Hello everyone. Hope everyone enjoying their summer! Question for you experts. My hawward super pump, motor “cover” is showing some considerable
Rust. Worried it will breach and burn it out etc. Can I replace the motor cover? Any idea where I can get it, or better to replace motor? Or better to wait until it’s breached and blows up, etc, then replace?

Thanks y’all! Picture attached.

I have finally seem to have found the balance of the SWCG for my pool, which is around 47% running at low speed for 16 hours a day.. I get right around 6.9-7.0 TC and the same with FC. PH is a "every three day" test and add due to salt water.. I have two questions around CYA and CH

CYA - over a 2.5 to 3 week time frame, drops from about 70 or so down to about 55-57, Is that normal?

CH - the "Store" says 150-400 is the norm and I am currently sitting at 256, but the app says that I should be around 450? I ask as I go to the store about once a month outside of my testing.. says I need to add 22lbs of CC

Appreciated

glx-pcb-pro. Firmware on my board is 4.10. Replaced original 2 speed pump with Tristar VSP. Need a hex copy of firmware 4.30 or later as those have all the features to control vsp’s. If you have pickit and used instructions from forum to upgrade firmware to 4.30 or later please respond. Thank you

Hi everyone, I'm new around here, but so far I can't find an update to my Hayward automation system (Aqua Logic AQL, software Revision 3.00). What software version do you have?

Inside, I have one of these "main" boards.

Here I noticed that J12 header (located at the top left corner, between wireless antenna connector J9 and Local Display connector J7) is a standard pic programming port (matching pickit well)

(Pin 1 is located to the left, closer to J9 connector, pin 6 is unused and thus J12 has only 5 pins)

For this, you will need a microchip PicKit 3 programmer, available via official channel for $48 here (link), or Amazon has some knock-offs for less here (link), though why so many of them are more than $48 are beyond me.

The microchip in question is PIC18F2620 and you can interact with it by:

1. Install a free mplab-x from here (link)
2. Lunch mplab ipe (integrated programming environment), which was installed along with mplab-x
   • 
3. Go to Settings > Advanced mode (password is "microchip")
4. Under Family, choose "Advanced 8-bit (pic18)"
5. Under Device, choose "PIC18F2620"
   • 
6. Make sure that target board is not powered (main circuit breaker is OFF or the board is removed from the assembly), working with a live board is risky
7. Back in IPE, Under Power tab, Choose 5.0 as VDD voltage and "Power Target Circuit from Tool" option (If you don't see power tab, check step #3)
   • 
8. Go back to Operate tab and click Connect
   • The first time you are connecting, IPE may update your programming tool, it is normal
9. First thing you NEED to do upon successful connection is click "Read" which is located in the middle of all the options
   • 
10. After a successful read command, identified by a blue, time-stamped "Read Complete" status line on the output:
11. Choose File > Export > Hex and SAVE the file somewhere safe (you may want to even email yourself this file). It will allow you to restore everything if all else has failed.

---

What I hope to accomplish is to get this community involved and allow us to finally update our automation controllers without the need to purchase the whole new Main Board, as seem to be the going suggestion to date (link).

By sharing the firmware, we can use the similar method described above to load more up-to-date firmware (via File > Import > Hex) and Program command instead of Read.

As I've mentioned, I only have access to version 3.0 of the firmware, which I will be happy to share as soon as I had a chance to cooperate with other members on data within EEPROM. I don't want someone loading out of date firmware and potentially breaking their controllers.

Anyone out there with a pickit handy and a more up to date firmware on their device?

Cheers,

eePool

Anyone ever accidentally spill drop test regints and pool water mix on themselves? Do i really have to rinse for 20 minutes once diluted for the test?

Hey everybody, I just had my sand filter and pump replaced and although it seems to be working well overall, there is a strange crackling noise around the multiport valve when running on high. It also lost prime a few minutes ago, although I did have the pump off for a few minutes prior. It seemed to prime fine and then pressure suddenly dropped and lost prime a few minutes later. I’ve since got it running again and no issues for about 30 minutes so far other than the crackling noise. I read this could be cavitation, what do you think? Is it possible my new pump/motor is too powerful for the filter I have? The updated information should be in my signature but here are some photos. 15psi seems to be the normal operating pressure. I believe the pipes underground are 1.5”, it looks like they connected everything above ground with 2” pipe where they could though. Not sure if that is relevant. And ignore the poor wiring of the motor, I am having it rewired properly tomorrow.

