Hi all - lurker for a while and finally mustered up the courage to create an account! Looking to build a pool/spa and hardscape/landscape our backyard.

Contemplating OB but also talking to a few large PBs here - specifically design/build firms. I’ve spoken to at least seven firms and all of them require design fees, with most of them requiring four digit sum before even setting foot on my property. I suppose it’s a sellers market now still!

Thank you again for having me here.

I've always torn down and stored my Intex or now Coleman (Bestway) AGPs in the past, but I see so many people here saying they just winterize, so think I'm going to go that route starting this year. Found this blog post on here

I have a few questions
1) Does that blog cover everything?
2) Air pillows, good to get or another thing pool supplies stores sell just to make a buck?
3) Are winter pool covers different than the solid pool covers that come including with pools? I have one from my old Intex that's the same size as the Coleman, so wondering if that will work or if I need a special winter cover.
4) Anyone had good results with the "winter closing kit" options you see advertised all the time? The ease of one box with everything I need and no headache is very appealing

Thanks for the help and feedback.

My wife and I have been pool owners for the last 4 years. We absolutely love it, and it is the place to come for the kids and grandkids, We are getting a little older now, so it can become quite a chore. I look forward to learning everything I can to make it as simple as it can be. I will try to help you as well when I can. Glad to be here.

I'm looking for some guidance on any potential upgrade paths from my existing Jandy RS6 automation setup - whether there are in-place upgrades for this particular system or something entirely new. The system itself has been fairly trouble-free, though the PDA I have that is working seems to be dying a slow death. I would prefer something that interfaces with a smart phone. I will be replacing my pump in the very near future with a variable speed unit (Pentair Intelliflow), so the ability to control that would be idea - not certain my current RS4 setup can do that without some kind of upgrade or update.

My setup is a pool/spa combo, heater, pool/spa lights, vac booster and main pump. Ideally I'd love to be able to trigger landscape lighting with the system as well.

Last but not least, I'd really prefer something I can do DIY, if possible. I hadn't planned to make any changes anytime soon, but with the impending need for a new VS pump, I'd like to at least consider a new setup. I'm very knowledgeable about my current pool setup, comfortable and competent with safe electrical work, a tech nerd in general and a fairly accomplished DIY guy - so installing something like this doesn't really phase me too much outside the potential costs.

Appreciate your feedback!

I guess it had to happen eventually... it seems like Hayward T-15 is dying. Unit states "Low Salt", but when checked via 1766 testing shows 4600ppm. Shame on me for just adding bags of salt without recognizing a problem immediately. I replaced my cartridges (unrelated, it was time after 5yrs) today and cleaned SWG as well. No change. Diagnostic on positive side shows 1000-1500ppm, but negative side is 2800ppm. My FC looks good still, but I'm concerned that SWG may not run when needed. So I changed it to a T-9 in settings, increased operating % and now its 4100ppm. With the 500ppm Hayward tolerance, I think I may get a little more out of this cell operating as a T-9.... its a little over 5 years old. Installed with new pool in July 2018.

Any feedback or suggestions why I should not go in this direction, please let me know.
Thanks!

first time pool owner and new to the forum.. following my pool store testing (Leslies.) i went ahead and did a partial drain and fill yesterday to lower cya level .. went from 120 to 102 with a 12 inch drain.

Should I do another foot tonight to bring it down under 100 or just leave it as is.. ive seen in other places that cya of 150 is still ok.. its really only a concern when i gets to 200 plus.. thanks.. hope that explains what iam asking..

I successfully closed by myself.

I vacuumed the pool this morning.

Tested the water and shocked the pool.

I did not buy into the algaecide this year. Just not using it.

Started to drain water off via backwash/rinse/ waste and using 2 sump pumps.

Disconnected the pipe from filter and blew the line as much as I could. I then reversed it and suctiononed the line. Poured antifreeze down skimmer hole and added the gizmo. Went back to pump and removed manifold and SWG. Loosened fittings at heater and blew heater out.

Blew all return lines and capped. So here's my helper... I cut a pool noodle to shove one end in the vac hose and the other in the return line so I could cap while it was still blowing. Worked so well!!!



The only line I cannot blow is the slide line, I suction it and add a gallon of antifreeze to every line.

I finally covered it all by myself.


I pulled the plugs on the pump and put all my eyeball fittings in the pump basket. I started at 10am was finished by 3pm. I'll clean the filter this weekend.

