Can you turn on and off (operate) an Intellivalve 521485 for a water feature with the Easytouch 520547 handheld remote ??
Is it at all possible ?

See this thread. Was able to fix as per the last post in this thread. So thankful for this forum and YT! Probably saved me $500-$1000.

We have a Rheem 337A Low NOX Model pool heater. When it tries to start it shows a CFH (Call for heat) then shows a "SPR" (Spare Fault code indicator). I can't find what that means. I just wanted to check here before I order a replacement board. I had already fixed some cold solder joints in the past, so I was thinking of pulling the board and checking those again.

I picked up the ph meter that was recommended here because I'm a numbers guy. I dont do so well with the different shades on the ph tester.

My confusion is that it seems the ph meter is effected by light. the instructions say to swirl the meter in the water until it stabilizes. But it never does. every time you move it, it changes. I do the test in a tall clear shot glass. if I move my hands around the meter, the numbers change. If I let the meter just sit in the water, it will stabilize. but its still effected by shading it, or effecting the light around it in any way.

I picked up some standard solution to calibrate the meter, but with the behavior, its pretty confusing.

SO... What is the method to use to get a dependable reading from the meter.

CarolD said:

Interesting observation about Home Depot and LC storage. Every time I've gone to purchase, they have it stored inside...except once. It was back in April or so, and when I went to look for it, they had moved it outside. I complained to the store manager and they tried to tell me it was ok, because the area was shaded (still, outside in Houston with temps headed into the 90's by June). I left without purchasing. The next time I went to purchase, they had moved it back inside. Apparently I wasn't the only one to complain?

Click to expand...

I am on my second purchase of a 3 pack and I am not impressed so far. The HD I frequent is Pin Oak at 610 West and it is stored outdoors also, but in the shade. The first batch was a year old I learned later after I checked the Julian date. I was baffled why the FC never would hit my target from the calculator, well that was why. I just bought another batch two weeks ago that was only two months old, but my FC is not coming close to my target. I am actually having better luck with HDX Germicide which is 8% but is stored inside and the date is fresh. Last purchase of this stuff for me. I also pointed out to the staff that they need to store inside and they could have cared less.

I currently have an in-ground (60,000 litre) concrete pool recently renovated (last 12 months). I have been doing backwashes and rinses all this time and went to vacuum the pool to "waste" and have only just identified that I do not have any suction when doing any of those (backwash, rinse or waste).

When I run the Filter there is suction through the skimmer box and all seems to be functioning well. I have checked the spider valve in the head of the Filter and all seems to be in order i.e. no twists, wear/tear. In addition, the spring related to the lever that changes the filter position appears to be in good working order.

Any thoughts on how water is still being drawn from the pool and expelled without suction? Also how I can achieve suction when vacuuming the pool?

Kind regards

Chook

I made the jump this year from an easy set pool to this Summer Waves 14 ft. in plans to upgrade when needed again (2/3 yrs) and am hoping to prepare (level) my pool area ONCE. I realize I'll have to touch it up a bit. I will probably just go to 16 foot next time nothing too large.

However, I just started reading the manual last night and it states that I cannot leave this thing up!! That I have to take it down for the winter since we get below freezing here in Southern Ohio. I was so devastated! This purchase was one that I researched hours to make and obviously didn't research enough.

My question: Aren't there loads if people on here that keep there metal framed pools up?? Isn't that a thing? The ground will probably all have to be redone next year if I have to take it out this winter. Help! I'm only trying for 2/3 summers isn't it possible?

My next question is what's best to have down around the pool for covering the ground to best make the jump from 14 ft to say 16 foot later?

Thanks for any help. I'm freaking out because you can't find pools anywhere? And The Pool Factory are all basically regular price now.

Howdy everyone!

I'm working with a builder and trying to finalize the contract, about 80% done.
There is a line in contact that is giving me serious pause.

Contractor reserves the right to SUBSTITUTE parts or items, as deemed necessary, by Contractor.

Emphasis theirs.

When asking about this, the sales/designer guy says they put it in there for covid as they had problems with supply chains during that time. This is understandable for that time and now that that period is over, I'm asking them to take it out but he says the computer will not allow him to...

