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Is The Mainstream Pool Industry Finally Coming Around?

oledan
I've come to trust TFP's methods without question. That said, I try to learn all I can about pool care & Chemistry from various sources and I know to disregard what goes against the TFP way! I know the "mainstream" pool care industry says I need to have 1-4ppm FC and 7.4-7.6ph etc......

Well today while listing to a pool care podcast on YouTube (Newdude says I'm a retired guy who needs a hobby but my argument would the THIS is it) ;)I finally saw something that agreed with TFP Protocall's! At least on the FC/CYA ratio he did, however, on other ideas he strayed a bit.

My point in all this is perhaps the industry is no longer going to think we're crazy and they realize they might lose their foothold with their outdated chemistry ranges?

I took a pic of the podcast if anyone is interested in giving it a look/listen.
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oledan
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Hey y’all! New here!

P
Hi everyone!
I hope y’all are resting and enjoying your pool this memorial day.
I just downloaded the TFP app and my Taylor K2006 just arrived in the mail. Can’t wait to try it out.
I’ve been the lucky but exhausted owner of a 26,000 gallon gunite pool. It’s been difficult. We’ve been taking samples to the store and trying to follow what they tell us. Hopefully now we’re on the golden path.4cf997dc-e403-4a20-9e8f-d93ec74e15e8.jpeg
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ajw22
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Water Looks Perfect, but Chlorine dropping quickly

P
Bperry said:
Can you explain what “just above 20” and “around 19” means? The test gives actual numbers, there’s no need to guess at them. 😉
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20.5 and 19 lol. I used those terms because I'm using the 10 ml sample so counting drops as .5 per drop. So I felt like it's not for sure 20.5 when the larger sample would've been a slightly more accurate reading. I've just already used up half of my brand new r-0871 dropper from the test kit throughout this SLAM process.
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Water Looks Perfect, but Chlorine dropping quickly

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Pool Guy Jim said:
So I tested after sunset and it was at just above 20 ppm and then this morning around 5:40 am and it was around 19 ppm.

I then tested again at 8:15 am and it was still at around 18.5 ppm.

That was looking good so I checked for combined chlorine and that was at 0 I assume because the water didn't turn pink after adding 5 drops of r-0003.

So it looks like I met the criteria for completing the SLAM process. But is it unusual to see no drop from 5:40 am to 8:15 am? That surprised me.
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Can you explain what “just above 20” and “around 19” means? The test gives actual numbers, there’s no need to guess at them. 😉
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Featured Iron Removal Experiment

Mdragger88
GaryParr said:
Good call. I could just keep that reaction chamber in the pool itself, but I'm curious to see how well this cheap screw lid thing holds up to being a pressure vessel, so it's now taking up residence in a plastic tub.
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If you float it in the pool,
Use of those little mesh laundry bags and encase it so it can’t be hurled out onto the floor of the pool if the container breaks apart.
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Featured High FC demand and #TeamRunHot.

Mdragger88
I call my minimum 10% of my cya - although I rarely run that low. A gaggle of teens or a summer pop up tornado can drop the fc quick so I prefer to be prepared.
In the heat of summer I aim for 10ppm or a little more with my cya about 80.
My ph stays pretty solid so going higher than that for a bit is no biggie.
My pool slammed itself between the swcg and the cover the past two seasons upon opening- thats what I call lazy 🤣🤣
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Water feature on but no flow out of return jets

D
I noticed that the water feature height was really low when it should be high, so I decided to do some checking. There was no flow from the return jets. I thought maybe our pool technician had selected an incorrect program, so I cycled the power. The motor started, but during the priming at the beginning, it seemed like it was running at a low rpm based on the noise and from what I could see through the strainer lid. My guesses are that it is due to a blockage or air leak somewhere. What are your thoughts on where I should start and the order?
1. Replace strainer lid o-ring
2. Check pool filter cartridge for debris or damage. Just replaced in October of last year.
3. Replace body o-ring on filter
4. Check impeller. I think I will have to disconnect and uninstall the entire motor for this, so I figured it would be last.

Does anyone know of anything else I should add to the list or if I should change the order? It is unlikely, but I also need to rule out that someone did not unscrew the cover and reset the schedule set pins. I also need to confirm that the pump turns off at the right time to make sure that it isn't a motor drive issue.

Thanks!
-Lisa
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Help with Pentair Mastertemp debug

ajw22
If the bolts are rusting you have a leak in the manifold. Remove and replace the manifold with new bolts while you can. It is a $500 repair that will save a $5,000 heater.

Read…

Pool Opening Spring 2025 - Removing the Leaking Heater Manifold

Opened my pool today. Some observations: Pool opened up pretty clean. Water temperature was 49F. Leaves all vacuumed up. See pics below. I added borates the end of last year and did not see any winter scaling. pH tested way high and added 40 oz of MA to begin working it down. I had 4 gallons...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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