I was troubleshooting my Mastertemp 300 and changing all the usual sensors and the control board. I checked the thermal limiter and found the thermostat and the spring were gone. I’m thinking the spring must have rusted and the thermostat must be in the manifold. My question is, how far can that Dang thing go? It must be causing a problem because now I’m getting a PS LED light telling me it’s the pools pressure, which make sense as the thermostat could be causing a blockage. Thanks guys for any help.

Moved from HERE

@RickRude, did you notice that you lost flow with this problem? We have the same pump and have bubbles coming out of the jets and gurgling. We keep losing flow and are wondering if we should try what was suggested to you.

Looking for recommendations on a quick repair for glass tiles on our spillway edge. A dozen or so had fallen out and managed to get the builder back to repair those and close out a few other final punch list items. A week later a single tile popped out. Can anyone recommend a water proof adhesive - marine epoxy maybe? - that I can use to pop a tile in?

I have stained stairs; yellow / brownish stains. I think the stars are fiberglass, they feel like plastic.

Cleaning them with Citric Acid turns them to a bright white but I've been doing this at an increasign interval. After cleaning to bright white with Citric Acid the stains usually return within two to three (2-3) weeks.

I sanatize with Tri-Chlor (Doheny's 3 in Chlorine Tabs), and shock with 12.5% Pool Tech. Aqua Mate for all other chems (Job Lot).

I use the Taylor test kit and my levels are all within range or close. Not perfect but decent.
FC: 10.5
PH: 7.3
TA: 90
CH: 650
CY: 80 (Tabs push this high or higher)

My question is what is the cause of this returning stain? Should I use some type of Iron Out or other metal out product?

I corrected the wiring that was installed prior to purchasing my home, moving the purple wires per the diagram so now my booster pump will not turn on without my main pump running However I am unsure what the white wires are doing or whether they are redundant with the purple providing power to the booster. should I leave it as-is?

Before


After


Diagram

I’ve come across some old threads regarding the no flow error codes showing up on my Jandy Aqualink 1400 and I was able to find the salinity button behind the circuit board but my stupid question is, do I need to shut off all power first before holding down the button for 5 seconds or should power be on? I know it’s basic but want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks to this forum I fired my pool are company because my pool was developing algae and they told me “This pool is prone to algae.” LOL. I took out all the pucks, ordered the Taylor 2006 c test kit and have just passed a SLAM two days ago and am letting my FC drift back down to maintenance level.

Latest test results:
FC 22
CC 0
CYA 60
Salt 3700
CH 370
TA/Ph - did not do because if I understand correctly the results would not be accurate with FC above 10.

I put a drop of Muriatic acid on the crystals and didn’t see bubbling. Same thing when I let this dry to a white flakey powder.

When I squeeze this mess it sort of disappears or shrinks. Test results below. 17000 gallon SWG pool- newly replastered 4 months ago. Tucson, AZ.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello everyone, new almost pool owners here. Plaster this week. So far so good for our PB and workmanship. My main purpose for signing on is getting tips on plaster start up techniques, chemical set up, and general maintenance programs. Its about a 15k gallon pool, no spa, no heater. North Texas and its hotter than heck here.

An issue Im running into, while my pool builder is great, automation and pool equipment set up is not his expertise. I have been reading and scouring youtube to find how the components need to be connected to one another. I went with a full Jandy ecosystem.

AquaLink Rs control box, with 4 relays
Aqua Link 3.0 wifi receiver
Jandy VS pump 2.2 HP
Jandy Salt TruClear SGW
Jandy small 120v LED lights
Jandy DE filter

The electrician and I figured out the basics, we have, 220 and 115 supplied to the RS box. I see that box needs 115 for the transformer, and Ill put 220 to the pump relay. I understand hooking up the datacables to the red connections. My confusion, is how to hook up the TruClear salt chlorinator box. Should I run it though one of the relays as well (220v), wire it directly so its always on, or use on of the aux relays on the pump. I will run the SWG datacable to the aqua link red data port as well. Thanks for any insight.

Also ready for input on what tools, and gear to get! Thanks!

The previous owner of our house had a spa which he removed and covered its place with concrete. Attached is how piping looks like, and my guess is one of the highlighted pipes was for the spa (or can they both be for my pool?). I am trying to find space to install an SWCG (Universal 40). So I though that if I could figiure out which of the highlighted pipes is for my pool, I can cut UL40 into it. As you can see on the picture, one of pipes has a valve. I am not sure what it was for, but it appears to be broken as no matter how much I twist it, it doesn't close. Are these valves usually installed on spa pipes? Can it be a solid indicator it is a spa pipe and the other one if for pool? Is there any other way to tell for sure which one if which?

Looks like I need to replace the control board for my MasterTemp 400. Currently, my heater has the older 5 button membrane. A couple questions:

1) Can I replace it with a 6-button board?
2) Is it a relatively easy swap?

Thanks.

Hello, I’m new to TFP. First post so forgive me if this isn’t the right place.