Of course, I ask, how often substitutions happen and he says "hardly ever". This statement carries as much meaning as a politician saying he won't vote for tax increases.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could add a note or rider to the contract that negates this? Or even any methods to get corporate to remove this line?

Example: They put the word 'ball valve' in the contract in a few places and it took me three days to get them to state they will put Jandy valves where 'ball valve' is called for. In my mind, the line in the contract allows them to ignore my preference (and what I'm paying for) and just put in home depot ball valves.

Sales guy says the sub can't substitute as the sub has to get all valves from the builder but this just does not seem right to me.

Am I over thinking this?

Real Use Example:
Will have a grotto with ledge water fall in the design and it only needs a ball valve to adjust for water flow once then it's a never use valve. But one day, I may need to use it or decide to change the flow and of course if it's a non-stated 'ball valve', it won't work. My way of thinking is, why not just pay for a Jandy ball valve or a Jandy two port valve? This way, I don't have to do pool repair three years after install. (Or lessen the chance thereof.)

Thanks in advance for your input.

1 month ago I did a purge, drain, & refill and started with the TFP protocol. So far so good!

My previous online research (& spa store advice) had advised me to keep TA btwn 80-120. So since switching to the TFP protocol, the biggest change (besides testing CYA and then switching from dichlor to bleach) has been allowing my TA to rest around the 60-70 that it seems absolutely content to stay at on its own (after having done the initial adjustment during start-up). I'm THRILLED the TA is staying steady - wow! AND with that, the pH has stayed pretty steady (7.6-8.0) without even trying. INCREDIBLE!!!! THIS in itself was worth the switch to TFP protocol!!!

I'm babysitting the chlorine the best that I can (at least every other day, but striving for every day), but it keeps going down to 0. So what is the technique for keeping it at the desired range 3-6, without it constantly bottoming out at 0? Last night it tested at 0 FC & 1 CC, so I added 1/2 cup bleach (10%) and got it up to 10.5 FC & 1 CC. This morning I retested (14 hours later) and it had fallen to 3.5 FC & 1 CC. So yay, it was within the "desired" range this morning, but I know it's just continuing to nose-dive. So this morning I added 1/3 cup bleach to bump it up so it wouldn't hit 0. Is there a better way to do this?

Other miscellaneous chlorine questions:
When I'm adding bleach, am I aiming for a certain level of FC? Over the last month I've learned if I'm aiming to hit 3-6 FC, it's just going to start lowering immediately - so aim higher, and then it'll be in that window longer (but I still hit 0, probably because I'm not at it every single day). Do I just add 1/2 cup of bleach (bumps it up by 10.5 FC) every night before bed, so it'll be at a desireable range throughout the day? If so, what do I do when I go away for a few days - throw a few cups of bleach in there??

The TFP protocol says to shock it to 12 1x/week. Does that mean add enough chlorine that would make it be at 12 FC?

At what point is it unsafe to soak in a tub? Can we soak if it's at 10? 12?

Thanks for your help!

P.S. Last night's test results:
7.6 pH
70 TA
0 FC & 1 CC
160 hardness
40 CYA

Greetings of respect to every member and moderator in this wonderful forum .

I hope to find what I need through your advice

I'm having a problem with the flow between the pool and the overflow tank, when the pump is shout-off mode

In the simplified hydraulic system attached to the pictures, what is the method through which the flow of pool water can be prevented from causing an overflow of the balance tank water?

Note that
-valves cannot control the value of hydrostatic pressure
-When a natural non-return valve similar to a Hartford loop is implemented that rises above the pool water level, the problem of the appearance of a back siphone remains.
-Sometimes we need a full flow from the pool for the purpose of water circulation and for another purpose mode related to a locally invented heating system, and this is done by closing the water flow valves of the balance tank.
-There is a problem with the type of spring non-return valve. It is not possible to achieve full crack pressure that allows the valve to be opened completely, which necessitates opening the pool floor water drainage valves by more than 60%.
-When the pool water flow valves are not opened more than 60%, there is a significant decrease in the available NPSH value.
-I hope I have conveyed the idea to you completely. What I want is a simple, traditional method that allows you to prevent the pool water from causing an overflow of the balance tank water without manual intervention or operation.

