Hi all - I was away for a couple days this week and while I was gone it rained pretty hard. Pump ran for the normal amount of time while I was gone, and I have a in line chlorinator (don't judge me!).
I tested the water this morning and as I expected, the levels were not bad enough to account for the green; free chlorine was at 3.5, pH at 7.4, alkalinity a little low at 76. Since I don't yet completely trust myself, I took a sample to the local pool store (I know...) and their results were almost identical to mine.
I added about 3 lbs of baking soda as the first step. Then after four hours added two pounds of 70% cal hypo shock. It's been about six hours since I did that. No improvement yet - I didn't expect miracles!
Any thoughts on why the pool went green with fairly well balanced water?

I just came home to my pump starting and immediately shutting off. The impeller is not obstructed, so I have a feeling it may be a capacitor issue. I am about to test in that direction.

Since Jandy has discontinued this version of the stealth pump - and I have had issues mounting with the lid (replaced)- pvc pipes (replaced)…

I am thinking it may be time for a complete overhaul. I am going to try to fix it while I do research, so my pool does not get an algae bloom.

Does this pump have a run and start capacitor? One on top and one in the back? If it kicks on, water flows- then kicks off… any clue which one it could be?

So like everyone else we are also planning to go out on summer vacation for 12 days and I have something that I want to do and seeking insight. We are in Dallas area so about to get to 100 degree days !!!

While it is also I’m signature:
Water Chemistry: Pool Volume 19000 gallons, pH: 7.4, FC: 2 pm. CC: 0, CYA: 50 and TA: 90

No Automatic Pool Filler: I do have a water fill pipe and plan to let it drip and replenish water. Tried this over the lat few days and I think we may lose some water to drain but better this than running the pump dry. What do you think?

Chlorine: I am losing about 2 ppm Cl every day so was thinking to SLAM the pool to about 30 ppm. This is higher than the recommended SLAM level. Will it be okay?

Pool Cover: No as I want to monitor the pool remotely via camera and also have a single speed motor that runs for 10 hours a day.

Any other points that any one would recommend.

Thank you so much

Amit
Pool Volume 19000 gallons,
pH: 7.4, FC: 2 pm. CC: 0, CYA: 50 and TA: 90

My pool water has somehow become electrified! My daughter started dipping her feet while holding onto the metal handrail, and was complaining of feeling a shock run through her. Sure enough, I tested my wetting my hands, putting one hand in the pool, and holding onto the handrail. Felt like when you put a 9V battery on your tongue!
What can I do here? I tried to run a test where I turned off the breaker to the pool light, and then tripped the GFI breaker on my house that feeds to the pool pump. So theoretically all electricity in the vicinity of the pool should have been turned off. STILL the water felt this way. Can water RETAIN electricity? I am lost, and frustrated! Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hello. Plaster day today. The crew started working from 8 am, but it started raining around noon. They said they are almost done with the pool area. They will have to come back and do the Spa and tanning ledge tomorrow. Not sure if the plaster needs some curing time. Will this comprise the plaster or the finish like leave streaks or blotches even after acid wash ?

First year with a pool and was hoping to automate some of the cleaning. Was looking at a robot (Dolphin E20) or the Betta SE skimmer for a cleaner, both in the same price range. Would you recommend one over the other if you had to choose.

The weighted bags in the bottom of the wedding cake steps busted and there is a lot of sand in the pool. Can I vacuum out the sand to waste and not hurt my pool pump?

Hope I can find my answer here as i have researched this topic extensively without a successful solution or definitive answer. I have a 1 1/2 hp, 2 speed pump, I ran it last year (i think) at low speed all the time without any issues however I noticed this year that when in low speed 1750 rpm I get a salinity on my controller of 2600 and if i switch to high speed 3500 rpm I get 4100 instead. Was wondering if this is normal as I don’t recall this happening last year and to me honestly doesn't make sense. This is my second year with this system and it seems to be generating chlorine just fine and the flow indicator is good as well. could this be a faulty flow switch, the cell itself or the controller? I m just confused with the difference in salt level and not knowing which one is accurate. I really appreciate any help or expert opinion in this topic.