Hi folks. First time turning on the pool heater for our new pool (completed 8/2023).

Just added our salt yesterday and wanted to try out the pool heater. I noticed 1 return jet has tiny micro bubbles coming out while heater is running.

I turned off heater and no more tiny micro bubbles. What would this indicate? We had a small leak at the pad where the PVC pipe from filter connects to the heater, but this was fixed last month and I can't see any more leakage.

Is this possibly a chemical reaction between water Temps? Our water was 69° and I had pool heater set to get it up to 82°.

Thanks!

Having children is great. And then they start to get older and think they are part-owners of our cars, our house, our pool. Needless to say our teenagers and friends found a way to break off the cap of our air intake. We have a pool with connected spa and I am having a heck of a time finding a replacement. Any tips for where to look or even if I am call this part by its wrong name?

Any help would be appreciated.

Rick

I had an existing Merlin IG pool cover with the Merlin brass anchors mounted in the concrete pool deck which I’ve used for years. Last year I had the concrete pool deck demolished and replaced with travertine that looks great. Since pool season is now over I would like to cover my pool, but the original brass anchors went with the old pool deck. I’ve looked online and the Merlin brass anchors seem to be priced at $14-$18 each. There seems to be copy versions at $45 for a pack of 20 on Amazon.
Anybody have any experience with these copied versions and know if the quality is as good?

Hi, I've been reading the forum posts and didn't find the exact answer to the issue I'm seeing and was hoping for some help before I call Pentair tomorrow.

I have a 3HP variable speed pump that has been working fine for the last 3 years (install date 5/1/2020) but all of a sudden it stopped working yesterday; no display at the pump, no signal via Screenlogic/automation. I checked the breakers, and confirmed there is 240v at the pump and the relay is working with I turn it on at the panel. I live in Austin, TX, so no lightning recently and the pump wasn't making any funny noises prior to it going out.

Based on my research, it sounds as if the drive unit went bad, but the pump and LCD are still ok?

If the above is correct, a few questions:

• Given I'm 5 months out of warranty, would Pentair definitely not warranty?
• If they don't warranty, is it possible to repair the drive unit?
• If unable to repair, does getting a used one (1/2 the cost of new) present any major issues?

Thanks in advance!

Rich

Hey,
I'm just starting with pool automation but I want to make a "simple" PH monitor. (I'll be doing ORP in the future).
But I'm confused as to where I should place the probe and if it is fine for it to be placed in flowing water.
Placement meaning before the pump/after the pump & filter and also where should I place the PH injector for automatic ph control I'm guessing that behind the PH probe but I still may be wrong.

We're just about to wrap up our first full summer with our pool. It was completed in the middle of summer last year, so this is our first full summer with me handling all of the maintenance besides open/close. Just now starting to experience some water clarity headaches so I'm hoping to lean on the expertise here. Pool is 18' x 36' with a max depth of 6'6". We have cartridge filters with a heater and ozone system. Right now my biggest issue is white specks floating throughout the pool, even after I've cleaned the filters. I took them out three straight days and hosed them off but they go right back to reading dirty on the gauge again. Seems too early to need to replace them, but what do I know?!

Attempting to install my pool fence and I am debating my configurations. Wanted some advice on this area, I know the skimmer and gutter is here, so not sure if i can just drill holes between the pool edge and skimmer.

I am dealing with a very stealthy leak in my liner which I have searched for hours with the snorkel and used up all my red food coloring bottle. As I am now very frustrated, I am now devising a contraption to go around the edge of the pool with a large amount of green in hopes I might be able to find it. Before I go crazy and accidentally dye my pool for an early St Patrick's Day, will the chlorine kill off the color? The very little I am using with the dropper gets so diluted that it doesn't matter if the FC takes care of it.

I will post a picture of my green pool if it takes that much to that to find the leak.

Pool owner the last several years with 2 kiddos that love to swim. 10,000 gallon fiberglass pool that I decided to take the leap and close this season after prices went from $300 to $550. Will definitely have some technical questions on the interworkings of the filtration system. Looking forward to learning.

Hi there!!
First time pool owner in mississippi. My dogs and I are in the pool every minute we can get. The husband comes out to say hi every once in awhile.
Love owning a pool and wouldn't change a thing.....well, I would change a few things but, it's too late for that.