Hi, does anyone know of a way to a set fixed color for the Pentair Microbrites other than the 5 preset fixed colors it comes with?
In its party modes we see some colors that we'd like to adopt as a fixed color.

Alternatively we'd like to set up a new party mode with a couple colors we like.

Is any of this possible?

Thank you!

I inherited a pool this user and it turned into a swamp this summer. I was able to get the chemistry correct but I could see lot of dirt and pool stuck as green. I notice my pool pump water flow becomes slow whenever I use shock or green to blue products. Tried cleaning filters multiple times. But in no time i see the water flow going down. Filter pump valve is stuck so can't backwash. My pool robot is also not able to pick enough dirt. Can't see the bottom.Tried draining the pool 3/4 way(mistake?) and see lot of green smelly sludge at the bottom. Tried removing the sludge with pool net and it's not working. sludge is getting mixed in water and very small quantity i could pick. What options I have now. Should I rent a trash pump and drain all the way.

First time poster; short time reader!

First of all, great forum. Thanks in advance for all the expert opinion!! Can’t wait to move into a BBB state of mind. But first….

I just purchased a home with a four year old 28k gallon gunite pool with SWCG (all original equipment). I have an Aqua Logic AQL-PS-4 Automation/Chlorination system. For the last three weeks, I’ve been dealing with a “Cell Power Error” issue. The Chlorinator has been off during this time and my pool maintenance service provider has added Chlorine sticks to up the FC.

Bottom line, after having three differnet techs out (I’m anal), I’m in agreement the board is fried (after four years). I don’t share the chemistry of the pool on this post because I’m down to hardware selection. I’m not excited about my options and after reading about pre-mature board and cell failures with Goldline, I am contemplating replacing the whole system. My most trusted (many recommendations and ‘gut feel’) service provider recommends option two below. I’m tempted to just replace the main board ‘on the cheap’ but I don’t want to deal with the cell next year and have to dump another $1k.

Option 1: Replace the Goldline Aqualogic Main Board $895.00

Option 2: Operate the Goldline Aqualogic system without $1750.00
replacing the main board and install an
Auto Pilot Pool Pilot Digital chlorine generator
with a RC-35/22 cell.

Option 3: Completely replace the Goldline Aqualogic system with a $4255.00
Jandy Aqualink RS-8 PDA system with a salt chlorine
generator.

Option 4: Install the Auto Pilot Pool Pilot Digital as priced in option 2. $3100.00
At a later date you can replace the Goldline Aqualogic
system with a Jandy Aqualink PS-8 PDA.

Sorry this post isn’t overly technical – I feel comfortable with the decision point I’m at and just need some recommendations.

Thank you,

Rookie

Good Day All,

Has anyone experience surface problems with sider crete?

Is it better to power the Aquapure via main pump relay in the Aqualink RS enclosure. (effectively turning on the SWCG when power is applied to the pump), or connect it to the RPM switched relay on the Jandy FloPro pump itself (Activates around 1725 RPM).

Thanks

I started replacing my pool equipment and I'm stuck a bit here. Maybe I am to focused on not creating anymore 90 degree turns but someone talk some sense into me.

The image shows the pipe right under the T, which is the main drain, will need 2 90s to move it to the right to utilize the 3 ways properly.

Does anyone see any other way to set this up to limit the 90s needed for the main drain?

Also is it frowned upon using street elbows?

Hey all,

When this pool is done I'll be making a hefty donation to TFP, that's for sure. Our PB has been slow to respond to slide placement options and we would like to do the Typhoon. He said that it cannot go over our Coverstar auto cover, but here on a competing pool builder's website (attached, but very small photo) I see they've done exactly what we would like to do, which would save us on extending the deck space on the long side of the pool. Is there any technical reason I'm not grasping for why we couldn't do this or is my PB just dodging me?

hello Everyone, I'm new here and a pool owner for 5 years. This year we had our first experience with "chlorine lock". It was a first and second for us. Roughly 8 days ago we had to dump 5 of those big Chlorine jugs into the pool (we were going away the following day and didn't want to return to a green pool). Now that we are back, I tested our pool and chlorine and free chlorine is still bright pink. However, as I was getting ready to leave the house for work, I wanted to set up the salt generator to superchlorinate because we will have a very hot day here in CT today. I'm very concerned that my cell read ZERO salt. What's happening??

