybe a pretty small air leak I haven't yet found. I would think with the flow I have, it would be good enough to overcome the head height of the filter? Bumping up to 1650 (my next available rpm) and all is as would be expected.

New heater comes next week, so I will likely have to run my minimum higher, so this will all be moot. But am intrigued as to what may be going on.

Per an earlier thread, have pulled and inspected the air valve, along with replacing the two Pentair diverters that were causing my prior big suction air leaks. So it seems fixed there. No leak down at all after several hours with the system off.

Thoughts?
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Nautilus supreme dolphin

N
derek_from_maytronics said:
It sounds like you’re dealing with a communication issue between the robot and the control box—which usually means there’s a problem with the data connection, especially if you’re using a Wi-Fi–enabled (IoT) model like the Nautilus CC Supreme.

All app-compatible Dolphin models use a three-wire blue cable:
  • Two wires handle power,
  • The third wire handles data communication (like manual drive, changing modes, etc.).
That’s why you might still be able to power it on from the app, but things like manual drive or mode changes fail—those need that third wire to work properly.

To reset everything:

Step-by-step reset:
  1. Unplug your Wi-Fi router, wait 15 seconds, and plug it back in.
  2. Unplug the Power Supply from the outlet, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in.
  3. Disconnect the blue cable from the Power Supply, power it on, then wait 30 seconds and reconnect the blue cable—make sure it’s seated properly and the cable isn’t damaged.
  4. Delete and reinstall the MyDolphin™ Plus app. When prompted, make sure to allow all permissions (especially Location and Bluetooth).
  5. Confirm your Wi-Fi is on a 2.4GHz network (Dolphin robots don’t support 5GHz).
If that doesn’t resolve it, there may be a physical issue with the cable or connector—especially the data wire—and support can help test that further.
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Derek,

Thanks for your response, I will attempt to reset everything using your instructions.

Quick question for you: with these fancy IoT models...are you still able to use them without the smart features and/or app?? I had a CC plus non wifi before the supreme and just pressed a button on the Power Supply. In other words, with the Supreme should I be able to just press the button on the Power Supply and have it start without even opening/using the app??
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smaller circular solar covers instead of one large

VinnyinNJ
I have a neighbor that cut his cover in half so it would be a semi circle and weigh about 1/2 the weight. My wife talks about doing this to our cover but we haven't done it yet in all the years of pool ownership.

Since we don't actually swim in our pool we tend to pull the cover back and loop it a little over the top rails to keep it from floating around. Floating around with beverages is easy when we do this. If and when we have people over then we just remove it.
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Trouble With FC Test TF-Pro Kit

M
I think we broke through the ammonia finally. Here’s what it took:

5/11 11am 2lbs of cal hypo 1FC
5/12 3pm 3lbs of cal hypo 1FC
5/12 5pm 3lbs of cal hypo 1FC
5/12 7pm 3lbs of cal hypo 1FC
5/12 10pm 13lbs of cal hypo (I know not great but my calcium was low still)

In the morning FC was at 1. Felt defeated.

Then started reading more on TFP and asked for help and started using liquid chlorine 12.5%:

Today:
1pm - 2 gal 1FC
115pm - 2 gal 1FC
150pm - 2 gal 1FC
235pm - 3 gal 1FC
330pm - 3 gal 1FC
4pm - 3.5 gal finally hit 4.5 FC after this.
430pm - 2 gal 9FC and 1CC!
5pm - 2 cups!


Will continue with a SLAM until OCLT.

Thank you everyone for your help!
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Water is still cloudy after multiple treatments

KBreuer15
PoolStored said:
Do it with 5mL sample for this test for now, each drop is 1FC.
When we get your pool down to normal levels, then use the 10mL sample from there.
Try it with 5mL sample.
Post a full set of results, FC CC pH, TA CH CYA and Salt
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Ok, the moment we have been waiting for:

FC - 55 (5 ml - 55 drops)
CC - 0
ph - 7.8 (Cl Br was too high and had floaties)
TA - 170
CH - 500
CYA - 40
Salt - 3200
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Light blue cloudy water

B

Mdragger88 said:
Follow the
SLAM Process
You will need an fas dpd test kit for that. Your k2005 is missing this.
tftestkits.net

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net
Or Taylor https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...p9qWkZ-NAxW0SzABHd5VAB8Qwg8oAHoECAYQDQ&adurl=
If your cya is reading over 90 then you need to do the diluted test (see step 8)
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
To confirm your true cya so you can replace the appropriate amount of water as doing the slam process with cya over 70 or so takes alot of chlorine which isn’t cheap. Ideally it would be better at 30-50ppm for slam.
See —> FC/CYA Levels