Also how can I use and understand the included spring check valve spreadsheet

I live in a country where there are not many types of valves with advanced technology, and I want a simple solution that meets the desired purpose.

Thank you. I have always learned a lot from this forum and I hope this problem will be solved

I have been getting my liquid chlorine at Wally World for just under $6/gal before tax, but the season is over, and it’s all gone meaning I have to pay slightly more for bleach that is 7.5% vs 10%.

I am considering switching to Zappit 73%, which allegedly doesn’t have CYA. Which at $240 for 50 gallons looks like it would be MUCH cheaper for me (in season I use about 2 gallons every 3 days, vs one bucket of this lasts the whole season or more from reviews).

Has anyone tried this with any success?

Just curious in reading several posts about how several folks wanted to partially drain their pools to reduce CYA or CH and used Pool math in calculating the number of gallons or %. Where or how is this done in Pool Math? I can't seem to find the equation. Tks

A bag of salt left lying by the steps of plaster pool had a hole in it and some salt leaked onto steps. Greenish yellow covered part of the steps and marks go down the steps.

The top of step looks better after brushing but still yellow markings going down the steps
Thanks
Any suggestions

Cant seem to get my pentair pump back to program after using manual. Turning it off then pushing start twice doesnt tell me anything, just turns on the pool.

I read that in order to kill algae you have to put in enough chlorine to bring the FC up to 30 - 50 ppm. I put in 9 gallons of Home Depot's 10% chlorine and that only brought it up to 15 ppm. So I went to Pinch a Penny and got 5 gallons of of their 12% chlorine and that pushed it over the edge. The next day the pool had turned from green to blue but it was so opaque I couldn't see the first step of the stairs. I ran the pool 24/7 for 4 days and it was still very cloudy so I turned off the pump let it chill until the ppm got down to 4 ppm so I could put in some clarifier. This took about a week to get there and I put in 3 oz for my 15000 pool. It said to run the pool 24 hours but if it wasn't clear after that to wait another 12 hours before adding another round. At this point the pool was still very cloudy so I cleaned the filter (single cartridge) and added more clarifier then ran the pool another 36 hours. The pool is still very cloudy and am wondering how long I need to do this or if there is a different product that is better than the Clorox clarifier. I have a polaris cleaner that keeps the particles moving around and I have been trying to brush the pool but I can't see the bottom to see if there are any leaves, etc. I'm curious to know a better, quicker, and more effective way to get clear water.

Probably a dumb question but how does one attach a 2 inch backwash hose to a 2 inch PVC pipe. Couldn't find anything in Home Depot. Can anyone suggest anything? Thanks

Randomly today my intellicenter dropped from my WiFi connection and will no longer connect. It isn’t able to find any networks and acts like the WiFi device isn’t working.

I’ve done a system reset
Turned the power off and on
Downgraded the firmware
Rebooted the WiFi router and wired connections

Still nothing , Any ideas?

Installed a new Pureline t-15 cell on a Aquarite 900 system about 2 months ago. Everything was great until about 2 weeks ago. I had been running the cell at ~30% and maintaining a steady 3.5-4.0 Cl level (its oversized for the pool).

Suddenly the Cl cratered. No error lights. Good salt and CYA, pH levels. Thought it might have been caused by recent storms. So I chemically shocked and also turned the cell up to 75%. Stabilized Cl for a few days and then the same thing occurs. I've pulled the cell and its definitely generating Cl (lots of bubbles). Aquarite diag looks good too (3300 salt, 85F, 26.2v, 7.37a). salt levels verified with test kit (3000).

The only thing I can think is that it is shutting down at some point during day. But I have yet to catch it -- or at least the volts/amps look like its generating. Was thinking of trying an amp meter around the cell cable, but I'd need to find one that logs unattended over several hours, and not sure whether this would actually work. Also noticed the Pureline cell has a plastic panel where the cord attaches that seems to be a sloppy fit. Thought about popping that open to see if there is a loose connection underneath, but not sure that I can without marring the plastic and potentially voiding a warranty that I may need to use.

At a loss on how to troubleshoot further. Any ideas?

