Hello,
I’m having Issues priming a Pentair Superflo VS pump. There is very low water flow. I replaced volute lid and O ring. Made sure impeller is rotating, check for pump output and filter for blockage. Controller shows 3450 RPM but only draws 1.5 Amps. Can't tell if the pump/motor is culprit or inlet water supply. However, when I use a sump pump connected to my skimmer, and take off the volute lid, a was able to verify good inlet flow. I put the lid back on and ran pump with the sump pump connected to one of my 2 skimmers and has good water flow but then it went bad again after turning off sump pump. Is it possible to have Volute issue ? Leaning towards a pump but want a 2nd opinion... pump is only 2.5 years old...seems like current draw should be a lot higher than 1.5 Amps. Thx

Ok I think I have been a pool owner for exactly a year now and we had a flood... it was BAD and the pool went over the vinyl liner and then some. I did turn off the filter before this happened, but the pool is brown and filthy. I am sure there is stuff in there but it is literally like a swamp. I'm lost... I ran the robot and drained the water to half skimmer level... but I don't even know where to start... is my vinyl liner done for? Do I test the pump somehow? I deleted the schedule and put it in service mode so hopefully it does not turn on. This is pretty rough!!! Please help! Thank you.

We are April and Eddie from Greeneville Tn. We are in the process of prepping our first ever pool. Of course we have to go with a 16’x32’ Intex ABG! We have been all over the sight here before registering, and you guys are a wealth of knowledge. We are leveling a place in our sloped yard as we speak. We have 22 tons of sand on standby, and are getting the foam boards and pavers now. So any advice y’all have, it’s always welcomed!

My SWG keeps showing low salt and shutting down, but the taylor test shows 4000ppm. I noticed the chromate indicator is expired. It looks good still, changes the sample yellow with the single drop like it should. Could expired indicator cause a high test? The reagent is new, but I'm not sure if the indicator tends to go bad from age. If so, would it test high or low?

Afternoon all,

We bought a house with a pool 9 months ago. We are currently looking to renovate said pool. The plaster and tile are in rough shape and the coping is pretty dated.

As you can see we have four massive live oaks that overhang the pool. That photo was taken just after noon and is pretty much the maximum sun exposure for our pool.
I've been thinking about going with an exposed pebble or quartz finish and choosing a dark one. Either dark gray, dark blue, or even black. My thought is this would help the pool run a little warmer and help with the aggravating stains caused by the oaks.
However, of the pool contractors we've had out they're 50/50 on this idea. About half think it would look great in our pool and the other half think it's a huge mistake. I would like to hear the opinion of anyone who has experience with darker pool finishes.

Thank you all for your time

My warranty will up soon on my Polaris cleaner and once it is , I am done with it. If I switch to the Dolphin is it a similar set up where I’ll need a Dolphin booster pump etc? Will the current wall connection inside the pool have to be changed or is that universal ?

New member relative posted in spas and hot tubs (water chemistry ?'s) but doesn't show under forum new content and getting no response...curious why it doesn't show up in new content.

We had a new linear installed in our pool two years ago. Not a great job in my opinion. Liner kept pulling out of the to track, leaks etc.

This year still more leaks. I found a spot near the light where it looks like the liner had either turn or pulled out from the light ring.

It's a triangle shape about .5" wide at the light ring and extending about .5" to the point of the tear/hole.

It also looks like someone has placed an extra piece of vinyl under the light clamp ring and over this hole, like flapper valve.

Couple questions.

1) Am I justed headed for trouble here? Looking at it seems like this will just get bigger.

2) is this something that can be fixed with a patch? I would guess it can't without taking the clamp ring off.

3) do I have any recourse going back to the original installer? I think this is far more of an issue with a poor original install than anything else but I have no idea what "industry standard" is on something like this. The liner has a warranty but I would doing the labor does and this is a labor issue.

I would take a picture but it's under water and at a bit so good position on the light.

Thank you for any thoughts.

