Ok I have chlorine. Need to deal with making heater work in isolation till I figure this out.

If pump works fine in service mode, my head says it’s Intelliconnect.

Welcome to TFP.

Fluidra/Zodiac/Jsndy acquired CMP.

Jandy Hydrocool lights look like CMP Brilliant Wonder lights. See if they will work as a replacement.

What RPM are you running your VS pump at?

Does your sand filter have a push/push backwash valve or a multiport backwash valve?

• Backwash your filter until the backwash water runs clear (or relatively clear since you are in a SLAM and the water is still cloudy)
• Place backwash valve back in filter position
• Run pump at 3000 or higher RPM
• Note filter pressure
• When filter pressure rises 20%-25% above clean pressure at the same RPM (3000 or higher), it's time to backwash again

While in the SLAM, filter pressure can rise quickly and you will need to backwash more often.

The air shouldn't be affecting the need to backwash.

Take a double dose of P.O.P (Pool Owner Patience).
It took some time for your pool to get to the point of needing to SLAM.
It will take some time for you to complete the SLAM as well. A sand filter probably takes the longest to clear a pool.

SarahObrem said:

probably 2” of rain. So it’s getting diluted

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2 inches of water in a pool your size is equal to about 800 gallons, or 3% of your total pool volume.

It's not going to be measurable.

welcome to the forum. Cal Hypo adds a lot of calcium to your pool water. That can be troublesome particularly in the Southwest where your fill water may already be high in calcium.

Welcome to TFP!

Not do derail the topic, but I'm curious how are you managing your CH levels? Most people in Arizona have trouble keeping their CH down when using liquid chlorine or an SWG, it must really rise fast if you're adding calcium every day.

Pool is clearing every day and sometimes by the hour! I've been in full blown SLAM mode since Sunday and babysitting the DE filter!

Today’s photo. It has been pouring all day, probably 2” of rain. So it’s getting diluted.
Filters just arrived. Will try to swap those out before it gets dark so they can run overnight.

Hey Cilo and Welcome !!!!

To see the other options, including several strengths of cal-hypo, scroll down the list.

Summer time is the least likely time to be lazy with pool maintenance

Update your signature with your SWG and any other info that has changed

Small water exchanges will do little to lower your CYA level. Since cyanuric acid is not present in tap water, the percentage of water exchanged is equal to the reduction in CYA. You should do a near complete water exchange. With a vinyl pool, you want to leave about 18 in of depth in the shallow end. Refill and test. You can make adjustments from there.

Your target CYA should be based upon your means of chlorination in the future. SWG pools run higher CYA levels than regular liquid chlorine pools.

sagosto said:

Do I need to disconnect power to everything if I simply want to disconnect the communication lines at IntelliConnect for pump and IC?

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You should turn off power to the devices before removing wires.

If you accidentally short the wires while removing them you can damage the comm chip.

The landscape contractor came by today. The owner of the company also came by. He's been doing landscaping around pools for 40 years.

First thing he told me after I described my situation was "I had the same problem with my pool I built in 2007. I was having minor shocks. I replaced my pool deck and put down a new bond wire and my problem disappeared." He didn't replace the deck because of the tingles though. He said his deck was in bad shape so he replaced it but fixed the bond wire too.

He took some measurements and called the guy he uses for vinyl pools. I showed him the picture above where my bond wire was during construction. I waited on him to finish talking to his pool guy.

After he talked to his pool guy, he told me he could replace the deck and have his pool guy put down the new bond wire. BUT, his pool guy couldn't promise that would solve my problem. He said he always needed to say that because it could be an issue with the utility provider or some unforeseen issue with electricity in the area. I totally understand him being careful and making no promises. Last thing was - if it's a problem with the bond wire, this should fix everything just fine. I actually respected them for saying it that way.

I told him my utility provider had sent a guy out here twice and they had checked everything on their end and said it was perfectly within their specs (same thing others have said on here).

He also mentioned if my handrail area was the only issue, he could replace the metal rails with the non-metal ones. But that would be up to me- much cheaper and might solve me having an issue with it, but obviously not totally solve the underlying issue.