Unit is a Raypak RP2100 Mfg date 6/1998- Propane unit. Dormant and uncovered for 10 years. No propane tanks on site but they were there once.
Unit powers on! Eureka!! - "SNS" code among others. She's coming alive again.
Step 1: Clear leaf debris/chipmunk nests/birds nest/sticks etc.
Step 2: Replaced Temp sensor (Amazon) Raypak 009577F - CLEARS "SNS" Code - Unit showing correct temperature of pool 68 deg
Step 3: Install (2) 100 Gallon Propane tanks (Professional install - used existing line) New regulators - 1 at tank and 1 at heater.
Unit is charged with propane - pilot sparking heard but will not ignite (ILO code) - I rattle the board and it fires right up! - Does a heavy flame rollout though. (Still have my eyebrows BONUS)
Step 4: Open board and find mouse nest I missed on it - they have chewed wires and loosened solder in one area

Step 5: Ordered replacement board off Ebay (Raypak P/N 601769) $140
Board arrives 1 week later.
Board works! No more codes - Unit fires up but flame is very orange/heavy (Dirt debris in the burners is my best guess hence the orange flame)

Step 6: Remove burner thanks to this youtube video help: Login to view embedded media Burners were filthy! Spider webs, clogged, dust, dirt. Removed, wire brushed, vacuumed, Compressed air - Reconstructed and reinstalled - There was also a lot of water in the Gas valve itself which I blew out/vacuumed out at the same time. After reinstall -
SUCCESS!!!!! Works great - effecient blue flame, strong! - Takes pool from 69deg-84deg in 10 hours.

Then it stopped working again- Unit still fires - shows it's lit (flame icon) - pilot is lit
No Error Codes
Pilot is lit but flame is very weak - almost strobing from flames flickering because not all burners are lit
I removed the burner unit again to check all valves etc. Seem fine to me - looks fine. No glaring blockages
The only thing left to replace is the gas valve (Robertshaw-Grayson 7000 BDER-LP-67C)
I ordered one online (Exact replacement was $179 Hayward CHXVAL1934 IID Gas Valve LP 150-250 | eBay) and I will replace and repost here to see if it fixes problem.
What else could be wrong??
If anyone can shed some light on this issue and perhaps give me some guidance it would be very appreciated! Any way to measure gas pressure coming in off tanks? Correct PSI at the regulators? I'm all ears. Thank you!

There is an Aqualink Rs. The inside one touch controller says the spa is heated to 104 and shuts the heater down. The Raypak heater is set to 104 but when this happens water temp is only 95. Put a thermometer in spa to check and heater is correct at 95. Temp sensor replaced so know its not that. Also calibrated temp sensor though one touch. Can't figure out what is going on.

We just put in a pool and my husband and son insist on letting the puppies in. I am worried about them ripping the liner on the stairs. Ours stairs go all the way across. I wanted to put a bath mat down when we let the puppies in. Will that hurt the liner with the suction cups? Any other ways to protect the stairs?

I have 41,500 gallon gunite freshwater pool sanitized by chlorine and ozone. My CYA level on 5/19/23 was 137. I quit using stabilized chlorine tabs and instead used a cup of Poolife Turboshock every few days for chlorine. On 6/30 the CYA was 165 and today on 7/6 it’s 184! What could be causing it to continue rising when I haven’t used stabilized tabs since May? I have a motorized cover that sits in a well, so we lose a fair amount of pool water into the well that gets replaced with city water by an auto-feeder.

New to using a robotic vaccuum, love it but my Dolphin Appollo (yes an older model) is creating a white chalky mess. It seems to be occurring when it is scrubbing at the bottom of the tiles that sit just under the edge of the pool. Is there anything that I do to prevent this? When I push on the foam wheels, I can see the whiteness and the pool gets slightly cloudy. help please!

I’m preparing for a pool and deck renovation. Re-plaster, new tile, new spillway (scupper), and re-do the cool deck. I’m most concerned with getting a tile that will resist the calcium buildup. Maybe glass, since it is the smoothest? I already use a water softener for make up and that helps tremendously. My goal (dream) is to never have to scrape calcium off tile again. That’s tough here in the southwest.

Any other suggestions?

