Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

1000005143.jpg

T
1000005143.jpg

Kem-Tek Brand MA was 31.45%, now 14.5% at Lowe’s

Newdude
The description says less fumes in the first sentence. Less / low / no fumes is my walkaway trigger. The same if it says green or eco.

Most of them hide the % at that point too so nobody knows better. The MSDS often says '10% - 30%', but i'm sure they give us 3X as much out of the goodness of their hearts.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Donldson

Jandy Pro Series TruClear

Newdude
thesmiths410 said:
Is there another brand or model that is superior and recommended?
Click to expand...
Its not so much the brand as it is the budget model of any brand. If they were just as good, nobody would buy the flagship models. The Jandy Aquapure 1400 is the better one. If you have automation you should stick with them for full control. Without automation you are free to shop around and the circupool RJ line is hard to beat.
Click to expand...

SWG Install and Opening Help

reaton
Timeline update. I shocked Monday night enough to get it up at FC of 20. I typically don't check again after I add, I just add and go to bed. Tuesday morning it was pouring, and I grabbed a sample at 6 AM and it was FC of 18. I decided to let it go throughout the day. I checked again at 8 PM and it was FC of 15. I decided to do another OCLT and this morning at 6:15 it was 13.5, so still a failure. At this point in time I've gone through 17 gallons of LC and only have 1 left, so I'll need to run out and get more. We're getting there, slowly, but we're getting there.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Filter gauge

K
1poolman1 said:
The gauge should NEVER be threaded that far into the port. Remove the gauge, turn the pump on. Does water spray out of the port? If so you probably have a bad gauge. Take a look at the tiny hole in the brass part of the gauge. Is it blocked by silicone? That's why the gauge doesn't register.
You're getting new gauge. Be sure to use Teflon tape if it doesn't come with some already applied, some do and some don't. Leave at least three threads showing when you install it or you can crack the valve. If it leaks, get some more tape and put three more wraps of it around the threads. Try again. The gauge should feel tight when installing it by hand. Don't use a wrench, too easy to damage the valve. If it still leaks add another two or three wraps and a bit of silicone sealant. If you can't get it to seal, remove all the tape and start over. If you can't seal it you will probably have to replace the valve.
If that is a spray of water on the left of the gauge in your picture, the valve is likely cracked already, sorry. I have seen some use a small worm-drive hose clamps clamped tightly around the port to temporarily seal a crack. Could be spider web, hard to tell.
Click to expand...
New gauge went on with the tape around it 6 times. No leaks , works perfect. The old one had no tape. They only used the silicone. Gonna attempt the testing today. Will get pics of all equipment etc and post back on the other thread. Wish me luck!!!!
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Is there a more accurate cya test than the Taylor kit?

Donldson
Small thing perhaps, but accuracy means how reliably it shows the correct answer within the margin of error. Precision is how specific the answer is.

The FAS-DPD test is accurate and precise. It consistently can give you a reliable answer to +/- 0.2 ppm FC (when using the 25 ml sample).
The CYA test is accurate but not precise. With proper lighting it reliably gives you a correct answer but within a fairly large margin.
Pool store machine testing is not accurate but precise. The result is not reliably correct, but it provides very specific numbers.
Test strips are neither accurate nor precise. The results are not reliable and the color matching is very imprecise.

So no, the CYA test is the most accurate test that is reasonable to own given the ease of overcoming the imprecision of the test.

EDIT: small grammatical improvements
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: pjt, generessler, oledan and 1 other person

Can’t find system setup options after upgrade to iAquaLink 3.0

PoolGate
jimrhyne said:
After replacing the PCB and adding iAquaLink, I cannot find the usual system setup settings in the iPhone app or on the website. This system does not have a wired controller. Am I going to have to buy one just to configure the rest of the system settings? I used to have AquaLink PDA system, but the PDA died which provoked me to upgrade.
Click to expand...

Is your new PCB an "RS" upgrade? If so, you'll program from the app or the Web now. Can you post exactly what upgrade you did? If it's IQ-20/30a then you still need the PDA to program.
Click to expand...

Jandy Pro Series TruClear

T
PoolStored said:
That stinks, but is pretty typical for the TruClear.
Just FYI AquaPure and FusionSoft are also Jandy products. They have 3 SWG systems - you were sold the worst one. We tend to not recommend TruClear for these reasons...

Jandy truclear buttons not working

None of the buttons on the keypad work. It wont turn off, adjust, ....nothing. I've tried turning it off of 5 minutes, hold the power button and still nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply. That does indeed stink. I'm not sure what the course of action is going forward if this 3rd power pack begins to do the same thing. Is there another brand or model that is superior and recommended?
Click to expand...

Best way to Automate PH control

casiokid
I was in the exact same situation with my pH, even with my TA at 50…my water just wanted to be at 8.0 with no aeration or any other obvious cause for the consistent rise.

I just installed the Intelliph and absolutely love it. I don’t know if Hayward has a similar product, but I’m sure they do. The brand agnostic equivalent would be a Stenner tank/pump combo.

There are plenty of discussions on the site on the topic.

It’s been a huge timesaver and piece of mind knowing my pH is always consistently at 7.4!
Click to expand...

Hayward filter leaking a little at after cleaning.

T
So I cleaned my Hayward cartridge filter a couple weeks ago, put everything back together. Tighten the band to 150inch pounds as recommended my the mfg. started up and noticed at prime I am getting a slight dripping from the filter. Tighten just a hair more it stopped.

Well tonight I added acid so I turned the pump on, well 3 hours later my wife asked why is the pump running on high😳. For whatever reason one it primed it stared at high speed vs dropping to 30%.