When does mastic really need to be replaced? I had a pool guy out to look at another issue and asked about these gaps I have noticed in the mastic between the coping and pool deck. He said it should get replaced or water can get in there and cause damage. Our pool was just completed in May 2021 so it's not that old-we are in TX though where it's been crazy hot and dry. The quote to replace it is $1200 which seems like a lot for our small pool. Do we really need to replace this now or can we wait a while? And does that price sound right? (Attached is a picture of the gaps we are getting in places and of our pool for size reference)

I would like to know if I shut off my caretaker system can I use a robot sucking pool cleaner? I was told by a salesman at Pinch a Penny That robot cleaning system will suck up the care taker heads and destroy and leave the whole empty. Has anyone out there been able to turn off the Caretaker system and use a robotic pool cleaner , one that sucks up the debris ,Successfully?

the PB said I needed to do a separate pump for adequate pressure. Well he hooked it up today and it’s ALOT of flow. Too much really. To run the waterfall he said we have to have the main drain off. So it looks to me based on this plumbing that the only thing that will be running is the waterfall if the main drain is off. Is that right? And if that’s right, why couldn’t we just have used the main pump for the waterfall also? Could a 1.5 HP pump not run a waterfall and two skimmer jets?? Non variable speed at that. I didn’t know VSP were a thing til last week. Kinda mad he installed these and didn’t tell me about the options. Here’s a picture of the current set up he told us to do to run the waterfall.

Here’s a video of the waterfall. That isn’t suppose to spout that hard.

Hello.
This is our first fall/winter season with our inground gunite pool.

The back of our property is lined with pine trees and in October start dropping their needles through mid-November. I was hoping not to close our pool. We live in TN.
I was thinking I would cover our pool with a winter cover & the water tubes during those few weeks. Can I cover it that way and just keep the pool running as usual? I know I will need to keep an eye on water level and chemicals.
I am hoping not to close it just for those 6 weeks.

Can I put that cover on and keep it running as normal?

Thanks.

Been cloudy and sub 75 all week. Have swg at 10% and FC keeps climbing 1-2ppm every few days. Is it normal
Not to have any burn off as fall begins?

First time at trying to close my pool myself. I just purchased a Cyclone. I plan to airlock the main drain and plug the return lines after blowing them out. My question is what to plug them with. I see two types of plugs among my pool paraphernalia (see photo). One is rubber with a wing nut, the other threaded plastic with an O-ring. Are these plugs basically equivalent and interchangeable (assuming the port I'm closing has the same threading as the plastic plug)?

I gather one silicone lubes the plastic plug if it is used. Is that correct? Is any prep needed for the rubber plug?

I haven't figured out what I am doing with the skimmers yet. I will either get gizzmos for the two skimmers or plug them and put capped empty plastic bottles in them. I have a mesh cover and although I plan to lower below the skimmers, the skimmers are likely to get water in them prior to next year's opening, so I should protect them from freezing water. If I do plug them, what would the forum suggest I use?

Feedback much appreciated.

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino controllers, but that kind of technology is way above my (retired) pay grade. If your preference is high tech automation or you have programming skills no reason to read on.

I've been kicking around the idea of using a WIFI irrigation controller to control valve actuators and VS pump speeds. Valve actuators require 24 VAC power (same as most irrigation controllers) and draw .75 amps. I purchased four Intermatic valve actuators at a cost of just under $400 and hijacked the Rachio irrigation timer out of the garage. I used Alexa to set up "routines" activated by voice. Routines allow the user to set turn on/off a series of connected devices in succession, with or without pauses. The system worked good, but since an irrigation controller will power only one zone (valve) at a time, transitions between pool, spa, waterfall, and cleaner modes were taking several minutes.

I ended up purchasing two 4-channel WiFi switches at a cost of about $22 each. Through the Ewelink Smart Home app, each channel is recognized by Alexa as an individual device. The module is powered by hardwired 7-32 volts AC/DC or USB 5 volts. Since my system already used a 24 VAC transformer to power the Intellicomm II Interface Adapter, I used this to power both the modules and the valve actuators. When purchasing a power source, choose one that puts out 24 VAC power and can handle the amperage draw of all valves combined.