I’m a new member and just subscribed to the upgraded Pool Math calculator. The calculator is not saving my readings. What should I do?

Hi All,
I am looking to buy or make a lid/locking ring that has an adapter/connector for a cyclone blower. Our pool builder had one when they closed our pool and they basically put this lid that has pvc connector on the clear glass which he can connect directly to his cyclone blower. I have been looking on amazon and all over the web but no one seems to sell this. So i am assuming that this is home made. If anyone has any ideas where i can buy one or how to make one that would help a lot. I already paid them to close my pools and nothing they did was anything special that i could not have done myself. This is mostly for next year. See attached pic

Thank you,
LD

Background: Recently, I installed a Pentair Serial COM Port Expansion Board (Port Multiplexer), in my IntelliCenter Load Center. I thought I might share some information regarding this expansion board and its installation.
The Pentair Serial COM port expansion board can be used with any Pentair IntelliCenter, IntelliTouch and EasyTouch Automation Control System. A total of two (2) Serial COM Port Expansion Boards can be installed.
There are two reasons that a Pentair Automation user may wish to install this board.

The part number for the Serial COM Port Expansion Kit is: 520818. The cost is approximately $60.00. I paid $57.90 on Amazon (no shipping or taxes).
The following items are included in the kit:
NOTE: One COM port terminal block is used to connect to the control system main board.

The three COM Ports share a common bus. Thus, the following type equipment/accessories can connect to any of these ports. This list is just an example and not all inclusive.

The two pin screw terminal blocks can be used for RS-485 or RS-232 communications for equipment such as:
Pentair IntelliFlo Pumps
Pentair UltraTemp and Hybrid Heat Pumps

INSTALLATION -
Note: The following is a detailed explanation of the installation (and any tips/tricks that I can think of) of the Serial COM Port Expansion Board in the Pentair IntelliCenter Load Center. Installing the expansion board in any other automation system may or may not be similar.

WARNING: ALWAYS remove power from the Load Center/Power Center and from any items that you are connecting before proceeding. De-energizing ALL applicable circuit breakers is the approved method of removing power from these items. Failure to do so may result in electrical shock and/or damage to equipment.

CAUTION: ALWAYS use approved anti-static precautions when handling circuit boards. Failure to do so may result in damage to equipment.

1. Remove the four adhesive backed supports using a 1/4" socket. (these are for use in older type load centers, that do not have the two applicable mounting screws for the expansion board).
2. Unlatch the front door spring latch to open the load center door.
3. Loosen the two access screws securing the IntelliCenter Control Panel using a 1/4" socket and fold it down.
4. Using a 1/4" socket, remove the two screws from the back of the load center upper low voltage compartment as illustrated below.
5. Install the two Expansion Board brackets and secure with the same two screws as illustrated below.
6. Mount the Expansion Board onto the bracket and secure with the four screws that are provided in the kit using a 1/4" socket as illustrated below. Then tighten the two screws that mount the brackets.

7. The Serial COM Port Expansion Board is shipped with the cable connectors plugged in to J2 and J3 of the expansion board. Remove the terminal connector J2 on the Expansion Board and connect it to a COM port on the IntelliCenter Control System Personality Board as depicted in the above illustrations.

8. If you have existing equipment and/or accessories (IntelliChlor, IntelliChem, IntelliFlo Pump, UltraTemp and Hybrid Heat Pumps, Remote Control Panels etc., connected to the IntelliCenter Automation System Mother Card remove the connector with attached wires and connect the connector to an available terminal on the Expansion board COM port (as shown above).

9. After the Expansion Board has been mounted and all equipment/accessories connected, close the control panel into its original position and secure it with the two access screws. Apply power to the system by energizing the applicable circuit breakers and close the load center front door. Fasten the spring latch.

Hope this helps with anyone installing the Pentair Serial COM Port Expansion Board in an IntelliCenter Load Center.
Please feel free to ping me if you have any questions...
r.

When is it NOT OK to replaster a pool?

Hi all! Found this thread via a friend's recommendation. My wife and I (we have one small child) are in the middle of building a pool/outdoor kitchen in TX and I really hope having this forum is beneficial to learning from others and hoping to gain as much insight into everything that being a pool owner entails. I apologize in advance because I may ask silly questions but I tend to be thorough so please do not take my ignorance as anything other than wanting to make sure I get it right as much as possible.