So my pool stays clear mostly but after a few days of normal operation (pump on 8 to 10 hours, FC level around 2-3ppm, CYA 30 to 45, 3 Trichlor tabs each in two floats), the deep end doesn't look as clear. It's clear, but not super, sparkly, clear. I'll then dump a gallon of Bleach in or a bag of shock and the next day it's super clear. A few days later, rinse and repeat.

??

Thanks....

I have been using the Diamond Crystal brand salt crystals in my pool SWG (as well as my water softener system) for the last year and i know they are often recommended on this site.

My autofill for the pool comes from my house, which is from the water softener system.

I can buy the Morton water softener pellets at a lower price and was wondering if anyone has an opinion/experience with the Morton porduct in a pool?

thanks.

John

About to close on a home that has an in-ground pool. I will be first time pool owner. The lights in the pool are an old S.R. Smith PG2000 Fiber Optic Lighting System that is not longer working. Pool has 4 lights and Spa has 1. I was told a good replacement is the Pentair MicroBrite color leds that will communicate with the new Pentair control board recently installed. The pool tech quoted the MicroBrite color leds 620425 for 518 which I believe is not bad (if the regular price is 499?). However, we do need the 100' wire. Where is a good source to buy the 620424 which is a 50' wire? If I am not mistaken this is almost 100 cheaper. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Since my pool pump timer stopped working last month, I've probably only ran my filter about 6-8 hours every other day due to forgetting to turn it on. I have a Paramount cleaning system also which runs 90% of the time when the pump runs for those 6-8 hours. I chlorinate via 2 floats with tabs. Activity (people) have been in it most days so it's getting circulated during the day for a few hours.

My pool is clear as glass and all levels are rock solid. Am I playing with fire here by being so laissez-faire with filtering?

I've been in process of building a mobile cart (hand truck) with a Pentair CC75 and a Pentair 011056 pump, but this morning one of my old Jandy 1.0HP single speed pumps (its 13 years old I think) died so I'm going to replace that one with the Pentair 011056 pump that -was- going to go on the mobile cart.

So now I need a new VSP pump (110V, since it will plug into an outside AC outlet when in use), that will be on my hand truck (dolly) along with the CC75. Any thoughts? a 2.5-3HP VSP would be nice, as I would need it to move enough water for 36,000 gallons or so and mobile vacuuming. (This mobile cart (filter and pump) is something I'd only be using 1x per week (for 30 mins or so) and sometimes after my pool is shutdown in late Fall.

Someone on TFP (was it @Jimrahbe maybe? or @Newdude?) posted some really nice cheap VSP pump options awhile back (in Spring??) that were only around $500 or so. I'm likely to skip Jandy/Pentair as options. Cheaper models are fine because usage will be minimal.

Any points in the right direction? Thanks.

Circupool Universal 40 SWG

It is reporting 2300 PPM on the screen, and flashing the low salt light, or even leaving the light continuous which means it thinks that there is too little salt to generate, along with the check cell light and "Slo" on the display which I think means "Salt low."

I did pop the cell off and took a peek in there. There seems to be a small seed in between a couple of the fins, (Tried to get it out with a popsicle stick, but ended up pushing it further accidentally!) But otherwise it looks good in there.
When I put it together at the beginning of the season, I did acid-clean the cell as described in the instructions as it had a little bit of build up. That was at the beginning of my TFP learning and I believe my CSI has always been in range, and below zero.

I just measured salinity with my kit and it is 4000 PPM.

Is there anything else I can try?

We bought the house in December so this is all relatively new to me; if I recall correctly, the sellers told me they installed the system in 2017 or 2018. So the cell is likely a few years old.

The specific question is: do I need to shut off my Intelliflo pump to adjust a 3-port Jandy Never Lube valve?

In more detail: I finally figured out what this return piping is for (pictured). The right side is labeled "Spa Fountain" and should divert water to the port in the center of my spa floor, though I haven't tried it yet. The left is un-labeled, but I opened it and found it feeds two aerators in the pool. Up to now, I've been careful to turn off the Intelliflo pump before operating the 3-port diverters to switch the suction and return between Pool and Spa, based on what the previous owners said. But when it comes to this fountain/aerator piping, I'm not sure whether it's a bad idea to repeatedly shut the pump off and on trying to make minor adjustments to spray height. Is it a bad practice to adjust these valves while the pump is running? The majority of flow is still running to the returns in the pool and spa, so I can't see accidently creating a bad backflow situation.

