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ajw22 · 2025-05-03T17:06:45-0400

Pools never get easier and lower cost to maintain as they age.

Your realtors gave you the best advice.

ba67 said:
A local realtor says that removing the pool won’t lower the value of our home much since the pool is 20+ years old and the swim season Is only 5-6 months long here.

ba67 said:
in 5-10 years when we go to sell the home, she thinks it would be a waste of money to renovate it since older pools don't seem to add much value to homes here.

PoolStored · 2025-05-03T17:03:41-0400

Welcome to TFP!!

Great place to start-->Pool Care Basics

Webster · 2025-05-03T17:03:29-0400

First summer in the new house back in ‘21.

ajw22 · 2025-05-03T16:59:19-0400

That can be a lot of different things. Igniter; gas pressure; gas valve; flame sensor.

If you have a flame sensor problem, you will often feel a puff of heat as it ignites and then since it does not sense the flame the heater shuts down.

https://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/-/media/072F82733ED447A0BCAB6AFB9D4E1EF0.ashx

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Jandy LXI Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

sub150 · 2025-05-03T16:59:18-0400

Not too often. I imagine us utilizing it more when the kid/s can swim but then we won’t need the cover. I’d see us needing this for 3-5 years.

After that the deck/tile/plaster will be re-done anyway most likely so don’t mind drilling into the decking.

PoolStored · 2025-05-03T16:58:45-0400

Tell them you want an MPV (multi port valve), and that you want the line from the pump to the filter to have high-temp unions on both ends (Pump and MPV), and that you want a high-temp union on the MPV line to the heater. Heater end already has unions.

Dirk · 2025-05-03T16:57:19-0400

LisaBgame said:
Oh I wish I had all of everyone’s knowledge and skills that have responded! I think I sadly will have to call the pool repair people $$$ .

I really do appreciate the suggestions offered and all your help.

Pool plumbing repairs are like SCUBA diving. Knowing when not to attempt it is the most important skill of all!

gcavanaugh · 2025-05-03T16:54:05-0400

Good afternoon. I'm in my 3rd season as a self-maintained pool owner near Orlando, FL. I moved here from the Northeast US (Maine) where owning a pool was only a dream, but now it's our reality! We have a 30K gallon in-ground plaster pool, 10' deep in the deep end. I got the basics of pool maintenance down pretty fast, but I'm still learning the nuances of pool ownership. For the warm season (April-October) like to take a dip every night before dinner, and since my partner moved in with me, we're swimming together as a family. I'm also a licensed scuba instructor and someday I hope to teach small classes in my pool, but that's not on the radar just yet.

LisaBgame · 2025-05-03T16:52:49-0400

Oh I wish I had all of everyone’s knowledge and skills that have responded! I think I sadly will have to call the pool repair people $$$

.

I really do appreciate the suggestions offered and all your help.

PoolStored · 2025-05-03T16:52:46-0400

KatyPoolOwner said:
I replaced the cover and flapper.

Did you replace the cover o-ring?

PoolStored · 2025-05-03T16:51:54-0400

Pentair and Hayward to not play nice together. You will have to use multiple relays and wire it a special way to use the programs on the VST. And your relays are already being used.
You have it working now, I'd leave my pump and run it 24/7 at low speed. That's the way I, and many other here do.
Running 24/7 will give you freeze protection.
Just turn the output% on the cell to match your needs and run pump 24/7 at low speed.
Good to go.

DonFant · 2025-05-03T16:50:54-0400

ajw22 said:
Are they in separate conduits or not?

One conduit, two separately wrapped wires. One of them is a big one for the electric, and the other is a wrapped copper wire.

DonFant · 2025-05-03T16:49:03-0400

Bperry said:
For reference, the bond wire isn’t supposed to be wrapped. The purpose of it is to be in electrical contact with the dirt and the surrounding environment and be a specific depth below ground. You can leave the existing wire in the conduit and use it for pipe tracing later down the line if you leave one end accessible.

I believe that my electrician ran the additional wire through the conduit since we were (digging a trench) laying conduit / electric to my building. And, I believe that he is going to check with the building inspector to see if he can use it, if not, not much of a loss, but if so, then it's there. He is well aware of using bare Copper wire to create the bond to all of the equipment and pool. I really don't know, but between him and the County Inspector, they should figure it out. Thank you for your help.

gcavanaugh · 2025-05-03T16:47:28-0400

I'm starting my 3rd season as a pool owner in Central FL. I self-maintain my pool. We opened a little late because my partner moved in with me in April and we didn't really have time for pool stuff. Also, the nights were unusually cold this spring, so the pool temps were chilly. Water temps are finally up into the 80's, so we're opening this weekend and plan to take a dip tonight

I have a 30k gallon in-ground plastered pool. The pump is working fine, and I replaced the Pentair filter last weekend. I maintained minimum chems in my pool through the winter, and it never once went green on me, so opening has been pretty painless. Also, my southerly neighbor finally chopped the old dying oak tree that was shedding leaves and acorns and shading my pool (thank god!)

Last fall, I invested in a TFP testing kit with the thinking that this spring I would get serious about my chemistry. Here are my numbers as of this morning:
Free Chlorine: 4 ppm
Combined Chlorinates: 0
Calcium Hardness: 250
Total Alkalinity: 20
CYA: 70
pH: 6.8

I understand that my TA and pH are low. I've added 3 pounds of baking soda this afternoon, and I've got 25 pounds more coming by delivery tonight. The Pool Math app recommends 22 pounds to raise my TA, which I plan to add slowly over a couple of days in batches until I achieve the desired reading. I previously read on this site not to adjust pH until the other factors are stabilized.