I have a Hayward, EC 40 DE pool filter. and a one horsepower pump. My pool is above ground and is about 3000 gallons.

Last year I didn’t winterize the pool. We had a lot going on and the pool stayed open and the pump and filter connected all winter. Come summer, the case for the Hayward was cracked so I had to replace it. After doing so and cleaning the fingers and putting new DE. Everything ran fine temporarily.

My issue is as follows:
every time I turn on the filter, it runs appropriately for about 5min and then the pressure coming out of the return dies down significantly. It happens gradually over the 5min. I’ve taken out the fingers multiple times, and hosed them down.
I have soaked them in acid overnight and then put them back in which made the duration that the filter works longer.
Now it’ll work for like 20min before dying down slowly.
I even went as far as taking apart each finger and soaking the finger cases in soap and acid for 3hrs and then putting everything back together. They looked fine, no tears or anything.
Same thing. Over the span of 20-30min, it dies again. I noticed that when I turn it off and pump the handle and then turn it back on it runs for a little longer before dying. When I look at the pressure gauge, it reads about 18-19 at the point that the filter pressure dies.

At this point do I need to replace the finger cases? Or can it be something with the pump? It’s not that complicated of a system but I can’t figure out what it is. I thought for sure after soaking and cleaning the fingers it would work properly.

Any advice is appreciated thanks!

Me again
Didn’t want to hijack someones thread.. so I apologize for one more about white flakes.

2 days into SWG and today I’ve noticed white flakes. I’ve started using pool math few weeks ago and my CSI is always between -0.15 and -0.3
Currently -0.3
I was planning to bring CH to recommended 350 but not sure? Also wondering if these flakes are ‘leftovers’ hmmm

Hello,

I am having some calcium buildup on my salt cell (45 to 60 days between cleaning), much more than I feel I should be having. Previous years I ran a Pentair IC60 and injected 50% acid/50% water via a stenner pump a few feet before the salt cell to keep ph stable with minimal effort. While this seemed to keep the salt cell clean I think it shortened the life of 2 cells to two summers each so I replumbed this last spring to inject AFTER the cell and put in a generic ($600) cheaper salt cell from discount salt pool but I have been having more problems with calcium.

My numbers are the following:
FC 0.35
ph 7.4
TA 79
Calcium 482
Cyanuric 53
Salt 3117
Pool temp 78-86 degrees

CSI is -0.2 per pool math. I should also note that I added an entire 64 oz bottle of Beautec Easycare Cale Preventative a month or two ago.

Any thoughts or ideas why I'm having such trouble.

I have read every article that I can about hybrid pools. The one thing I cannot find information about is how specifically to restore the fiberglass panels. Can they be sandblasted at the same time as the concrete bottom? Do I hand sand them?

I'm beginning to put together a list of things to try this on my own and want to have as much information as possible before moving forward.

Hello!

new-ish pool owner ( came with the house ). the in-ground vinyl pool has a leak, leak/s. it is currently stopped at a level below the drain line. I am guessing it might have come from when I pulled out the umbrella from the pool in the last thunderstorm (blew over). I was able to find one leak and marine-caulk-seal it, but there is a leak somewhere else and my dye/diving skills can't find it.

I am hesitating to keep filling up the pool, concerned it might just be going to the foundation or somewhere else.

I've requested for service, but the earliest they can come is in 5 days. Any tips on how to maintain the pool till then?

i.e. just keep adding chlorine, maintain levels? is the pump ok to not run for that long? ( will i get other issues with the water stuck in the lines? ) should i start pumping from the pool into the skimmer basket or drain line?

thank you!

Newbie here - I'm trying to figure out a schedule for my Pentair SuperFlo VSP. The builder set it to run at 2500rpm 24/7 and he told me I can just leave it there, but I want to understand my numbers and fine-tune it anyway. First step for me is to calculate the flow by measuring pressure and vacuum from the ports on my pump. I bought a couple "standard" gauges but the ports on the pump are so low to the ground that I don't have enough room to screw in the gauges. Can I just connect my gauges to a hose and then connect the hose to the pump ports? Will that still give accurate readings?

I have followed the Hayward troubleshooting tutorial and seeing that between the red and black cable it only showed 10 Volts, I have replaced the diode bridges (it has two). But the problem has not been solved. The 15000uF electrolytic capacitors are a bit bulky on top and seem to charge well. Could someone provide me with the electronic schematic? IThe model is SAS15EU.
Thank you

Hi all - I see that I’m not alone with the hot pool problem (especially here in FL with no rain!!!). My issue is my return eye balls are not threaded. They are the press in bulbous looking things that just push into the return pvc pipe. I think they’re called self aligning? Any thoughts on how I can get a fountain connected? I’ve looked around the web and keep coming up empty.
Thanks!

I have these build ups. If I address them promptly, they are soft and easily brush away. If I wait, they harden and require a stone rubbing. Some are pebble like, others are streaks. All no matter when I address them, they leave the surface smooth and white where the blemish was. They tend to return at the same spot.