The Intex Pressure Side Vacuum I purchased in 2016 worked like a charm until it stopped this year. It worked very well on the low speed of my 2 speed pump.
However, after three months, the newest incarnation will only work with the pump on high speed. But while its running on high speed, the in wall skimmer moves very little surface water....
Do I assume I get what I paid for?? Has anyone else seem this bewildering phenomenon??

Bob

So I have a few concerns about my fiberglass pool install. I have a wall that seems to be bowing. I didnt notice this till after they installer cracked my pool trying to fix the gap between my pool and auto cover track. what makes it worse is they didnt fix the gap between the two before concrete was poured.

So now i have a cracked shell concrete that oozed between the track and the pool which is fully cured and the adjacent wall seems to be bowed inward.

I told installer that i wasnt ok with a patched pool that I havent even been able to use yet. he told me it will be ok and if i wanted monetary compensation we will go through litigation. Nothing was ever said about money and it has me really mad that he would make a comment like that when I have paid him 90% of the bill already and have a bad install.

I will try to attach pictures in order that will help make sense

I dont know how to move forward with this.

@outpost

What buttons do u push to get FP on screen?

Moved from here.

I guess I'm another one to add to this list .

Purchased my Maytronics Dolphin S200 from Marina nearly 3 years ago to the day, and I believe it is dead, but would welcome any advice:

I have removed the top cover and impeller cover and the impeller spins freely and has never had any dirt/leaves/hair on it. However, it runs less than 5 minutes upon startup and then stops. I have watched a few youTube troubleshooting videos, but wondering whether they apply. Given that it runs at all, can I assume that the cord and power supply are OK? I could do a voltage test but not sure it would be worth it.

I turned the unit upside down and powered it up. The track on one side seems to have a slight skip in it, but would that cause it to stop running?
Could it be the motor? Probably, given the experience of others on this forum, but an eBay link shows motors starting at $400, and I'm not technical enough to take the unit apart and try to replace.

I really loved the S200 while it worked. Did a great job cleaning floor, walls, and waterline. Liked the fact debris was not passing through pump basket and filter, as with a suction cleaner. Completely independent of pump run schedule, while not requiring any minimum level of pump speed to work effectively. Loved that I could program it from my phone to run while on vacation. I never left it in the pool when not running (except for vacations), cleaned the filter basket regularly, hosed the unit down during filter cleanings, and stored the unit in a resin patio box under cover when not in the pool.

Do you have any recommendations for next steps? Would it be of any value to contact Marina? Maytronics? A local pool store that sells them?

Thanks...

Coming to the rescue of a nephew who thought he knew how to do electric. He purchased and installed a T104 intermatic timer on his newly installed above ground pool to operate the pool pump automatically. Unfortunately the pool pump is 120volt and the T104 is setup for 220 volt. can the internal wiring of the timer be changed to accomodate the 110 volt pool pump by relocating the clock timer wire from #3 terminal to #1 terminal with the other clock timer wire, put the neutral from the panel on #3 terminal and use the terminals 1 and 3 for hot and neutral from the panel and terminals 2 and 4 for the pool pump ? the Clock timer would run off terminal 1 for both leads so the clock would run. trying to find a way to use the timer now that its been installed as it cannot be returned as its already been installed. Thanks

I got two quotes, one for 30k one for 35k, which are almost half of the gunite spa. It is a 90" acrylic spa, with a waterfall that connects spa to the pool (model SW-505 by SpillwaySPA (The Spillway Spa Non-Spill Hot Tub Spa Collection). Quote includes purchasing and installing the spa 2/3 under ground, stone finish, HDF400 Gas Heater, LACUS11100 LED light, HLPLUS4W Omnilogic for automation with salt generator, check valve after the heater. Anything missing that I should add? Maybe a UV sanitizer? Note that my pool has a Pentail Intellipro 011018 pump. Should I pull electrical and plumbing permit only, correct? Final results will look like this, only that it is hexagonal: Login to view embedded media (I am going to pick the stone this week).

I have a 17 x 29 fox in ground pool that I believe holds 17,000-18,000 gallons and I would like to replace the sand filter and pump. my present system is a S210T filter and a 1hp hayward super Pump. I was hoping someone could tell me the perfect size I will need as I am thinking my present filter may be overkill. My plumbing is 1-1/2 " and it is 115v. I have no other features and only use a Kreepy Krauy suction cleaner

I tried logging out and back in of the aqualink app since I was having problems connecting to web. The main GUI interface was working fine.