When over to the EQ pad, it’s wet on the pad so I am guessing high speed just mad it leak more.

So tomorrow I will pull the lid off and reset the o ring, it’s only 1 year old🤷‍♂️.

Do I need to drain the entire filter bottom or can I just depressurize and drain just below the mid section to clean and o ring again. Mgf says no lube, so I will try it again.
Click to expand...

1000002971.jpg

M
1000002971.jpg

Auto Cover will not close

S
I think it is an electric motor. It did not say anything about either one on the invoice.
(Hydraulic system says it should be installed above ground level, and ours is in cover box/pit. See attached pic from when pool was instructed.
This was installed in 2021, and quickly looking at warranty, motors and controllers are covered for 3 years.

The key switch we have to open/close the cover is the one shown on page 20 of the manual (top right corner when turned rightside up)

Also- that part I mentioned that is supposed to prevent waterfall from going on with cover closed is also shown on page 20, it seems its the "Aqua Link Interface Board". I did find an email from when the pool was installed with the wiring diagram the cover company gave us for this, that we sent to the electrician, but I now recall electrician was saying that cover co should install, and there was back and forth on that, and...4 years later its still sitting in the package, next to where I keep the manuals!
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • auto cover box before stone.png
    auto cover box before stone.png
    339.7 KB · Views: 6

auto cover box before stone.png

S
auto cover box before stone.png

Auto Cover will not close

ajw22
steve_NY said:
The brand is Cover Pools.
the manual cover says “Save-T 3 Automatic Pool Cover”.
Click to expand...

Your installation manual…


Do you have an electric motor or hydraulic motor? See page 5.

steve_NY said:
Another related question I have, and not sure if this should be a separate topic, is we were given a switch/part that is supposed to prevent the waterfall from working when the cover is closed. There was back and forth between cover company and electrician on who was supposed to install, and it was never done.
I still have the part, sealed in packaging. packaging says “ACC Board Amp Limit in Encl”.
(Says cover pools inc on packaging )

is this supposed to be installed in the auto cover box ? Or near the equipment pad ?
guessing I should have this addressed at the same time .
Thanks
Click to expand...
Any installation instructions in the package?
Click to expand...

20250513_163809.jpg

T
20250513_163809.jpg

Waterfall disaster

T
Bill1974 said:
There are multiple ways to address this. As you have seen your current set up is a bit oversized. It can be tweaked to work, but it might end up putting to much load on the pump.
  • Put a tee out of the filter with a valve that can divert some of the water back to pond w/o going to the waterfall. (need to figure out how to get the excess water back to the pool)
  • Put a valve on the inlet side of the pump to restrict the flow of the water into the pump (may overload the pump)
  • make changes to the water as newdude mentioned (you may end up with rapids/whitewater and not a gentile waterfall)
  • make your waterfall larger to handle the flow
  • make the waterfall taller (close to the head pressure of the pump)
  • replace the pump with lower flow pump (you may end up choosing a wrong size pump again)
  • replace the pump with a vsp pump (costly lesson, but will me the most efficient to run)
  • make a small pool of water at the top of the water fall. The small pool would feed the waterfall, kind of like backed up toilet overflowing. The water is the small pool slows down the incoming water from the filter.
You need to figure out how much gpm (max) your waterfall can handle. How is you hose water pressure and flow? if you have good pressure and flow it's usually around 10 gpm. You can also get an estimate by pouring 5 gallon buckets of water down it to get a feel for how much gpm you are looking for (might be possible up to 50 gpm or so if you have enough buckets)
Click to expand...
So do you think that if I make multiple small pools at the top of my waterfall, that will so the incoming water rate? I will attach a photo of what I believe you are talking about. Essentially, i have a 3 foot area at the top of my waterfall. The outlet pops up in the back of this area and the water is free to run down the slight slope with gravity to the edge of the first drop off. I can build concrete walls/gates (lack of a better word) that cut this area at the top of the fall into three different reservoirs/pools. The middle of the front concrete wall can be slightly lower than the rest allowing water to flow to the next reservoir before overflowing out the sides.

Do you believe this can slow down the amount of water coming from the filter? And do you think that this will result in a more natural flow down the water fall?

Also another test I ran was with a water hose. When placing the water hose at the back of the top of the waterfall, near the current outlet line, it creates a peaceful flow that achieves the look I'm going for. How do I replicate the water hose with a pump that is strong enough to push water to the top of the fall.
Click to expand...

Is there a more accurate cya test than the Taylor kit?

generessler
As @mknauss has pointed out before, accuracy isn't a huge deal. 40 or 60 means target FC is 5-7 or 7-9, and the absolute min, where you'd be in danger of algae, is 3. So shoot for 7. All good. nb: you should "invert the bottle repeatedly," not shake it hard. I guess that could add air. For fun you can order a standard CYA=50 solution from TF Testkits and practice.
Click to expand...

Kem-Tek Brand MA was 31.45%, now 14.5% at Lowe’s

S
ajw22 said:
Many discussions about that over the years....

New to testing

& yes in the setup you should select aquarite t15 as your cell.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Google search results

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
I perused the threads and yes, there have been many discussions over the years about sourcing, pricing, and concentration of MA. My point in posting this is to warn anyone who has been buying the Kem-Tek brand from Lowe’s recently that they’ve swapped the 31.45% product for a 14.5% product. It’s extremely deceptive because the boxes are identical. You have to look closely at the bottom of the package to see the change. So again, be warned if you buy MA at Lowe’s.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Rancho Cost-a-Lotta

1747193625713.png

ajw22
1747193625713.png
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back