Using Taylor K-2005C, I measured:
ph...7.0
Alkalinity...100
Calcium Hardness...200
CYA...0
Showing clear on bromine (0 ?) but there are 4 tabs in chlorinator from servicer.
Spa was just drained and refilled 3 days ago.
Spa is 6 x 6 in-ground.
Any advice would be truly appreciated

I’m at a complete loss. I am just starting up my pool because I had a baby May 25th. Got my pool water tested at the pool store and the copper was 0.4 and iron was 0.1. I had never dealt with this so I asked them what I needed to do with that and she said I didn’t have to worry about it right away. I bought some CYA, muriatic acid and liquid chlorine and left. Got home, turned on pool pump, adjusted pH, and added CYA. I added 2 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine and my pool immediately went from green swamp to dark brown swamp. I did not immediately adjust this and kept slamming pool. Every time I added chlorine the color would go from bad to worse. 2 days later I went to different pool store and had water tested. Copper was 0.5 and iron 0.1. I bought a bottle of metal out and added it that night, following the instructions on the bottle. The next day my pool was a light green and I was resumed slamming, it again turned dark brown. Water test at pool store showed metals at 0.0. At this point I decided to just let my filter work for a few days before adding anything else because I don’t want to continue to dump money into water I’ll have to drain. 5 days later the pool water was a very light, cloudy green last night. I had hope! Slammed last night, I just went and checked it and it’s dark brown again. WHAT DO I DO?! below are last nights levels before adding chlorine. I know a couple of the numbers are a little off but again I don’t want to dump a bunch of money if I need to drain it. Please help. Pic of my water attached. Thanks for reading and any suggestions welcome.

FC : 1
CC: 0.6
PH: 7.0
TA: 70
CH: 150
cYA: 30

The documentation on how this is supposed to work is confusing. I have an Intellicenter in "10D" configuration (two bodies of water). This has two dedicated load relays, one for the "pool" and one for the "spa". My installer connected an Intelliflow VSF to the "spa" relay and initially didn't connect it to the RS-485 bus. He later did. But it's still on the relay, which the pump manual says we shouldn't do. When it's off for a number of hours, and comes back on, it can take up to 2.5 hours to reestablish communication via RS-485. But if I just turn if off for about 10 minutes, it's fine.

I'd like to take it off the relay, but then it seems to me that there's no way of having the default "spa" slider control the pump. I can have different variable speed circuits and put each as a schedule entry, with none active meaning the pump is off, but I don't see a way of controlling the pump via the built-in button. Am I missing something? Shouldn't this be possible?

I have had my 11k gunite pool for two years now my salt level is still over 4,200 and has been ever since the PB dumped in the 9 or so bags of salt. I’ve tried draining about 5” of water out of the pool plus I have grandkids who splash out a lot of water and yet my salt level does not drop at all. I use an automatic acid dispenser so I am not dumping acid in the pool and I have my SWG set to 40%. My cell says about 4,600 my Taylor test kit say 4,200.

So I have my pool in a relatively narrow area that's close to the house. It continuously sprays out and is soaking the house and doors that lead into the primary bedroom. I didn't care all that much before, but we're in the process of completing a major renovation. I would REALLY like to keep the water off of my brand new doors on two sides of my house. Unfortunately, the grey foam attachments seem to last about 3 days and frankly it just doesn't clean that well.

I'm going to try this tail attachment (Amazon.com) in the interim, but is it worth switching to a robot? I'm willing to put a not insubstantial amount of money at this because I'd rather do that than deal with the problems the spray out is creating. Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks for any advice!
-Mark

Hello. We have an Intex pool. 20’ round. It’s our second year with it and when I packed it up I used cornstarch to ensure it was dry. When it was set up, the cornstarch hadn’t been vacuumed out. It was only filled a few inches when I got home so I vacuumed and wiped down the inside walls. Unfortunately, the cornstarch that was on the bottom is not being filtered out by the system (standard Intex filter (A/C). Pool is clear when no one in it or filter not running. Chemicals all in proper ranges. But when I vacuum or once the filter is running it gets cloudy. The vacuum debris canister is pretty fine but not enough to trap the cornstarch. Any way to remove the cornstarch? Definitely a HUGE lesson learned.

A few weeks ago we started noticing a bit of sand in our in-ground pool. Vacuum it up, and there’s more the next day. The amount, though small, seems to be increasing. Although the plaster appears to be in good shape, we’re wondering if the sand is from deterioration of the plaster. We’re not experts (obviously) but we don’t think it looks like filter sand. It looks like clear/white quartz with some blue grains mixed in. Any help with ID or advice is much appreciated!