My chemistry is within recommended parameters. Which chemistry should I adjust to stop theses formations?

Hello, my name is Francisco and I am from Spain. I have had a pool for 8 years and I have started to have a problem with the salt chlorinator and since I like electronics, I put my hand into it to see if it can be repaired before replacing it with new elements. I found you on Google.

I need to replace an astral pool P300 and I'm spoilt for choice and don't really know what I'm looking for. Can redo the pipework if need.

The total head is less than a meter and the pool is only 40KL so I guess I don't need a big one.

Not sure whether to go for AC or DC also - I gather AC is more reliable and DC more quiet? I'd be leaning towards AC then, unless DC is so much more efficient that it makes up for a shorter life.

Hi everyone,
Both my heat pump (TTI Fab Stratos 80) and my chlorinator (Hayward Aquatrol) show low-flow errors and stop working almost every day. I’ve tried to work around this by keeping the pump at a high speed. It primes at 3450 rpm (the maximum) and then reduces automatically to 1600. I changed it so now it never goes below 3000 but still I will look outside and it seems slow, and when I check, sure enough there is a low flow error on all the equipment. Water is crystal clear but it’s cooling off because the heat pump is so temperamental and sensitive to flow. Anyone experience something like this?
Thanks

I was about to order a CircuPool RJ 45 for our 25k gal pool and noticed that I could get an RJ60 for $10 more today. Would that work even better or should I just stay with the 45? Thanks.

I always understood the main issue was CYA build up over time and the only way to reduce CYA was to drain water and replace it.

For the last 10 years or so our pool has had a CYA of about 40 - 60 (best guess as the test is not really easy to read). We did liquid chlorine in the summer (swim season) and water was perfect and no algae blooms. In the winter we use tabs as solar is off and pool temp low. Always a little surprised each spring that the CYA wasn't higher after using tabs - but everything good.

This year we have had very high liquid chlorine usage (which is getting very expensive with the current cost of chlorine) and testing CYA it seems maybe 10 - 20 (again the I find the test very hard to read to get an accurate result).

Could we really have lost CYA like this? Pool is never drained (on a well and it would be prohibitive to try to refill) just topped up during the summer to replace evaporative loss (but the CYA should stay in pool - correct?)

Are there any more accurate CYA tests than the black dot test? A little reluctant to add CYA until I know it is really low as it will really be hard to lower it if it gets high.

Pool still looks great - but if CYA is low I guess even low levels of chlorine would be working....

Hello,

First post here. I need to respond to the contractor ASAP.

Current stairs are done. Been quoted for plastic stairs or fiberglass stairs. Plastic is cheaper. I don't know what to choose and can't find any information on internet regarding these two.

Here are the models :

ST6019B : Plastic
STP6CDP : Fiberglass

Thank you so much for help.

Hi,
Pool owner of several years, never really had an algae problem. This past week I've started seeing small algae spots pop up over night. I brush them off, run the filter. Even on areas of the liner that don't have visible spots I see some stuff (likely algae) coming off in a cloud.

My levels as of 5 minutes ago:
FC: 4.5
CYA: 45
PH: 7.6

Earlier in the week I hosed down my filter element (quad cartridge) and everything inside. This is part of my twice-a-summer maintanance. The cartridges weren't too bad.
I've vacc'd the pool once this week (going to drop the bot in this morning).
I have friends coming over later and I assume there isn't an issue with swimming.

I consider myself a relative expert when it comes to maintenance, pool knowledge, chemistry balance etc. Friends and family come to me for advice. I've sent them here to this page as well as recommended the taylor test kit. However, considering the chem levels noted above, pool is not green and is clear, considering how I am meticulous with the pool and check it every day as part of my morning routine... Kind of baffled how Im seeing algae spots. I thought it was high CYA without the proper high level of FC, but thats not the case (4.5/45 noted above). I thought it was my filters clogged of gunk, organics, algae but thats not the case (they werent bad and I hosed them down last Saturday).

I understand the recommended regime to get algae out is SLAM and process it out. But if the levels are fine to begin with, why is it happening in the first place?
Any thoughts?

For the past several weeks my Taylor Borate strips do not match the colors on the container. My color is yellow, so I was figuring I am above the 100 threshold on the back of the container. I read that maybey test strips are bad?

Any help on this subject would be great.

Owned a pool at my prior home and used the Pool Math app to manage my levels. As I recall, the recommended FC level was 1 - 3 ppm. Fast forward a couple of years, we moved and built another pool. I loaded up the app again, but this time it is calling for 3 - 9 ppm for FC.

Am I mistaken or did the recommended FC level change?

New to pools and looking to figure out what test kit I should buy. Pool will be a stonescape salt water pool.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I live in Arizona and we have a 13,000 gal. pool that has been renovated in the past 6 mos. I had no experience in pool care, we had a pool service but was not satisfied with the service. I relied on the basic test strip and Leslie's pool's test and advice and between the two methods I found the test results were not accurate. Recently I purchased the Taylor K-2005 kit, but I from what I'm reading I should have purchased an upgraded kit.