Here's my question - I'm having a persistent problem where there is chalky residue on the sides and walls of my pool that turn the water cloudy when brushed. This started in my 2nd season and continues to this day. Could the low TA be leaching out the plaster and causing this chalky stuff?

I also realize my CYA is a little high. I expect it to drop as the Central FL rainy season starts and I need to start routinely pumping water out of the pool. This came from a rookie mistake in my first year of over-using stabilized chlorine pucks. It's slowly been declining and I expect it to be back in the normal range this season.

Thanks for reading.

larrybbaker · 2025-05-03T16:46:02-0400

Thanks everyone. I think I figured it out. It appears if you set the same start and end time it turns off the timer completely and displays “off” so pump doesn’t run. Also the minimum increment seems to be 15 minutes so live with a 15 gap or set overlapping timers.

ajw22 · 2025-05-03T16:44:20-0400

Philly_Mac said:
Thanks I appreciate the help as always

Glad we could help.

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PoolStored · 2025-05-03T16:43:32-0400

@HermanTX He has a taylor kit for salt on the way.

@Xiaosong83 Can you show me your pump schedule?

You need to raise FC now with liquid chlorine. Get it to range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

If you are running your pump 24/7, turn on the chlorinator to 25%...that should give you 3FC per day.

Then adjust your SWG so that your FC stays in range for your CYA in the FC/CYA tool/chart.

Lake Placid · 2025-05-03T16:42:29-0400

Well I’d chime in if it were mine and get rid of the push pull altogether….MPV is the only way to go….but that’s just me

ajw22 · 2025-05-03T16:39:08-0400

Post a picture of the check valve and where the water is dripping.

You can run your pump if the leak is not very big.

Philly_Mac · 2025-05-03T16:38:10-0400

Philly_Mac said:
Yup one is for skimmer and one is vacuum port. I don’t even use that Port, I got a cover with holes on it so water can get pulled in but no debris

ajw22 said:
Then figure out which is the skimmer pipe and put OFF over the vacuum pipe. That should be your normal handle position.

Label the pipes when you figure it out.

Thanks I appreciate the help as always

ajw22 · 2025-05-03T16:37:02-0400

Philly_Mac said:
Yup one is for skimmer and one is vacuum port. I don’t even use that Port, I got a cover for it

Then figure out which is the skimmer pipe and put OFF over the vacuum pipe. That should be your normal handle position.

Label the pipes when you figure it out.

Philly_Mac · 2025-05-03T16:36:55-0400

ajw22 said:
Go see that you have suction and water going into both the skimmer and vacuum port.

Then slowly turn the handle for the OFF end to go over the left or right pipe. Listen if the pump begins starving for water and makes noises. If it does stop. If the pump is happy put OFF on one of the pipes.

Then go look at the skimmer and vacuum port and see which is not taking water in.

Then do the same test on the other pipe.

Yup one is for skimmer and one is vacuum port. Just tested it. Funny I don’t even use that Port, I got a cover with holes on it so water can get pulled in but no debris

HermanTX · 2025-05-03T16:35:13-0400

Xiaosong83 said:
I originally had the fusion2 that wasn’t being used with the tablet dispenser and had the PB switch it to a fusion2 soft with the power center that is labeled Aquapure, ended up being about $2600 for the install.

I had them hold off on installing the mineral cartridge so the blank cap is still in place.

Will post some pictures from my phone in minute. I turned off the UV sanitizer and the ozone generator isn’t working properly right now.

Leave the mineral cartridge out.
How are you testing salt level? You stated you do not have a Taylor kit to test salt. Normally the AquaPure sensor is within 500ppm of the actual salt level (when using a Taylor test kit - my experience) - so to be off by 1000ppm tells me however you tested salt level may be off.

Philly_Mac · 2025-05-03T16:34:32-0400

ajw22 said:
Go see that you have suction and water going into both the skimmer and vacuum port.

Then slowly turn the handle for the OFF end to go over the left or right pipe. Listen if the pump begins starving for water and makes noises. If it does stop. If the pump is happy put OFF on one of the pipes.

Then go look at the skimmer and vacuum port and see which is not taking water in.

Then do the same test on the other pipe.

Yup one is for skimmer and one is vacuum port. I don’t even use that Port, I got a cover for it

Philly_Mac · 2025-05-03T16:34:18-0400

KatyPoolOwner · 2025-05-03T16:32:06-0400

The flapper on my Hayward check valve was worn. I replaced the cover and flapper. Now there is a bit of water dripping from the bottom. Did I do something wrong? Can I still run my pump? Should I have a professional take a look?

PoolStored · 2025-05-03T16:30:54-0400

How often do you use the pool? A mesh cover is a lot of work to get on and off. They are typically used for winterization purposes.

There are really good temporary pool fences. Search google for "Temporary Pool Fence"

ajw22 · 2025-05-03T16:29:35-0400

Philly_Mac said:
Thanks so much…. I don’t know why I kept missing the stop piece on the handle so I have a skimmer, and I have Another port on the wall by the skimmer that sucks in water also, I always assumed it was for a vaccum. Just bought the house two years ago

Go see that you have suction and water going into both the skimmer and vacuum port.

Then slowly turn the handle for the OFF end to go over the left or right pipe. Listen if the pump begins starving for water and makes noises. If it does stop. If the pump is happy put OFF on one of the pipes.

Then go look at the skimmer and vacuum port and see which is not taking water in.

Then do the same test on the other pipe.

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