Hi all,

Some questions about getting the SWG properly dialed in.

Brand new, fresh filled pool from some number of days ago. I've kicked off with liquid chlorine. SWG has been running for the past few days, but only successfully tested parameters yesterday and found that the FC was low, at 2ppm. Added liquid and FC tested at 4.8ppm. Tested midafternoon today which is just about 24 hours later, after the SWG's scheduled 4 hour morning run (which I set per the manual). I was surprised to see that today it's actually gone up to 5.6 ppm.

So the questions I have at this point are:

1) is this ok? Today started out a bit overcast and I had the solar cover on which is a new addition from the past few days as well. I speculate that I might be sitting flat at 5 ppm if today had been sunny and uncovered

2) I read about adjusting Salt Cell% on the forums, but does Intex QS1200/ECO6110 have that? If not, is there some default salt cell% for regular/boost mode?

3) asking about the second part of #2 because I am trying to figure out how to use Pool Math, which seems to require this?

4) is there some prescribed startup testing regimen to follow to understand if I have the proper runtime for the SWG?

Thank you!

While waiting for my test kit to arrive, I have been relying on the results of my Sense 2. I am not sure how accurate the readings are from the Sense 2 without the ability to double check them. So my question is what should I focus on until the test kit arrives?

Current readings from the Sense 2 today.
Water temp 83
FC 5.2
Ph 7.7
TA 200
CYA 90
CH 218

Based on pool math and FC chart; I am adding 1.5 gal of liquid chlorine today which will increase the FC to 11.4 within the target range based on the CYA level. Should I do anything to decrease the TA or should I wait to get more accurate readings from the test kit (K-2006).

Thanks

I have just put a Waterways above ground in line chlorinator into the hard plumbing on my pool. I am getting no chlorine going into my pool. I have open the canister and taking a chlorine test and it is off the charts inside the canister. Appears that, something is stopped up? I am getting good flow out of my return, but no chlorine in the pool. It is brand new. Is that possible that the check valve or the elbow is stopped up? I have the dial turned to max output.

Hi Guys,

So we converted at the beginning of the season and we are still struggling with a huge chlorine demand. We have been using 15 gallons of 12.5% (5 gallons every 4 hours), then I tried 6 bags of BurnOut Shock (every 4 hours). We have been doing it for days and it's costing me tons. I've tried it during the day, at night. It just wont hold. As of this weekend, I am just adding a gallon of 10% liquid and then doing 6 bags at night. It goes up to 18PPM but then it's back down to .3 to .5 in the morning. Water is crystal clear. Any thoughts?

Hello all,
Im just a house wife trying to maintain our home in order. We recently had to upgrade our Omni Logic panel due to lightning strike burning the system. Anyway new panel is installed and the Hayward help is long gone. On the panel (and on the app)when selecting the waterfall button the fountain turns on. If I select fountain button the waterfall comes on but ONLY if I power the fountain on first. So I cannot turn on waterfall on its own. The old panel had the options of AUX 1 and AUX 2 and I think they would just come on at the same time. Is this okay or does someone need to rewire the features?

After cleaning the SWG in diluted chlorine water x 30min, I noticed the pool temp reading is way off. I also shut off the control panel breakers while doing this. It was reading ~90 deg before and now it reads 58deg. How important is this reading and is it something I can diagnose/fix?

Greg

I've got an above ground fiberglass pool it's about 7863 gallons. And the pump is a jacuzzi J-P150 1.5 hp pump and the filter is a Hayward S210T.
The guage pressure at the filter head is 23 psi when the filter is clean.

My question is basically what can I do to decrease the power consumption? Would it be much cheaper running if I replace the pump with the 1/2 hp pump suggested in the pump sizing sticky threads on here? Or is there a way to lower the capacity of the pump by replacing the impeller with a smaller one or installing a slower motor or something like that without adversely affecting the hydraulic efficiency of the pump?
I've even thought about spending the almost $700 and buying a variable speed motor for this pump or just buying a variable speed pump outright. But really the whole goal here is to save some money so buying an expensive pump has got to be able to provide enough energy savings to pay off for it to be worth doing.