Until you have that fas dpd kit and can slam properly just add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day to keep things from getting worse.
Use PoolMath to calculate
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Good evening guys, I backwashed and rinse the sand filter and then added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. I retested just now and now my cya level is below what my kit lowest results show. So the cya is 20ppm or below. I have ordered the FAS/DPD kit addition and will arrive tomorrow. My free chlorine level raised to 10-20ppm and my total chlorine was the same at 10-20ppm. All other test results are within the ideal range/goals to reach. I am attaching a picture of the pool water. It is not as cloudy as it was as I can see my brush almost to bottom of pool. Is my levels ready for the slam yet once I receive my FAS/DPD kit tomorrow? Or what should I do now? I really appreciate the help guys
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Light blue cloudy water

B
Good evening guys, I backwashed and rinse the sand filter and then added 1 gallon of liquid chlorine this morning. I retested just now and now my cya level is below what my kit lowest results show. So the cya is 20ppm or below. I have ordered the FAS/DPD kit addition and will arrive tomorrow. My free chlorine level raised to 10-20ppm and my total chlorine was the same at 10-20ppm. All other test results are within the ideal range/goals to reach. I am attaching a picture of the pool water. It is not as cloudy as it was as I can see my brush almost to bottom of pool. Is my levels ready for the slam yet once I receive my FAS/DPD kit tomorrow? Or what should I do now? I really appreciate the help guys
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cloudy water - new pool owner - help please!

PoolStored
lemanc said:
flocculant
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No Floc!

Continue to SLAM. Assume your CYA is 50. Taylor is more accurate. Stop going to the store. We got you!
There are no times on these, so I can't tell if you passed OCLT. None of them were passes day to day except 11 to 12th. Some nights were big gains.
One of your issues is that you are not testing and replacing often enough. Should be 3-4x per day or more, even up to every two hours.
Sand filters take the longest to clear.
If you can see a body at the bottom of the deep end, then it is clear enough to swim.

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
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So you are new to testing

PoolingInKC
Chiming in as well, I found TPF 10 years ago and I did not know one thing about water chemistry. Our PB never told us about CYA or pretty much anything but I digress. After I stumbled onto this site, bought my first TF-100 kit and went through all of the ABC's/Pool School, etc sections, I learned how to take care of my own pool/water. I can proudly say that following the TFP method, I've not had so much as a hint of nastiness in my water in those 10 years. So for the newbies........READ........Ask Questions........listen to what the people on this forum tell you and NOT what the profit motivated pool stores say or suggest you buy.

TFP is the ONLY WAY.
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New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

K
In case anyone is looking for alternatives to Marina, Leslie's currently has the 614iQ on sale for $749.25 w/free shipping, or pickup in store.

If you get tagged for sales tax, it's basically the same price as Marina.

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cloudy water - new pool owner - help please!

L
Hi, I appreciate this site and the help it's been to me. I'm a 2nd year pool owner. The first season was great and my water was clear throughout the season. This year, I missed that my FC dropped several days after open. The water turned a little cloudy and left me with ~5' of visibility.

After some reading, I attempted to SLAM about 10 days ago. I passed the CC and OCLT but the water has remained cloudy. I've attached my water test results. I wondered if my filter was to blame so I attempted to deep clean the sand but ended up needing to remove all of it, and I replaced it with glass media. The PSI reading on my filter has been constant since replacing the sand - around 13 PSI. It goes to 0 when I shut the filter off. I run my pump/filter 24/7. I've used some clarifier but that hasn't seem to have much of an effect. Today, the water is still cloudy but I am able to see the drain that is at a 9' depth. The store I have used is a bit shocked that the water is still cloudy given my chlorine levels. They are advising to try a flocculant once my FC drops. I've gathered from the forum that most would advise against trying that.

I think I've eliminated the possibility of having a filter issue. So, I think I either need to 1) be patient for my filter to work more or 2) do SLAM again and for longer, maybe assuming my CYA is 60. But before taking another step I thought I'd reach out for guidance from the community in case a more experienced pool owner spots something in my test results that I'm missing??? Also, when the SLAM instructions say you can swim if you can see the bottom of the pool, does that mean clearly? I can see my drain at the bottom but the water is still cloudy, so am wondering if the water is safe to swim in in the meantime. I was hoping to use the pool on Saturday for a b-day party.

Thank you!
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Pool Water Conservation

R
onBalance said:
Calcium Hardness – Another way of reducing calcium hardness in pool water (in addition to nanofiltration) is to precipitate the calcium by “dumping” sodium carbonate
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Why is this done in the pool, rather than using a seperate small 2nd hand above ground pool as a processing tank? Then use a fine drinking water filter to transfer each batch back into main pool. Or use an adaptive to get the particle to drop to bottom of the processing tank.
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