When I try to relogin the app states "network not available". It inclines me to believe there is a problem with connection to Jandy's backend.

Another thing to add is that my jandy remote connects to the system fine.

Hi - I’ve been following TF Pool methods and test kit for three years and my water has been crystal clear and never green. I do however notice a green ring at water level on the stairs. My wife keeps complaining of our daughters hair getting a slight green tint and yesterday a guests white top started to get a green tint to it. I bought copper test strips and both times I tested in past year it shows ideal. Pool is 40x20 liner with IC40, DE filter. Photos attached and screenshot of pool levels. FC low at 3 ppm but I just increased cell run time now that we’re in the hottest period. Up until last week it was hovering around 5ppm.

So my family and I have taken to watching Pool Kings. For those not familiar, its a reality TV show that follows people's pool builds from start to finish.

One of the features I a lot of is an infinity edge which are typically finished woth tile. However, i have seen some where they finish it with pebble tech or similar. This makes me wonder how long that would last considering (at least to my knowledge) plaster/pebble tech needs the be constantly under water and an infinity edge may not always be "on" or fully covering the plaster/pebble with water.

What's others thoughts on this?

Hi Folks, I am from the seacoast of NH (yes we border the ocean). We have a 40,,000 gallon gunite pool that we bought with our home years ago. It has held up well in the tough NH winters. I found out about this site as I was looking for a replacement for our halogen light (SwimQUip Sta-Rite 120V halogen). This niche doesn't to look like there are a lot of options out there. So let me know if you have encountered this issue. Thanks, Joe

Hi and thanks in advance. Pool was filled a week ago after a full replaster. Customer states plaster material was used straight from the pails it came in. PB doesn't seem to concerned about the new plaster care and customer feels they may be neglecting it . I've read through the new plaster guides but time is in essence here so asking on the forum will be the quickest way for me to hit the nail on the head. Fill was city water and not a well. PB is now only putting 3" pucks in the skimmer which I remove and relocate to a floater. Going forward please guide me, thanks, Allan

Hello all. I have a 14K gallon pool with a solar cover and am located in southern Michigan.
I am contemplating on whether to get a heat pump or natural gas heater. I don't care about the up front costs, I just want to buy the unit that is the cheapest operating cost. I plan to operate the unit from May to August.
I have heard some people say electric heater is cheaper but others saying gas is cheaper. I have ran calculations, have done research, but cannot find a clear cut answer because I don't know how often each unit would need to be on for to maintain the pool temperature(ideally between 80-85degrees).
My natural gas costs me $8.6MCF and my electric kWh is 15.45 cents non peak hrs and 21cents peak hours(3pm-7pm). My family is convinced gas would be cheaper, but from what i've heard, electric usually is.
In your opinion based off my rates, what would be the cheaper option?
For clarification, I was looking at a 125k heat pump vs a 200k natural gas heater.
Thank you.

I have several cells including a "rebuilt" one. The connector failed on the rebuilt one but the grid inside is good. I would like to exchange that grid to a cell with a "used up" grid but do not know how to get the plastic cell open without destroying it.
Is there a way to open it?
Thanks!

Just bought a home with a 31k gallon in-ground vinyl liner pool. Am trying to learn everything at light speed so I can enjoy the pool!

We inherited a bunch of pool chemicals from the previous owner so have been using those to balance things out as best I can, running to the pool store to test things, but not buying any new pool chemicals yet. Was hoping to educate myself through the forums and find tried-and-true methods to keep a crystal clear pool in northern New England.

I also recently bought two pool robots, a Dolphin and a Betta, and am hoping these help ease my entryway into pool maintenance and care.

Thank you!

I currently have a Sta-rite PLD50 filter on my pool. Not sure how old it is but we’ve had it for 3 years and got from a friend. The cartridge needs to be replaced but I’ve seen $260-399 for it to be replaced. Should I replace it or switch to a different filter? There is no backwash and I’m currently trying to clear the pool and I’ve used 18 lbs of de and it’s still not clear.