I've included a photo of the relay board below. Each valve actuator can be run in both directions off one relay. Each relay has three connections: Common (24 VAC power), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The actuators have three connections. The black lead goes to the other side of the AC power. The other two actuator leads (red and white) power the valve in separate directions. One lead goes to NC and the other to NO. When power is shut off, the motor turns one way and when powered up, it turns the other way. A limit switch in the actuator cuts power to the motor when the valve reaches it's resting position.

The Intellicomm II Interface Adapter installed in my system allowed external control of four pump speeds via the Intelliflo VS data cable. I had two inputs wired to mechanical timers and two to rocker switches in the load center. I wired into two of the four inputs and connected each to an individual relay on the second 4-channel Wifi switch. Each is recognized by Alexa as a device (Pump Low Speed and Pump Med Speed). I left alone two of the mechanical timer and switch inputs on the Intellicomm, but may connect them to the open relays in the future.

I named my valves "Pool Return" "Pool Suction" "Cleaner" and "Waterfall". When "Pool Return" is set to ON, water goes to the pool. When OFF, water goes to the spa. When "Pool Suction" is set to ON, water comes from the pool. When OFF, water comes from the spa. Same idea holds true for the two remaining valves.

I programmed four individual routines in the Alexa app, Pool Mode, Spa Mode, Waterfall Mode, and Cleaner mode. I included a screenshot of the Pool Mode program below. The first three modes above are intended for use when the pool is in use. Modes can be changed through Alexa by voice or by buttons in the routines section of the app. I found the system operates flawlessly, so far. I'm gonna work on daily schedules, but for now, the pump will remain on the reliable mechanical timer or an internal pump program.

I used a Rachio outdoor enclosure ($30) to house the switches and mounted it above my load center. The relays have four manual switches which correspond with the relay assignments...something that may come in handy for manual control of individual valves or pump speeds. The WiFi switch I purchased also comes with a remote (a bit of a novelty). Each button can be programmed to control on/off functions of several relays. It won't get much use.

I know this won't be everyone's cup of tea, but it works out great for my needs. Total cost (excluding the actuators) was about under $100. Add to that a few bucks for a 24VAC transformer and you have full automation of the valves. Pump control is dependent upon your own set up.

app is crashing when trying to sync

Hey all- my first post, so please be gentle.

First time pool owner, got a Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus a couple months ago. Think it’s been doing a pretty good job (I have no experience with others)- I know it cleans debris off the bottom very well.
That said, when there’s an algae bloom (like now) it doesn’t appear to really scrub the floor/walls so much as I hoped. I can see it leaves wheel tracks, but the machine-length scrubbers don’t seem to really be making good contact. (See image). Are they not reaching the floor?

FWIW: vinyl lined, 46’ L pool.

I had code 000F showing all day yesterday, and spent quite a while trying to figure it out.

000F is a low voltage indicator for this pump. I seen a couple of other posts asking about this code but in my opinion did not see anything that was a real resolution.

First problem, I disassembled the plug itself, and found that ants made a nest inside the plug. I shook that out and cleaned it out and reassembled the plug.

Second problem, after turning off the breaker of course, I took apart the outlet box. Once I took the front cover off, a ton of brown water can pouring out of the box itself. I'm fairly certain that was the issue lol.

I left it open and allowed the outlet box to dry out.

After about an hour, I plugged my pump back in and it worked. This might not be the problem for all but hopefully this tip helps.

I have a Raypak 206a that I installed in Aug 2022. About a week before closing the pool, it started leaking. Is supposed to be a 2 year warranty but I couldn't get Raypak to respond to me, nor could I get anyone to come out since I installed it myself. So... I opened it up and could see water coming up from where one of the heat exchanger tubes goes into the end plate. I have a video but apparently can't post those here. I took the header off and I can see what looks like a slit of some sort that I assume is causing the leak. See the picture. I assume it was a manufacturing flaw that worked through the adhesive.
I am thinking a little bit of Liquid Steel Epoxy would solve the issue but wanted to run it by the forum. I really don't want to spend $800 for a new heat exchanger. Thanks!

So my pool is going in in about 3 weeks...I live in Ct so even tho I have a heater it will be too cold so I'm assuming they will install and then close the pool??
I'm getting a swg but I'm assuming I don't add any salt this year and just wait until spring? Hiw do you all handle fall installs with swg pools?