General Pool Dimensions:

35' x 20'
Surface area - 765 sq ft
Pool Inside Perimeter - 126.5
Interior Area - 1400
Depth 4ft - 8ft
Total Volume - 26.5k gals
Spa - 7'x7'

I have a 9 or 10 year-old Pentair 011018 and a solar touch controller. Was wondering if it is possible or even wise to update the firmware? The menu system on the pump makes me insane, it is buggy and impossible to navigate. Surely they must have improved this over the years?

I'm looking for a good heat pump for an 18,500 Gallon inground pool. Would like something fairly quiet and easily connected to Wifi to set schedules, adjust temps, etc.

Any recommendations?

I'm also wondering about keeping my Costco 12x22 above ground pool up for winter. Looking at some of the answers here, I'm leaning towards leaving it up. Lots of pine needles here. I bought a couple of pool pillows but now I'm thinking I should just cover it and allow the tarp tlay on the water while tying it to the frame without the pillows. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I'm hoping someone on here has tried this and can let me know how it went.

My pool deck is about half brick (on compacted gravel and sand, polymetric sand joints), half loose stone on top of compacted gravel... less than ideal for the brass anchors to support the mesh safety cover I want to install.

There are anchor tubes available online that are supposed to be used for installation in grass, pavers, etc. They range from about 8" to 18" long. I've also seen directions to install 4" diameter concrete columns whenever an anchor needs to be in grass.

What I haven't seen is a forum post, video, or anything else where someone has used a method for installing the anchors using these or any other methods, for better or worse.

Anybody here?

Can anyone recommend a programmer that works specifically with the IntelliTouch controllers? This thread talks about both Intellitouch and EasyTouch, but it appears that they don't have the same MCU. EasyTouch uses the MC9S family of chips, but when I checked my IntelliTouch Indoor control panel, I saw that it actually has an older 68HC12 chip (specifically: MC912DG128ACPVE).

I went ahead an ordered one of the cheap USBDM programmers from AliExpress, but when I started looking into how to install the software and drivers, I found that this programmer does not seem to have any support for the 68HC12 chips (it only supports the "S" series, like MC9S12A128).

I see there is another product (P&E Micro USB BDM Multilink Interface for RS08 HCS08) out there. It says it supports both the HC12 and HCS12, but it is a lot more expensive, and it appears the necessary software might be a separate purchase (though I am not certain exactly what software is required).

Can anyone give any guidance?

New plaster, Pebblesheen, filled end of July. Have been adding muriatic acid 2x/week to get PH down (PB says that will continue as plaster cures), which gets the PH down to 7.6 or so, but then it always climbs through the week. TA is also persistently high, and CH is consistently low. Do you recommend I get the CH up, and drive the TA down by lowering the PH to 7.0-7.2 and aerating? If yes, in what order should I do that? See my current readings below (Using the TFP Pool Math App, which is awesome btw):
FC: 7.5
PH: 8.0
TA: 120
CH: 225
CYA: 90
Salt: 3000
Temp: 86
CSI: 0.26

Thanks for any help/advice you all can provide.

Doug

Any thoughts on the new Hayward AquaRite S3 SWG systems? My local pool place says the older model was being phased out. From what I can tell, the metal housing is now plastic (which may be better for heat related issues) and the Cell is clear instead of white plastic. I'm needing to upgrade my system and not sure if I should make the jump or stick with the old school time-tested model.

I have attached a photo showing a bubble coming from one of my microbrite lights and an arrow pointing to the approximate location of its origin. (I tried to upload a video showing them streaming, but I had no luck adding a video. ) The light still functions normally. I contacted Pentair to see if this is typical. I’ve never noticed the bubbles before, but this one and only time I’ve witnessed this, it was shortly after turning on the lights and lasted for 10-15 minutes max. I was thinking maybe it was from this recently illuminated “heat source” in the water, then whatever was happening to release bubbles finally balanced itself out (if that makes sense). Pentair is sending someone out because they feel it’s likely a problem with the light. The thing is - I believe the entire wire has to be pulled to replace this light - not just replace the head unit. YIKES! If these people don’t know what they are doing or screw up and wreck the conduit, I could end up with a leaking pool right before winterizing. Not a happy thought.
Does anyone know any details about the replacement process, or this bubbling event? I’d love to hear that this is normal, or that I’m wrong about a full wire pull being required.
Thanks!