I was troubleshooting my Mastertemp 300 and changing all the usual sensors and the control board. I checked the thermal limiter and found the thermostat and the spring were gone. I’m thinking the spring must have rusted and the thermostat must be in the manifold. My question is, how far can that Dang thing go? It must be causing a problem because now I’m getting a PS LED light telling me it’s the pools pressure, which make sense as the thermostat could be causing a blockage. Thanks guys for any help.

Moved from HERE

@RickRude, did you notice that you lost flow with this problem? We have the same pump and have bubbles coming out of the jets and gurgling. We keep losing flow and are wondering if we should try what was suggested to you.

Looking for recommendations on a quick repair for glass tiles on our spillway edge. A dozen or so had fallen out and managed to get the builder back to repair those and close out a few other final punch list items. A week later a single tile popped out. Can anyone recommend a water proof adhesive - marine epoxy maybe? - that I can use to pop a tile in?

I have stained stairs; yellow / brownish stains. I think the stars are fiberglass, they feel like plastic.

Cleaning them with Citric Acid turns them to a bright white but I've been doing this at an increasign interval. After cleaning to bright white with Citric Acid the stains usually return within two to three (2-3) weeks.

I sanatize with Tri-Chlor (Doheny's 3 in Chlorine Tabs), and shock with 12.5% Pool Tech. Aqua Mate for all other chems (Job Lot).

I use the Taylor test kit and my levels are all within range or close. Not perfect but decent.
FC: 10.5
PH: 7.3
TA: 90
CH: 650
CY: 80 (Tabs push this high or higher)

My question is what is the cause of this returning stain? Should I use some type of Iron Out or other metal out product?

I corrected the wiring that was installed prior to purchasing my home, moving the purple wires per the diagram so now my booster pump will not turn on without my main pump running However I am unsure what the white wires are doing or whether they are redundant with the purple providing power to the booster. should I leave it as-is?

Before


After


Diagram

I’ve come across some old threads regarding the no flow error codes showing up on my Jandy Aqualink 1400 and I was able to find the salinity button behind the circuit board but my stupid question is, do I need to shut off all power first before holding down the button for 5 seconds or should power be on? I know it’s basic but want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks to this forum I fired my pool are company because my pool was developing algae and they told me “This pool is prone to algae.” LOL. I took out all the pucks, ordered the Taylor 2006 c test kit and have just passed a SLAM two days ago and am letting my FC drift back down to maintenance level.

Latest test results:
FC 22
CC 0
CYA 60
Salt 3700
CH 370
TA/Ph - did not do because if I understand correctly the results would not be accurate with FC above 10.

I put a drop of Muriatic acid on the crystals and didn’t see bubbling. Same thing when I let this dry to a white flakey powder.

When I squeeze this mess it sort of disappears or shrinks. Test results below. 17000 gallon SWG pool- newly replastered 4 months ago. Tucson, AZ.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello everyone, new almost pool owners here. Plaster this week. So far so good for our PB and workmanship. My main purpose for signing on is getting tips on plaster start up techniques, chemical set up, and general maintenance programs. Its about a 15k gallon pool, no spa, no heater. North Texas and its hotter than heck here.

An issue Im running into, while my pool builder is great, automation and pool equipment set up is not his expertise. I have been reading and scouring youtube to find how the components need to be connected to one another. I went with a full Jandy ecosystem.

AquaLink Rs control box, with 4 relays
Aqua Link 3.0 wifi receiver
Jandy VS pump 2.2 HP
Jandy Salt TruClear SGW
Jandy small 120v LED lights
Jandy DE filter

The electrician and I figured out the basics, we have, 220 and 115 supplied to the RS box. I see that box needs 115 for the transformer, and Ill put 220 to the pump relay. I understand hooking up the datacables to the red connections. My confusion, is how to hook up the TruClear salt chlorinator box. Should I run it though one of the relays as well (220v), wire it directly so its always on, or use on of the aux relays on the pump. I will run the SWG datacable to the aqua link red data port as well. Thanks for any insight.

Also ready for input on what tools, and gear to get! Thanks!

The previous owner of our house had a spa which he removed and covered its place with concrete. Attached is how piping looks like, and my guess is one of the highlighted pipes was for the spa (or can they both be for my pool?). I am trying to find space to install an SWCG (Universal 40). So I though that if I could figiure out which of the highlighted pipes is for my pool, I can cut UL40 into it. As you can see on the picture, one of pipes has a valve. I am not sure what it was for, but it appears to be broken as no matter how much I twist it, it doesn't close. Are these valves usually installed on spa pipes? Can it be a solid indicator it is a spa pipe and the other one if for pool? Is there any other way to tell for sure which one if which?