Just set up an intex 12x24x52 swg pool. It is almost full. Have set up sand filter and swg. Don’t know what to do next…. We just got a tf-pro salt test kit and aren’t sure how to use it but tested the TA and PH.
TA - 200
PH - 7.2
We are filling with well water, so water may be hard.
Next step????

Recently moved to Tucson, pool was not kept up. Already replaced filter and pump, now getting to the light. The light was full of water (breaker has been off since moved in). Took it out and all the was left of identifying marks is below. I'd like to switch to color changing LED, ideally Pentair, but the light clearly says Hayward. The bulb diameter is 4 inches. The niche cover is 5.75 inches in diameter. Any ideas?

Greetings. My 6-year-old Pentair Whisperflo Two Speed 1 HP motor just went up in smoke. Lights flickered and I happened to be near the breaker panel and heard a breaker trip. Saw it was the pool pump 220 breaker and then went outside to find smoke coming from the motor!

So... I need to replace it and wondering if the experts here can tell me what is compatible / what I should get as a replacement. Looks like everything is variable speed pumps now.

What I have:
Pentair WFDS-4 011486 WhisperFlo Two Speed, 1 Horsepower, 230 Volt, 1 Phase

Hoping to just swap the motor, of course.

tia

I have stamped concrete decking and it will burn your feet right off this time of year.

I have tried a couple different sandals, flip-flops and everything I tried was just a pain to use.

Then I tried these...


You can just swim with them on.. they don't hold water and you almost can't tell you are wearing them.

I can now just get out the pool and walk on the deck without having to find or put on something else.

I expected they would not to work, as they are about $12 bucks or so, but so far I am impressed.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I am looking into doing an install of a Glacier Cooler and looking for some advice or constructive criticism of my idea. My equipment area is kind of tight so it will require me to move my waterfall pump over a bit, redo the plumbing, etc.

I currently have a pressure side pump that was used for a previous cleaner that is not in use any more. My plan is to remove the pump and utilize the existing tee coming from the return side to feed water to the cooler and use the dedicated return to send water from the cooler back to the pool. I realize that the manual says for an existing build with automation to plumb it in to the suction side however I will have a dedicated return, albeit on the wall of the pool and not the bottom, so why not use it as if it is similar to a new pool build.

Any thoughts on if this will work as I anticipate or should I try to figure out how to plumb it into the suction side? I don’t have much plumbing to work with on that aspect so I can only think of removing the cap and adding a new valve to the end for the cooler. Appreciate any help!

Photo below of my pad labeled for clarity:
1. Tee running from returning line to booster pump
2. Booster pump to be removed
3. Suction side lines with cap referenced above
4. Return line for booster pump under capped end
5. Waterfall pump to be moved over

I’m having the same issue....multiple times. Controller locks me out with the message “No Module” and “Tri-Pure” alternating. I’m a Jandy dealer/installer so I’m working with my area rep and tech support who have been very helpful. This is my personal pool. First they sent a new controller/user interface. That worked for about a week and then the same fault came back. They decided to send me a new PCB (system brain) which has not arrived yet. In the meantime, I was having my electrician by-pass the AquaLink so I could at least turn on the pumps with the breakers, when he found that the circulation pump relay was faulty. I have an extra relay that wasn’t being used, so we switched it out with the faulty relay. Everything worked perfectly. For about 10 days, and now I’m back to the same fault “No Module & Tri-Pure” and totally locked out. Strange thing is, all 3 times this has happened it was preceded by overnight heavy rains. Each time. I don’t believe in coincidences, yet I can’t find any evidence of water getting into the unit. I’m perplexed. I’ll repost as I work thru this issue, but this is a difficult one to solve. Any help would be appreciated and shared with Jandy Tech Support.

Apparently my SWG has died. The display works and the flow led lights up, but now power led or generating led.

My salt level is 3000 (display), 3200 per last test.

The display readout as follows:
1: Temp 78
2: Cell voltage 12
3: Cell current 0
4: 95p
5: -0
6: AL-1
7: Firmware version 1.4

Based up research, it appears my current limiter may have failed. I just wanted to get opinions here before I replace it. I've attached a few pictures of the limiter.

.

Has anyone tried the swimables basket lids?
They say theirs are made with 30% more materials which is appealing to me as my pentair lids are crazed/cracked around the sealing surface meets the oring. They are less expensive but if will fail faster than the oem it may not be worth it.