The contractor told me it was all up to me. He didn't want to over-promise. He's going to have his guy that was with him write up a few quotes for me and he'll get back to me.

obviously said just replacing my concrete would be the cheapest route instead of putting pavers down. He said he thought my concrete was installed well and he said he hated I was having to deal with this. Very nice guy.

Lake Placid said:

Neptune Benson are the filters you want to look into for that size pool. They are not inexpensive, but Daisy chaining a bunch of residential filters together is not the answer.

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mas985 said:

Is that bond wire connected to any other equipment, heater or light or breaker box?

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I just went outside again, (bond wire connected to lug on pump), and I stretched by spare bare cooper wire out and wrapped one end around one handrail of my pool ladder, and ran it over and wrapped it around one of my handrails (at bottom in picture above) and then over to the pool pump lug.

The measurement I got with my multi-meter was around .031. (without that extra copper bare wire wrapped around like I just described), the same measurement is near 3 volts.

I drained a few inches of water today and am in the process of adding fresh water. How long should I wait for the water to mix before I pull a sample to test?

mas985 said:

Is that bond wire connected to any other equipment, heater or light or breaker box?

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no. The bond wire that runs around the pool and runs out under the concrete deck, over to the pool pump about 15-20 feet away. It's only connected to the pool pump lug.

The electrical stuff that is there to run the pool pump, etc isn't connected to the bond wire at all.

ajw22 said:

Clean whatever comes off using a stiff wire brush.

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Done! Motor reinstalled, pump is running. I'll take it.

PoolStored said:

5-15 seconds, maybe a bit more, usually works pretty quickly.

See above

Yes. The pump will suck it in.

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Can you answer one more question kinda related? I’m doing the slam and I am at a point where water is blue and cloudy. My flow out of jets goes down very fast. The pressue gauge is not much higher than normal. I backwash and the water is not real bad out of the pipe. I’m probably having to backwash every 6 hours because the jets lose water. This normally does not happen. Could the air be effecting that too? The reason I ask is I haven’t made much progress on the water clarity the last two days. Made very fast initial progress that I’ve slowed to a crawl. Thanks for your help and I hope this makes sense.

stacy78132 said:

I attached a screenshot with my numbers from yesterday. Yesterday I was told to add 1 gal and 3 cups of 10% liquid chlorine so I added that last night. Since it's was the 1st time I used liquid I t3sted only the chlorine and pH today. Free chlorine was 5 and combined chlorine was 0. My pH was 7.8. Yes cya is around 125...it was much higher about 6 months ago but I did drain some water several times. For the last 6 months or so I've be researching all kinds of stuff on here so that's why I'm finally deciding to switch over to liquid chlorine. I just paid for the app the other day so I could maintain my logs on here. Also I had phosphates at over 4000 but thanks to everything I read on here, I treated with orenda and now they are normal! Anyway, I just really want to make sure that having free chlorine at 13 is okay since it seems so high. Thanks again for your help.

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Good call on the poolmath
You can toggle on “sharing” in the poolmath settings and we will be able to see your logs through a link without you having to post them. (Click my avatar to see mine)

Its safe to have fc anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya.

• "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
• "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
• "SLAM FC" is 40% of the CYA level

A couple issues arise with cya so high though…
If there’s an algae problem its quite impractical and expensive to treat it properly (do the slam process)
&
At maintenance/target fc levels above 10ppm it skews the ph results which means you are torn between accuracy with ph and sanitary conditions.
The sooner you perform a water exchange to get cya down to a reasonable level the better as it will result in a much simpler path.
Do the diluted cya test procedure as poolstored linked to get a better estimate on how much water you need to exchange.

Neptune Benson are the filters you want to look into for that size pool. They are not inexpensive, but Daisy chaining a bunch of residential filters together is not the answer.

So she talked a IRL buddy out of the expensive model. The regular one was DOA like yours and in the 3 days that passed, she ran out of the regular ones and sent him the expensive one for a free upgrade. It was just under a week total and he was over the moon happy about it.