@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta i think I’m going to stick with my current type of set up because I’m not confident I’d figure out the WiFi situation. Right now I could use your help in selecting a timer that is the exact replacement. I was just looking at Amazon but I could also go to local pool store

There's a new Sense S2 now, and it still looks like it's the same deal. I wondered if anyone has figured something out to use one of these (and if not this, any alternative).

Yes I shut it off. The wheels and everything else I switched the breakers off

Make sure you shut power off at the breaker to the timer if you're going to be tinkering in there.

OK, I got the sequestrant and everything seems to be going well. Stains seem to completely be gone. It has been six hours. I put my dolphin in to get the dirt off the bottom and we will be turning the pump on with the filter. It has been recirculating just the water so now I will put the filter in. Run pump 24/7 Tomorrow I will start to rebalance the water with baking soda and borax and then chlorine liquid and test frequently to keep ph at 7.2 or less and FC /cya balanced. I had a lot of trouble with CYA being very high last year based on Leslie‘s so I bought my own kit and got it down to 50. Our pool man did not want to drain the pool because we have a high water table and there is always water behind the liner unless we have a long dry spell, I spent most of last summer draining the water and refilling it even though I was told that it’s not the correct way to do it somehow over the three months it did seem to go down as long as the CYA is reasonable when I test it tomorrow, I think I will be in good shape getting the rest of the water balanced Thank you for your help. I struggle with this because my husband doesn’t trust. I know what I’m doing and wants to jump ahead and just dump the chlorine in so it has been a battle.

Post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA

Looks like the same number I have but I do t have 104 listed anywhere so I was confused

Yes @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta it only controls my swg

I assume that only controls your swg? Your pump may be wired through the switch As well? I replaced my mechanical timer with a simple $13 Wi-Fi switch. It may not be for you, but if you're interested take a look at the link below, Post #9. Pretty simple.

PoolStored said:

I need to go to the raypak tech docs and read up on how this works.

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Nah. We need to get a couple of TFPers to do a YouTube channel that has content like the “unboxing videos” where they take apart pool equipment and show how it’s all built and works. I vote for @JamesW to explain how to install an AGP using only a pocket knife and bottle of aspirin … like McGyver or the A-Team …

Do these rails come with the extended pcb or are they supposed to be already installed?

This is my main pcb I dont have those rails?

That's the number on the motor. In the photo below you could see the number up on top upper left.

NaCLTPool said:

I have had the Betta SE Plus for almost a year now (got it on sale and added 3 year warranty), and have had no issues.

After going through a season of falling leaves and pollen, that thing was a gamechanger.

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Same without any issues. Best purchase I've made for my pool

I have the Taylor 2006. When testing the calcium the directions stats from red turn to blue.mine turns turquoise. So I wasn't sure about my test. Wanted to double checck

coolperson said:

Thanks for asking this. Took the cover off yesterday and going through the exact same thing.

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Good luck with fixing your pump!

ajw22 said:

It works like a car radiator thermostat.

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I get that! Replaced one on my mom's 1964 Nova II wagon. Lol.

It is setup to allow sufficient flow even when the UG is closed.

So this indicates that the UG is closed until the water is hot enough, then opens. If mine didn't open (I ran it up to 150 on the stove and it didn't), then how did it heat the pool. See this:

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If there’s a different one I’m supposed to get, please direct me.

ajw22 said:

Yes.

The gears don't have enough strength to flip the toggle switch off.

All signs of a worn out mechanism.

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I have unscrewed the timer so that I can check the number on the back. For posterity here is the photo.

On Amazon, I don’t see “WG1573-5E” but several pop up when I am searching the Intermatic T104M. Are these the same?

Option A: this one doesn’t have the “M” you noted but looks like it could be it? Amazon.com

Option B: Amazon.com

I’m sorry. This is my first time with this issue and I don’t want to get the wrong one so could use some guidance.

Have been losing water in my pump basket so today I relubed all gaskets and checked propeller
Turned pump back on and noticed a tiny drip by the pump drain plug
Have extras on hand so changed plug
Pressure seems to be holding now
Now waiting for the filter to clear my still but better, cloudy water

PoolStored said:

Couldn't that be too hot and cause damage?

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It is setup to allow sufficient flow even when the UG is closed.

If things get too hot due to low water flow the 130F and 135F safeties in the manifold will shut down the heater.

So the UG handles cold water and the safety switches handle high water temperatures to keep the water in the heater within the desired temperature.

Scott,

Odd... Most spillover spas do not have a skimmer..

Show us several pics of your equipment pad, so we can get an idea of how things are operating.

Thanks,

Jim R.